SATURDAY CHAT

New Zealand Times, Volume XXXI, Issue 6962, 30 October 1909, Page 11

SATURDAY CHAT

ON GAMBLING. "Ono person in every eight iu Australia and Now Zealand is a gambler In Tattcrsnirs alone," oxcbumed a lending Umd-on preacher in a sermon against gambling not. long ago. and inter Ati*t .fcesio Aokennann repeated tho indictment in tlio columns of a leading I/mdon periodical, and proceeded to prove much to her own tion, ohviouslv, tlmri; all Atu-.traU.Ma was tluoro-ughly. demoralised. Whereat Mary Gaunt, aa Australian presswoman in London, rose up for tho honour of hor country, and smote both the preacher and ilfas Ackormaim through the_ columns of tho " Westminster Gazette, urguing in conclusive fashion that a man who take* a ticket in Taittcrsall's is no gambler any more tlianthoono why buys a penny pui»r with tl,e <»"}«* oI S"vk*ins tho last lino of a Limerick. Both have spent sumo hard won cash in the endeavour to "gather in spoils without given value." Mary Gaunt also argues that, as far as tho gambling craze is eoncurnod, tho Old Land is ovory bit as bad as tho now, ami takes exception to tltat spirit that iu tho early part of tho nineteenth, century called tho native born "currency" ami tho Eng-\ish-born "sterling." EVERYTHING A GAMBLE. Australasia gambles, admits Mary Gaunt, but ouiy as all tho world gambles Tile ordy diil'erenco is that in tho farvour of her youth she makes laws against it, just as she gives women the voto, Drovides old ago pensions, and generally onden.vo.uxs to right all the wrongs tho old world sees going on under her eyes and submits to with complacency. Having brought forward many proofs to show that in England gamibhiUg goes on to as great an extent as in Australasia, though in a more sordid and pitiful way, ifisß Gaunt Kays:— "Australasiagambles, and some of her peoplo raise their hands and try to stop it, but if wo did not strive there would be an end to all life, and to say that Australasia lota tho gambling spirit sap her vitality is a most monstrous untruth, a misreading of all tho signs of the times." Sho then essays to prove that tho gambling spirit in a people is no* a bad one, for all that preachers rage against its manifestations. Wo can laydown no hard-and-fast rules. To s-aek to reap eagerly wbere wo have not sown is doubtless bad, but after all it ifi very human, very common, to all countries, and tho gambling spirit, properly controlled, 'is only that love of excitement, that spirit of adventure that sent our fathers into tho wildnerness. GAMBLING EVER THE KULING SPIRIT.

"It was a gaawblo whon the Vikings put off in their galleys from the rockbound shores of the North—-ware they mot staking their lives far Bold or slaves or menohanddee? When England s sons first sot sail for tho South were they not doiu" tho Karoo tiling? The pioneers took then- chances—the- women who stood bssido thoni took oven greater chances. ... It was tho gambling spin* that first took our fathers from their comfortable firesides tp Australasias shores. And when the pioneers pushed out from the coast-line, daring drought and. fliowd and unknowji dangers, leaving their bones that others might see the sign and pass that way, wore they not gainibling too? And Aifstralasia, in her turn, sent her sons to Africa to help tho Mother Country in a quarrel that was none of hers—sent her very best, with beating drums and waving fluffs and joyous shouting that drowned tho sobs of tho weeping women. The sending made stronger tho crimson thread of kinship that bound her to tho motherland, but for those who went it was a gamble nevertheless-, a gamble in which the Toward was email though lite was the stake. .But they went,, and all the world applauded." "No," finishes this specious defender of her country's credit and honour, "Miss Ackennann is wrong, and so i'l the preacher. The gambling spirit is not a sign of canker and weakness; it Is a 6ignj of vigour and strength. It is a sign she is living—living and not stagnating. "We gamble with our lives, we ganiblo with our loves, we lose, God Belp us! and wo learn to weep in secret, keep a straight face, and try again, ■working steadily, and taking what excitement we may, even if i)t be in tho form of a ticket for Tatbexsall's sweep. And for a nation as for a man I would pray, God .give a good heart and the hand of a gambler." Although gambling is not numbered among my own rices, and with others I should be sorry to see it excused — that is, gambling as it is ordinarily •understood —on the ground that there are certain risks in iife that wo ought cheerfully and courageously to take, there is no patriotic Australian or New Zoalander but should applaud Mary Gaunt for her spirited action in defending ue from tho mischievous propagandists who. by their utterances, endeavour to cast a slur on us as a community, forgetting the true old axiom, "Soiling another will nevor make one's self clean-*'

MEN'S-FASHIONS AND VANITIES. I find that the men are quite pleased that notice was taken of the brave show <of socks made "by thorn at tho recent races, And one has written urging that the time is ripe for a fashion column for men to bo introduced into the "Times." "Why shouldn't we be inBtraotcd as to what is the latest thing for our wear as well as the women, whoso drcsSj as far as I am ahlo ta judge, is the same anyhow, except that their lower garment is not divided?" «sks this correspondent. "They weal* our collars and tics, and latterly I noftaoe they have oven poached on our preserves to the oxtenit of donniing hrilhant hucd stockings, and carrying walkingsticks. Perhaps this is in revenge for the hint .we have bonrawed from them in regard to suspenders." I have passed my correspondent's suggestion on to the ruling power, who, I am afraid, is not sympathetically inclined towards it. 'ln the meantime any stray bits of information regarding the newest wear for men will be duly chronicled. This week I happen to have struck a veritable titbit, hailing straight from Paris. Here it is:—"The latest craze for men is hats of blue, Copenhagen blue, gentian, the blue of the cornflower, of Wedgwood china, the blue of the sky, of the turquoise, and of the forget-me-not! These are carried out in felt, with n careless dent in tho middle, Alpine style, and aro donned with grey check suits, tho tio and soaks exactly matching tho hnt in tone of blue, a tone chosen to enhance the complexion of tho eyes." "CHEERFUL'' EFFECTS. At Homo, if report speaks true, all .male creation, led by tho Kins, now

dispart themselves iu all the colours 01 tho rainbow, and not long uince, m ono of tho fa.-h'ion columns lc-r men. which "Public Opinion" and .a few other periodicals have instituted, it was gravely assorted that King Edward on the occasion of a race nu-oting at Kempton Park, w«c a grey suit, a roso pink '.■hirt a h'vender tin, a livacmth waistcoat ' and a button-hole of forgot-me-not blue. Apropos of which "Punch ' had the following:Tiio time has «mio when man will bo No more a. tiling of sombre hues, Nor colour wear alone when ho Has got a horrid lit of blues. His cosi-r. mav bo of pearly grey, A lavender tie may loosely stray Across hi« front, ami he'll, exposo A lovely vest of sweet old rose, it i.s tho thing— Upon tho King Tho colours of the rainbow cling! When Solomon was at his best, Ho put tho lilies all to sluuno, But he'd no hyucin thine vest. Nor pearl grey trousers, all the same. We'll wear green hats and ties of pink. Our souks shall be pale blue, v.e think, Our shirts may be of yellow stuff, Or anything that's rich enough. For man must seem A "perfect dream," A regular sunset "colour scheme."

That men are becoming more and moro concerned about thoir apparel is indeed very evident. According to tho "Daily Mail," delegates fram Franco. Spain, Sweden. Belgium. LMusia, India.. Austria, Holland, and Now Zealand were present at a conference of tho International Union of Foreman Tailors, held roconitly at tho London Polytechnic. The crving need of a less monotonous and more artistic costume fox men was strongly urged by Mr S. V. Thornton, who presided, and numbers of tho delegates agreed that there was not enough originality and diversity of stylo in men's attire, ami that there was grave ■danger of tho male fashions of the time narrowing down to the universal wear, and übiq nitons nso, o<f the monotonous lounco suit. While the costume, said Mr Thornton, certainly has its advantages for purely utilitarian purposes, there are surely other styles that would more fittingly adorn tho "human form divine" than the sack-like envelope which outfitters turn out by tho same pattern year tin and year out. The result of the conference may ho expected to ltave a direct influence upon male fashions, and goodness knows what "cheerful" effects we may b© prepared for.

Tho old-quoted "bull," ascribed bo on Irish mem'beT of the House of Commons: "I smell a- rat. I see him flcnatWlg in the air, but I will nip him in the bud,'" was recalled the other day, when a WeHinjpton woman, admonishing her daughter on account of a deforced duty, said, "O, you always put things on the lonff finder, and eoine in at tho he-el of tho hunt, Nellie." Ltfiter on in my hearing she sententionsly observed that "a, dinner of herbs and peace is beftter than conten.'feson, with a stalled ox !"-

EUPOKTED GBNTJISES.—AN ANALOGY. New Zealand is badly bitten by the "'imported genius" craze, but it is human nature to try and disprove Longfellow's assertion "that is best which lieth nearest," and to have respect only for that which comes from afar. "Which reminds mo that I once knew an old farmer, who, feeling ill, yearn«.:l to consult a medical man from the city. An old lady from a neighbouring farm called, took careful note of his symptoms, and advised a bran poultice. This simple suggestion was received with much scorn, and the' city medico, who announced his fee as twenty guineas, duly handed over his practice to a friend for a day, and drove out to the farm. The doctor brought his wife for an outing, lunched at the hotel, incidentally looked up the old farmer in the afternoon, pocketed his twenty guineas, and prescribed a bran poultice.

THE FOKITOJE-TELLING CEAZE. There is an awful fascination in having one's fortune told, and this predilection of weak humanity in general, and women in particular, is responsible for a good deal of tho charlatanism practised by "Madamos" who rake in half-a-orown- each time a "client" is gulled. I once knew a girl who made periodical weekly visits to a certain foreign-named lady, and whose actions in tho interim were entirely dominated by what the wily oracle revealed to her. Itace-timo generally furnishes a plentiful harvest for' these oracles, whose rooms are besieged by a multitude of fair ones of all ages anxious to "put their money on." Their cheerful "partang-up" with the half-crown fee, when told to "back red," or "green," as the case may be, throughout the meeting, and absolute faith in the mandate are, it must bo admitted, sometimes justified by the results; but it never Bcems to strike the deluded client that a tip to Madame from a jockey boy may bo at the bottom of the revelation which is wholly attributed to occult influence. Women 'in the best class of society are often Madame's best customers. Apropos of which, a good story is told of a society matron in a New Zealand city whoso preachy denunciation of fortunetellers and that sort of thing, and the absolutely wicked folly of people encouraging such, etc etc., so Jar defeated its object that it merely created in her two grown-up preached-at daughters a burning desire to take a peep into the future. Accordingly they set forth one fine morning, tho mother being safely out of the way at her dressmaker's—or so they understood. Imagine the tableau when on the young ladies being ushered into Madame s ante-room, they were brought face to face with their mother on her way out!

Mr Hay-ward, who has recently opened in his business as a ladies' tailor in those new premises 294, Lanibton quay, is giving complete satisfaction to his numerous patrons. Letters to hand .express deliaht at the charm, combined with simplicity, of his dresses, and one and all confidently rely on the good taste so clearly expressed in the gowns turned out in his up-to-date establishment. *

Bridal _ Debutante Presentation.— Hand Bouquets in all newest styles, ladies' dress and hair sprays. Gentlemen's coat flowers. Birthday offerings. Hiss Prebble, the Floral Depot, 51, Willis street.

Weddings.—Bride's and Bridesmaid's Bouquets. Sprays. Baskets, and other artistio floral devices for birthdays, presentations, bon voya-re, etc. Choicest flowers only used. Miss Murray, ViceKegal Florist. 36. Willis street. •

Of course you have seen the pretty millinery at Mrs Matthew-son's, Lambton quav. Everybody says it is the smartest in the city, and certainly it is the most reasonably" priced we have seen. *

SOCIAL AND PERSONAL NOTES Mr and Mrs Ilazlett have returned io Chxistehurch. Mrs D. CiuX'lljerg has returned to Masterton from her visit to Wellington. Mrs CuD-liffe. of Greymouth, sister of the late .Right Hon. Mr Sodden, is visiting Wellington. Mr and Mrs Ernest Glanville Hicks have arrived in Wellington from their wedding tour.

Mrs Cliffe, who lias been the guest of Mrs David Nathan, has gone on to visit Grcyrnouth.

Her Excellency Lady Plnnket has consented to open tho hospital bazaar at Dannovirko nest month.

Lady Ward left by the Maori, en route to invercargill, last night, on a visit to Mr and Mrs Cyril Ward.

Mrs Massey, wife of tho leader of the Opposition, Jieft Wellington yesterday by the Main Trunk lino for- Auckland.

Mrs Vallanco, Miss Variance and Miss Bennett, of Maslerton, who were staying at tho Grand Hotel, have returned home.

Dr and Mrs Cow (London) and Miss Nelson (Auckland), whp have been staying at tho Grand Hotel, have left for Greymouth.

Tho friends of Miss T. Hunter (daughter of Mr John Hunter, Masterton) entertained her at a social gathering on Thursday evening prior to her departure to Wellington.

Mrs and Miss Lucie Ehrcnfried, of Auckland, who have been spending some time at the Empire Hotel, left last night by tho Maori for Cimstckurch.

Mrs D. Munro. of Park street, has gone to Dunedin, where she will join Air Munro. In about a fortnight she intends returning as far as Nelson, where she will possibly remain three months.

Miss Gertrude MilLs, daughter of Sir James Mills, is expected by the lonic, which' is duo in Wellington on Monday. Sir James Mills has come up from Duiiediri to meet his daughter, as also has her sister. Mrs Beswick, from Christohtrrch.

A feature of, tho St. John Ambulance FaiT will bo 'tho "'iiddon tlreasure," which is being engineered by a couple of St.. Patrick's College boys. Tickets sold in tho ball will admit to one of the twenty sawdust claims provided,' and tho finding of a small white ball will entitle the luck digger to a prize of considerable value. The boys are sanguine of meeting witb much success, and already many tickets have been bospoken.

Tho fortnightly meeting of the Socioty for the Protection of Women and Children was held yesterday, Mrs A. 11. Atkinson presiding. There lvere present Mesdames A. K. Newman, "W. A. Evans, McGavin, J. ICiikcaldie, Glasson, Gordon Ponsonby. and Mies E. B. Brown. A large number of cases- were dealt with, several requiring careful investigation. A case of alleged cruelty to a child ia to bo investigated. Tho following subscriptions were acknowledged with thanks:—Dresden Piano Co. -61 Is, Messrs George and Kertley £1 Is, Aire A. K. Newman .£l, "A Thank Offering" 10s, Messrs Bannatyno and Co. 10s, N.Z. Express Co. ss.

The' Government Printing Office' was elosed\ up to 1 p.m.. and tho lias flew half-mast yesterday, out of respect to tho memory of Mrs Mackay (wife of Mr John Mackay, Government Printer), whoso funeral took place yesterday mornrng. There was a large attendance at the funeral, the cortege including all the employees of the Government printing Office, as well as representatives of the other branches of tho public service. The Itev. Gibson Smith conducted Jll servico a-t tli2 residence in Brougham street, and also officiated at the graveside at Karori. Wreaths were sent by ail the departments in the Government Printing Office. There was a note of nathos in tho fact that the son of tho deceased lady was unable to be preseut at the funeral owing to being confined to bod with an attack -of scarlet fever at Nelson. The Hon. J. A. Millar. in chargo of the Government Printing Office, was one of tho many from whom oppressions of sympathy wioTO received by the bereaved family.

WEDDING AT ST. MASK'S , A quiet wedding was celebrated at St. Mark's Church yesterday afternoon bv the Eev. Johnson, M.A., Miss Jean W'ilson, - youngest daughter of Mr G. G. Wilson, late of tho Railway accounts office, being the bride, and Mr George S. Jackson, youngest son of Mr E. Jaeiksotn, "Clojffcon," Bristol England, the bridegroom. Tho bride looked winsome in a pretty frock of ivory glace silk en Princesse, with the usual wreath of orange blossoms and a handsome veil embroidered by her sister, and carried a shower bouquet. Attending her was hoi* cousin, Miss Kathleen Borer, who wore an embroidered muslin frock with a veil and crook decorated with pink flowers. The bridegroom was attended bv Mr Theo. Treaiso as best man. The happy couple loft last night by tho "Warrimoo for Sydney, where their honeymoon is to be spent, the bride travelling in a brown costume and becoming hat en suite. Mr and Mi's Jackson will reside at Khandallah,

THE HOME OF COMPASSION BENEFIT CONCERT AT LEVIN. Tho good work done by Mother Mary Aubert and the "Little Sisters of the Poor" is universally recognised, and this fact was strongly emphasised by the support accorded the concert held in the Town Hall, Levin, last Thursday, under Uie organisation of Mrs Birss. in aid of tho funds of the Homo of Compassion at Island Buy. Several artists went up from Wellington, among them being Miss Remington, L.T.C.L., Hiss Simpson (flautist), Mrs Sutclifie. and little Doris Guise (danseuse). The concert was a really brilliant success, and at tho conclusion the hall was cleared for dancing, which continued far into the night.

MISS MILSOM, HAIE PHYSICIAN. Her advice is wholesome and lasting on all matters concerning the hair and skin. For a lovely complexion use CTJLTENE, the famous Eastern _ Skin Food. Consultation free. King's Chambers, next Empiro Hotol, Wellington. Telephone BH, ».

MR AND MRS CLAUDE ASKEW, j A FAIR OP CLEVER COLLABOEATOES. Joint, authorship between husband and wife seems a very successful venture, judging by the popularity of the works ot such married collaborators as Mr and Mrs C. N. Williamson. Mr and Mrs Egerton Castle, and Mr and Mrs Claude Askew. . ~ Mr and. Mrs Aster's success is all toe movo remarkable because it was not till after their marriage, in 1900 that Mr Askew took tip a literary career. He was intended for the Diplomatic Service, and, with that end in view, instead ot going to Oxford or Cambridge from Eton, he spent several years on. the Continent, gaining a knowledge of foreign languages, manners, and customs, and also a love of travel. The success of The Shulamite," the first book written by Mr and Mrs Askew, clearly pointed the direo- ! tion in which his talent lay, though that might have been suspected even in hja schooldays, -when, he actually -wrote a five-act tragedy in blank vei-.se. It is an. amusing fact that when "The Shulamite was dramatised and produced at the Savoy, Mr and Mrs Askew saw the first performance from the stalls. When the final curtain came down Mr Askew stood in the centre of a crowd calling "Author," and looking eagerly at the prompt side of the stage, as if keenly anxious to see what sort of man would respond to the call. And the only person by him who knew that he was to the stalls and had no intention o? appearing on the stage was his wife. Mrs .Askew-pretty, dainty. is as little like th» traditional type, of author as her well-groomed, good-looking husband, whose general .appearance re rather that of a successful financier tnam of a literary man. She takes a good sto-.ro in the 'writing of the Askew novels raid gets through a Large amount ot "dialoWo" and "descriptive" by alternately dictating and using tlio pen herself It is a peculiarity of Mrs Askew that she can write with greater ease «*ou*i' place she has never visited than about one she knows well. Indeed it was thought that the writers of ' The Shu-hv mite" must have known South Africa ™ tknately-as a matter of. fact, neither Mr or Mi-s Askew has ever been in that oart of the world. Though they-are busy workers? Mr and Mrs Askew find tame to entertain, a good deal at their homo near Hyde Park: and they are often to be seen at Society gatherings.

! THE QUEEN'S BOTJDOIR. Queen Alexandra's boudoir at Sandringham ii, as she often declares her favourite apartment at tho whole of tor ■many residences. It «™rloolm Jhe gardens, and is a very light and airy room on the first floor. The walls are flecorated in her Majesty s fownnle colours—pate apple green and white, and some priceless bric-a-brac is arranged in cabinets, while the. furniture is mainly of the time of Mario Antoinette. Only the very favoured few are ever permitted to enter this room, and outside the ladies of the Boyal Family the only one who may enter the room without a direct invitation is the Queen's and confidant, the Hon. Charlotte Knollys. It is to this room that the Queen rotares for tea and a rest before dinmer, and it is only very rarely that she taKas five o'clock tea with the ladies of a house party staying at Sandxingham, either the Princess Victoria or Queen Maud ot Norway acting for her on these occasions'. A profusion of flowers is scattered about the boudoir, while a feature of the room is tho enormous number of photographs it- contains. Nearly every European royalty is represented here, the great majority of tho portraits being autographed while there are a number of the Queen's own snapshots also to be seen.

The recent birthday of the Earl of Sandwich recalled the fact that the useful comestible known as a sandwich owes its origin to his ancestor, the fourth earl, who was First Lord of the Admiralty in the middle of the eighteenth century. John Lord Sandwich, it is said, was so devoted to cards that he could not bear to be disturbed in his game, even by a summons to meals, and so hilt on the happy thought of having food supplied in the convenient form of what came to be called sandwiches. Ilis invention, and that of the now obsolete short upper garment known as a "spencer," were commemorated in this stanza : "Two noble earls whom if I quote Some folks might call me sinner, The one invented half a coat, The other half a dinner." Squeezed lemons are valuable. Use thean for cleaning brasses and dish-cov-ers. Put a pinch of whiting on the article to be cleaned, then rnb it well, using the lemon as you would a You will bo surprised how much dirt you remove in this way, and how easily. Squeezed lemons, too, are useful to clean stained and much-soiled hands. Rub the hands with the lemon, paying special attention to the finger-nails, then rinse away the juice, and finish off with _soaD- and water*

COMPETITION IN DRESS THE NEW STANDARD IN FEMININE BEAUTY. An American woman of great wealth testified, during the progress of a law case recently, to the effect that a truly elegant woman ought not to wear the same gown twice, no matter how beautiful or expensive a gown it may be. And wdth the change of gown, it was said, there must, naturally follow, a chango of all accompanying articles of dress. 'This tendency towards almost ineooiccivable extravagance in dress/' writes M. Marcel Pxevost, the well-known French author, in the "Chicago Sunday Tribune, "is not surpTisang in viiew of the fact that society lays so much stress upon appearance rather than upon accomplishments. One of our first ultramodern pninciples is that woman's attraction resides not so much in her spiritual and intellectual .qualities, not in her beauty, but in her elegance. "And by elegance is not meant the politeness and the harmony of her bearing and - manners,- but simply the way in whiicdi she 'appears.' the- manner in which she is dressed.

"As I have often pointed.-out, beauty, woman's beauty, as such has lost in importance in • modern society. No man who is at home in the society world will over dare say to a woman, Tiow beautiiful you are.' If perchance he were.to say this, the woman thus addressed would interpret - litis remark to moan that her appearance, her gowmfl, are beautiful.

"To bo beautiful in outr day and age no longer means to possess beautiful features. Modexn language and modern lcgio have changed the meaning and notion of this, Beau-ty, to our modern notions, is a thing not internal, inherent, God-given, but an external thing, dependent upon the purse, the tailor, and the inlidlrnex.

"Such a definition and principle., of beauty once accepted—aind no one will deny that this primcdple lias been accepted by the modern, world almost without exception—feminano competition in the matter of dross and appearance could not but be driven to frenzy.

"There could not but arise on aristocracy of dress. With, the modern notion of beauty women who are not naturally endowed with attractive faces, with pleasing; features, can outshine* their more favoured sisters by the elegance of theitr diress and appearance. "Beside a modern woman, beautifully gowned, splendidly 'made up,' the majes-t-.io beauty erf cLaesio times and of the BonaiiJssitnce appears to a disadvantage. With dress as tho principal feature in consideration of what constitutes beauty, every woman, no matter how unkind NaAure may have been to her, can strii-l make herself attractive and hope to be admired, to be courted, to be preferred. "But the change in the modern notion of beauty is rapidly advancing still further. Thus, to be beautiiful is getting' to mean not only to be dressed elegantly, but to be dressed expensively.

"Anyone who, doubts this tendency needs but to look at the constant ad>vanco in the prices of feminine gowns and dress generally. Compare the gowns of to-day a-nd those of a decade or so ago, and you will find that the changes in. woman's dress have t not been in the direction of the gowns more, but in the direction of systematically raising tho prices on all gowns, of making them mare expensive. "The artiiists who devote their lives to making new fashions and styles for the beautiful sex are racking their brains now to make up gowns for which they are to charge .£IOO, of hats for .£6O. "They do not plan _ such high-priced! gowns because of their own great eupidoity, but because of their patrons' extravagance. Their best patrons demand such high-Dniced gowns and hats. They demand it because of the competition with which they meet from their sisters who are as rich as themselves. They do not want these to ecpial them in stxlendour and in elegance. "This is the psychology foT decorating their gowns with, the most expensive embroidery and lace, every inch of which meant & day's work. This is tho psychology for studding their dresses with diamonds and going at any length, to make their gowns expensive. "It is the natural result of substituting dress for beauty and artificial appearance for natural good looks. The r&ch. women who can afford to spend their money want to ba reputed as the ! most beautiful women.

,r Yv"hat will it all end in? Well, reason, and reason alone, will end t it, not soon, perhaj>3, but it will end this 6ome day. Already many women have abandoned this com petition in dress. "On every side you hear such expressions, 'O, well, yoxi cannot comipaie yourself to Mrs So-and-So. She orders twenty srowns at a time without even asking the price.' "And those who will hold oat longest in this mad chase will some day awaken to the fact that in spite of all th»ir resplendent gowns they" are not really olegant women, but imitations and no more.. Ajid then they will takes their money, which they now waste on almost inconceivable luxuries to adorcn themselves out.vardly, and will spend it in travel and in other things which will enrich their intellect, and will make them more attractive as women and not mere lay figure*," —_„

ST. JOHN AMBULANCE FAIK On Monday next, at 3 p.m., will be opened by Her Excellency Lady Plnnket the St. John Ambulance Nursing Guild Fair (for nursing the sick pocr in their own homes). It is unnecessary to give any further details of the grand work winch is being so quietly carried on in our midst. Tire arrangements for the fair havo been, in liand for some months, and everything augurs well for a successful rum. There wfill be four foncy dtaJls and tea kiosk, silver stall, flower and produce, tobacco stall, and sweets stall. TJiero will be numerous attractions throughout the bazaar, including performances by the various city brass bands, a programme of fancy dances, ballets, and tableaux, by Miss Estelle Beere's pupils, and Mr Turner's Banjo Bind Guitar Orchestra. A special feature of Hie bazaar will be a girand baby shew on Wednesday afternoon. Tho prizes, which are vainable, will be awarded by ballet, and wMI be presented by Her Excellency Lady Plnnket. who has donated two special prizes for the iinest natural fed babies. Entries for. the show should be forwarded to Mrs W. Kennedy, Clifton terrace, or Mrs J. Firth, Wellington College The patroness of tho bazaar is Her Excellency Lady Plunket; president, Mrs S. A. Rhodes; vice-presidents, Mes-(ia-raes A. K. Newman and AV. S. Moorhouse; secretary, Mrs Janet Firth; assistant secretaries, Miss Ethel Nathan and Mr Fred. AV. Cromlfie; treasurer, Mr J. AV. Jack, and in charge of raffles, Mr G. Wright.

A DELIGHTFULLY COOL COSTUME

Isn't this an ideal summer suit? Apart from its delightful coolness, if fashioned in linen or some kindred material, the design is so extremely becoming. The amateur Who lias never before attempted to make- a coat might work at this on© with assured success, for it is collarless savo for the ready-made collar of lace.; and that French seam down the fronts, starting midway of the shoulder. ren-dors 1 the flitting of even a stout figure wonderfully easy. It is not usual to Sine a coaJfc of this description, much less the skirt, but wide front facings, running nearly the width of tho shoulder, must extend down the whole of the fiDUfcs. Straight on the rear edge, the other edge of these facings must bo rounded off exactly to coincide with the,frant of the coat. Tho back of the coat is fitted and run-ond-fell seams are employed there; .but the French seam is of adifferent nature, aiwi i 6 merely pressod flat and oversewn at cither edge. It is a matter of importance to miake the seams of washing gowns- flat; otherwise they leave *a shiny outline after being ironed. Another useful item for washing costume, is the with a slip-through fastener, that the buttons may be removed for washing; they aro of "pearl here, by the way. The alternative is to ins&rit: tho . button- , shanks in eyelet-holes and to* pass a short length cf tape through the back, securing irt at either end. A collarless coat of tin is description lends itself delightfully to the fancy collar, and the frilled muslin ones, of the "Peter Paam" type, may be worn with great success in these circumstances.

Messrs Henry W. Savage aud Charles Frohman presented tho play, in three acts and a prologue, by Alexandre BisRon, entitled "Madame X," at -the Globe Theatre, London, on Wednesday, September Ist. The "cast" was a very strong one and included such wellknown artists as Mr Arthur Wontncr, Mr O. P. Heggie, Mr Herbert Boss,' and Mr Edmund Gwenn.

MISS SELINA SUTHERLAND. AN APPRECIATION". The following appreciation of the Into Miss Sutherland is clipped from a. recent number of the "Sydney Bulletin": A grand woman, Selina Sutherland, is dead. She had a ruggtd exterior—she was blunt and rough, with a manner masculine and direct; but withal she .carried around with her the gentlest heart that ever hid in gantro woman. Her tenderness for homelec-B babies—pathotio wisps of humanity—was a divine thing, ai all-embracing as tho arms of Mns Bc-Dono-by-as-iou-Would who sits in tho white land of Motiiex Carey's chickens with sea-blue eyes smilimg a welcome to los"t children. The babies Hiss Sutherland- has mothered are 'Past co'untdug—pitiful babies, wanted by nobody, and gaihercd in. from' tombstone doorsteps. The police reverenced tho woman. They found her ichanity practical. She was always ready to take a waif out r/[ their puzzled care-in the edd, small hours of tho morning when other charity mongers were snugly asleep. The cry of "Xvo room" never came from Mios Sutherland. She has been known to'havo- half a dozen babies in heir own bed for want of space elsewhere. A small lipase in a slum tenement was the beginning. That became veritable Old Woman's Shoe—with so many children nobody knew what to do. Pcoplo helped her to a larger house, and tho waif-gathering grew mightily. Some time ago the home assumed dimensions that attracted busy Society charity women. Help was given, but a Board sat heavily on Miss Sutherland. Tlio Board was feminine, and belonged to Polita Society. The methods of the Plank were not to Miss Sutherland's liking. (She had spent many yeare in her own way. Her own way had saved many lives, and it satisfied her. The Board diorated. Hiss Sutherland ignored. Tho Board grew hysterical and scratchy. Miss Sutherland hit back with no polite mincing of phrases. The Board people clung to each, other and shrieked, and the affair yunrped in haste arid at groat length into the papers. Miss Sutherland set hetr square. should<?rs, turned her back defiantly, and went on feeding lost babies. A new manager was sent. Miss Sutherland shut the door in her face and continued bathing and soothing howling infants. The last win in the battle was for Miss Sutherland. She was to have been installed in a home at Groenboro'—a place with gardens'and. grass paddocks a farm, willed to the charity by Miss Meglin. Before the transference of the bunch of babies could bo effected Miss Sutherland got ill. Pleurisy gave way to pneumonia and caused her death. A fellow slum-worker writes thus ofMir 3 Sutherland:

She got her death-blow during that inquiry. After it was over she told her staunch friend and medical mau, Dr Felix Moycr, that she was "as good as dead." Hor old heart slowly broke. The woman, whose endurance.was iron when it came to fitting up night after night with all sorts of wailing children, sick and cress, and, who rode once in her early Maaxiland daye a whole night's journey to get to a remote woolshed to nurse some typhoid patients (and she did nurse them, day and night, till they were well), could not stand up against the mean little pin pricks of those hen peckers. Funny old soul—with her mannish hat and coat and her wee hard hair "bun," tlio 'lastic of her hat dragging it -ap above her brown neck. The oommittes of "Sassiety ladies" were always -wanting to da*ag a Governor or such along to open new wings, etc. "Oh, dang those useless humbugs," she said once. "Open .the thing yourselves.-" . She fought -with every committee and everyone who tried to help her except Nurse Sanderson—a white-haired woman with a sweet, tired face, who loved her from first to last and stayed x-ight by I her to the end.

LADY WARWICK. There may be more than cmo Countess in the country to whom the title Socialist might be applied, but there is only on'3 name which springe to the public mind -when the distinctive "The" Socialist Countess is spoken of. The Countess of Warwick is - pre-eminently of that creed. With her it stands before all things, and quite recently an "At Home" was held at Hasten lodge, Dunniow when addresses were given by the hostess and some prominent Church. cleTgymen. It was in the fine old library that this remarkable gathering- was held, amid the paintings of former Warwicks in the dross of their days—surely a strange contrast to those who , were met to learn of the cause and claims of Socialism. But quite apart from any political opinion, Lady Warwick is beloved of the people of her county—Essex.' At h&r placo near Ihmmow all are welcome, nob lords and ladies only, but the humblest plough boy on the estate can be sure of a hearty handshake and kindly word. Her Chri-shmas parties. are something to remember. , Presents .for all coujc from this' Lady Bountiful, who of her goodness 'of ■ heart looks after tho tenants and -villagers and the school-children—-for none are ever forgotten." And yet, withal, there is time for many other interests. "Warwick Castle and its H/arls*'-' is proof of her delving into the past, while schools for gardening, needlework and sick-nursing all have their share of her time.