MY LADY'S MIRROR

New Zealand Times, Volume XXX, Issue 6433, 3 February 1908, Page 2

MY LADY'S MIRROR

FROCKS AND FASHIONS. Incoming files state that the famous Pnquin of Paris has declared for gowns that will "make the wearer seem hiplcs*. To meet him the corsetieru has produced a corset of quite a different pattern to any ever seen before. It is loose around the waist, very tight around the hips, and’ tho gown that it carries accentual os the imx>ressicn so that the wearer of tho latest Pnquin is nearly straight up and down. It is said that tho modish Parisians are quite gone on the new style, especially those with very slender figures. Tho latter say that “hips” are vulgar, and that a woman of oieganc* should just betray tho fact that she is endowed with them and that is all. The lady who is inclined to corpulency speaks in a different strain, and declares that tho Frenchman who is now at tho head of the dressmaking should bo tried for high treason and sentenced accordingly. *‘No Paquin for mo, thank yuu/' the says, and Monsieur smiles on the safety of his pedestal, and says ho can do without her. Tho corset that makes this dres-s passible fastens in tho back. It is made of very (strung silk network, which is perfectly flexible, but cannot bo stretched out of shape. They say it is very lightly boned, and has scarcely any bulk at all, so that it produces a remarkable effect of slenderness. If a woman is at all slender who adopts this style, the natural projection of the hips is completely dissimulated by this new accessory of fashion in Paris. Good lace is like diamonds—an investment. To appear well-dressed in public is one thing; to bo considered an ornament of good taste in dress is another. In order to cultivate the latter opinion, nothing can lend one belter aid than tho introduction Of good laco on all one's smart gowns. It is the- single trimming which can not vulgarise, but on tho contrary it alwayto lifts the wearer above tho crowd. Thp outlay on good lace is considerable when it is made, but the laco returns apiofit in the long run. When the gown is), done the lace is removed. and wnen it ie renovated it is as good as ever It is a great mistake to wear laco until it is much soiled, as this makes the renovation, difficult. Far bettor tho instant it shows signs of wear to remove it, have it mended if it wants mending, and then renovated for another frock. Many women who are fastidious over- their belongings add to their lacebox onco a year—a little at a time, and then of the best quality. By this means tho expenditure on laco decreases with time., and if the lacc is kept in perfect condition it will not deteriorate, but on tho contrary, may even gain in value. Real laco is very different to imitation and every woman of refinement knows it. Real laco proclaims itself at once even to tho uninitiated, and practically no ono at all can tfedr real laco without looking the better for its possession. But it wants care and attention, and if gone at all, as tho result of wear, requires to be mended before it is used againMany readers will rejoice to know that tho largo hat is going to stay in fashion right through to tho end otf autumn, if not longer. "Wide brims, are the rule, and will continue to be so, with the result that we can look ahead with no fear of any present purchase soon losing the hall mark of up-to-datenc&s. Al present embroidered linen hats arechoice with linen or lingerie Docks. -One of the simplest and prettiest is shown in

the illustration—a modified mushroom, well elevated on the head, with the hair puffed out as freely as possible. The trimming is a linen scarf so disposed ns to wreath the hat with two rosettefolds at the sides, the hat being exposed ami tho silk again drawn across tho crown. This much may be a figured silk, and perhaps should be, but an additional embellishment is given in a plain silk scarf, with handkerchief border, which is caught, up at tho side to fall os shown. The hat is one of many varieties under the same heading, but tho shape is a standard. The craze for novelties can be carried a little too far. It is so carried by Mile. Ligurin, a Russian actress of note. It appears that she has been engaged half a dozen times, but did 'not return the ring. Tho six badges of affection, therefore, she; has had made into a necklace, and thiis she wears, as the Red Indian wears the scalps which tell of hip piowess in battle. The rings, though of different make and stylo, are valuable, and are cleverly arranged with a double chain, which keeps them in position. The jewels vary, but the diamond is predominant, and the ring with tho largest diamond is worn in the centre. How Mile. Ligurin came to break six engagements isn’t stated, but rosumably she found the swains involved less satisfactory than their rings, for it would hardly do to suggest that they camo acourtmg and then ran off of their own accord. If she becomes engaged a seventh time, and tho seventh gentleman meets tho fate of his predecessors, she intends to %'ear this particular ring as a pendant to-the central one of the others. But perhaps the sight of the six “scalps” around the fair one’s neck will warn the intending seventh away, and save him both his declaration and his ring.

Tho dainty French girl ahvaj-s has admirers, and the latest writes of her as follows:—Among the many girls one meets in one’s travels the French are generally tho best dressed. A French girl may spend very little on dress, but her good taste makes her always look dainty and smart. Sho knows tho value of pretty little collars, neat waist-belts, etc. which sho often makes out of scraps of chiffon, silk, and lace that less clover’ girls would waste. If she can afford but a single good dress, she takes care to choose a material of a dart colour that will wear well, and that may bo brightened up by a dainty waistband and a pretty light cravat. As a rule, she thinks more of her hat than of her dross, and she would never choose lier hat merely because it was pretty and fashionable, but would make sure that it suited her face and went well with the costume to be worn.

Thousands of women have a lace-box, a ribbon bag, etc. . but not many collect tho’ better class of buttons from wornout frocks Of cruise, tome buttons, even when good are not worth collecting, due to tho fact that they have received wear marks. But frequently a handsome set of buttons are as good at the finish of the frock they adorn as when first attached. To cast these aside, therefore is sheer extravagance; and so they should bo removed and stored foi future use. What is more, they sometimes gain in. value by the keeping, due to their great novelty, liven when one or two buttons are marked, it is as well to remove and keep the rest, ns it doesn’t follow that the original number will l>e necessary on tho second occasion. Some of the buttons one gets on firstclass gowns are really works of art, and these should Ire kept for that reason. Twelve months later, if you act

\as wisely as you should, you will find your buttons a little bit of a treasure, which you can reapply with great advantage.

An extremely pretty summer goods frock appears below, the panelling being of the material, but clear silk swathing the vest part and figured silk constituting the side, and sleeve pieces. The key pattern is worked in a graduated form in either narrow velvet ribbon, or with cord the latter for preference.

A choice result will follow if the material ie a linen, tho key being a braid, and tho parts shown on the bodice being lace. In such case tho panelling may be of different foundation though in very slight contrast, if any. Tho girdlo cither way is smart, being broken by the panel in front above which it crosses as an end to fasten on the cade under n rosette. Again a summer material may bo used for tho skirt mid the bodice less the coverings with plain silk across tho vest and tho same fer the sleeves, the cuff being of tho material again. Enormous hows may he worn on some of the present day hats. A favourite bow is a severe one as to shape, that goes right across the hat. side to side. Say that tho. ribbon around the crown is a more band two inches deep. It is then tied in a neck-tie form in front, and the loop- reach to the side level, but do not go around tho hat. Fixing them is not difficult, as may be imagined, and the effect is decidcly nice on a morning hat. If desired, tho ends may be carried along tho loops or allowed to drop on tho brim of the hat, to which they will be stitched to keep them in position. I have seen some really immense bows of this character, and some of them—not all—have been most artistic

The other day I told you how to clean a white straw hat. When you have a black straw hat the process is quite different. If it has faded and became dingy, first of all brush it well, so as to remove every particle of dust. Then mix a little gum and water, mid add a trifle of good black ink. and paint the hat over lightly with a soft brush. If tho hat is a dark colour, but not black, discard the ink and use just the gum water. This will give the straw a new appearance, and to the extent that it does gives the hat a new lease of life. You will notice with many of tho straw hats you got that they have been varnished with something, ivhich makes them bright and glossy. Consequently there' is no harm in using tho gum water, which, if in tho right proportions, gets the straw hack to something of its original condition. With a little care following on some forethonglit, it is wonderful what you can do in the way of renovating hat- that have already served you with more or loss loyally. It is of no use discarding anything that has more life in it, and so it becomes thv oaieful woman to indulge in those little tricks of resourcefulness, when they cost so very little, and save to very much.

A modified Holly Varden is a hat which found favour on the other side of tho world at the time which corresponds with this in our country. I have to say “Doll/ Varden,” because I cannot pick upon any ether name that describes it so well. It bends over tho ton of the head, with the sides well down, and right across it is a wreath of roses, with loops of ribbon between each flower. This ribbon comeis down either side in strings, and loop-fastens at tiro back, level with tho collar Here it fixes in a bow, with short ends. The hat looks queer enough, yet is quite pretty, especially on the head of -a youthful wearer. It is one of those oddities in millinery that break tho monotony of standard shapes, anu that perhaps is part of its recommendation. The straw- used may bo either fine or coarse, but the roses are largo, and the loops of ribbon the same. A good idea is for the roses bo zig-zag, an-l tho ribbon ditto, the effect, viewed from abovr, being that one rose will appear forward and its corresponding loop backward and the next couple appear the reverse- way—the loop forward and the rose backward, Two largeheaded pins are used, one from one side and one from tho ether.

A simple hat is the p'rescnt one which is easily constituted, as the sketch shofrs. The frame is silk, covered with n dark silk crown and brim border. This silk is additionally swathed through a buckle, and one side is taken up with a "spray" of tho dark silk in varying loops, whilo tho other has a group of roses fairly full blown, and in any case large. Practically this describes tho

hat which is one of those morning varieties so easy of manipulation at homo if not bought ns shown from tho milliner. Tho lining of the hat is simple, and the eilk used in the trimming is employed at the back to give a finishing touch there.

A pretty idea carried out on a bride’s gown was in tho embroidery, of flying doves all around tho skirt. Tho skirt had a zig-zag flounce line of embroidery

quite two foot from the ground. From bore the material was tucked for a foot, and on the plain foot of material below doves wore worked singly right around the garment. I don't know that I have hoard of this idea before, but it seems, peculiar that it was never hit on earlier, seeing tho possibilities in the design. In fact a dress could be much more elaborately worked with the same decoration fo,* the chief event in a woman’s life, and not be overdone. Then take the train, which could be very artistically tioatod if time, pains, and money wor3 of small consideration. The doves may lite-size, or reduced size, this being a matter of taste, though speaking for myself, I incline to what is natural, which means life-size.

Combinations of thin and heavy materials are a pretty fad with some of our sex. A skirt may bo of chiffon or grenadine with a wide application of silk or velvet at the foot. There is a dual economy in this. In the first place, the applied material prevents tho basic ono from cutting tire first low wears. Then again it holds it down in good posit ion, thereby maintaining the set; our muy even say tho “hang.” 4 When silk or velvet is* applied in this way, it is as well to have a corresponding' application in some form on tho bodice, as roully good dressing demands that what ono section of a frock carries should also bo carried by the other, oven though on a modified .scale. And by the way this applies to design as well as to material. There must be no clashing for tho best effect in either, but a complete idoi carried out in a complete or ''.concrete'* way.

Tho Japanese have been doing a lot in tho Old World to popularise some of their special dress ideas, and, ns we know, wo have adopted tho main one out here. If the Japs wore hats, it is possible that wo should see some adaptation even in this direction, but eo fur their resourcefulness has failed beyond the point mentioned. Now, some time ago i saw a set of butterflies made of silk on extremely fine wire, with a pin of nccdle-lika thinness an Inch and a half long. Something passed my eye a littlo while ago which was fruitful of a suggestion—why not pins of this character fo«- the hat? The jeweller has happened on a blouse eet, and herein is the idea in another direction. I can picture the possession of half a dozen Japanese fashioned butterflies of tho kind mentioned, small of necessity, and yet as exquisite as they are able to fashion. Put your hat on, and use the ordinary pins, as the mode decrees; but say that you have those “flics” in addition—take one. and run it through ono of the petals of that fine rose at the side, selecting a placo whoro tho insertion will not damage the flower. The picture presented is a tiny butterfly resting on tho rose, and’ if the former is of Japanese make, thou it is quito believable that liaidly' anyone ecu Id tell it from the real thing. Of course there would be tliis to give the thing away—whoever saw a real butterfly go to an artificial flower?

Ycrry pretty l>odice treatments aro shown on present gowns. This, as you know, is a very favourite method, the side nieces assisting the figure ae well as .improving the garment. The material of a frock of this character may bo plain or figured, a dot or stripe being nice. Tho side pieces them are of silk, and in this coco the fdlk is lighter than tho material in shade to servo as a back-* ground for tho trefoil pattern applied

in tho manner demonstrated. A vest cffoot is framed with lace insertion which, with tho pendant trefoil, suggests a dccorntivs collar, plain silk filling above it, tucked to the collar itself. The trefoil necessarily appears on the skirt on a broken flounce band of the silk. This comes round to the front, turns cither side with a good space between, tho pieces thou descending to the foot.

Tho sash_ is a wonderful improvement with certain dresses, but she must be young whr ventures ou one of any proportions. Somehow or other the flowing ends give a very smart appearance to tin frock especially when this, is of muslin or other light material. Tho eash is really a tying girdle, which means that Caro should be taken in its folding, and especially in its tying. If the latter is done in n hurry, then oven if tho tic is right" it means a very short life for tho sash. It is always better to get someone else to tic your sash, conditionally that they know how to do it ns well as yourself The how can bo made artistic or tho reverse, and you have the disadvantage that yon can't see it when it is in position. Daintily-fiflowcred patterns aro pretty, though there are some pleasing eliects to bo got iu tiro single shade. Of the latter, selection may be made which will permit of embroidered ends—ever n desirable finish, by the way.

I note that crocheting is more than over in favour with the up-to-date young lady who taken a pride in the little etceteras of drese. The new crocheted four-in-hand lies arc charming, and useful besides. Another novelty, much in vogua thla season, is the crocheted pocket to be worn with, fancy gowns, usually matching the latter. These are sometimes made of one colour of silk, with largo monegram done in another, or a pretty idea is to crochet the flower of the mouth of birth, done in a contrasting colour. The more intricate pockets are crocheted in vari-colourod beads. These pockets are Attached to a girdle similarly crocheted. This girdle may bo made in any stylo and width to suit the individual figure.