IN THE REALM OF DRESS.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 18293, 9 July 1921, Page 13

IN THE REALM OF DRESS.

MILITARY HISTORY AMD STATELY

GOWNS.

“CTNTRA’S” DELIGHTFUL HOME

(From Our Own Corresi'ONDENT.)

LONDON, May 13.

Admiral's House is one oi tho most deugntfLilly situated of Hampstead s many attractive and interesting homes. It was built in tho era of George HI, and it was twice a subject for pictorial record by Constable. Its present owners, the Hon. J. W. Fortescno and Mrs Fortescue, are highly gifted people, well known in social circles.

Mr Fortescue, who was at Government House with Sir William Jervois, still entertains very pleasant recollections of Now Zealand and all its attractions, and he well remembers many of tho people whom he used then to know. In appearance he is still lithe and active, keen and and ho is, of course, a charming host. For a long while ho has been Librarian at Windsor Castle, and in addition to these duties he is still assiduously at work on that groat military record that will prove of inestimable value to every student when complete—The History of the British Army. This work involves a tremendous amount of studious research, which, to its compiler, is a labour ot love. Many times over the public has been let into the confidence that the emoluments attaching to this gargantuan undertaking are very small. In tnese days one'cannot live on moans that once were ample, and it does immense credit to Mrs Fortescue that the happy inspiration should have come to her to use her unusually well developed artistic gifts in a very special way—she has turned herself into a woman ot business, and her special qualifications are becoming widely recognised. She is quite a young woman, cheerful, and vivacious, ind ot charming personality. As “Lintra’’ she is gathering round herself at Admiral’s House a now clientele who will undoubtedly remain faithful adherents. “Cinlra” started in quite a modest way with objects U’arts in London, but developments were rapid, and now she is the designer of tho mo*t gorgeous and attractive clothes, her range including everything that is indispensable to a fashionable woman —from dainty “undies” to the most sumptuous gowns and wraps for Court, for the races, for dances, for, receptions, for the boudoir, and she does not omit from her repertoire the quite simple frocks which are so attractive on the river and for tennis wear. Tho other day Mr and Mrs Fortescue entertained a number of guests at their Hampstead home, where, one feels sure, old friends of Now Zealand days will find a oordial welcome —tho object being that visitors should see some of Cintra’s “creations.” Tasteful originality characterises them all. and many of tho designs owe their inspiration to old Masters. Mr Fortescuc's work naturally allows access to rate old pictures and prints, and Cintrn, who has been a good deal abroad, has a natural talent for adapting the most attractive features of ancient modes to the modern needs, with highly effective results. Each design is quite an individual one, and she is very fond of artistically draped effects, which are attained with the utmost simplicity and with a minimum of fastening—the days of complicated fastenings are absolutely over.

RICH FABRICS. Most of (lie materials used come from Italy, and Cintra has roll upon roll of most wondrous brocades of the richest colour schemes, as well as Zcnaolini taffetas and satin-backed moires that resolutely refuse to l>o crushed. They can bo crumpled up in tho moat, cruel and drastic way, hut they decline to show crease or crack; therefore they are ideal for anyone travelling with a limited amount of luggage. Every type of dress has all its requisite etceteras, all of which arc designed and made at Admiral’s House. Every evening dress, for instance, is accompanied by a special hairbandeau; every kind of garment (hat is enhanced by a girdle has one that is not like anybody olse’e, for it is made entirely by (ho workers at Hampstead. Mr Fortescuc does not admit that he is in any way concerned with his wife's department, but it was quite evident that Ids critical interest in all the models as thev wore seen on tho graceful mannequins—some of whom were actresses—was very real, and one cannot help feeling that his opinion and suggestion are sometimes sought. With pride ho took me on arrival to the room where all the dresses and their del ails were displayed, and with pride lie showed me at the same time a remarkably well preserved piece of needlework in a frame, a country map of England, worked by liis grandmother in 1797. Mr Fortcscue is collecting prints of British generals, and of these ho at present ’has about 150, so that, as may he readily imagined, tho house is full of interesting features of many kinds. These include a captair’s cabin and a quarter deck with guns which were left as a relic by the old Admiral who once lived there and after whom the house is called. WEIRD AND WONDERFUL.

If New Zealanders look up Cintra they will lie charmed by what is called “The Cave’’—a windowlcss apartment, which, when lighted up, scintillates with rolls of and silver richly brocaded fabrics (tIUMO must bo miles of material here), model evening wraps, the most sumptuous

down cushions conceivable made of every possible shape, size, and colour; brocaded hangings that should be used for curtains. Hero the effects necessary in the choice of evening materials are obtained amid a lichly ornate environment that makes the cave scene in “Chu Chin Chow” look dull and poor by comparison. Wondrous ornaments, too, are arranged on a monster floor cushion, and one soon is at a loss for adjectives that do justice to the gorgeous display. HOME OF THE MODELS.

One cannot deal in detail with all the 26 models shown on the mannequins. Briefly, they wore for every conceivable social occasion. Delightful results were achieved in the case of the more simple frocks by the use of organdie muslin—an erstwhile indispensable material that is now the latest in Paris. One of these, in lichen green, had ladder-loops of inch-wide white organdie-miisliii-ribbou with picot. edge as trim ruing, and the very pleasing effect was enhanced by a wide sash swathing of cherrycoloured zenzolini silk, and a picture bonnet of green rush-straw with cherry ribbons. Nettling anywhere could well nave been, rnoie strikingly original than an Ascot gown of black satin beaute with an orange underskirt, of the finest velvety cloth. With it was worn an orange-coloured cavalier cape lined with black satin, a large black picture hat with drooping brim, and an Empire stick was carried. Delightfully simple was a race dress of ecru burano lace and georgette. Burano lace has a wide square open mesh (like filet many times magnified) and embroidered with handsome bold patterning. In the becoming cream tint of an opening magnolia was a dress of this burano lace, worn over kilted georgette to tone, and lightly touched with cau-de-nil; over it was worn a drap of eau-de-ml duvetyii gauged at the waistline and lined and faced with magnolia zenzolini silk; as displayed by an attractive girl it was a great success. A majestic dress lor evening consisted of a tunic of amber and silver brocade over a petticoat of silver lace, lifted at one side. 1 here were no sleeves —it is rather a pity that so many of the evening dresses are absolutely without any kind of sleeve or even the softening suggestion of one —but from the shoulders fell long chains of clear amber beads. In striking contrast was a Court gown of black jetted net with a fishtail train of Benares beaten gold, veiled with a transparent train of black tulle. Although what were once regulation trains for Court presentatioiis are not now worn, the dress may have a moderate train drapery of its own, generally it is of something ethereal and. transparent. It wag evident that a pet model of the creator was a dress of nioussoline de sqio. of green veiled with blue, and trimmed with hand-painted shells of various kinds in pink, green, and geld. The shells were embroidered on to the waistbelt, and fell with girdle ends at one side. They outlined the neck, and they were the chief feature in a specially becoming hair ornament, worn low on the brow. Exclamations of wonder greeted a marvellous wrap of black velvet brocaded with immense gold mons; as a matter of lact, the real foundation of the fabric seemed to be gold tissue, with iho velvet woven upon it; anyhow, the moons wore wonderful, and this ylqak had a useful cellar of an easy Medici lino which could ho turned up or down at any angle. Generally it may be said that Ciiitra avoids extremes —her necks are not too low, her skirls are of a good and becoming length, and they are not skimpy. As tor the millinery, the is responsible for all that as well. Most of her shapes are largo and shady and of vivid colours for wearing with light frocks; but of course, no one can ever make a mistake by choosing a good black hat, and she had these as well. Very little trimming was characteristic of all her millinery. It would be a groat omission not to mention the evening domino of zenzolini taffetas. It. is like a long Red-Riding-Hood wrap, and when the hood is not on the head it forms a dainty finish at the back. The cloak is long, simple, circular, and allenveloping, and it is altogether too fascinating. On a pretty girl, cf course, it becomes additionally “fetching.” It is a detail for inclusion in up-to-date trousseaux, and in yellow it is a first favourite.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS. Apparently there is nothing in the decorative scheme of a house that can go awry under Cintra’s aegis. She makes every kind and shape of cushion —the newest is a Hugh flat round one for the floor, ornamented with bunches of padded grapes; bedspread, lampshade, curtain and portiere drapery. Jduch of the choice furniture in the house has come from Portugal, to which country, by the way, the name Ointra belongs. A charming detail that yon want to pick up and make off with is the hearth, broom —not an ordinary-look-ing one by any means, for it lias been absolutely transformed into a thing of beauty and a joy for ever. The fine camelhair is hidden beneath a fringe of bullion, and all tho rest of it is covered with brocade, overwound with pretty ribbon—a natty notion and a pleasing one; it is just one of those little simple ideas that you would expect everybody to think of; Yet no olio previously seems to have done. These, brooms are, of course, only appropriate in suitable surroundings, and while they are more ornamental than useful, they stilt are a boon for light use. It had been arranged that tho display of frocks should be made in flagged rosegarden, which is backed by a nigh ornamental terrace wall and has a large green lawn in the distance. However, it was partly an alfresco function, despite Hie heavy showers,' because a number of the guests wore under the shelter of the glass vinotrained loggia, and the parade was an indoor as well as an outdoor one.

USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL. A girl on Tier own and in evening dress on route to a dance finds it very tiresome to carry money, yet in London one must always be thus equipped, and generally it is carried in a handbag—then, what is ultimately to become of the bag? A man with his generous pocket space is much to be envied. However, in an attempt to solve the problem, a vex*y attractive trifle lias been devised, and so delighted was Queen Maud of Norway with this original novelty that she returned home last time .with a supply for presents. A large velvet flower or bunch of flowers is still liked for evening wear, fixed into the waist belt or worn on the corsage, yet how many of the unitiated would suspect that behind this garniture there may be a purse? Yet there it is, a.rprctty thing in silk or satin, with a gilt frame. It is equipped at the back with two strong safety pins for attachment to tho chosen position, end it opens from the top, so that entrance is easily accessible, and there is room, too, lor an evening handkerchief. Across the middle of the back, in addition to the pins, there is a ribbon strap, and if the user likes she can. by thrusting three fingers of her left hand underneath this ribbon, carry tho floral ornament on the back of her hand, and as she dances the effect is decidedly fetching. The usual flower is a rose or a large velvet clematis, but a bunch of Parma violets does excellently, too, to cover the purse, which, of course, is made of a, piece of silk or satin that matches the flower. Up to the present there is only one store in London where these useful and beautiful dress garnitures can be bought, and the price of the cheapest—a bunch of dark violets—is 255. But tho idea has been copied in a smaller way. Tho possibility of wearing the flower on the hand seems to have suggested the idea, why not a ribbon bracelet, with a wee purse on it instead of a watch. This wrist-pouch, however, is not for money, but for the powder-puff, and the puff—so generally used nowadays—reposes in private at the back of the half-opened rose or the pansy that so daintily finishes off the wrist. The ” suggestion of a watch is emphasised when the strap consists of n narrow band of black moire, for so many of the most expensive wrist-watches are thus mounted.