THE CLUTHA DISTRICT

Otago Daily Times, Issue 19066, 11 January 1924, Page 10

THE CLUTHA DISTRICT

The earliest history of the southern part of New Zealand is closely associated with the whaling industry, which was carried on for a long time with a considerable measure of success and without interference by the Maoris. As long ago as 1829 a whaling station was established at Preservation Inlet by a man named Captain Williams, and the industry was also carried on at other places along the east coast of Otago, principally at Waikouaiti, on behalf of Mr John Jones, at laie.i Mouth, whore the Ihilmens had settled, and at Tautuku, wnere a man named Tommy Chasland was a well-known figure. Chasland, who acted as manager for Mi' Jones for some time, is described as one of the bravest, of a race famous for thencontempt of danger. It is stated (says Mr Wilson’s “Reminiscences of the Parly Settlement of Dunedin and South Otago’ ) that on one occasion his boat was cut in two by the flukes of a whale, to which they had approached too close. Three of the occupants of the boat were nevei seen again, but Chasland and two others clung to the stem half of the boat. As a thick fog was coming on chasland decided to swim to the shore for help. Some time afterwards the other two mc_ were picked up by a passing boat and were taken aspire, There was no sign o Chasland in the water, but eventually hi was seen approaching the whaling station utterly devoid of clothing after swimming six miles to land. While .arrangements were in progress for the establishment of a Scotch colony in the South Island Captain Fitroy was appointed (Governor of New Zealand, ana ' he carried out instructions from Lord Stanley to assign Port Cooper, on Banks Peninsula, as the site for the settlement provided a better one could not be found in the same island. When the arrangements with the New Zealand Land Company were completed Mr 'Frederick Tackett "was , appointed to conduct liminary steps, and on his suggestion it was decided to explore the south-eastern and southern coasts in order to determine fine best side. On March 31, 184-4, the brigantine Deborah, commanded by was chartered for the exploration work. The party comprised Mr Tuckett, -Mr Symonds, who was appointed by Captain Fitzroy to assist 1 in effecting a" valid purchase of the land, Dr Monro, Messrs Wether, Wilkinson, Barnicoat, and Davidson. The Rev. Mr Wohlers, a Ger man missionary, also accompanied to party, his object being to secure a suit able place to carry on missionary work among the Maoris. After making exhaustive examinations at Port Cooper Mr Tuckett decided t;. proceed to W aikouaiti and Otakou harbour. At the. latter place he climbed the hills, and was so pleased with the scene before him that he ordered the Deborah to proceed to Molyneux Bay while i journeyed overland". I 1 rom Molyneux Ba.he proceeded to Bluff, the survey partycarrying on operations inland in the meantime. After going carefully into t matter Mr Tuckett selected the Otago block as the most suitable for the settle ment, arid in due course his recommendation was adopted. In the course of a report covering the exploration work carried out by Mr Tuck ett’s party Dr Monro wrote:—"The southernmost portion is watered by -tie rivers Pueruu-, ivoau., tine! Clutha, "beside?many smaller streams, the fertile shores o which will furnish an admirable series of sections. The plain of Tokomairiro is of large extent and is grass-covered, while from it there is an almost level pass to the Taieri, which is somewhat swampy, but which will be a valuable district. The Clutha, with its valley, is one of the most valuable in the block, and runs from Molyneux Bay block inlan as far as the eye can reach. On landing from our craft we saw the long, kbeach at the bottom of the bay, with large extent of almost level country Dehind it. On mounting to the top of son low sandhills we came in view of the Molyneux Riyer, a majestic stream about a quarter of a mile broad, deep, clear as crystal, and with well-defined banks, flowing with a steady, gentle current. T our eyes it was a magnificent stream, quite capable, of being navigated by fairly large boats. We could trace its course through a large extent of alluvial land the fringe of ti-trees, on its banks and by the numerous groves of trees, all o which produced a most picturesque effect. Immense quantities of flax were to be seen growing in profusion in its neighbourhood. At a distance inland ther« gentle slopes, apparently covered with grass and fern, and rising to a moderate height. Behind these no mountains wore visible except away to the northwest, where the white tops of a fardistant range showed themselves. The country was altogether one of groat beauty and unusually rich softness. The Clutha plain turned out to be of large extent, and had a fine growtli of grass and immensely tall flax, and in many parts there wore immense tracts of bush, brilliantly green in colour, and echoing with the song of native birds. In every direction there were extensive tracts of valuable-looking land, though signs were not wanting Unit some parts were liable to floods. Away to the east, connected with each other and with the Clutha River by navigable streams, were two shallow lakes of considerable size. The shores of these embraced long strips of fertile land, which gladdened the eyes of the beholders. This part of the country was more grassy, only parts of the hills showing any bush, while indications of the presence of coal were found by some of our party. Away to the south of the Molyneux was a densely-wooded line or hills, gorgeous in their beauty and fringed with open spaces of a greenness to which our eyes had long been strangers. Here and there were patches of corn and potatoes, grown by the only white settlers —Willshcv and Russell—a conclusive proof of the fertility of the soil. Up the river and to . the west were beautiful slopes, some wooded, some ferny, and others covered with grass and flax. At their base flowed a stream, the Puerua, through what we a vast swamp, but the growth of vegetation, was so abundant and varied that it was impossible to say without a closer view how correct our opinion was. On topping the hills some time afterwards we saw that the country to the west divided itself into two distinct blocks —one rather hilly, extending in the same direction as the coast line, and the other, all undulating land, stretching as far as the eye could reach. The latter was covered with groat white tussocks, interspersed with flax and fern, but in no case was there any bush to be seen. The whole of this vast tract was well watered, but not a sign of habitation or the presence of man could be seen, and it appeared as if the traveller had been suddenly transported into a vast land of silence and loveliness indescribable.” The following extract about this part of the district is taken from a different sour( . e: —“The sight of the, district was the forest-clad hills, and to the eyes of thte weary traveller they appeared as a veritable Garden of Eden. The upper parts were covered with fern, the lower by ' a dense forest of gigantic trees of immense height and of varieties unknown —kowhais with their golden bell-like flowers, ratas with bright crimson flowers, long, waving, feathery, palm-like fern trees,

pines with crown-like tops, and. stretching above all, the glittering white clematis, like stars of night, added, to the beauty of the scene.” '

Owing to very wet weather the selection of rural lands was not made for a considerable time after the arrival of the settlers in 1848. Parties were organised to inspect and report, and several selections were made in the Molyneux district, but the majority were made in the Taieri. The pioneers did not wait for the construction of roads, but sot out, often accompanied by their wives and children, to force a way through flax, fern, and tntu, and to wade through streams and swamps —a very arduous undertaking. Gradually they spread through the Taieri, Tokomairiro, and Molyneux districts. Many of the early settlers in the Tokomairiro and Molyneux districts had to carry their supplies on their backs from Dunedin, and it was no uncommon experience to carry 501 bof flour to the Molyneux.

In the early days the coastal trade was carried on by large open boats, which, carried supplies for the settlers of Tokomairiro and the Molyneux before there were any roads. Mr Antonio Joseph traded one of these boats to the Molyneux and up and down the coast from Waikouaiti to Stewart Island. In April. 184(5. Messrs Edward Jollie. Andrew Wylie, and A. (’. V ills, surveyors, had a contract to survey land at Port Molyneux. They chartered the brig Bee in Wellington, and in due course arrived at Molyneux Bay, where they anchored four miles from the mouth of the river. Snow was falling, and the surf was heavy, but they landed safely. Shortly afterwards they were visited by Messrs Thomas and Harrison, who had a survey contract on the northern side of the river. Messrs Thomas and Harrison had chartered a schooner to take their party and stores to the Molyneux. The instruments and men were landed with the exception of one man. The landing of the stores was deferred until the next day, but during the night the wind rose, and the schooner had to take her departure. As she did not return, the survey party was left without provisions, and had to make the best of life by catching wild pigs. Some months later the man who had been left on board returned and reported that the schooner had to run as far as Akaroa, rind that the captain refused to return, landing the stores and the members of the party. Before the man could get a vessel to take him to the Molyneux the cost of living, storage charges, and other expenses. absorbed the selling value of the stores. Jollic’s survey was completed in a little more than a year. Before the tide of immigration set in there were very few settlors at the Mataa. Mr Tucket mentions Harrison, Thomas, and Wylie as farming there, but there were also George Willsher, Thomas Russell, and a few others. It appears that during a New Zealand land boom in 1839-40 a Sydney merchant named Thomas Jones became a large operator. He claimed to have purchased from the native owners 307,000 acres of land, of which 25G.000 acres were in the Molyneux district. A syndicate was formed, stock purchased, and the brig Portcuia chartered to convey a party to the Molyneux. Besides Mr Jones, the vessel carried Messrs Willsher, William Bcssant, Conning, and Russell. Mr Willsher represented Mr Jones as resident agent, Mr Bessant represented two men named Cruickshanks and Cohen, who belonged to the syndicate, and Mr Conning represented an area of 7000 acres purchased from Mr Jones. It is thought that Mr Russell was another purchaser from Mr Jones. The last-named, who remained in New Zealand till his death, which took place many years ago, was awarded 100 acres in place of his claim of thousands of acres, and a hope which he cherished of getting additional concessions vjms never realised.

The Portcnia’s party landed near the Kororo Creek, and it is stated that Mr Willsher was so disgusted with the failure of Hie expedition that he remained in New Zealand. Ho secured some 20 acres at the mouth of the Kororo, anil the bay near Port Molyneux is called Willsher Bay after him. Mr Wilson’s “Reminiscences” state that Willsher and Russell were saved from being eaten by the Maoris by the action of the Maori queen, Mata Makariri (frost.), whom Willsher married and with whom he lived for many years. It is recorded that when a dispute took place Makariri indulged in the pastime of throwing pots, pans, furniture, and bedding out of the whare, but when she regained her composure she quietly restored them to their proper places. When her husband ill-treated her she would swim out to a large rock near the beach, which is still called Makariri’s Rock. Makariri had no family, but she adopted the eldest son of Hermoni Bakiraki, a well-known Maori chief. When this child broke into a fit of temper Makariri stripped him of his solitary garment, throw him in the river, and quietly walked along the bank, smoking her pipe, until he floundered ashore. In 1859 Mr Willsher sold his stock and loft New Zealand, nothing being heard of him until 18S0, when a lady well known in Otago met him in Loudou.

The following selections of land in the Clutha district were made on November lb, 184 Y :—George Ross and Andrew Mercer, 50 acres. Port Molyneux ; James Williamson, 50 acres, Clutha (this is now part of the Otanomomo Estate); Frederick Ward, 200 acres. Inch Clutha; Susan Frazer, 60 acres. Tnakitoto; Mary Fraser, 50 acres. South Tnakitoto; William Westland, 50 acres, North Molyneux ; John Brown and Sons b 0 acres, South molyneux ; John M'Dernrid, 50 acres, South Molyneux ; W. H. Cutten, 50 acres. South Molyneux ; David uarrick, 50 acres, South Molyneux ; W. A. Mosley, 50 acres, South Molyneux ; Charles Smith, 50 acres, South Molyneux. In 1848 the selections were as follow:—J. L. Baker, J.CO acres, Te Houka; W. H. Valpv, 50 acres Inch Clutha; Howard and lieber Lakeman, 50 acres. Inch Clutha; a". M. and D. J. Napier, 50 acres, Inch Clutha; James M‘Hardy, 100 acres, Inch Clutha; Thomas Redpata, 100 acres, Inch Clutha; John 1 iamage, 50 acres, Inch Clutha: William Boswell, or Busnell, 50 acres, North Molyneux ; W. B. and A. D. Fuller, 50 acres, South Molyneux ; William Chalmers, 50 acres, Warepa and 50 acres, Puerua-; Thomas Ferguson, 50 acres, Inch Clutha. Th© following areas were taken un in 1849 Robert Craig, 50 acres, Puerua ; J 11. Stirling, 50 acres, Puerua; o. and A. Barr, 50 acres, Inch Clutha; R. U. Smith, b 0 acres, Inch Clutha ; C. Brother - ston and May Taylor 50 acres, Puerua; David and William Hiring, 50 acres, Inch Clutha ; Jas. Stevenson, 50 acres, inch Clutha;-John Hutchinson, 50 acres, North Molyneux; C. M. and IV. G. Taylor, 5-0 acres, warepa; Janies Smith, a section at bouth Molyneux; William and Peter Smith, 50 acres, Inch Clutha: F. S. Lilians, 50 acres, Inch Clutha; Wm. Perkins, 50 acres, Puerua. In 1850 land was selected by the following James and George Wallace, 50 acres, Block XV, cJnitha survey district; T. B. Archibald, 50 acres. Block XV Clutha survey district; Alex. Swan, 00 acres, Puerua; Thos. Trumble, 50 acres, north Molyneux;

EARLY DAYS RECALLED. # EXPERIENCES OF FIRST LAND-OWNERS. Progress of Settlement.

Samuel Blythe, 50 acres, Te Houka; William Currie, 50 acres, Inch Clutha. One of the earliest residents of Otago was Mr Archibald Anderson, who left Port Glasgow on October 31, 1839, in the _ ship Bengal Merchant, arriving at Port Nicholson on February came down to have a look at the Otago country, and being well satisfied with it he chartered two schooners in Wellington, sending down 30 cows, two horses, and 500 sheep, all of which were landed at Otago Heads without loss. Mr Anderson remained in Wellington for 18 months to settle up his business affairs, and when he returned to Otago ho took nn land at Blueskin, where Jie remained for two years. Owing to the depredations of native dogs, however, be shifted his stock to Saddle Hill. About 1850 Mr Anderson leased the North Molyneux run, of 39,000 acres, extending from the lake to Manuka island. His first house on this run was near Moir’s bush, above Barnego Flat. At that time and for some time afterwards h© had a store in Dunedin, at the corner of Princes and Rattray streets, and he was the first postmaster in Otago. Later on, when the place was becoming more extensively settled, Mr Anderson bought 2000 acres, extending from the present railway bridge at Balclutha to the lake front, on condition that he made improvements to the value of per acre within four years, but this regulation was done away with. About 1853 or a 054 he bought tOO acres of land on Inch Clutha tor £2 per acre, and settled his family there. 'This area was well known as the Balmoral Farm. The family were convoyed from Dunedin to the Clutha in a s'.edge drawn by two bullocks, and the journey occupied a week. Mr Anderson lived at Balmoral for 2b years, and then took up his abode at the Hermitage, where he resiued for the last 30 years of his life. After two years he leased his run to Mr Peter Bell,' who afterwards settled at Money Creek. In the fiitaes Mr Anderson also took up the Beaumont run, but he sold it as a going concern about iB6O, the price received for it being £1 per sheep, While at Balmoral Mr Anderson kept a boat for the purpose of conveying settlers across the river to the south, and for lev.;’ years he employed a man to work a ferry across the river. Mr Matthew Marshall crossed the river at the site of this ferry about on his way south to Popotuuoa hill to shepherd for —r Mere--■th. j

\Vhile at Balmoral Mr Anderson used to grow his own wheat and grind it into ficur in a steel mill. All the produce grown had to be sent by boat from -fort iVjoiyneux to Dunedin. Large quannues of potatoes were marketed by Mr Anderson in this way ; but owing to the heavy transport charges the profits were small. Anv goods procured from rjunedin had to be 'sledged from Finegand. Any account dealing with the early settlement of the province would be incomplete without some reference to the noble part played by the women, who encountered almost insuperable difficulties and trials that must have frequently discouraged them. However, having made up their minds to take their share in the task of carving out homes in their adopted country, they faced the conditions bravely and never thought of giving in. Long journeys by land and ; sea in order to reach their new homes were undertaken resolutely, arid the hardships incidental to their travels were endured in a manner that must evoke the admiration of the present generation, who can scarcely realise what the pioneers had to put up with. When land in Southland was one nod un for occupation many of the settlers near Dunedin decided to settle there. ' In most cases the men went overland with their cattle, while the women proceeded to their new homes by sea. When there was a shortage of provisions the neighbours divided their tea and shared the last of their flour and sugar with each other. These heroic women had many resources when their supplies gave out altogether, and when tea was unprocurable they made a beverage from the small leaves of the manuka or the shoots of the hid-a-bid, while wheat was roasted and ground as a substitute for coffee. Many of the settlers who wished to reach the country districts undertook the journey on foot as there were few conveyances and no roads- or oridges. borne went by sea in an open boat, sailing by day provided the wind was favourable, landing at night, and sleeping in a tent made out of the sail. Sometimes weeics elapsed before these ladies reached the end of their voyage. On occasions the boats, after running before the wind, would be suddenly turned back, and oiten tho passengers had to walk the rest of the way, the mother carrying a oany, and the' others what few necessaries they could, sleeping under the flax at night and bravely trudging on during the day. The creeks were crossed by resorting to wading, and the deeper streams were negotiated on a raft constructed of the koradi.

An extract written uy one of the -Jst women who went to the Clutha is worth recording. “We left Port Chalmers, she states, “to go to the Clutha in a boat, half decked—my husband, five children, and myself, and two men to manage the boat. Halfway to the Heads we were caught on a sandbank, and had to wait till the tide rose and boated us. x<ong after dark we reached the old Maori Aam at the Heads, and anchored there. The children (my baby was only six montns old) and I were so sick that we had to be carried on shore, where we lay in the open air all night. In the morning, naming no cooked food with us, we walaed to a small accommodation house about a mile away, and we stayed there for lour days. Then we went back to the rocks for another day and night, waiting for a wind to take us out. At last the wind favoured us, and we rounded the Heads. \v e made the Molyneux day the same day, but had to lie oft in the bay tilt morning, the wind not being favourable tor landing. Hero I was welcomed by ihe Maori Princess, Makariri, who plunged into the waves, took my baby, and carried him ashore. On landing we pitched a tent, which was our home for two montns, but 'the children were so tormented by sandflies that we removed some distance away from the beach to the house oi a friend till my husband built a whare lor us, and we settled down in our new home and began pioneer life in earnest.’ Another instance of the noble spirit displayed bv the pioneer women is quoted in Mr Wilson’s “Reminiscences, ' and is deserving of repetition. One woman settled in one of the most fertile places, and her beautiful home was the resting place of many a weary traveller, who was always made welcome, to that hospitable house, no matter how many came or bow often she spread a repast during the day. Sometimes, when she required to leave home for a day, the table was spread with a comfortable meal, and on it was placed a slip of naper on which was written : “Stranger, help thyscll. ' The door was fastened on the outside, so that anyone arriving in her absence might enter and be refreshed. Her example, in the way she worked, and her brave, patient spirit under difficulties, inspired many a woman to bear up mider hardship and discouragement little known by the later generation. She was well educated and refined, yet she patiently took up the work she had come to do, though it often proved heavy and sometimes distasteful.