WHAT I SAW AT THE BRITISH FRONT.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 17216, 19 January 1918, Page 8

WHAT I SAW AT THE BRITISH FRONT.

Bv William Henrt Marstox. (Secretary of the Empire Press Union.)

LONDON, November, 1917.

By tho courteous influence of the Foreign Office 1 was recently enabled to bo a guest at General Headquarters in Franco on a memorable four days' visit to the sceno of military operations, which, in ever- increasing intensity, is absorbing't,he whole interest and energies of tho British. Umpire.

In the eompanv of a number of American newspaper correspondents and literary men I had a brief opportunity of becoming

acquainted with my companions when our boat train quickly reached tho Channel coast. At the quayside station passports were examined, and for the firet time wo began to feel we wore under scrutiny. As an example, however, of the kindly consideration of tho military officials, the per-

sons travelling to France who were given precedence in the somewhat tedious examination of papers were tho relatives going t.<> see wounded soldiers. That concluded, our party immediately passed through tho office arid stepped oil 1 board. A WAR-TIME CHANNEL CROSSING. Quickly we saw evidence that tho trip might have its excitements.' The Channel steamer, since my last visit before the war, had received a complete change of colour to a neutral grey; generals, staff officers, and khaki-clad men generally predominated, and iilebuoy hariwss to tic round the chest and back lay around for passengers to lit on. It was a calm evening as the first two transports, crowded with soldiers, loosed their moorings, and tho " Tammies," evidently new drafts, raised cheers and sang as they went ahead, our boat slowly following. Soon we noticed our watchful guardians ahead, keenly observant for an enemy periscope. The Channel is swept daily for floating mines, and it is a tribute to the efficiency of our Grand Fleet that thev have not lost a transport on • tho Folkestone-Boulogne route. Naturally we proceeded slowly and cautiously, changing our position from line-ahead to two abreast

according to the signals received. As it was getting dusk wo could see the outline of the French coast. Going into port stern first, one observed dim figures on the pier, and crowds of soldiers off duty leaning over the sides were singing as ono would hear crowds on a Bank Holiday night in England, "Are Wo Downhearted?" to the refrain of a hymn. One's mind went back to tho accounts of the landing of our first army in that eventful August of 1914, and imagined tho troops then marching off to the sons: of 'It's a Long, Long Way to Tipperary.

Wo had by this time lined up near one of the cabin doors for our passports to bo examined by the military and French authorities who came on board.. Again there cajne the dull, heavy inquiry, "Any relatives to see the wounded?" Then, "Are there any diplomatic visitors? Are these gentlemen here?"—mentioning- our names. At last "we were over the side and our baggage had been transferred to the motor cars in waiting. Now our military hosts warmly welcomed us, and the major in charge of the American chateau to which we were bound and his assistants, a captain and two Houtonants, entertained us to dinner. Shortly before 10 o'clock we entered our ears and quickly left the town behind. Through the keen air and darkness we raced, to as yet an unknown destination, somewhere in France, until I rubbed my eyes and wondered whether it was* a dream. After about an hour we reached a quiet spot among the trees, and a large building loomed before us, with a drawbridge and a moat filled with water. Soon we were inside the cosy and dimly-lit smoking room of the thirteenth century feudal oliateau, -with its great carved stone fireplace, and by an open hearth, partaking of stimulants after our keen ride, meanwhile becoming on the friendliest terms with our hosts. INSPECTION OF BIG GUNS. After breakfast next morning the party was shown by an elaborate contour map in the groat entrance hall the district to which we were going. By 9.30 the motor cars were heard whirring outside, and w© were quickly and patienlly instructed in the use of the gas mask and how to get it on expeditiously, and tin hate woro handed to us. These preliminaries accomplished, soon we were threading our way out of the grounds and lacing through villages and towns. The countryside for a portion of our journey looked peaceful enough, and the com was stacked ready for gathering in. One saw the old hard-working and frugal French farmer and his grandsons and women folk at work in the fields, all the younger men being a", the war. The neat, compact little farms on the roadside, with the beans hanging out to dry under the eaves for the winter store, chickens and ducks wandering about, and some little children. But everywhere were evidences of the military control Our cars were stopped occasionally and our passports examined by English and French sentries. At one part of the route we saw an almost endless procession of transport on the march from one part of the lino to another. They had their field krtchens smoking away, each cooking the men's food and supplying sufficient for 250 men when they halted. A SNIPING SCHOOL: TRAINING THE PORTUGUESE. We spent an hour or so inspecting the latest methods of training the infantry of our smallest ally. Under the able guidance of the colonel in charge, who, by the way, would be roost familiar to readers as a well-known magazine writer and. author, we were conducted round. He told us that the Portuguese were very keen, and, although the language difficulty presented obstacles, by means of signs, diagrams, and a mutual understanding, the men wero quick to learn. Wo saw the little museum hut. where various curiosities are kept, testifying to the ingenuity of the pupils. A fixed rifle stand, for instance, where a- rifle on a pivot may be moved round within a certain range of fire and blazed across the 'trenches during the night. We also tried on the new sniper's helmet, which is higher and heavier than our ordinary "soup-plate" tin hat, and hue a thick protective front shield. Some German sacking was observed, the strands of which were curiously made of twisted paper, but to all appearances as strong as and similar to an ordinary sack. Every encouragement is given to the men to exercise their ingenuity, and a sniping dug-out and observation post was shown as an example of one roan's work. An object of interest was explained which I had not seen before, which is used for the purpose of locating a sniper. In the trenches was an exact imitation. o£ the upper part of a " Tommy," painted khaki colour, with a cigarette in his mouth. From a distance one of our party aimed at and hit the dummy figure, as it bobbed up on its movable stand. On arrival at the trench we could see on the figure where the bullet had hit and the angle it had 'taken through the body.

Hero one observes all the methods of eecretion and concealment known under tho goneric term of "camouflage." As certain animals and insects are provided by Nature with neutral colouring, such as, for instance. tho leaf-insect, whose colour merges into the leaf, and the hare or rabbit with its brown coat, a source of concealment and protection against their enemies, so man in modern warfare is endeavouring, as far as possible, to make himself invisible. Our Allies, who are fast becoming expert snipers, were for our instruction go effectually hidden in the hollows of the ground, amongst the bracken, or in a hollow treo trunk, that not a trace could bo observed until they were signalled to come out and disclose themselves.

Wo now resumed our journey. Putting on our helmets and adjusting gas masks, we climbed _ the hillside. Evidences here there were in plenty of bombardment and former Herman dug-outs, 'this position having at the start of the war been in tho hands of tho enemy. From the summit could be scon to the left, in the far distance, Ypros, with Dickebush hike nearer straight in front in tho distance was Commines. and to tho right Messtnes. Wytschaeto Ridge lay in tho middle distance, and tho little village, sorely battered and bomK'urlod, lay at tho foot of tho hill. Evidently our airmen wcro busy, for wo could observe a swarm of our aeroplanes break ant of tho clouds on .their return from bombing tho German lines, combats taking ptaco in tho air and anti-aircraft guns at. work. The result of their efforts was apparent by hugo clouds of smoko behind the German lines, whero evidently tho ammunition dumps and other inflammable material had been hit and was on fire. From our linos nov. r slowly ascended the clumsy-lotking sausage balloons used for observation.

Wo threated our way down the hill, and proceeded through the village to Wytschaete Ridge, a slight riso of ground. Here is a scone of desolation, trees rooted tip, d«?p shell holes, and torn wire entanglements. Labour battalions were at work repairing the roads and constructing light railways. We observed the great craters, n ot.il>! v tho famous Wytschaete crater, a great yawning chasm, and were then conducted to a telephone dug-out where there were three men, including the commander, with telephone

instruments and apparatus, deep in tha ground in a cramped little epace away from light and fresh air, -\yith a little candle burning dimly. The commander led us a short distance away to the guns, all hidden beneath camouflage netting for the purpose of concealment. Having quickly observed the sky and said to a gunner, " Whero'6 that Bosche aeroplane?" he garve orders to firet. We put our lingers to our ears and saw a groat flash and hoard a roar. These guns were firing at 8500 yards. Their capacity, however, is about 15,0b0 yards, and they are high velocity guns. After giving orders for two more guns to bo fired, the commander led us away, and told us that, though there was nothing much going r>n then, at times it was a terrible place, and he conld not lcavo his dug-out for hours to Ij© relieved.

Having bid good-bye to this hard-worked and gallant gentleman, wo regained our cars and finished an instructive day, having l by tho time wo reached home covered some 90odd miles, our journey having taken na through Theronnc. Linghara. Aire, Steervbecke, Morbeckc, HazebroTick,' Strazeel,. Bailleul, Locre, just across the Belgian frontier.