"ONE LONG FIGHT”

New Zealand Times, Volume LI, Issue 11867, 28 June 1924, Page 5

"ONE LONG FIGHT”

MT. EVEREST EXPEDITION NATIVE POUTERS FAIL, FORCING OLLMBERS TO RETURN. NEAR THE SUMMIT By Telegraph.—Press Assn.—Copyright. Published in “The Times.’’’ LONDON, June 26. Major E. F. Norton, of the Everest Expedition, in a dispatch dated June Bth. from a camp at a height of 21,000 feet, east of Rongbuk Glacier, relates that the almost superhuman difficulties of the final assault, and especially tile demeanour of the native porters, .were enough to daunt the hardiest spirits. OXYGEN DISCARDED. It had already been decided to modify the original plans. Owing to the moral and physical exhaustion of the native porters, it was anticipated that few would ho available to assist the climbers above 23,000 feet, and that the climbers would discard oxygen tor at least two attempts to reach the summit, and would sleep for two nights on the mountain above 23,000 fee-t. The weather was then almost perfect. The peak stood clear cut against the azure sky. Symptoms of the monsoon disappeared, hut the explorers knew that it might at any moment burst with full force. Fifteen picked porters, distinguished by tli9 name of ‘■Tigers,” were assembled, and the stage was eat for the final. GALE UPSETS PLANS. The weather continuing perfect, Mr Mallory and Captain (;. Bruce (nephew of Major-General Bruce), with nine “Tigers,” established a camp on the north ecl on June Ist. They began the ascent of the great north ridge next day in order to establish camp at No. 5. But suddenly a bitter north-west wind nearly blew the loaded porters off their feet, and the progress was one long fight against the wind and the altitude, sometimes on rock, sometime? on snow, at an angle of 45 degrees. It was hoped to establish Camp No. 5 on the sheltered side of the ridge at. 25,300 feet. At 25,000 feet the endurance of the porters began to flag, and only four reached Camp No. 5. The remainder dropped their burdens. Captain Bruce and orte “Tiger” were forced to make several trips to bring up stores, but white men cannot carry loads at these altitudes with impunity. It is scarcely to be wondered at that General Bruce’s heart .was strained, though happily only temporarily. Thus Camp No. 5 was finally established. ONE PORTER WILLING. Three picked porters were retained, and the remainder were sent hack. Obviously everything depended on the morale and physical condition of these tbreo. Captain Bruce’s persuasive powers, however, failed to arouse their en thusiasm for the morrow's task. The wind seemed to have killed their spirits. On the morrow it .was intended to make a start, but while they were preparing breakfast they obtained most unwelcome news—only one porter was fit to proceed. The other two professed to he sick and totally unable to carry loads. It .was fairly evident that the three porters had “short their bolt,” so after a brief consultation the party decided to return to Camp No. 4 and consider the plans for a further attempt. ’Elis dispatch covers the movements ed the! expedition just prior to Mr Mallory and Mr Irvine starting on their ' fatal attempt to reach the summit.