NOTES OF THE LUNA TRIP.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 3764, 28 February 1874, Page 2

NOTES OF THE LUNA TRIP.

[by a correspondent.]

INTRODUCTORY. When I first sat down to write some notes of the Luna's trip, I was forcibly reminded of an incident in coasting along Stewart's Island many years ago. The coast line was being closely scrutinised by several on the poop of the ship I was in, and not two out of the six could agree as to the appearance of the land or as to the capabilities of the soil. And why was this? Because not two looked at the land from the same point of view. And so in giving short notes on the Luna's trip, I fear that I must fail in doing more than picturing the trip from my point of view. To be a proper observer, or rather a correct descriptive writer, one ought to have all senses engaged, so that he might jot down what he saw, what he felt, what he smelt, and what he heard. I cannot do all this. Perhaps if I noted down all I heard it would be the most interesting thing I could pen, for the reader of these notes would have a pre-Raphaelite picture of life aboard a sightseeing expedition. But to the trip. THE START. A start was made, and we soon cleared the Heads. There was a slight swell on the sea—a swell ominous to some, and creating doubt in the minds of others. One, on being asked if he were sea-sick, replied, looking at the rolling steamer, that he sometimes was, but he did not know how he would be,

nevertheless, he was not going to ''holler till he was out of the wood." A matter-of-fact listener, whose pale face showed that he at all events had felt the tumbling and the rolling—said with a faint smile that the Luma was an iron ship, and then walked forward. It was now past eight, and to bed most went—some were sick, and some seemed worse than sick, for terror besides stomach derangement, was depicted in their countenances. Before going to sleep, I was struck when I listened and joined in the conversation, with how little matter conversation usually consisted. There was nothing to talk about, and yet we could not sit like "dummies," — what better than to discuss the qualities of the beer of rival breweries ? And yet, when Punch photographs as it were the tittle-tattle of the gentler sex, how silly it seems, and how men wonder that the ladies sannot find something sensible to talk about. And yet, were I to jot down the tittle-tattle of us passengers, I fear none of us would care to have our names mentioned as the conversers. Sleep came, and to some it was a balmy sleep; and others the passage of Scripture in which the wicked are represented as a troubled sea came to their minds as the example most forcible of the existence of turmoil. THE NUGGETS. About six we came to an anchor inside the Nuggets, and some at once landed and climbed the hill and inspected the lighthouse with its dioptric light and fine view. Unfortunately for the view, it was a hazy morning, and the distant Clutha was enveloped in a fog. Nevertheless the view was grand, and one of the cliffs was particularly admired. Those who had not been much at the sea shore were peculiarly struck with it, and the geological in the party talked of lateral pressure which had forced the layers to a perpendicular shape. Empty oil tins were put on board and another start was made, and this time the wreck of the Surat reached. The roughest tumbling was just before reaching Catlin's Bay. There were a few pale faces on the poop, and one, who seemed to suffer most, thought aloud and said: —"I think the Chinese are right — the soul is situated in the stomach; for I am unfit to read or to think, and all because my stomach seems twisted." There was no reply. Whether it was that the listeners were Cartesians, and thought the location in the "pineal gland" was well settled, or whether those present imagined that Ferrier's researches left the location of the soul a moot point, and that the stomach was as good as any other, I know not. THE SURAT. When we arrived at the Surat we saw that the water was breaking over the deck; the poop was crushed in, and the lights in tho cabin open. The lower masts were still standing, but the picture was a complete one of desolation. It being Sunday, and, perhaps, the heaviness of the swell as well, prevented much being done. We landed one of our passengers at Catlin's River, and then we proceeded on our way to DOG ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE, we reached about nine at night. At ten the boat that had been landed had not returned, and some of us went to bed; others however remained to see the Bluff, for we had to land mails, &c, there. THE BLUFF. We reached the Bluff shortly after eleven, and little was to be seen and less was observed. We remained at the Bluff a very short time, for the business of the Marine Department had to be attended to—and to Captain Johnson and Mr Wilson the trip was business. CENTRE ISLAND. To Centre Island then our course was steered, and we got there at six. At once the representatives of the Marine Department and some of the passengers landed, whilst others, bent on fishing, used tackle, with one blue cod as the result of an hour's work. At the east side of Centre Island there is a beautiful sandy beach, at which the landing was easy, and an inspection of the island was not difficult, as there had been clearings and cattle tracks. The island is about 500 or 600 acres in extent, and seems well stocked -for there are about twenty head of cattle, besides quite a lot of sheep. There is a house on the island, and a small garden, with turnips, cabbage, &c. ; there is also a good stock-yard, and a small cattleshed. It is, therefore, an inhabited islet. Its highest peak is about 200 feet, and if the new Foveaux Strait light is placed on the Southland side of the Strait, Centre Island will be the site chosen. Many imagine, however, that the new light should be on the south side of the Strait; thence we left Centre Island, to visit the points near the northwest of Stewart's Island for the site. The preference for the south side is based on the fact that there are not any sunken rocks in the way of the navigator. Besides, the Dog Island is on the other side, and between two such lights, bearings could be got that would enlighten the hesitating sailor captain. We steered across the Strait, making a little to the westward of the White Rocks, which lie about a mile from the shore, and then coasted down to Rugged Point and Rugged Island. Here Captain Johnson, and Mr Wilson, and Captain Hutton left us, and we went on our way to CODFISH ISLAND. Codfish Island is from 5000 to 6000 acres in extent. There is on its east side a fine white sandy beach, about a mile in length, with a small stream meandering through a flat at the back of the sandhills, falling into the sea at its northern end. Near the beach are many graves. Some are fenced in with short pieces of mapu ; one with properlyfashioned and planed palings. Two pieces of board remain at the heads of the graves ; but, alas, for the human and the perishable ! nothing intelligible can be deciphered on any of them. "J. N." is all that can be made out on one of them. A noted Maori is said to be buried here. The bay is called Sealers'' Bay, and that it has been the resort of whites may be seen from the fact that little cleared patches are, where damp, overgrown with "mint." The bush is black and white birch, with the graceful rimu relieving its colour. Sketches in pencil have been made by one of our party, who is no mean artist, and now progress has to rear its head, for a photographic apparatus was erected at the north end of Sealers' Bay. The Luna in the distance, with the Red Head, with its grand red-coloured rocks and crags partially covered with shrub, in the far background. In the fore were some standing on the sand. The bay is a beautiful one, and is well sheltered. Indeed she only wind that can affect it is that from the north and west, and even from that quarter the sea cannot be heavy. When crossing over to the Codfish Island I was so amused at the remedy suggested for overcoming disaffected constituents, that for the guidance of our politicians and Executive I transcribe it. Says one: "They're wanting a bridge for —" "Well, I expect," replied another, "the next proposal will bo for a railway across Codfish Island! But I can tell you what to do with these fellows: Buy 'em. out; buy 'em out ! If we want a road here, or a bridge there, the Government should buy 'em out. It would be far cheaper, believe me, for I can assure you that they are building bridges that a solitary bullock will not cross once in six months. Buy 'em out, say I." From the bush in Codfish Island the notes of the tui, and the chirruping of the parroquet were heard ; so Codfish Island is a habitat to some, aud if the doctrine of the transmigration of souls was not heretical, and hence absurd, I do not know whether, were I wicked and deserving of punishment, I would not prefer Codfish Islet, and the life of the tui there, to some other places to which the impenitent are doomed. But the tui wears "bands," and according to the "change of bodies" dogma, I suppose only parsons can dwell in the tuis. The beach was so tempting, that, dread of sharks not withstanding, some enjoyed a bathe, others went a-fishing, and the rock-cod were so numerous that the hauling up of fish became monotonous and soon about eighty were caught. It was now afternoon, and our course was directed back to Rugged Point. RUGGED ISLAND. It well deserves the name, for there are seven or eight rugged, jagged islets standing off the point. Capt. Johnson was now picked up, and it was debated by the knowing or nautical passengers on board, whether the largest of the Rugged Islands would do for a site or not, as the height was from 400 to 500 feet. No other point, however, seems suitable. Another difficulty that will be met with is the getting of supplies into the Islet, for, with a heavy swell the landing would be difficult. Still, some of the lighthouses on the East Coast of Scotland are more difficult of access, and with a steamer like the Luna, and a captain like Capt. Fairchild, going round every month, I do not see what difficulty there need be. The other drawback is the height, and the liability to fogs. This, I think, will be the greatest, if such a point as the Rugged Islet

is is subject to fog. Some of our party had collected crustaceans, beetles, patellas, &c., which, with the rock cod and the trumpeter, was a little museum for our afternoon's inspection. We steamed on for PORT WILLIAM, the point where the Immigration Barracks are located, and the site of one of the special settlements. We had just anchored when two of the Shetlanders, named James Harper and Alexander Young, came off in a small boat. Port William is a beautiful bay, completely land-locked. No wind or sea can disturb its nice sandy beach. Thick bush comes down to tho water's edge, and the vegetation is rank and close. Some of us went ashore and visited the settlement. There are four families located at the head of the bay. There are, first, Captain Greig, who is the Government representative in the Island ; Mr Cross, who has been at Port William for about four or five years ; Mr Gilbertson, and wife and baby; and Mr Paul Smith and family, who have been about nine months on Stewart's Island; Mr Young, who came to the Island at the same time ; and lastly, Mr Harper, who has been about three months there. All, except Mr Cross and Capt. Greig, are Shetlanders, and all from the south of Shetland. Mr Gilbertson has been sailing with Mr Cross, in a small cutter, and engaged in oystering. He is at present suffering from gumboil, and hence is detained at home, Mr Cross being at Paterson's Inlet. Mr Smith is on a trip to Lyttelton in a vessel hailing from the Bluff. Mr Harper and Mr Young have been fishing, and have cleared some land for themselves, and some for Capt. Greig. Mr Smith has a hut, erected a house, and has cleared about half-an-acre. Mr Gilbertson's house is also nearly erected, and it is a substantial erection, and built by himself. As one of the passengers remarked, it is a far better house than many of the early Wellington or Dunedin settlers had. Both Mr Harper and Mr Young have also cleared patches Mr Harper had also planted potatoes, but, unfortunately for the "tubers," Mr Smith had a cow which had been sold by the people at Half-moon Bay because of her "fencing," or rather jumping proclivities, and Mr Harper's potatoes were sacrificed. Impounding Ordinances are unknown, and an action for trespass would be a too advanced proceeding for such a young settlement. But still, some things are growing. I saw peas, potatoes, lettuce, currants, parsnips, cabbage, turnips, and carrots. And what s' owed that civilization had also here raised her head was the growth of flowers. The climbing honeysuckle with its fragrant perfume, brought back one's recollections of English cottages. and English lanes, and this was a token to the visitor that a time will come when the crimson rata will be unknown, and the flowering trees and shrubs of Europe take its place. Mr Cross, as the oldest settler, has a nice house and a fine garden. He has about a couple of acres of potatoes, and what I admired was the walk through the bush from the back of his house. By it we ascended the top of the hill, and had a splendid view of the distant Bluff. Ruapuke, Dog lsland Lighthouse, and mainland of Southland. When gazing at the Bluff, and after debating about whether a ship was in sight or not, a "weka" peeped out from the fern, and one of the settlers who accompanied us began to whistle to it, and the weka showed by its action that as yet there has been no hereditary transmission of terror of man, for the weka came nearer, and peeped through the fern at the whistler. I fear the young wekas will soon know better, for as a reward of its curiosity and sociable nature, the whistler, armed with a stick, struck at its head, but happily with no effect. The weka escaped, aud perhaps it will relate to its mates how its sociability was rewarded by a blow ! And this is man's lesson to animals! In descending the hill a solitary owl—the "more pork"—watched us from a branch, and never disturbed itself by flight until a missile was aimed at its head. THE IMMIGRATION BARRACKS. We visited the barracks, where at present Mr Harper, Mr Young, and Captain Greig reside. The barracks could accommodate a large number of people, but as descriptions of the building have already been given I need not repeat the details here. I saw evidences of Shetland in the house furniture. Here in one comer was a spinningwheel, and there a pair of "rivelins." What these are let the uninitiated learn. We were toll as follows: —They were pieces of bullock hide, salted and dried, and made into sandals. On the beach was the skeleton of a black fish, and that, with the exception of the dried blue cod, were the only evidences of this being a fishing settlement. THE SPECIAL SETTLEMENT. I must now speak of the future and of the present drawbacks of this infantile special settlement, and first of the FISH. Fish abound—blue cod and trumpeter, oysters and cray fish, are equally plenty— whilst grouper outside, skate or ray, and flounders in the bay, were frequently caught. Curing is, however, difficult. The fish is too fat, too rich, and the knack of curing has not yet been learned. Still, this ought not to stand in the way. We import preserved fish of all kinds, and preserved oysters sell at a shilling a dozen. Why not start a preserving establishment at Stewart's Island— there is a legitimate enterprise for publicspirited capitalists and for a public company — fish abundant and everything handy, and within sixteen miles of usual steam communication. Was ever a place better situated? At present, not only is there the difficulty of curing, but there is also tho greater difficulty of disposing of the cured article. I was shown sale notes of the return of eight hundred weight of smoked fish, sent to Melbourne, and the net returns were only pme pound apiece to four men—four pound for all the trouble. This cannot pay. As a consequence, some of the men, tempted with high wages, have gone to the Bluff and some to Invercargill, and to other places of Southland. Others, who intended to settle, hearing of the poor returns, have not landed at Port William at all. But even those who have left look back to Port William, and as I was assured will hereafter make it their home. It is a beautiful place— no harbour better — healthy, as the rosy cheeks and happy expression of the little ones showed ; and with a market for their fish the Shetlanders have a hope of bettering themselves. I also think that the dried smoked cod I saw would find a ready market in Dunedin, and I hope some enterprising fishmonger will send an order to Stewart's Island for some hundreds of them. LAND TENURE. There has been another even more serious drawback to the settlement, and that is the uncertainty that hangs over all their labours on the land. As one of them said to me— "I am clearing land, but my heart is not in it, for I do not know whether I will get the piece I clear or not." There has been no survey, nor were the settlers to survey it themselves, nor have they any guarantee but what their clearances may not be seized. This is worse than a tenant-at-will system. The land is heavily timbered, and requires great exertion to get a clearing made, and if a man's heart is not in his work, the iron wood will be unfilled, and the rimu be left lord of the forest. PROSPECTS OF THE SETTLEMENT. Here, then, are the main drawbacks to the settlers : the want, at present, of a ready market for their fish ; and second, the uncertainty attending the possession of their land. What hope is there for the future ? I think there are good prospects in store. Who can look at Port William, at its land-locked bay, with deep water and excellent anchorage, its heavy timber, its fine climate, its abundant supply of fish, and not say that it at some no distant date will be, not a mere favourite resort for the excursionist, but also the home of thrifty men? Aid may be required, as here there is no capitalist crying for surplus labour, no Government roads, no railways, and no Government works ; but still there is a future for Port William. The two things needed at present I have mentioned, and the question may be asked—should the Government do aught ? Some, whenever Government aid is talked about, at once reply, " You will destroy the settlers' self reliance if the Government interferes." To this class I would say, what settlement in New Zealand has not had the benefit of Government interference ? The early settlers in Nelson had road-making to do two or three days in the week, and to attend to their farms during the remainder of the time. And were these settlers injured by the works provided for them by the New Zealand Company ? The answer is given by going amongst some of the well-to-do fanners of Nelson, and seeing their possessions. In Wellington, the need of some employment for the new settlers is also seen, and hence the Scandinavians are employed in road-making. So were road-making part of the year, for two or four months, given to the special settlers, I

am certain that within a year or two the settlement would have such a start that any fear of its future would be removed. Not that even without such aid there is much fear. Once the proper and best way of preserving aud curing fish is known and the land laid out, the settlement will start without further aid. To enable it to do this, I think some person well skilled in smoking fish might be employed by the Government for a few months to show the settlers the best mode of curing. I believe the cost would be nil, for the settlers would agree— provided the fish were saleable—to pay the curer a price for his labour. Here, then, is one legitimate aid the Government ought to give. Another is to fix in some way the plot of land to which each settler is entitled. These two things accomplished, the settlement would have an impetus given to it. But even if these and all Government aids are withheld, I am still sanguine of Port William. The time will come when fresh fish from the Bluff can be conveyed expeditiously and cheaply by railway inland and to Dunedin and farther. Then will fishing pay. Some who have left the settlement— tempted by the high wages in Southland— see this and speak of returning ; and, as one of our party remarked, the men are intelligent. Indeed, one by his naming of the trees, his acquaintance with the birds, his knowledge of the rocks, and of the elepth of water, led me to ask — "How long have you been here?" and to the surprise of those listening to the conversation, the answer was— "Oh, about eight months." One who could obtain the information he has done within that time will not be discomforted by the exigencies of colonial life. One does feel sad, no doubt, when he hears a fisherman saying — "We only catch fish sufficient for ourselves to eat," and that is one in half-an-hour; and this the more when he thinks of the dangers and difficulties of the calling in other countries — such dangers, that the words of the song are not an exaggeration, that the fish have really "the lives o' men" for their price. The time will come, however, when the fish will be scarcer, and then will also come different methods of fishing, with differently constructed boats to those now in use. One of the Shetlanders stated they had come from the Bluff in their whale-boat in "coorse wether," and "she did very well, but shipped a lot o' water ;" and then he concluded, "Ah, there naething lik a sax herrin." The boat of his native islands, fashioned after the yawl of the Norwegians, is fitted for sea, and for storms, the heavy whale-boat, neither in shape nor lightness, is so well adapted for heavy weather. I have spoken so much of Port William, that I have not much space left to jot down aught about Paterson's Inlet or of HALF-MOON BAY. ln the last-named place there are some German settlers, and some Orkney and Shetland men. There the settlement has had a start. You see the cows wandering about, and the small garden patch in a better state of cultivation ; and the Orkney and Shetlanders have cutters, from S tons to 20, with which the oystering is done, and the season's sealing is prosecnted. These cutters give, I heard, fair returns for the outlay. Their building is, however, none of the strongest; the nails fastening the boards, instead of having a head made over the rivet, being in some instances only doubled. Good knees are plentiful, however, and these are held with long iron wood "travels." When the settlers get more capital, they will provide themselves with more substantial cutters. At present the cost is heavy, a good new cutter costing the purchaser about £200. One Shetlander from Yell has been resident at Half Moon for some years, and he has built cutters and schooners, and is still engaged in ship building. The Margaret Scollay was built by him. He is noted as a pushing, daring settler, and has done well. Others are following in his footsteps, and Stewart's Island may hereafter be looked upon as the Northern Islands have been regarded in Britain—as a nursery for seamen. And if ever New Zealamd rises to any maritime position, Stewart's Island will rise in importance, for here is splendiel ship-building timber and young seamen, and splendid harbours. What would not Taranaki, or Oamaru, or Timaru give for Port William. It woidd be cheap at two millions. SCENERY. Of tho scenery I do not intend to speak. Those who have seen the ever-varying shades of the New Zealand bush, who have observed the deep azure of the ocean, and the white sands of New Zealand's beaches, can think of Stewart's Island and of these three natural beauties combined in form and colour, striking and beautiful. The hills are not high, and there are little slopes and glens that hereafter will be the habitat of the apple and the apricot, or the grazing ground for the horse, the cow, and the sheep. But when that happens a change will have come over Port William—and over Stewart's Island. A steamer will not then be a rarity, and, I fear, the spearing of flounders within forty feet of the beach unknown. But such is progress. Natural beauty gives way to utilitarianism, and the soul of a Rankin is shocked when he be' olds, instead of the clear blue atmosphere and clouds, and the limpid water, the smoke of the factory and the discoloured stinking sewer. Yes, man makes nature ugly, and so he exists by destruction. Thank heaven there are places left where men can commune with nature, and admire her ; and for many years to come Stewart's Island will be one of these places. Not, it is true, a place of "grand" scenery, but a place of quiet beauty and striking effects.