THE CATUNS DISTRICT

Otago Daily Times, Issue 19066, 11 January 1924, Page 13

THE CATUNS DISTRICT

ENORMOUS TIMBER RESOURCES. Excellent Dairying Land.

The settlement of the Catlins district is j more recent than that in most other | places in South Otago, although there j were a few landholders there at a comparatively early date. As far as can be ascertained Mr Simon Saunders was the first settler in the district, and ho took up land in Owaka in 1865. Mr Saunders, who was a master mariner, came to New Zealand from Melbourne in 1861, and when he went to the Cathns district he took two men with Rim to build a house. One of the men was a carpenter named Dixon. These men, however, knew very little about timber, and they split nothing but ribbonvvood trees. After residing ui the district for three years Mr Saunders went back to sea, but it is supposed that his vessel foundered with all hands as he was never heard of again. When he first went to the district he chartered a small vessel for the conveyance of his men and goods, and in July of the same year he took his family down in the Nora, between these two trips Mr George Harle settled in the district, and a little later Mr John Smith took up a farm. Other early settlers there were Messrs Brush, John Rae, W. Owens, MTntyre, and Charles Hayward (the father of Messrs C. H. and W. Hayward, of Dunedin). Incidentally it may be mentioned that Dir Brugh, his father, and a man named Dalrymple, went as far north from Dunedin as Shag Point in 1853 under the guidance of Mr Kirkland, and while there made a fire with Shag Point coal. ' Of the present day settlers Mr A. C. Saunders is probably the oldest. For many years the district was covered by well-nigh impenetrable bush, almost from South Molyneux to Waikawa. In the course of a conversation recently, the Hon. D. T. Fleming, of Balchitha, stated that so far as he was aware a German named Schmidt was the first person who tried to penetrate the bush from the Waikawa end. He left Fortrose or Waikawa in company with some Maori guides, and was traced as far as a point near what a d was traced as far as Pillans’ Head, on the north sidfe of Tahakopa Bay. He was traced to that point by the tin foil on some chocolates which he carried with him, and it is surmised that he ran short of food at that stage of the journey. It appears that Schmidt quarrelled with most of the Maori guides at Tahakopa or Tautuku River, and that he then came on in company with only one Maori boy. As he tailed to reach his destination on the Molyneux side search parties were sent out in due course, but they failed to find any trace of him, he has never been heard of since. borne 25 vears ago, when the present owner of the land abutting on Pillans’s Head was fencing along the headland he came across some °human bones. Sir Thomas Mackenzie and Mr Fleming proceeded to the locality with the object of getting possession of the bones in view of the possibility that they were the remains of Schmidt. Thev collected a number of bones and also’ made a careful search in the hope of discovering something in the shape of buttons or knives, or other articles of metal that would be more likely to belong to a European than to a Maori, but they failed to locate anything that would assist them. Certain bones were sent to Professor Scott, _ o! the Otago University, and after making an examination he reported to the effect that the bones were those of two one of whom was more or less full-grown, while the other was either young or was a female. Mr Fleming mentioned that the bones were found on a projecting point on the headland, and under the shelter of an old Totara tree, the position suggesting that the people who had died there had gone to the headland to look for some passing vessel and had perished from fatigue or starvation. “Our observations,•' said Mr Fleming, “somewhat discounted Professor Scott’s theory that the remains were those of two Maoris, but of course, nothing further could be done in the matter, and the fate of Schmidt remains a mystery until this day.” The settlement of the Owaka Valley dates back to the “seventies,” the first settlers finding their way through the dense brush from the Port Molyneux district. The land in that valley has proved to be splendid. The old townshin at the road leading down to the big mill has gone, and the church, school, stores, post office, and everything else are now situated in the vicinity of the railway station. According to the old plans this settlement should be known as Quakerfield, the sections in which were mostly cut up by the Rev John Ryley, a veteran minister of the Presbyterian Church. The original settlement south of the Catlins was on the northerly slopes facing Catlins Lake, where Ratanui is now situated. This settlement was laid out about 1886 or 1887. About 1891 or 1892, when the bush settlement was boomed, the land in the whole district was taken up with remarkable celerity. This occurred before provision was made for reads or anything else which would the settlers within reasonable distance of other centres, and this handicapped the district for several years. This settlement really took place before its time, as the railway was constructed only as far as Komahapa then, and the difficulties of transport were almost insuperable in the absence of roads. One effect was that the settlers, who had to make their holdings reproductive, as soon as possible, were compelled to waste millions of feet of what would now be valuable timber, there being no means of getting it to market at a reasonable cost. The Government spent thousands of pounds in providing roads and tracks for the convenience of the settlers, Ipit the difficulties involved in carrying on operations were so great that many people found it impossible to carry on. For the first 20 years or so the ’settlement in the Catlins bush was more or less a failure, but the original settlers who managed to hold on and those who have taken up land within the last two decades have done well, thanks to the opening up of roads and the construction of the railway, which have provided facilities that have made all the difference between success and failure. It is a great pity that the enterprising people who had "the courage to take up land in its undeveloped state were not able to reap the fruits to which their industry entitled them. The land has quite fulfilled expectations, and the Catlins district, as we know it to-day, can be pointed to as a very successful settlement.

Prior to the beginning of 1886 no means of communication had been opened up between the Mataura district and Catlins River, but in January of that year a party consisting of the Hon. Sir Thomas Mackenzie, Mr W. S. Pillans, and Mr John Sharp explored the forest from the head of Gatlins Lake through to Tautuku. where they struck a track which had been formed by Mr John Strauchon, then district surveyor, who was penetrating from the south end. Sir Thomas Mackenzies party continued their exploration until they reached Fortrose. Subsequently explorations were made up and down the Tabakopa Valley, and reports were sent to the Government, leading to the opening up of that country and its settlement and reading. Sir Thomas Mackenzie’s hut was the first built up the Tahakopa River. In the course of the journey the party struck up a valley afterwards called the Mackenzie Valley. Thu (Viilius district offers numerous attractions os a holiday resort. At Tautuko h’.av then* is a beautiful stretch of Loach oxlc.niling about four miles, with jwikv hand bend at each end, and a grotwen oi bush. Then there is the

lovely Tautuku River, a branch of the Fleming River (named after the Hon. D. T. i leming), where the beautiful bush makes a strong appeal to those who are prepared to travel some distance to see nature at its best. The Tahakopa peninsula, on the north side, has a beach very similar to that at Tautuku. In the Tahakopa district there is a boarding house at a place called Papatowai, about a, mile from where the Tahakopa River enters the ocean.

The Tahakopa Valley comprises some of the .best land in the Catlins district, and the first selection there was made by Sir Thomas Mackenzie in the “eighties, just after he had made a trip through there. The property was afterwards acquired by the late Mr D. M. Fea, and more recently it passed into the hajids of Dr Truby King, who established a model dairy farm there at considerable expense. In time the Tahakopa Valley will be equal to the Owaka Valley, but it is not so much developed as the latter at present. The terminus of the Catlins railway is at the head of the Tahakopa Valley, and beyond the station is the Kimu block, where 'eight cr 10 settlers took up land in 1885. As a result of their energy and enterprise this area now presents a beautiful appearance. The 'lahakopa Valley, which extends some eight cr ten miles inland from the sea, comprises an area of 5000 or 6000 acres. Going north-west we come to the Catlins Lake, where Pounawea and False Island are situated. Apparently F’alse Island was entirely surrounded by water in by-gone days, but it is now connected with the mainland by a chain of sandhills. Un the south side of the lake are the Catlins heads and the famous blowhole, wliich is a big hole in the ground about two chains away from the cliffs and connected with the sea by a subterranean channel. The water surges through the channel with a great boom, and this place is one of the greatest attractions of the district. In the ocean off this part of the coast is Bloody Jack's Island, named after a Maori of rough type about whom there are numerous stories current. Between False Island and the Nuggets there are many beautiful places of considerable interest to tourists. In years gone by great expectations were entertained regarding the future of Pounawea, where there is excellent boating and fishing, but owing to the distance of the place from Owaka and the prevalence of sandflies and mosquitos it has not developed to the same extent as Molyneux Bay. In the estuary near Pounawea are the remains of the Surat, which was wrecked on New Year’s Day 1874. News of the wreck was conveyed to Port Molyneux through a track, and a message was sent from Port Molyneux to Balchitha. In the “seventies” or “eighties ' a powder mill, which was the property of Mr C. G. V. Leijon, who subsequently took up his residence in Dunedin, was erected on the banks of the Owaka River. Charcoal was made from ina-ina and mokimoki trees, and both gunpowder and blasting powder were manufactured on the premises. The operations were carried on for some years, but it is generally understood that the venture was not a profitable one. Eventually the industry came to an end as a result of the mill being blown un. A great deal of very interesting information about the early history of Catlins River has been preserved by Mr C. H. Hayward, of Dunedin, who contributed two articles to the Otago Daily Times in October. 1922. The material collected by Mr Hayward shows that the Catlins River to-day gives no indication of what the conditions were about 45 years ago, and no signs of the number of ships that were lost on its sandy beach or on the rugged rocks covered with kelp, the only reminder of the old days being the existence of the lower mast of the flagstaff. Catlins River was discovered hy Captain Catlin, but in the absence of records it is difficult to say when the discovery was made. As early as May 8, 1844, however, Mr Tuckett mentioned in his diary that ho passed Catlins Bay on his way south in the schooner Deborah. Captain Catlin was rewarded for his discovery, the Government giving him a section of land close to Pounawea. There is little doubt that the south-east coast of Otago was well known to whalers us long ago as 1830. What is now known as Owaka was formerly called the Owake Flat, the name being changed about the time tiio railway was constructed. The first vessel known to have entered Catlins River was the schooner Nora, which was chartered to take down the plant for the first sawmill in the district, and which was under the command of Mr Hayward's father. This mill, which was situated about a mile below what is now known as the Landing or Government Jetty, was started in 1803 by Messrs Brugh and Thomson, and was afterwards known as the “Old Mill.” In an account of his arrival at Catlins River Captain Hayward stated that it was a bright January day, with a light breeze from E.N.E. It seemed as though the vessel was going to strike every minute, the water being so clear and the bottom —an ugly rocky one—appearing so close. However, all went well, and wo rounded a sandspit into a beautiful harbour. Large flocks of grey ducks seemed surprised at being disturbed. Wild pigeons and kakas were very plentiful. We soon reached the mouth of the Owaka River, now Pounawea, and after experiencing some trouble through the tide of the larger river passing the mouth of the smaller one we found ourselves moving up this beautiful little stream. In some places the trees overhung to such an extent that they brushed against our rigging. Mr Adams and party (Government surveyors) were camped near the mouth of the river, and as they had run out of flour they were glad to see us. The Owaka River was very much deeper in the early days than it is now. At one time vessels could load to a 7ft draught, and at the lowest spring tides the shallowest places were about 3ft Gin deep, whereas a few years ago Mr Hayward found apparently only about 12in of water at the mouth at low tide. The change was partly due to a big flood which occurred about 25 years ago. Amongst the first men who worked at the “Old Mill" were Messrs Dutton, Brydon. Miller, Stevenson. Stratford, Marshall, Harle, M’Lean, Latta, and Lyon. About 1565 or 18GG the ft)! lowing settlers arrived on the Owaka Flat i —Mr and Mrs Harle and son, Mr and Mrs Lees and family. Mr Saunders ant) family, Mr and Mrs MTntyre, Mr and' Mrs .Smith, Mr and Mrs Logan and family, Mr and Mrs Rcay, and Mrs Hayward and son. Soon afterwards Mr and Mrs Johnston and family arrived in the district. At that time nearly the whole of the Owaka Flat was covered with flax. A rough sledge track was cut down the centre, and bullocks were the only animals available for ploughing or hauling goods for transport. The first horses in the district were introduced by Mr Saunders. Wild pigs, ducks, pigeons, and kakas were very plentiful. Several of the first houses were built by Mr Robert Lees, the timber being cut by a pit saw. The first two white women to arrive at Catlins River were Mrs Harle and Mrs Smith. When they were being landed by a boat from the Nora they had a contest for the honour of being first ashore, and so keen was it that the captain of the vessel always declared that it was a dead heat. Mrs Smith remained

at the mill, and Mrs Harle was the first white woman on Owaka Flat. The first school was a. building about 10ft bv 12ft, and the first teacher was a man named Thomson. Mrs Dutton, who was one of the pioneers in the district, acted as a. nurse, in which capacity she was greatly esteemed. In 1872 Captain Hayward was appointed Harbour Master, and he retained the position till 1887, when his services were dispensed with, as only an occasional vessel visited or left the’ port. Amongst the vessels that visited the port before 1870 were the Huou Bello (Captain Saunders), Kate (Keenan), Nora (Hayward), the steadier Taiaroa. (Tall), Planet, Jane, and Flying Squirrel. About 1870 the upper Owaka was opened up, a rough track being out from one flat to the other. Among the first settlers were Messrs Tolmie,' Hill, and Rogers. The first post office was in Messrs Dabinett and Young’s store, but a few years later the Government built a post and telegraph office where the old township used to be. The first hotel was built by Mr K. Lees about 1871, and was kept by Mr Sutherland and later by Mr James Vial. This hotel was eventually destroyed by fire. About 1871 a new mill, afterwards known as the “Big Mill" was started. It was situated on the Catlins River about a mile above Pounawea, and was managed by Mr John Green. This null was burnt down on January 29, 18(9, but was rebuilt on a much larger scale. The manager then was Captain Andrews, a very popular man. This mill had quite a small town round it, including its own school, and when four and five schooners were loading at the wharves the place was very busy. This mill was closed down about 1882. On March 28, 1874, the Lloyd’s Herald arrived with another mill plant for Messrs Guthrie and Larnach, whose mill was situated about three-quarters of a mile above the landing. A few years ago there was only one post standing to mark the place where the mill had stood. Mr M’Phee took up his abode in the district soon after the arrival of the first settlers, and Mr Hayward states that no early history of Catlins River would be complete without reference to his wonderful ability as a shipwright and to the five vessels he built. No finer models were ever designed in New Zealand. Hie vessels, six of which were constructed, were built on the banks of the Owaka River. The first was the Jane Hanna, which was launched in 1870. and then came the Eliza M'Phce, Catlin, Anna, Owake, and Owake Bolle. The last was launched in May, 1877. The topsail schooner Owake, 63 tons register, was the /argest. On her first trip to Dunedin she soon left all the other vessels that sailed with her.

Oh the morning of September 6, 1877, no fewer than 11 vessels sailed on the same tide, their names being Anna, Good Templar, Owake Belle, Lloyd’s Herald, s.s. Ino, Fanny, Jane Hanna, Janet Ramsay, Mary Ellen. Isabella and Jane. Mr Hayward states that this was about the largest number of vessels that sailed on the one tide, though it was not unusual to see three or four arrive or depart the same day. The average size of these vessels was from 40 to 50 tons. Th Martha E<vd, pO tons, was the largest sailing vessel that entered the port. The vessels arriving at the port were never fully loaded as the requirements of the place were small. The bar at Gatlins River was responsible for a number of -wrecks, the most notable being that of the Surat o- New Year’s Day, 1874. The first vessel to be lost was the ketch Kate (Captain Peterson), which came to grief about 1870. The fore part, from the mainmast to the bowsprit, was visible for many years on the sand spit about half a mile from the entrance.

In 1871 the Aurora (Captain Kenan) was lost while going out. _ She was afterwards completely buried in the sand at the end of the spit, her masts and the end of her gibboom being the only parts visible. About 40 years later portion oi the hull reappeared, and Mr P. Millar got some black pine posts out of it. In 1872 the topsail schooner Caledonia (Captain Walker) went ashore on the sp't, became waterlogged, and finally drifted into the harbour. Her hull remained in front of Mr Millar’s residence for years. On July 2G, 1874, while the schooner Cambria (Captain Saunders) was going out the wind died away, and she drifted on to the spit, where she soon became waterlogged, the seas breaking right over her. The crew took to the rigging, and were rescued at low tide. The vessel finally drifted into the harbour, where she was temporarily repaired and then sailed for Dunedin.

’The topsail schooner Spec (Captain Madson) grounded on the centre rock while going out. When the tide started to come in a slight sea arose, and tlic vessel was soon waterlogged. Eventually she drifted into the harbour, whore she was repaired, sailing for Dunedin four months later.

On August 3,187 G, while the schooner Dagmar (Captain Cormcr) was going out, with the stiff breeze from W.S.W. and a heavy roll on the bar, she struck a rock, afterwards named the Dagmar Rock. Her masts trembled, hut she never stopped. She seemed all right at the time, but when she was off the Nuggets the cook went down below, and noticed the water over the cabin floor. The Dagmar was immediately headed for Molyneux Bay, but as soon as she was close hauled she went over on her beam ends. Fortunately the cutter Jane was not far away, and went to her assistance. There was a heavy sea running, but the crow of the Dagmar was rescued, though only with great difficulty. When Captain Tunbridge., of the Jane, reached Dunedin he was presented with a handsome gold watch in recognition of his bravery. On September 14, 1883, the Isabella (Captain Fullerton), which had been a regular trader to the port for many years, wont ashore on the spit. The wind died away after she passed the centre rock. She "finally broke up, and portions of her went ashore in various parts of the harbour. It is stated that one portion found its way up to Catlins Lake. After the pilot station was closed the cutter Dauntless went ashore, but she was refloated and repaired. Captain Hayward bought her with the object of making her into a trawler, but she was finally lost on Long Point, about 11 miles south of Catlins. Captain Hayward. one of his sons, and a Mr Wilson perished in the wreck, but another of the captain’s sons was saved. On June 27, 1880, the Jane Hanna (Captain Currie) left Catlins River for Lyttelton, but she never reached her destination. She was supposed to have been seen by the schooner Pelican off Banks Peninsula, and a little later a quantity of wreckage, apparently from her, went into Akaroa Harbour. This was the only vessel from Catlins River that -was lost with all hands. The most notable wreck at Catlins River was that of the ship Surat, while on a voyage from London. From the official account it appears that the ship struck five times on some rocks to the southward, and as she was sinking the captain had to put her on to the beach to save the lives of the passengers and crew. There were 270 passengers on board, some of whom had been previously landed in Jack’s Bay, about half an hour’s Avalk from Catlins. Owing to the water in her hold the Surat was drawing

over 20ft, and she soon grounded. Fortunately she was beyond the broken water, otherwise the boats would not have been able to leave her and cross the bar. The landing was accomplished safely, and as the Hayward family was the only ouo within miles of the wreck it had the unique experience of a surprise visit from some 300 people for dinner. At that time the Haywards lived in a large hut, as the pilot station house had not been built. With the aid of the stores on shore and a few things brought from the wreck the ship's cook soon provided a meal for the large assembly. The passengers wore afterwards transferred to a French man-of-war, which proceeded to the scene from Port Chalmers. The wreck was bought by a salvage company, which carried on operations till May 10, 1874, by which time the vessel had settled down very much, only the bow and the poop being out of the water. Two years later there was scarcely anything visible except at low tide. Mr Hayward states that there was great excitement when the coach service to Balclutha was started. The coach arrived at Gatlins on Friday evening and loft again the following morning. The road through the bush was in a deplorable state, and sometimes the coach would get stuck. The driver would then take the mail on on one of the horses, and the passengers were left to their own devises, either maing use of the other horses or walking—generally the latter. In the early days each of the sawmills had its own store, buying from the farmers and retailing to the employees. The shops contained a great variety of boots, clothing, tobacco, groceries, and medicine, the last-mentioned generally consisting of castor oil and painkiller.

The Blow Hole was accidentally discovered about 1875 by a bullock-driver named J. Thomson, while he was searching for his team. Many people doubted its existence for a time, but later Mr J. Green, and subsequently Captain Hayward and Mr C. H. Hayward came across it. At Jack’s Bay there is a very fine beach, with a gradual slope, similar to that at Warrington. At the end of the beach is Jack’s Island, about 60 acres in extent. This island was formerly occupied by Maoris, as several Maori skeletons and a 'few Maori curios, ns well as Maori potatoes and cabbage were found on it. Cannibal Bay was so named on account of the number of Maori ovens found there, giving evidence of cannibalistic feasts in the early days. Mr and Mrs Forsyth took ur> their residence on False Island in 1874, and for many years were the sole occupiers. Aftei thev left the place it was never again occupied, and now provides a good home for rabbits.