MY LADY’S MIRROR

New Zealand Times, Volume XXIX, Issue 6315, 16 September 1907, Page 5

MY LADY’S MIRROR

Paris lays it down that the short skirt for walking purposes is the only really fashionable one. The trailing robe is to be limited to afternoon teas and reception©, and to home functions generally. Tho short skirt has naturally played into tho hands of the shoo artist, and so we note a whole host of novelties as promises for the warmer season. It has been decreed in ultra smart gowning that both shoe© and stockings should match tho costume. The favourite effects in Paris were combinations of black aud white or brown, used in a variety of effect©, while even blue has had its suggestions. For functional wear in summer what would you say to linen shoos, embroidered with silk, to match tiie gown? Such have been worn in the centre mentioned, where, alro, there has been a run on what is described as tho great novelty of the last few years—shoes plaited in two colours, and outlined with low golosh-like straps of patent leather. It is said that the style is "daring,** and one can easily believe it. Also it is said that the best shoes of this class are dreadfully expensive, and that may be equally easily believed. Reverting to the linen ■shoe, I take it that the material is a : heavy one and strong. I should say that a linen shoo as strong as a canvas would be very choice, but, of course, the colour would have to suit the economies of walking.

Stripes will be very strongly in evidence, as I have already mentioned. Whatever the manufacturers intended, a line has been struck which will allow of no end of artistic manipulation. The best houses have been working on the stripes in ordered costumes of the best class, with the object of gilding the lily without ridiculous excess. Thus striped gowns for walking wear have been very courageously cut' in the tiptop shops of Paris, and the hint is good here, as'l presume our own clever makers will follow in the same path. Each gore has been cut and placed, with the stripes running in opposite directions, yet meeting with absolute exactness. Skill is required in any such treatment, but Worth and Paquin - went much farther by using the stripes perpendclicularly in costumes partaking of the Princesse, and working the stripes from the hem up to the waist to nearly vanishing point, then widening again over the bust, and narrowing, once more, but very slightly, to the shoulder. Of course, we can see how this would bo done, by infinite labour at the back of the material, and no end of fixing on the face. In such a way a striped dress could be graduated as stated, with tho correctness shown in Nature’s treatment of the stripes of the zebra. But—imagine tho oost I

Flowers and feathers nestle snugly together in tho new spring hats, entirely in harmony with each other, the one breathing of the departing Season, tho other symbolising approaching summer. A, straw hat will be all flowers on one side and a mass of feathers on the other. The favourite combinations of this sort are roses with ostrich plumes, but other flowers and other feathers are combined with equal attractiveness and cachet. While the tendency is against very high hats, it is still far enough the fashion, when hats

will be .worn far. back and low. to introduce the possible in the other.line* This serves to show what a groat u*Q can be mad© of plumes,' and how vertf difficult it is to'overdo the pluming in various' dispositions. The treatment is a "shower," and' silk', is the only assistant, in an artistic swathing at the side and back. .The-hat. itself is a singlecolour straw, with a -border above and below, but it may also be a two-colour straw,. which is • pretty and attractive in this‘form. Say, thon, that the hat is cream-coloured Milan straw,, with a blue border, .and the plume whit© and blue respectively, the silk being of either or both.

The. "yellow peril" in the great cities of the old world % has been the craze for that primary colour. From palest primrose to saffron it has had its vogue in ■ London * to an extent unprecedented in colour fancies. . A sulphur shade has been the favourite, though, people in the smartest set have not scrupled to appear with enough bright yellow on them to suggest a miniature sunset, where this is yellow, - and- not - red. - While yellow is one of the three great primaries, it is single in this regard—that very, few people would car© to adopt it except in a modified way. Blue you dan .have in almost any ©hade, and red'also, unless in vermillion; but yellow is tho colour of trouble, quite apart from th© fact that it is used at th© masthead to tell that story. For all tho reasons that are expressed and unexpressed. we are not likely to be inundated with any ' strong pronouncements in this direction.

Th© last time Queen Alexandra returned from a - Continental visit she. imported a new and artistic fad—the miniature button. I don't ‘by . this refer to .size, but to character,; th© .button being , an ordinary one, but really a frame for an' insetted miniature picture. The fashion, it; is authoritatively stated, was started by , a society, of ladies to help the many poor miniature artists in Europe, and, as a result, .a style became popular to have heads - of- the betterknown members of the Greek or Roman mythology. Still, I. expect that the revival of the cameo had r something to do with the suggestion; and, if. this has resulted in all that is claimed for it£ presumably mechanical means will conclude the fashion. All the same. Queen Alexandra appeared the other day in a gown tho blouse of which was designed to display nine buttons, and these were really little framed miniatures of the portraits of her grandchildren. Of course, it is impossible to say what a fad like this is worth without knowing how such, things would. look. At -the more reading it is rather: discounted.

A little’ while ago I mentioned that the old-time marquis© parasol .was to be revived, and, as some endorsement, I clip the following frorii a letter by that noted fashion expert, the "Countess Carlo." Her words run : "The tiny little marquise parasols which used to b© carried by our grandmothers arc again coming into fashion. It is, strange to say, the automobile which has helped to revive this fashion. It has been found that the parasols are particularly convenient , to carry, as thev fold in the middle and at the top, so as to protect the holder from the sun 'and the ‘ wind, and do not interfere with the driver in the exasperating and dangerous way that bigger parasols have a knack of doing. Old and mounts are in great demand; for these parasols, and have become very expensive. It i« often : said that if one

can keep things long enough, sooner or later they will be the fashion once more, but who would have thought that these ridiculous little sunshades would over again be, the mode?'*

A curious question was recently decided in a foreign court. . The director of a large shop dismissed one of his assistants becaiise she used perfumes to such an extent that it made him, he said, "almost faint.** The girl brought an action for wrongful dismissal, and, when asked by the judge if the allegation were true, she said, "No; I merely us»o a drop on my handkerchief and another on my blouse." Then she handed a bottle to the judge, aud said, "This is the scent; I use no other.** And his Honour sniffed, and sniffed again, and then again and again. "Why, it*s delightful!" he cried, and the jury later agreed with him. Result, the artful young thing won her case, aud got fair damages.

No prettier design could be evolved than this one, a model equally suitable in muslins, lawns, organdies, silks, or voiles. Tho applied hands may bo of silk, velvet, or braid when the gown is of silk or voile, and of embroidered linen, swiss galloons, or laco when tho gown is of sheer cotton or linen. In firmer qualities of linen or cotton bands of tho material in a contracting colour

vould prove effective. If a material has a stripe the straps and bands should be cut bias, thus forming a very attractive trimming. The top of the bodice has a yoke of lace, mad© open around tho neck, with the wavy outline of the lac© as a finish. Two rows of gilt braid are set around this yoke, and twisted into circles at intervals. The bottom of tho lace yoke is sewed down upon a fitted voke of plain, tan-coloured silk, cut in shaped tabs around its lower portion, and stitched around the edges*. Curved pieces of silk extend from beneath the front of this silk yoke, and turn up on each side the bodice- in the shape of jacket fronts. A little lace frill edges the inner seam: and they are further embellished with buttons" and buttonhole loops. The gown is made in Princeese shape, with small pksats stitched like pin tucks from above the waist to the hips on the side, and some distance below that point in front. This arrangement of tucks makes the gown fit closely at the top, and flares well at the bottom. As for tho treatment of the skirt, it is evidenced. in tho design—cascade and straps making up, a very beautiful garment.

Tho poke bonnet will be seen later, in occasional instances, as I previously remarked. The picture shows a little girl’s poke bonnet—an American creation, by the way—of ‘very simple construction, and vet equally charming effect. The *hat is of straw braid, and fanciful, and th© faring is of blue chiffon, trimmed with ' a mass of ' blue forget-me-nots

above and below, as demonstrated. The inside is as pretty as the outside, and the • latter- is exhibited in the side and back view together, to show the shape and treatment as fully as is desirable. A ribbon rosette is what goes against the forget-me-nots on top, to give the hat its finishing touch, and the rosettes at the back, so suggestive of an old Scandinavian fashion, are of ribbon also, though not necessarily of the same shade.

It is impossible to follow any guide slavishly, since there ar© so many all taking different paths, though these, are of. the same complexion. Thus it ie wise to note what all have to say, and judge .according to . personal tastes. Touching flowers and ribbons, however. It sceme to be the popular idea that wo shall havo a run. * Hence ray annexation of the following:— * Flowers, ribbons, tulle, and feathers .are, as usual, the trimmings chiefly relied on. for the beautifying of opring hats. With regard to ribbons, these are of a thicker, heavier quality than formerly, some of them partaking almost of the nature of poult de sole, and showing a decided rib of grain. 01 floral chine ribbons there are many beautiful varieties, and the velvet-em-bossed broche ribbons are among quite the handsomest of their kind and are gathered up into effective loose crowns on com© of th© new crinolines and soft straww, as well as being used for bows and draneries. Quantities of tulle are used for ruches, scarves, and cachcpeignes, and chiffon too, is largely employed for a similar purpose. As to feathers, the lonfr. sweeping ostrich feathers carry off the palm; bu + tbe paradise plume, dyed to the most delicate or brilHant colours, and coque are also in the front rank of fashion. , _ Flowers of all kinds, sizes, and colours, may perhaps be quoted .as th» favourite trimmings for the new season's millinery. ' are. a« usual. used more th*r> anv other flower; and the** vary from the button-re*© to the full-blown cab bage variety, and pansies, forget-me-nots, carnations, and sweet peas in velvet and silk are also much used by milliners. Fern fronds are th© chief novelty in th© way of foliage.