VIOLAS FROM CUTTINGS.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 20418, 26 May 1928, Page 3

VIOLAS FROM CUTTINGS.

If you want to keep your violas true to colour and type, cuttings are the beat means of doing so. A great deal towards success is a correctly prepared cutting, and this is a failing with many people, but a little practice works wonders. There are two chief advantages derived by propagating from cuttings in preference to division of roots. Plants resulting from cuttings are, as a rule, more vigorous; also, they can be procured in large numbers. Growers will notice that after removing first cuttings from the old stool, further growth will quickly follow, so that a steady supply may be relied on. THE RIGHT TYPE OF CUTTING. The most likely, arc from the basal shoots, as these are not hollow, being of recent ; growth, and, if properly trimmed and inserted, seldom fail to root; this type of cutting may also be obtained when the old plant is in flower, and may sometimes be pulled off with small roots adhering to them, this being an excellent start for an amateur grower. Shoots must bo cut off well v down into the crown of the plant; they are then of a firm and woody nature. Another type of cutting is that obtained from lateral growths; very often one is reduced to ‘ these as our favourite coloured plant fails to make the required basal shoots. It is necessary when wanting lateral cuttings to be very careful to overlook your plant first -nd any shoots that are 2in or Sin .long should be broken off at the axil of the stem. Take off the lower leaves and bracts; they are then ready for the prepared bed in a cool frame. One point that should be guarded against is, trying to get cuttings from long, coarse roots that have been bearing flowers practically all the summer. ' If, by a stroke of good luck, these do root, they will never make satisfactory plants, being, as all stems arc, quite hollow. According to the time you wish to bod out, so you must treat your old plants. Often it is a good plan to bed a few old stools in a spare corner; you can then avoid spoiling your showy flower beds in the front of the house. Cuttings should be from 2sin to Sin long. Having obained all you require, the next move is to a cool and shallow frame. PREPARING THE SOIL. Loam, leaf-mould and silver sand must be passed through a sieve, this being well mixed and dug in several inches deep. The bed is then levelled, trodden very firm and watered. When moisture has well soaked in, proceed to insert cuttings in rows about 2in apart, with a similar distance between each plant. A small, short dibber must be used, and holding the cutting at its apex with the left hand, having made the hole about lin deep, insert the cutting, and with the right hand drive the dibber into the soil close to the hole, thus you force

the soil against the cutting > and at the same time fill in the cavity. _ By this method, no pressing of the soil with the fingers is required. A thick layer of sand should always be spread over the surface of the bed previous to planting. The frame lights should be kept tightly closed and shaded well for the first few days; cuttings will soon root under these conditions, and splendid plants will result, these same standing the winter weather well. THE VIOLA’S ENEMIES.

Like most plants, the viola, has its enemies and diseases, the chief being red spider, which lives in a fine web spread over the leaves of both pansy and viola. They suck the skin of the leaves and make pale patches on them. The best remedy is: 2oz of soft soap in a gallon of water, as this pest hates moisture. For slugs or snails, powdered lime and soot is the cure, also bran laid in heaps on the bed is effectivfe. Mildew is a rather frequent bother, which appears in grey patches on the leaves and causes them to shrivel up. The worst affected leaves should be hand picked and burnt; then spray with loz sulphide of potassium dissolved in 4 quart of boiling water, and made up to 21gal with cold water. —The Garden.