PICTURESQUE MARLBOROUGH.

New Zealand Times, Volume LXVII, Issue 3330, 12 January 1898, Page 2 (Supplement)

PICTURESQUE MARLBOROUGH.

(T3t 'Wandeker.] There are lovers of ease, there are lovers of pleasure, and there are lovers of excitement and travel in this world, people fond of sight seeing, and others fond of beautiful scenery, and among the latter class you can place the writer. Having been told there was something worth seeing in the way of beautiful scenery across the Straits I found myself on board that favourite Union Co.’s steamer, the Penguin, leaving ■Wellington one rather boisterous afternoon. Being a social kind of being 1 am not at all averse to meeting fresh acquaintances, for between you and me I am one of those who firmly believe there exists between one warm human heart and another the electric chain of a secret understanding, which, if cultivated, often develops into a lasting friendship. Looking among the passengers I was soon attracted towards a man of bronzed but gentlemanly appearance, who seemed, like myself, to be travelling alone, and we were soon joining in a friendly chat. I was pleased to hear that he was taking a trip across to the Sounds to revive the memories of his youth, for, as he remarked, although many years had elapsed since he had left the Sounds, his early impressions were just as vivid as they had been when he first saw these beautiful places. My companion proved most agreeable and intelligent, evidently one of those who looked forward some distance on the progress of the colony, for, as we crossed the Straits he pointed out that the groat channel service of the future would be from Queen Charlotte Sound to Karori, a few miles north of Cape Terawhiti, thus avoiding “The Eip" and the fearful heavy seas often to be encountered off Wellington Heads; in fact, as he said, with a smart channel boat and a short branch line of railway into the city, there was nothing to stop passengers leaving Pioton and landing in Wellington in less than three hours. By this time, the wind, having steadily increased, most of the passengers occupied horizontal positions, but we could see the weather was more moderate as we approached the South Island, and before long we found ourselves evidently running right into the land, but to our joyful surprise the bold and rugged shore seemed to part all at once, and the steamer glided peacefully into one of the grandest waterways which can be found—evidently caused through some heavy volcanic eruption separating the land many years ago—in any part of the world. As we sped along, my friend, who seemed quite at home, pointed out the celebrated old whaling station Te Awaite, and entertained me with many thrilling stories about events which happened there in the early days, for this was the place where the great native warrior chiefs, Te Eauparahara and Beniata, landed after they returned from the Wairau massacre—and enjoyed their leisure according to old native customs. As the steamer went steaming along, panorama after panorama opened out, only to be closed again, but each one surpassing the other, both in magnitude and lakelike beauty, as cosy nooks and pebbly beaches were in evidence all round. Bnt to appreciate them thoroughly you want, as my friend pointed out, to have plenty of leisure, a good boat, and stop when and where yon like. " Yes,” he said, “look at that delightful little spot. It is over thirty years ago since I landed there. The white men were few, but the half-castes more numerous, and some of the girls real types of beauty. Ah !” and he sighed heavily.

" Those were the times. I recollect it well, just as if it were yesterday when we lauded. One very pretty girl offered to ■how me where I could get some peaches, and taking me into the bush a few chains we found ourselves under one of the moat tempting peach trees you could find in any garden. The fruit was just ripe and luscious in taste, especially on a warm summer afternoon, and I passed some happy hours in such pleasant company.” Again he sighed and remarked, " Yes, life was worth living in those days." Now as we looked round we found ourselves crossing an arm of the Sound, named the North-Entrance, where the vessels pass through when going to Nelson from Fioton, bat as we went up the Sound bay after bay was opened, and a voice in a loud tone called out “There’s Fioton.” Everyone rushed forward to get a glimpse of this charming little spot, calm, beautiful Ficton, formerly known as Waitohi and possessing one of the most beautiful harbours in the whole world. Here again the local knowledge of my friend seemed most elastic and extensive, for he told me that Fioton had a great future before it, in fact was destined to be “ The Liverpool of the South." Its geographical position was bound to make it the northern terminus of the main line through the South Island, and thus it must be some day a great commercial centre. We landed here and obtained very comfortable quarters. You can obtain a boat or steam launch and go up and down the Sound, fish, and enjoy yourself in many ways. I have neither time nor space to give you a full description of this pretty little town, nestling as it does under the lofty hills, but it has a full municipal council, a well conducted paper. The Press, while the balmy air is most attractive and you cannot do better than have a quiet day or two there. By this time myself and friend had arranged to do the remainder of our trip together, and we left in the train next morning for Blenheim, and as there is rather a steep grade to rise over, the Saddle, our iron horse kept snorting and puffing away until at last we reached the summit and descended into the Waitohi Valley, which is about twelve miles long and three miles wide, with comfortable little homesteads dotted here and there, one on a slight eminence being the residence of Colonel Baillie, who has resided there for many years. This valley has been very heavy forest country, and evidently the woodman’s axe, sawmill, and firebrand have done their pioneer work not many years ago, but passing rapidly onward, as this train goes over ten miles an hour, suddenly my friend again called my attention to an object built up on a mount and told me that it was a monument erected to the memory of those who were

killed at the Wairau massacre, many interesting details of which he gave me. I should like very much to have gone up to it and seen the names of those who perished on that memorable day, but there was no time to stop, as we were now opening up the fertile valley of the Marina and the Wairau, a good-sized plain containing some 60,000 acres of some of the richest land in the colony. It is all cut up into small farms and laid out into smiling paddocks, where the feed seemed to be most luxuriant. My friend informed me there was not another area of the same capacity in New Zealand that produced such a quantity of crops annually. Blenheim is the principal town in Marlborough; but, having been built at the confluence of three rivers, the residents suffer a great deal from floods during the wet season, although we were informed that the river conservation scheme had so far proved fairly successful, and, when completed, would be an invaluable boon to the district. My friend said at his last visit the town was a miniature Christchurch, but since they had out down all the willows its beauty had largely disappeared. We learned here that the Government was in earnest about acquiring some of the large runs and cutting them up for closer settlement, which will be a great boon to many young people anxiously looking forward to making a homo for themselves. Next morning we left for Havelock and Nelson by the Eoyal mail coach, which is one of the best up-to-date services in the colony, making its trips with the regularity of a railway. The road is a very good one for vehicles or bicycles, and a great many tourists travel by these coaches. It took us three hours travelling up through Eenwioktown across the Opawa and Wairau rivers, through the Kaituna Valley, to Havelock. This is a very pretty little town, situated at the foot of Mount Takakarika, which rears its lofty summit considerably over two thousand feet, and forms the head of that lovely sheet of water known as the Felorus Sound. The town is not celebrated beyond handing down to posterity the name of one of England’s greatest generals and having its main street called Lucknow. ’The principal industry in the Pelorus is sawmilling, Messrs Brownlee and Co. possessing one of the finest plants to be found in the colony, with an iron tramway of over twelve miles long and a powerful locomotive to draw the logs to the mill. The road from Havelock to Nelson could not be improved, which is saying a good deal, and as we had no time to go down the Pelorus Sound, the most extensive display of lakelike scenery had to be passed by until another opportunity offered, when my friend and I intendhaving a week down there, as from his glowing description it must be seen to be properly appreciated. In the meantime we contented ourselves with what was to be seen up the Pelorus and can fully bear out what Lord Glasgow said, that it is the most English-like scenery you can find in this colony and well worthy of a visit. Now, as my space has rapidly filled, let me remind all my readers that Marlborough is practically only a suburb of Wellington the “ Empire City," and no better holiday haunt than the valleys or Sounds alluded to can be found in the world with such a variety of beautiful scenery to please the eye of the tourist. Wellington sketohers or holiday-seekers should go and see for themselves.