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THE GARDEN

VEGETABLE GARDEN THE ROTATION' Of VEGETABLE PLOTS. Much has been written on the subject of rotation of crops, but few writers attempt to explain to amateurs just what this means, and how best to_ put it into practice. Let us discuss the reasons tor cl anging the crop from one producing roots, to one whose leaves are edible, or one bearing edible seeds, pods, or fruit, as the case may be. First of all, it is to avoid diseases and peste that determines our course of action-—the- pests -which' affect one class of plant may not be able to exist on those that are totally different in texture and habit; therefore, in order to give ae„littlo scope as possible for the perpetuation of pests and diseases, the careful gardener follows a crop of oabbage with carrots, parsnips or beetroot; this not only giving these root drops ideal soil conditions for their particular requirements, but also checks the career of pests usually associated with cabbages and other members of the Bressiea group of vegetables, bat which cannot exist on root crops. Another vital reason for careful rotation of crops is that vegetables of a given .class A taJke certain elements from the soil for their own particular structure, so it necessarily follows that if the next crop u of similar constitution, and has need of the very elements which the foregoing crop extracted from the soil, the second crop is sure to he starved of its most vital needs; because, with all the modern knowledge of manuring and revitalising of soil, we cannot yet replace exactly wliat any given crop has taken from the soil; although it cannot be denied science ,is rapidly gaining knowledge - along these lines. But for the present we find it safer and surer to grow root crops where previously cabbages, lettuces, and cauliflowers grew on the rich soil we had prepared for them, and we know there will be no need to re-manure the plot for the beetroot, parsnips, salsify, carrots, radish, or any • such crop which we are contemplating sowing. Beans should not follow a crop of peas, for the reaeon that both are leguminous varieties, and should be used to advantage to further the interests of some class of plant which would receive benefit from the deposits of plant food these legumes gather from the atmosphere and deposit in the soil. Potatoes should not follow tomatoes, or vice versa. Where it is found impossible to carry out a system of rotation, the next - best thing is to work each bed thoroughly, and apply a top dressing of half of lime to every square yard. IN THE FLOWER GARDEN ASTERS. In planting out aster seedlings, try a system of colour blending. Promiscuous planting is a thing of the past. For instance, try a bed or border of white..Cr.egO asters, with an edging of mauve or pink oneß, or a bed of pink bordered with mauve or lavender. A rouna bed could have a circular centrepiece of crimson, with borders of white and of crimson alternating till the edging is reached. This edge can be planted with forget-me-nots, ageratum, or any other blue flower growing to a suitable height. Salvias, phlox, petunias, zinnias-, Japanese iris, bedding begonias, coleus, and many other summer and autumn flowering or foliage plants are fnr more effective when massed in separate colours than when planted here and there at random. CARNATIONS. Do the right thing at the right time 1 That’S the slogan for gardeners, and it applies with special force to carnations. Any light, well-drained soil suits carnations, but they prefer a bed to themselves rather than having to share quarters with other varieties. There must bo no scarcity of limo in the soil if carnations are to succeed, therefore if it is known that lime is only present in small quantities more must be added from time to time, and it can be dusted over the foliage as well as on the soil to keep diseases in oheck. Cow manure, which is old and rotted, is best for sandy soils as it makes the sand more adhesive and retentive of moisture. It is also of a cool nature and rich in plant foods. Quito a number of new varieties., all distinct and thoroughly tested, will bo available to the carnation loving public before long. Pride of place roust be given to “Lancaster,” which is.of immense size, very full, and of excellent decorative form with sound calyx. The colour is strikingly attractive, being bright rosy pink heavily flaked and spotted with crimson. The stems are long and strong, thus no wiring js needed in ar ranging. This variety bloomo incessantly in winter. One of the most attractive of red carnations, “Red Wing,” has a great future. No one could find fault with its excellent growth and constitution. The flowers are large, full, and nicely formed. “Comet” will need to 100-k to its laurels when this new variety becomes available. “Snowdon” is a beautiful pure white, and produces extra largo shapely blooms on the stillest of stems A sound calyx and nicely fringed petals also distinguish this new comer.

Notes by Rata. IN THE VEGETABLE CARDEN SOW SPINACH, LETTUCE, BEET, FRENCH BEANS, CLIMBING BEANS, PUMPKINS, SQUASHES, AND CUCUMBERS. PLANT TOMATOES, LEEKS, LETTUCE, AND CAPE GOOSEBERRIES. IN THE FLOWER GARDEN SOW ASTERS, PETUNIAS, COLEUS, DIANTHUS, AND PORTULACCA. PLANT GAILLARDIAS, LARKSPUR, SHASTA DAISY, SALVIA, CARNATIONS.

NITROGEN AS A PLANT FOOD * RESULTS OF OVERFEEDING. I was once called to inspect three houses of young- vines which had been planted six months (says a writer in the “Garden”). The houses were new and splendidly planned, the borders looked in perfect order, the staple being good turfy loam of the right texture, and the vines were the best that could be procured. These started all right, but when the growths were about 6in in length they came to a standstill, and, with the exception of some very dwindling attempts at growth, they were in this condition when I saw them. The man in charge put the failure.down to wireworm. On examination it was found they had started rooting in some old potting soil which had been placed about the roots, but when the roots touched the new coil they "would not enter it and they died back. The soil had a very unpleasant smell, and then I was informed that a certain proprietary manure had been mixed with it. There was talk of a lawsuit with the vendor, but I knew it was procured from a firm of good repute, and. as far as, could bo judged from a sample, it was not the fault of the manure at all, but that an overdose had been given. Some peach trees planted in the same kind of soil without the manure had done splendidly. A good portion of the border was removed and replaced with fresh soil, in which new vines were planted. These did well for a year or two till the roots reached the obnoxious mixture, when there was a sudden stop. I visited the same establishment professionally a few years later, when it was in charge of another gardener, and the whole border had to be renewed and planted afresh. Since then excellent results have followed. ? The example of the peach trees, showed that the soil was rich enough without any addition of nitrogenous matter, and when such a soil can be procured I advise no stimulating material to be added during the first two or three years, though it is always advisable to add ohl mortar or lime in come form, as well as phosphates and potash. Unfortunately most of us have to make shift with a less perfect material. On another occasion a house was planted without any added nitrogenous matter. The vines grew very strong, but the .growth was rather flabby, and at pruning time the pith was found to be black in colour. Soon after the fruit had ripened the skin turned soft as the pulp and the fruit soon decayed. The cause of this was that turf with long -grass growing on it had been used for the border, though not till some months after cutting. The grass heated, however, and caused rapid decomposition of the fibre, so that what should have lasted for two or three years was brought into action all at once. There was also found to be a deficiency of lime in the 6oil. This was quite unexpected, for -the spot was situated between two hills less than three miles apart which produced excellent lime in large quantities. After a time, when sufficient newly-slaked lime had been added to sweeten the soil throughout, all went well. LESSONS TO BE LEARNED. Two lessons may be learnt from these mishaps. First, that when the sods are covered with long grass it i a advisable to char them. It is not often that such a thing happens, but in this case the turf was cut from a largo park where there was little grazing other than that done by the deer. The second lesson is that when dealing with a soil with which we are unacquainted it is well to add some old mortar for fruit borders. With regard to nitrogen,' do not imagine that I recommend starving plants. In attempting to produce great results I feed them up to danger point; but it is necessary to know when they will bear the fattening process with the least danger. When I had the privilege of helping myself to undiluted urine from a tank inside a cowshed it was used freely both indoors and out without any added water during the early winter. When the soil is full of roots it is astonishing how much of such liquor fruit trees and_vinea will bear during the dormant season. It must not, however, bo applied undiluted later than six or eight. weekß before growth starts afresh. When it is no longer safe to use it. on fruit-bearing plants the liquor can be poured in between the rows of cabbagesj supposing these aro 2ft apart, and 'the plants earthed up. These and also asparagus will bear a great deal of feeding. When no manure water vvas at hand I have given well-estab-lished beds of asparagus, after grdtvth had started, lib of nitrate of soda to the perch at intervals of only a week up to midsummer with good result when there was no deficiency of the other requisites in the soil. To apply nitrogen alone to a soil which is deficient in other elements of plant food is to court disaster. But as artificial or concentrated nitrogen disappears more quickly than the other necessaries, it is well to apply it in small and frequent doses, and only during tho growing season.

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZTIM19231124.2.125

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Times, Volume L, Issue 11685, 24 November 1923, Page 12

Word Count
1,801

THE GARDEN New Zealand Times, Volume L, Issue 11685, 24 November 1923, Page 12

THE GARDEN New Zealand Times, Volume L, Issue 11685, 24 November 1923, Page 12

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