AN IMPERIAL SOLDIER ON NEW ZEALAND.

New Zealand Times, Volume LXXI, Issue 4395, 28 June 1901, Page 7

AN IMPERIAL SOLDIER ON NEW ZEALAND.

IMPRESSIONS OF WELLINGTON. From a series of letters contributed to the “Devon and Exeter Gazette, ■’ by Sergeant Rouse, a member of the Ist R.V., who accompanied the Imperial troops who visited Australia and Now Zealand in th e beginning of the present year, we quote some extracts that should prove’of interest to our readers. Under date 9th February, the Sergeant writes ; We arrived alongside the Wellington wharf about 10 a.m. A lot of people, but no demonstration. This is an Irish town, Christchurch is English, and Dunedin Scotch. It was, very cold early in the morning, and the hills were snowcapped. Sunday, February 10th.—We paraded in review order yesterday- at 2.45 p.m. The cavalry fitted their saddlery on horses at 1.30., the latter being supplied by local troops. The whole started at 3 p.m., and did the usual street march, finishing by »n assembly in the small park, in which a platform was erected to accommodate the Premier of New Zealand, the Alayor of Wellington and other local dignitaries. Some of the Une troops were put through the manual and firing exercises, physical drill with rifles, and a few other movements; the cavalry contributed to the show by going through the sword and lance exorcises (dismounted). We finished by an advance in review order by troops in line of quarter column. The Alayor then addressed us, extending a cordial welcome. He was followed by the Prime Minister, Mr Seddon, who made too long a speech, and wo got tired before he finished. The crowd at last made such a noise, and kept crying, “Time,” “Time,” etc., that he closed abruptly. We returned to the ship, changed clothes, and marched to the Drill Hall for public dinner. This did not take long, and men were then at liberty till midnight. With two others of ours I went to the Gaiety Variety Theatre, and spent a quiet two hours. Like ether parts of the colony some things-are very dear, one sergeant paying 2s for a handkerchief worth 4d or 5d at home, 5s to tap pair boots, no drink less than 6d, etc. The experience of the day has been disappointing. There has certainly been a lack of that warmth of welcome so noticeable in other towns visited. Today, Sunday, is wretchedly wet, and every prospect of its continuing. The harbour is full of ships, including two ships of war. Most of the houses seen from the deck hav 6 red tiled roofs, which, with background of green covered mountains, make a pretty picture. About 11 a.m. weather changed for the better, and dinner over I went ashore, and with a sergeant of Royal Fusiliers started for the Volunteer Camp, which we reached after a pleasant walk of four miles.

The Wanranganoyee (? Wanganui) Rifles were preparing to leave for their home, a distance of 260 miles, to welcome us at the same, place to-morrow. I was introduced to a sergeant-major and a lieutenant of the same regiment. The latter, in the course of a walk back to town,. proved to be a t e l e S ra ph clerk holding the position of relieving postmaster. Of course, we chummed. They both begged us to attach ourselves to them on reaching destination to-morrow. Two lines of railway run to it, one by a private Company, the other by Government line. We go by the former, being the shorter route. Spent a pleasant day, and retired e arly. Monday, 11th.—Revielle at 4.45 a.m., breakfast 5.30, entrain for Ranwanganoyu (? Wanganui) at 6.45 a.m. We expect to arrive there at 3.30 p.m. At 7.15 a.m. wo started for the Maori coun. try, and almost at onoe began to penetrate, by a series of short tunnels, the numerous rugged mountains which nearly surround Wellington. They are very high, and the deep ravines between them, with their miniature and larger water courses, looking like a silver thread, make a seen® which would delight lovers of Lydford Gorge or Becky Falls. Passing through Porirua, in the rear of which is a large wooden-built asylum, on the platform were gathered half a dozen male and female Maoris to see us pass. They are a fine race of people. By a gradual ascent we reach th© summit of a mountain, from whence we view the ocean at a great distance below us. A winding track on the side of a precipitous cliff gradually brings us to its level. A brief stay at Pairikariki (Paikakariki), and then a more flat country on the left. A large quantity of flax plant grows alongside the railway. Here and ' there clumps of the cabbage tree and giant fern trees are noticed. At Levin we stayed ten minutes, a large number of people, mostly horsemen, being present. About twenty young Maori girls, each carrying large ferns, gave the Poi war dance. At 10.30 we arrived at Palmerston, where breakfast was provided. One long table, the whole length of the platform, was soon surrounded by hungry men (troops only had coffee on board before starting). A capital meal was served. On board in good order, and off again. The Maori women in this part blacken their lips, and on the chin have painted in black a tribal symbol. At Palmerston a Devonian made himself and wife known to me. He is the son of Mr Ryder, of Lympstone, his wife hailing from Whimple. Only two minutes’ chat, and off again. AT WANGANUI. We arrived at Wanganui about 2.50 p.m., and, after sending baggage to th e Drill Hall, marched to the racecourse and formed up in front of the grand stand. The Mayor, in a loyal speech, welcomed us. The scene in front of us was very novel. About 150 to 200 Maoris T inen and women, the former in war paint and dress, the latter wearing a profusion of what locked like weeping willow, were seated on the ground in two groups. Our advent was the signal for a great war dance, during which they worked .themselves into a state of frenzy. The King of the Maoris (sic!) is very old and feeble, and was seated, a bodyguard waiting on him. He mad e a speech in native language, which was interpreted for our benefit. It was quaint. He alluded to the great grief felt by his peopl e at the loss of the Queen. The women then gave a dance, and Maori school children sang a song of welcome. We were dismissed for tea, which was provided in a number of pretty kiosks. We were amused to watch the Maori women enjoying their pipe. A march past and procession through the streets to the Drill Hall followed. Here about 500 stretchers had been placed, a palliasse and one blanket per man. After disposing of our accroutrements and enjoying a wash-up the different detachments wer e detailed to the cafes and hotels in the town for supper at 7 p.m.

All the men were made honorary members of the Cosmopolitan Club, and they were treated royally. I went over a Post-office here with Lieut. Redmond, and afterwards quickly patrolled the town. Kit packed and sent to station at 6 a.m. on the 12th. We breakfasted at 6.30 a.m., and entrained two : hours later for our return to Wellington. I cannot help thinking the Government ought; to allow the troops Colonial pay. What they, get now is not sufficient to

pay 6d for ginger beer, Is for hair cutting, 6d to shave, and everything else proportional. About 11.30 we stopped at Fielding for twenty minutes, and paraded outside the station for a few words from the Mayor. A quantity of fruit was distributed among the men. This was much appreciated, the sun having shone brilliantly for some A long, tiring journey closed at 7.15 p.m. WELLINGTON VINDICATED. In a subsequent letter Sergt. Rouse says ; —My last letter mentioned the apparent lack of warmth in our reception by the Wellingtonians. I also wrote it was an unpleasant morning. My opinion proved to hav e been hastily formed, so put it down to the weather, please. The people, however, want to know you first, and ice one© broken there was no need to grumbl© at the seeming coolness. Our departure was witnessed by thousands of people, who crowded th© Customs wharf to its full capacity. Fruit, cakes, sweets were poured in for us, and we were swamped with periodicals. The latter will bo welcome later. There was continuous cheering till a great distance separated us. VISIT TO NAPIER. Thursday, 14th, 7.40 a.m.—Entering Napier Harbour, which is bay shaped and about eight miles wide at th© mouth. The appearance of the town from this point is flat, the ground rising to right and left of it and in rear. It is a beautiful morning, sun hot, with a good sea breeze. It is Valentine’s Day, but .we have no.t yet heard th© “postman’s knock.” 10 a.m.—Now embarking on the Government steamer Tutanekai, after a wait under arms of an hour. We landed safely and marched to the town, a long, dusty road, with a perpendicular cliff of about.loo feet on our right; perambulated the streets of the pretty town, listened to addresses from th© Premier {Mr Seddcn, who turns up everywhere), the Mayor, and Primate, thence a long walk to the Recreation Ground, whore a grand luncheon was attacked and thoroughly enjoyed. Subsequently there was a grand exhibition or th© “Haka” war dance of Maoris, who, to the number of about a hundred, in war paint, gave a first-rate performance. Tried a chat with several, and succeeded in obtaining two of thencelebrated sacred feathers. One, th© Huhuhi (? huia), is like a magpie’s, black with 'white tip. Colonel Crole Wyndham was presented with the horse h e rode by Mrs Donnelly, a Maori lady of great wealth, and who is reported to be very charitable. After giving the usual display we returned to the quay and got safely to the ship, taking on board the seventh, horse. We steamed away at 10 p.m. Feb. 15.—A most beautiful morning—cloudless sky, sea like glass, and brilliant sunshine; boat making good speed, light airs. We have a Maori officer on board, and at 9.30 a.m. all non-commis-sioned officers and men paraded for instruction in war danc© and song. It was laughable, for what with rolling of eyes, putting out of tongues, weird cries, and movements of the body, you could not help it ■ yet it is supposed to be most solemn. W© lost sight of land hours ago, and have been accompanied at varying distances by a Government steamer with the Premier on board. He wants to make another speech.