MY LADY’S MIRROR

New Zealand Times, Volume XXX, Issue 6451, 24 February 1908, Page 8

MY LADY’S MIRROR

NOTES ON FASHIONS.

Tbo sywtom of drcfwnnking in Pari* la comprchwimvo aixl magnificent. In fact, it: L* tlio e.OfU'l ud.ing part of I‘n |nwK ji.oist {>opular industry —the turning out of pice things for the lK%xuti lying (>l Kvo's daTighlors. In Parks no 1om» than Bu,OLO woirjfn and girls arc employed in in making tip fLicsfvo* nlnno. The 'kMrnuwvq cutters, fitters, and model* *imrdy add lo the army, Probably the till) ujmplrvmcnt would be 100,000 if wo added tlw) so-iemvomon, aixl jw»rhapH it; would orax-jW Urn again. by tin per nont. 'Hie: desigmys a.ro mostly wo/nori, but: tli<* ifrcait artiwtw arc a.s a rule men. Iji a %’rtj-v largo hoimo there will )*■ a* many fH a w-or« of fclucm, and all their time ifi taken up evolving fashions. I'lm designs p.yo ;,k<-tchwl, M>rnotlni<\s, indeed, padnfrd, but the pr-actjeal draping hs done on living model*. The cotlors are fiv(|Ufativ men, a,nd tho caw of “tailormnded’ are usually no. Strangely enough, tin- Paris hoi use prefers an Englhdimai; ax v entte/;; ami so many Englishmen urn employed i.n this way. The fitters ur(> women of faullless In.do ami long am) andirons training. In the more fafiMiu* whops they arc quite noteworthy, and enjoy c/iiusidorablo reputai ioiii.s. A oui-joiui feature is tlio model corps, though the people on-gaged in this way jtro called “mannequins." Many firms employ as many a* twenty of those mofkds. and each, bo ea.rn her money, may have io <lreas fifty limes a day. When % selection is bcvlng made, the rnodols am paraded* and paraded again, in street, bull room or wedding gowns, a* (hvurod, Mid tho customers look on and select what they require, according to how they are A "ninancijiiiii’* is paid on figure and. deportment, Mid if Irol.ii are perfect, she will earn Xb a month. The nal«?\vonian of equal attractiveness is much better rerrmnorUtofl and if die speaks # English and French equally well she will get a/? much b.- ,Cl 6. Tho woman cutter will bo paid up to ,£35, though .£2O i« tho usual money: but a man cutter may got double Hrs pay. Among the workers an embroiderer from 5s to 8s a day, but a HG-win-g-machlno hand Has to »c contend with from 3s Gil to 4s 6d. Pretty well all through the year tho drcsßmnknrs of Paris are a busy community, but at ccj'tnm seasons they may oven bo written of a? 'Tho -slaves of Pans.”

Wltilo dirossii)g for diainor i* «■ hallmark of blvU' and luxury, ik is. nor. wholly ko if wo give the word r libn ml reading. In this cit in ale, ni nil ovonfe, nl; ono |»>no<l of the year, ‘changing one's do Hi os once a day j-s dcf.trahlo cm the .score of hea Ith and comt for:. Af tar tho day's duties are oyer, to rornruin in tho «imo clothes is foolish, n.s tho body is t'n.n down, and a change meam* a toruo for it. Hence a complete charge revitalises tho system, so Hint jilio who retired half an hour ago, fagged out. reappears ns frcvih as ever. I could quota many authorities in support of this, but ono may sullico—"The British Lancet." Thiri journal, in a recent nrtio'e. hud it that "all who can change tJwur clothes at the opportunity’ which tho cessation from work a (fords should do so, no necessarily because tho maniKirf. of tho time may ask for it, but becaoMO tho onstara conduces to health of both Ixxly anti mint!, and is therefore in oonmbota harmony with hygienic principlc6. ,> When wo see someone wlio is fond of dressing thrice a day 07 so — liaving the leisure—we mustn't imagine it is mow vanity, as very likely she is mm-ply n was© member or her sex who, understanding the advantage of changing, is not too indolent to Jive up to it.

Wo shall eoon bo considering autumn fashions. In fact it in not too early (o dwou«3 first examples. Ribbon and bird trimming will play a prominent part, and the extent to which tho Utter may go is evidenced in tho picture, This is a dark green straw of very modified cloche character, and throe birds arc employed, one in front and one either sidn. the bodies resting on thebrim and 'Against-the .crown, mid tho wings being >voU drawn up in a pretty and attractive

(aohkm. Other hats which I have seen have a single bird with tho head in fivnt and tho wings expanded along tho rick®, the traggoßtion being, by a stretch of tho imagination, a bind in flight; also two birds with heads together in front mid wings noised either side; and again a single bird at tho side with wings in tho same position. Bird millinery ihxon’t please everyone, but what fash-, ton decrees must at least be noticed.

Green is a delightful colour, if well nheetm, and worn in the correct relation!. At the same time, there are greens and greens, light up to olive. Any shade is poo dif it is suitably disposed, though .light green is tho more acceptable tone in costnmery at this time, There is an idea that groan is a national colour, the colour of Ireland, in fact; but is is no more this, except in one shade, than all reds are the national colour of England. Tho other day I root a friend who assured me that a shade of emerald greon was tho national shade of Ireland on that rtcooumt; but emerald green is in no bbobo what she esteemed it. The green that is the colour emblem of Ireland is the green, of St. Patrick, and this is a bluey green, which, in certain lights, may oven took Sake a greeny bine. If ever you saw tho ribbon of tho Order of St. Patrick you would see tho colour as it should bo, oaio that yon could reproduce in wnter-ookmra it you mixed np a dark bright greon, and then added a fair touch of Prussian blue. Green, I may say, has on ideal use in bridal gowns, and in this relation is fashionable. Thus, a white bridal gown may bo embroidered round the hem with myrtle leaves, and the veil of the occasion treated in the same manner. Still, tho green requires to bo delicate, if only because of the contrast, and if a very light groan is chosen, it may be eomi-outlincd with a dark thread.

Though huge emongh sums are spout on <!mv;. it is very well said that there is a decided tendency the other way. Perhaps it will be fleeting, bnt thin won't le,w«,n the fact, as vouched for by the manager of one of the biggest London houses. Thin authority says that a democracy of drees is steadily bringing e.l«ut a democracy of vaVure. 'Whether five of fifty guineas is spent on a costume, tho lines are the same, and so, according to the story, many of those tfaraw of wealth, who were accustomed to always go for high prices, have begun to nak themselves, if it is really worth while? It seems preposterous that anyone should spend two hundred pounds on a ball dress, bnt, says my guide, such a mm is pot unknown, though tho (number who will go to such extravagant lengths is eteadify , diminishing. . - Tho troth is that this kind of thing Is broken down in the growing difficulty of being absolutely exclusive. Tho old order which separated what wore called cilafww, as. though with a wedge, is disappearing rapidly, and so as those of limited moans cannot dress up to tho level of thoao with more money than they

know what: to do with, tho latter are dressing down a bit. Probably the greatest extravagance of the extravagant nowadays i« in regard to lingerie. The fashionable woman of mean* will not grudge many guineas for belongings of this character, on the score that quality uud quantity combined mean* greyer pm roaal comfort. Millinery, however, r.!iJ] includes a very expen-ive section, mill hern perhaps the tendency referred to can hardly be marked. In fact, more money may be spent on gorxl hat* nowadays than was the ca*»c formerly, due I suppo*o to the extravagance of plumage.

Perfumery in moderate quantities is desirable. The nubble odour of a good extract, if bpariugly unul, is refreshing, and makes one feel better lor the enjoyment of it. lint wliile this is said of good perfumery, it is studiously withhold from the inferior article, wlxicii is pungent, overpowering, and not at all desirable. Some of the finest perfume:; arc also tho oldest; in fact, some extracts go buck many centuries. Similarly, the most noted perfumery—the place where such arc made—is ns old ns three hundred years, being located in Florence. It was founded by tho 'Dominican brotherhood in 1508, and lias conti'nncd ever since, though the commercial side to it is not so antiquated. A few of tho most famous perfumes wo have bear name* which havo been evolved from those of the monks who invented thorn. One in particular is a coined name from three names, tivo Christian and one surname. Good perfumery is expensive to buy, but not to use. That is to say, though it costs something more than poor perfumery, less of it effects the purpose, and tho odour lasts longer. As everyone knows, true economy res'iiilts from what a given outlay has been able to produce; and good perfomery illustrates the fact. Not only will it go farther and last longer, but it will give more pleasure, both to tho user and to those with whom she comes in contact. To have a perfume which is overpowering is not pleasant in any way; but, as said, to indulge in a very restricted use of tho best is to add to our comfort, and, in a sense, to our well-being.

A 'tween season frock host describes the one in the picture. Developing in a suitable striped material it consists of a, plain skirt and bonny little coat, short hip length, and semi-fitting. The feature about tho frock is tho way tho stripes aro varied. Thus the skirt is in panels with ono panel giving the stripes perpendicularly, alternating with another giving them vertically. The coat less the sleeves gives the perpendicular again, but tho straps are vertical, and the sleeve also vortical, though ;m t,Avj contrasting ways. Tho trimming

apart from this is limited to the velvet on the collar and cuffs, the buttons being covered with the material.

Fashionable frocks are seen in the finest of sheer linens, hand embroidered, and in French muslins, flowered and striped. Ultra fashionable ones are noted in Shantung silk, chiefly white, but also in pale blue, mauve, silver grey etc Silk embroidery dyed to match may be noted in conjunction with these delicate creations, and the two combined make a rich as well as a beautiful effect. Novel frocks are those made np in pale apricot Khrm-tung, and also in pale pink, with guipure of a coarse character em- . bro«k.red hero and there, with silk shadc<l from nprmot to brown. with ft- touch, now fund 1 again of fine gold thread. Such, treatment breathe® of summer, though by the way summer lias been breathing a little more than desirable lately, and \with lamentable results in ono Stale. The colours seen in linens are practically numberless, and pretty well all of of them are artistic. Rose tones are good, likewise blues, and the amethyst ahado is very choice. All the same, very popular shades are neutral biscuit, and white gives place to no other in point of choice and appearance. It ie t a linony summer and a lacey one, with great advantage to our sex, and what a debt wo owe that genius who succeeded in making a hat with a tropical brim fit the incsont season, in this country.

1 don’t think I over knew- a more suitable summer as regards both oostun.ory and millinery; by which X mean that I never knew both together to cater so sufficiently to tho season’s needs. If over we pause to dwell on this foaturo wo shall realise the absurdity of two slavishly following a European fashion which is hardly applicable to our climate at hhe time it reaches us. The cloche hat might just as easily have been some other shape, and then for the old martyrdom of having to wear something not quite in accordance with out needs. Properly elevated the cloche hat is remarkably pretty, tho old objection of a smothering brim quite overcome in this way. We cam rejoice indeed that Europe has its severe summers as well as these parte, os otherwise we shouldn’t bo considered at all. Having said which, a word of praise is merited by tho drapers’ buyers, who, always thoughtful enough, have this season shown a degree of tasto in their selections, surely entitling them to our lasting gratitude. It is no easy thing to bo a successful buyer, I am told, but apparently it is easy to get buyers who understand their business for all that.

Tho brace effect is very elegant in stylish gowns, especially evening and dinner gowns. An exceptionally nice model is.shown herewith, the skirt of a dark silk and tho brace of tho same over lawn with tho amount of lace tho sketch betrays. Or these materials may be varied, and , tho shades made loss pronounced than tho sketch indicates. The brace opens very prettily. 100. from the girdle to the shoulder, cord being employed between with a

am art effect in buttoning. Then the epaulette is thrice bordered with tho

same cord, and tho frills on the sieovo arc started similarly.

The latest embroideries are carried out with really surprisingly fine insults. There is any amount to choose from, in pastel tinted silks, the latest a/wepted colourings being Irequontly blended. Beads and ye a marked feature in many successful results, uie gable contrast striking a note that is invariablv pleasing. Galons and fancy bwds touch tho pinnacle of porltoaon, and the same may be said of fringes. Regarding the latter, they are in all lengths short, long, and medium, or cleo disposed in tassel effects. Gold and silver effect* are marked for ceitam wears, and on occasions, by the way. it is even possible to go for little metal tassels. It is rather difficult with some of tho confections one sees to say just where embroideries proper begin and end. Apparently the manufacturers have exercised a considerable independence of mind, and cared for little else than results. This, no doubt, is just as it should be, though in other days lesa care was given to this side, of tho question than to the rather stilted one .of what should be fashionable and what not.

I have before said that one requires to bo cauticms how one pins one’s faith to tho dictum of any special dress authority, pven when located in Paris. For latest examples a noted writer declares—ue other have done before—that .there is there an unmistakable evidence of smaller headgear. This is right enough, bo far as it goes, but the same authority says that the trend is to very small headgear, and this has already been .flatly contradicted All the eaine, it is instructive to note that she speaks of eccentric outlines, "more or less," to quote the qualification. Eccentric outlines may mean either of two things, or both of thorneccentric widths to the brim, and eccentric bendings. We are told that scalloped frill© of very soft silk hav> in Paris, anyhow, quite taken the place of tho wing-like bows of taffeta ribbon. Sometimes these frills manage to fashion the centre crown, but a less extravagant disposal is given in tho guise of a half ruche-shaped, high in front, and tapering at either side, this being tho style of tho floral adjustments. Such little confidences as the foregoing are, of course, in the way of a look ahead, ever a useful practice on tho part of those who would keep themselves thoroughly up to date.

A pretty little idea is a jabot fashioned for the immediate out of a small lace handkerchief, with the initial embroidered on the' most exposed end. Such promiscuously contrived neck decorations should be fastened with a gold pin or dainty brooch. In the same way a small silk handkerchief, with a decorative border, .may bo very satisfactorily used, and here, perhaps, the initial or monogram appears to better advantage. I presume you know what to do with a silk handkerchief that has seen its day, and yet has virtues if manipulated with a deftly used pair of scissors. Cut the neck part out in semi-circle on© side, and you have an admirable collar to fall at the back; cut the border off, with an inch or two of the centre material, and you can fashion a very pretty neck collar. But in the latter case, spar© two corners, which, if you will cut vertically, will be found of excellent service as the ends for a tie or neck scarf. The best thing to do ere you apply your scissors is stretch your handkerchief on a picec of paper, and go to work with a pencil, to see how any idea you have will work out.

Embroidery designs for blouses were never so beautiful. Going over a dozen the other day I selected this as the very prettiest 1 have seen. The charm is in the way tho butterflies

are disposed on the floral scrolls. On the front there is a largo one with two small one above it, one raising with the design either side. Then the cuff also has a butterfly of the lesser size and the collar one that is smaller still. He or she was an artist who evolved this design, and I think I am right in saying that it will take an artist at the work to reproduce it as correctly as is necessary.

Tiny knitted silk purses are pretty and acceptable accessories for tucking into the bodice of an evening robe. In. some instances, too. in these pocketices days, they are something of a necessity. The fashion started in England, in their admiration for their friends across the Channel, just now, the French have taken up the little silken “bourse’’ ns a kind of minor fad. Some of them are modelled just like ordinary purses, and some are like pouches. Others, again, are in the old style—finger shape, with tassels at each end, and mother-of-pearl or silver rings to keep the money in plato. The money, by the way, is generally the merest trifle a cab fare at most and in small coins, ae dainty nurses of this ohrncter are not to be used as vulgar wallets for a heap of silver and copper, and few odds and ends to keep them company.