SCENERY OF N.W. OTAGO

Otago Daily Times, Issue 19498, 5 June 1925, Page 13

SCENERY OF N.W. OTAGO

TOURIST ROUTES OF THE GREAT SOUTHERN LAKES. THE GRAVE-TALBOT PASS"Written for the Otago Daily Times. Br Geokge M.' Moth. YH. Although the long desired return route from Milford Sound was discovered m 1909, it is only comparatively recently that much has been heard of it. The discovery was the outcome of extensive explorations by Messrs Win. G. Grave and Arthur Talbot, and their companions, in ’ toe course of which thev visited almost every valley in north-western Otago, from the Worsley Arm of Lake Te Anan and Bhgu Sound ‘in the south, to the lower 1 lollyford in the north. When eventually the pass was found, it was one much higher than the M’Kinnon Pass, but it bad the advantage that it commanded much nore magnificent views. The explorations proved in addition that there was no other pass in anv way comparable to M’Kinnon's in ease of negotiation. An account of the events which led to the discovery of the pass Was published in the Otago Daily Times of May 10, 1924, as one of a series of articles entitled “Unknown New Zealand,’ written by R. S. M. Sinclair. Those interested may consult this article, which also appears in the files of the Otago Witness. It should be added that Talbot made the supreme sacrifice in France, and a biting commemoration of his work is contemplated. The present is a suitable opportunity for drawing attention to the correct spelling and pronunciation of the name of the Grave-Talbot Pass. The delay in opening up the route van bo attributed partly to the war, but even since then progress has been slow. This summer a fine hut was built hi the Esperance Valley, and it was hoped vo have the hut in the Homer Valley completed. More urgent work has caused this to be deferred, but probably next summer will see the little kitenenette Hi ere replaced by a hut. It was in 1' ebruary, 1922, that the pkss was first mossed by an unguided party apart from the discoverers. The success of this party, consisting of three of the trackmen, was due to the care with which they had studied the approaches on both sides, especially on the Esperance side from which they started. At the end of the same yeai the first actual tourist party was piloted over by the writer. Since then only a few parties have made the traverse, but numerous others have visited the camps on either side where there will always be ample attractions for those who do not care to undertake the more strenuous trip over the pass. The route itself presents little difficulty to those acquainted with it, but it must on no account be attempted by inexperienced persons. This caution cannot be too strongly emphasised. in wet or misty weather especially the negotiation of" the pass may prove dangerous to the uninitiated. The directions here given, however, should, if carefully followed, enable a party to traverse the pass if the members of it have already a knowledge'of the district based on two or three season’s experience of finding their way about. Stout sticks from the bush (or ■ ice-axes) an alpine rope, and snow glasses will be required for the traverse. It takes about an hour to climb up the steep scree slopes to Homer’s' Saddle (4480 ft) where Quill's c airn will be found a little to the right. The danger from loose stones will be minimised if the party keeps close together. This rule, it may be added, is one which a party will find it well worth while to observe in all cases unless it lias been agreed upon to do otherwise. The route up the next 500 ft on the ridge to the west, known as Talbot’s Ladder, is marked by large white crosses, and the ascent is greatly facilitated bv the use of the wire ropes which have been placed in position. When, in. about 40 minutes, the top of the ladder is reached, the view will be found to bo immensely increased in extent. Ihe Homer and Hollyford Valleys stretch out to the ‘ southeast with Mounts Crosscut ' and Christina beyond them. To the north the great snowfield which lies between Mounts Macpherson and Lippc now appears quite close at hand. Deep in the valley on the south side of Homer’s Saddle is the source of the Clcddau River between 3000 and 4000 feet below. Away to the south stretch ridge behind ridge—a wonderful view which is not seen at its best until Lyttle’s Dip is attained. Before pro ceeding further it will be well to put on the alpine ropo which, if properly used, gives a sense, of security to novices. On bearing round to the left from the top of the ladder, after crossing patches of snow and big boulders, a large snowfield will be seen ahead. Above and beyond this is a rock ridge with a pronounced V iu it. This spot, known as Lyttle’s Dip, is the next objective and snowglasses should be donned. The climb of some 500 feet up the snowfield is easily negotiated with the aid of a stout stick which should be brought ’ up from the bush. The stick (or ice-axe) is held diagonally in front of the body with the sharp point low down on the side nearest the snow. At each step the point is thrust into the snow so that, in tho event of a slip, pressure on the stick will cause it to act as a brake. The strongest man of the party should load, for upon him devolves the heavy work of kicking in the snow the steps in which the others should endeavour to tread. Ice should bo avoided, as it necessitates the cutting of steps with the icer-axe. . If possible, each one should thrust his stick into the same hole as the one in front used. At Lyttle’s Dip (6560 ft), which is about an hour from Hie top of the ladder, will bo found to the right under a large rock a hole through which a man can just pass instead of climbing over the Rip. A few feet down on the other side there is a natural ledge which slopes gently round to the right to the next snowfield. By taking a level route across this, the Grave-Talbot Pass (5600 ft). is reached in half an hour. The spot which is marked bv a cairn and other mementoes, overlooks the Esperance Valley (beyond which are the Gulliver and Donne Valleys) and commands a magnificent view of Mounts Underwood, Tntoko, and the other , peaks to the north. The next is the hardest part of the route, but the difficulty lies chiefly in finding the way, although it is marked by a few white crosses. Early in the descent the party should go a little to the right (facing the Esperanee) and pass down under some overhanging rocks. Near the, foot of these it is necessary to bear to the left towards the steep (dry) watercourse in this gully. A little further down the watercourse a sinning ledge of rather paler rock is reached. This is about 800 ft from the top, and an hour is required to descend to it. This ledge is followed along to the left (westwards) rising slightly most of the way, while wire ropes will bo found in places where the footing is narrow. ‘After about an hour the ledge becomes wider again, with plenty of snow grass and not far along this is a little barn patch, about four yards in diameter. This spot, which is known as the tarn, because it is sometimes filled with water, is only about 50 feet from the top of the ridge. The descent is continued some 50 feet down a steep gut. To avoid some steep slabs one must swing out fo the right on a little spur, and return to the gut below the slabs. Presently the gully swings round to tho right. Now a steep scramble down snowgrass and scrubby slopes on the left of the creek bed will, in less than an hour and a-lialf from toe tarn, lead down to the main creek above the De Lambert Falls. Careful inspection of the edge of the bush across the creek will reveal a zigzag track by which the lull below tho falls can be reached in about a quarter of an hour. This but was built by Messrs Dan M’Kenzie and Win. M’Pherson, who also were responsible for putting the wire ropes on the pass. No one who understood the tremendously difficult work which these two hardy bushtnen performed would begrudge the naming of the huts after them, the M’Knnzi© Hut in the Homer and the M’Pherson Hut in the Esperance. ft is really much easier to find the vay over the pass starting from the Esperance aide for then the route across the ledges

can bo picked out from below. As chis is the chief difficulty it will be much better for a party attempting the pass unguided to make first a trip to the M’Kenzie Camp in the iiomer River, where a supply of food may be left to save carrying it over the pass. This will be a suitable opportunity, also, to climb up to the top of Talbot's Ladder and see the route to Lyttle’s Dip. After returning to How’den, Milford Sound may be reached via the Kglinton, Dore Pass and Glade House, and the party may then, with added confidence, make the attempt from the Esperance side. Thus an excellent round trip can be planned to occupy at least a fortnight. Supplies can be taken up the Greenstone to Howden by packborses, and the return made via Routehurn. Arrangements can be made to purchase food from the Tourist Department at Milford Sound or, what is better,' it. may be send round beforehand with the lighthouse steamer. It is hardly worth while carrying food oyer the To Anau-Milford Track, as this can he traversed in a day and a-haif and excel- j lent accommodation is provided.

From the M’Pherson Hut will be een, to the right of the De. Lambert Falls, the ridge on the south side of the. valley culminating in the round-topped Mount Macpherson, whose Imre rock precipices are such a striking contrast to the snowfields on the other side. About the middle of this ridge stands tip a great crag of rock or gensdarme. Halfway between this and Mount Macpherson is a fairly deep nick in the ridge, and this is the GraveTalbot Pass. The top of the falls is reached by climbing up a zigzag track through the hush on the left hand side of them. The bed of tho .main creek soon becomes very steep as it rises up behind tho falls to its source, which lies between Mount Macpherson to tho south and to the north a long, western spur of Mount Lippe. Above the falls & small creek conies in from the right, and this swings back towards the lowest nick in the ridge. The routo follows up tin's creek bed, but. at tho top goes up a steep gut leading to a slightly higher nick about halfway between the gensdarme and the lowest mek. Those who do not attempt the pass will find it well worth while to climb up an far as the top of toe ridge here, whence splendid views, including Mount Balloon to the south and Mount Tutoko to the north are obtainable. About 50 feet before the top is a little tarn which is frequently dried up. From the valley below, two ledges will be seen running across tho precipitous face of the ridge, and it is at the end of the higher of these that the tarn is situated. This ledge must bo followed along, descending slightly until the nick of the pass is seen straight above. Wire ropes will he found in the narrower places, but an - alpine rope is also essential, and in one or two places only one of the parly should move at a time. The ascent of the remaining 800 >fect is accomplished by bearing first to the left and later to tho right. A level traverse of the first snowfield brings one to Lyttle’s Dip, while there is a descent of four or five hundred feet across the next snowfield. Beginners may find this descent a little awkward, but with care it should be safely accomplished. As glissading down may prove dangerous, it should not be attempted. Should the ice be very much broken up by crevasses so that small avalanches are coming away from the bottom, it may bo better to swing over towards the rock wall on tho left before descending very much. This precaution is not likely to he necessary until much later in the season that the end of tnnary. On bearing round to the left er a bonldcry slope Ihe Homer arid Hollyford Volleys will presently come into view', and also tho narrow ■ ridge of Homer's saddle, with the source of the (Tleddau on the right. This ridge leads up to the top of Talbot’s Ladder, where the end of the wire x'ope is moored near a razor edge of rock, some 20 or 30 feet long. " It usually takes about two hours to get to tho tarn, while an hour is required for the ledges and another to climb the last 800 feet to the pass. Generally speaking, however, it is well to allow at least 12 hours for traversing the pass. On the other hand an experienced party has gone from the Esperance to Howden in 12 hours, including stops totalling nearly two hours. _ If there is plenty of time available, it is well worth while to scramble up to the top of the rocky knob to the south of Lyttle’s top. From this, which can he reached in less than 10 minutes, much more extensive views can ho obtained. To the right of Christina can be seen the Richardson Mountains, near Glenorchy, on the far side of Lake Wakatipu. Westwards are the Llawrenny Peaks, beyond Lake Ada, while the , top of tho Mitre is clearly distinguished for it is almost the game altitude as this pass. The great flat rock-lop of the Castle Mountain (nearly 7000 ft) south of the Clinton Canyon, is prominent, while Mount Balloon, somewhat to the right, is easily recognised. To the right of Bal loon is Mount Elliott, and just to toe left is Mount Daniel, with the characteristic snow slope on its eastern side. There are so many peaks and other features visible that it is hardly possible to enumerate them all, but those who know the country—and no one should attempt tho pass without such knowledge—will have little difficulty in recognising familiar points seen here from a grander coign of vantage.

It may be appropriate to add here a word or two about the tunnel, which is often mentioned as a necessity for an easy return route or direct route from Milford Sound to Queenstown. In the first place, the dictum may be quoted of the first surveyor who reported on the Grave-Talbot Pass—Mr D. Macpherson, after whom Mount Macpherson is named. In place of the proposed tunnel (some 600 or 700 yards long) under' Homer Raddle, he suggests the possibility of blasting a siding out 1 of the solid rock down , into the Cleddau from Homer’s Saddle, but lie adds: “Both these alternatives would, to my mind, rob the route of its most attractive part.” Not every one is fitted to climb over even M’Kinhon’s Pass, still less the Grave-Talbot Pass, and for such the tunnel would be a blessing if there were adequate means of transportation on either side. The dioritc rock through which the tunnel must be cut is riniila’to the hardest granite, especially in its resistance lo explosives and other tunnelling accessories. This will inevitably ren der the project, even for a short tunnel, very expensive. It would be ridiculous to commence operations without first constructing a high-class track to the spot. Especially on the Milford side, where the distance is shorter and the grade easier, would it he an advantage to have actually a narrow dray or sledge .road. The best site for the tunnel is not. as frequently supposed, under Homer’s Saddle. This is partly because the upper part of the Cleddau is very uninteresting, and partly because of tho length of this valley. A much- more direct route is to Adelaide Saddle in the head of the Gulliver. A very short tunnel under this would lead into Moraine Creek Valley, the scenery of which, including Lake Adelaide, is very fine. Thence a second tunnel under tho ridge of Barrier Mountain would lead into the Upper Hollyford. The length of these two tunnels would not be very much greater than that of one under Homer’s Saddle, but they would open up much more scenery. At first, the Adelaide Saddle one only could be constructed, and by means of a track thence down Moraine Creek the Middle Hut in the Hollyford could he reached and the journey to Queenstown completed via Lake Harris Saddle and the Routeburn. The journey from Milford Sound to Queenstown could thus be easily accomplished in four days, while good walkers might reduce this time by a day or even more. The lack of an accurate survey of the route is a factor which must further add to the ncei Maps of various portions of the district have from time to time been constructed on the basis of compass bearings, which are not at all reliable. There is difficulty, therefore, in fitting new maps or. to old ones so that even the most recent map is not without minor inaccuracies A great deal of work would bo required to connect up Wilmot’s trigonometrical survey of the lowei Hollyford with tho Admiralty (s.s. Acheron) survey of Milford Sound and the West Coost. The question cf the source of the power required for the work must also receive attention. If this could be cheaply obtained, the cost might be reduced to a more reasonable amount. Finally, the new route will add only to the number of pedestrians who visit the Sound, wlri’.e those able to come

hv sea will still Vie negligible if things remain as at present. To-day the five, rr ten thousand pounds which are absolutely essential for the proper development of Milford Sound as a tourist resort are lacking, and lev/ thorn be to raise a voice to ask for them. One must, therefore, regretfully <-ome to the conclusion that the tunnel project, the cost of which may easily run into six figures, is not likely to eventuate for very many years. Progress in the.se forgotten corners of Xew Zealand is exceedingly slow.