FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Times, Volume XXXIX, Issue 6737, 20 November 1882, Page 4

FASHION NOTES.

(From tfu JVVtj Zealand Matt.}

Those of my readers whose memory dates back to twenty years ago will recollect the immense popularity of black and white as a combination, when combinations'of color were not even tolerated. Very pretty the mixture of black and white was, though its detractors stigmatised it as “ magpie,” and laughed it to scorn. Nevertheless, the fashion held its own for a long while, and now there is quite a revival of the combination, and the probability is that many beautiful black and white costumes will appear during the coming season. For example, take one from a noted modiste, made of black silk brocade, having full coquilles of white lace above the narrow thicklyplaited satin flounces lined with white lace, which extend entirely round the bottom of the skirt, forming its edge, the back arranged in a close triple watteau plait. The bodice is finished with a~ full jabot of white lace. Some black dresses are trimmed with alternate flounces of white and black lace across the front, headed with bands of jet embroidery. The same embroidery outlines the bodice, which is also trimmed with white and black lace. Had we seen a few seasons ago, a lady wearing a velvet dress in hot. weather, we should have thought her a victim to “ midsummer madness.” Ideas change with the times, and velvet is now stylishly worn everywhere during the summer by young and old. Sometimes the entire costume is of velvet, but of toner the upper portion only, which may be polonaise, coat bodice, direotoire jacket with wide lapels, collar, and inside vest of white satin, or a plain pointed cuirasse bodice. For elegance, economy, and variety, no dress will so certainly combine these excellent qualities as- one of velvet, made walking length, with closefitting bodice, and plain ruche trimmed skirt. This may be made the foundation of many changes. The skirt can be worn with over dresses of thin material of ‘any tint, and the bodice again with almost any dress and tunic. Nun’s veiling, India muslin,. and_the—numerous other light fabrics now seen in the windows of our drapers, are admirably suited to combine with velvet. Another pretty way, if the entire costume is of velvet, is to lengthen the direotoire jacket behind, so as to form a redingote, the front sloping away from the waist.. The skirt is then quite plain, 1 with the exception of a very full ruclie at the bottom. Such a velvet skirt should measure about three yards round, and consist of two straight, full-back breadths,, one wide gore at each side, and a gored' front. It should be deeply faced with alpaca, a woollen braid being set in between the lining and the velvet, at the edge. The satin ruche at the foot is six inches wide, and laid in cluster plaits that have five plaits turned each way, with an inch wide box-plait forming' the top of each cluster... The ends of the box-plait are caught together, making a full bunchy ruche. Braiding is the popular trimming for woollen dresses. The young- Princesses of Wales recently! appeared in costumes of navy serge, the skirts having a heavy kilting, and a' drapery turned up with white, serge, braided over closelywith harrow navy braid.; Bodices of 'white i duck, made like a:sailor blouse, with the; regulation blue'collar braided with while 1 braid. Worth’s hew models are all short, leaving the feet quite visible in front, and the skirts, are composed of deep double! flounces, folded under so as to look like; large puffs. These are named “Triboulet” costumes: Either : a kilting Or a! thick, ruche borders 'the skirt, thefa two turned under flounces, lone all round the centre: of the, dress,; the other round the hips, andl falling‘over the first one. " Plaid is used for these dresses, and I cannot imagine them looking elegant ; the'loose bagging puffs have an untidy appearance. ~ Tournures are becoming quite an essential: article of attire, since most of the new styles have reference to them in some way or other. Still women have the good sense to eschew steel; at any rate, if they do use it, it is in infinitesimal quantities, a couple of short pieces run into , the petticoat doing good' service, though fashionable dresamakersintheOld Country are sending home' handsome satin skirts with steels run in, which ! -require but bodice and sash to convert them into full costumes.' What with paniers and the heaped on draperies, puffs and bows, we are becoming something like balloons, and soon the straight up and down figure will be a thing of the past; the natural hips, once a source of mortification ' to " the possessor, who could not, do what she would, keep them unobtrusive, will now be pridefully exaggerated, and looked upon as a point of beauty. Certainly some of the figures in the fashion plates are grotesque to the last degree, with long pointed bodies, immense hips (false) and draperies reminding one strongly of the dining-room window curtains, and appearing much more like the work of ari upholsterer' than that of a dressmaker; Ladies with stout figures will find it becoming: to wear drapery placed quite below the hips, instead of the full paniers and' high draped scarfs that are now placed but a few inches' below the waistf line. The Princesse dress,; with Greek drapery open up one aide to display lengthwise pleatings, or embroidered panels, or side breadths of a different material, is becoming to stout ladies, as are also long redingotes, and all striped fabrics, which fortunately for, them,are coming again into favour. ; A novelty is the Russian pelisse, a long,’ close, 1 plain,’ garment, having bntr few seams, and all its fulness massed in plaits in the middle seam of the back. . It covers the figure from neck' to foot, i and may bp buttoned down the entire single-breasted front, ,or may be allowed to fly open 1 below the waist in’front:"

A parasol has much to do with the tout ensemble ol a lady’s outdoor toilette, as it can enhance or destroy the effect; for almost the first object that catches thfe eye as a’lady approaches is the übiquitous parasol., Of course; where a lady can have a separate; one for every costume,, it would be unpardonable did she not 4 harmonise it with the dress ; but the ; cleverness consists in selecting a parasol that will not only harmonize with the principal street costume, but also with'many another that may happen to be in the wardrobe. . Perhaps a handsome black or cream parasol are almost the only ones that maybe carried indiscriminately, with good taste 1 , yet we see them resplendent in mixed colors, and in every variety of material. Now that lace is so much worn, a good way to furbish up an old or faded parasol is to completely cover it with ' row upon row of cream or black lace, finishing at the top with a bow or flowers. You are then in the height of the fashion. Adjustable trains are too convenient, to admit of tKeit going out of fashion. The vogue of scarfs, tahliers, and plastrons, detachable from the skirt and fastened to it when desired, by patent hooks and eyes, is nearly aS great, as by these means the toilet may he varied indefinitely. A rich dress may be made with the utmost simplicity, yet in a few moments. The addition of a long adjustable train at the back, and a tabliCr covered with lace or glistening with passed mentire in the front, will transform an unpretending dress into a grande toilette. Ladies who have small shawls of, any kind of lace can utilize them as fichus by gathering them up slightly upon the shoulders and' at the hack across the waist line ; and belting them in over the points front and back. For children turkey red is more used than ever. A plaited dress of the red with a white muslin guimpe composed of lengthwise plaits,’is a favorite way of making. It has wide strings of the twill hemmed, stitched to the waist at the side seams and tied in a large bow behind, confining the fulness of the skirt. Pinafores and overalls of turkey twill are also much worn. Speaking of pinafores puts one in mind of grown up aprons, I mean which are just as popular as ever, and made in every from and shape. The lady who has a new pattern is beseiged with requests from friends for the shape, and quite creates a little sensation on her own account. The

latest novelty is of white muslin trimmed with colored silk inching and the indispensable pocket, ornamented with a handsome bow. Fietflle or twine lace also makes pretty aprons. Black silk ones embroidered have the double advantage of looking well and wearing well.— Elise.