FEMININITIES

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1832, 17 April 1907, Page 57

FEMININITIES

(By “Lalage”)

A well-known Australian personality Is the proprietor of Cole’s .'Book Arcade, of Melbourne. It is an institution of the Victorian capital, one of its recognised ‘‘eights.” Mr Cole is, among other things, well-known as a pro-Japanese publicist, and in this guise was invited by the Japanese Government as its guest to the Osaka Exhibition. Throughout his stay in Japan special consideration was shown him, and some of the most distinguished Japanese entertained him. By a coincidence two of his daughters, one of whom accompanied him on this tour, were during the stay of the Japanese squadron, ana as Miss Ivy Cole speaks Japanese and had many friends among the officers of the ships, she had opportunities greater than the ordinary Wellington girl of studying our late visitors—and Wellington girls were very willing to study them to the best of their ability, even though the glamour of things Japanese as seen through the eyes of Sir Edwin Arnold, Lafcadio Hearn, or Okakura Kakazo does not yet appear to have reached intellectual Wellington. Consequently I found a chat with her on Japanese home life particularly interesting. Many people visit Japan, but very few are allowed to participate in the real home life of the people. As we are still talking “Japan” I give some of the chat here. On arriving at a Japanese house the visitors are met by a servant .who removes their shoes, and they enter either in stockinged feet or wear slippers provided by the hostess. Then refreshments are handed round in the shape of a ceremonial cup of green tea, cakes of bean paste, and sweets. While these are being partaken of Geishas appear in answer to the summon© of a hell, and perform their graceful posture dances to the accompaniment of a samisen. • When a visitor leaves an invitation is given for the next meal. This meal is a very simple affair. There are no chairs in a Japanese house, but they al lkneel, then sit far back on the heels. The food is all arranged in little dishes, which fit into one big tray, and at the corner of the tray is a large dish of - rice, which takes the place of bread. The chop-sticks are quite easy to use. They are both held in one hand. The top stick is stationary, while the lower one moves, just on the principle of a, bird’s beak. The. soup is drunk out of small bowls. # * One of the golden rules of the Japanese; is “simplicity.” Miss Cole thinks the Japanese women are the most fascinating in the world, and when I asked, “What do they give out as the secret of this pre-eminence?” she replied,“Simply their quiet and happy acquiescence in the dictates of Nature. The Japanese women lead natural lives, they are simple in their tastes, their minds never dwell on anything that is not good and beautiful. One of the exercises done by Japanese women is to sit for half an hour in complete silence. For ten minutes .the fingers are placed over the eyesi ten minutes o>ei the ears, and ten minutes over the mouth. This indicates ‘J must see, hear and speak no evil. The Japanese woman is ever placid and contented. Her mind is tranquil and therefore receptive to beauty. One thing Miss Cole noticed particularly was that children in Japan never seem to cry. One day she saw a little boy fall down and cut his hand, and he came running up to h:s friends, showed his hand, and treated it as quite a Children are never sympathised with in the same way as an "English child. When anything such as this occurs the Mother explains, “That will help you to be a brave child.” One of their mottoes is “A smile is better than tears.” They are a verv happy race, and their happiness ie born of the contentment that follows an acceptance of circumstances. A Japanese woman is a true philosopher, hue is the ideal woman, moreover, for she is the expression of what Nature most desires —art and beauty from the true aesthetic standpoint. ' * # • A typical Japanese dwelling is of very simple construction —iust four poets, the walls of matting, and the openings for windows covered wPh papier-mache. The interior is divided into roome by eliding doors. These doors are movable, and the house may be altered, into one,; two, or more rooms. There are no fir® - , places, but metal boxes are placed in the centre of the room filled with live coals. .-• The cookings-kV-ckme apart from the UtraseT: Their dishes' are very simple; al'yfhough varied. The-Tmthcipal foods are -"' rice, fresh eggs, and different vegetables. They retire to rest soon after sundown, and get up early In the morning. Ladies do a great deal of reading and spend the early morning in this way. The youngest Japanese delights in learning, and they - will tell you that “We want - - to be as great as our fathers, and of some use to our country.” * .... * • # # iw Japanese are most patriotic, and hold their country as almost. sacred, The children would never pick or destroy the beautiful flowers that grow everywhere ■ in such profusion in public places, but gaze on them with admiration. If a sou is killed on the battlefield no outward grief is shown by the family. Instead, the mother expresses her joy in having porn a son that has died for his country. A. Japanese woman has only one idea and aim in life, that is to live for her husbandi and rear her children to he strong and healthy. Children in Japan are neverXvhipped on any account. If they are naughty they are given some task to do, or are reasoned with. ■ ® •» « Love-making, as we understand it, is practically uiiicncwn in Japan. Marriages are arranged by what they call, "go be tweens.” That is, a: friend of the bridegroom elect hr asked to interview - the pa rents of the'one chosen and'ask if - they, are agreeable- to ; the; marriage, if. the parents agr.ee,; th© daughter’s high

sense of duty is all that is required, and sometimes a bride has had no acquaintance with the man she marries. However, English ideas in this respect are becoming more and more observed, but chiefly among the higher classes. Massaging is done by every Japanese woman. In fact a mother, instead of using a puff on her baby, massagis the powder into the skin, and the wi.meu themselves take every precaution in preserving the youthful appearance and freshness of their skin. The dressing of the hair is a very important matter. A professional hairdresser is engaged, and the hair is dressed only once a month. They sleep on a block of wood scooped out in the centre so that the elaborate coiffure need not be taken down. In fact they sleep “without turning a hair,” so to say. I asked Miss Cole if she did not think sleeping on a Japanese pillow an acquired taste? “It certainly does not rival a bed of roses until you are thoroughly used to it,” she replied, but continued. “I can assure you one can rest quite comfortably on the wooden block and its advantages are twofold. In the first place it is said to make all the difference in the world to the figure. It straightens shoulders, and imparts a desirable poise to the head. Then there is no rest cure like it, so we are now being told, aud one great advantage of it is that you can set up your ‘rest’ anywhere, and be quite confident that you will arise from a siesta, snatched anywhere, quite trim.” « * * * Chairs have no place in a Japanese house. They are represented by fiat cushions, on which one must squat. Even when the hair is being dressed, a chair is not permissable; a kneeling posture being essential to this process. Miss Cole assures me that flopping “a la Japanese” can bo made quite attractive. In a pretty Kimono, and daintily embroidered heelless shoes, it is not easy to say how irresistible one appears when once the art of sinking prettily on a cushion has been thoroughly mastered. I hear of some Wellington girls practising the art since the fleet was here, and their knowledge will never be wasted. Of that one feels tolerably sure. The cushion may find its way into other rooms than Japanese, for we shall want to display our newly acquired charm, and “flop” or “squat” to an audience. Miss. Cole’s sister, by the way, is a champion Victorian lady rifle shot, and Miss Collier, who accompanied them, is also a- notable Victorian “rifle woman.” * * * Miss Mcllwain, of Auckland, who was in Wellington last week, informs we that she has been touring New Zealand, in the interest of a new flesh food called “Creme "de Beaute,” the recipe for which was given to her by Madame Blanche Arral. Miss MeElwain says that Madame has been particularly kind to her. “You may see,” said the Aucklander, “from these letters she says.” The references to Miss McElwain’s methods of massagery were highly laudatory, Madame Arral stating “tnat your methods of face massage are the 1 have ever had iu ail my travels.” it was as a token of' gratitude that the singer presented Miss MeElwain with two formulas of a very special preparation for the skill. They were given to the prima donna by a distinguished Turkish lady during her stay in Constantinople, and are supposed to be “beauty secrets” of the Harem. Madame says she has long been accustomed to make up for the stage, and yet numbers have remarked on the excellent preservation of her skin. To attain this result she says that she has used nothing but this particular flesh food “Creme de Beaute” for years. The other fleshfood is “Eau de Beaute,” which is a liquid form of the same thing. “Creme de Beaute” is made from the oils of certain herbs, while the other is distilled from the same sources. Oily skins aro recommended the “Eau de Beaute,” and dry skins the “Creme do Beaute.” Miss MeElwain claims to be the pioneer in New Zealand for “beauty” massage. She was first trained in a public hospital, and after qualifying as a nurse went in for the study of medical massage, and from that experience, which covered about fifteen years, made a speciality of face massage, and opened toilet salons. Miss MeElwain was given the sole agency for the well-known “milos” skin food, and -other preparations, for the whole of Australasia. “Milos” is of English manufacture - Itclaimed to be free from aniiual or any “hair producproperty, and to be absolutely free from minerals'. Another toilet preparation is “Creme Norma,” a liquid preparation, which is described as not being a cosmetic, but “a preventive of tan and sunburn, etc.” “Milos Cream of Koses” is an emolient cream for toilet purposes and sensitive skins. “Milos Hair Vigour” is for strengthening the hair and renewing its growth. Miss MeElwain was a pupil of Professor Voght, of Sydney, and pays annual visits to Australia. I asked her if she thought the New Zealand climate was detrimental to tho skin. --“Yes,” she said, “I think it is decidedly so, for more reasons than one.” She went, on to refer to sudden changes of climate, sea breezes containing much salty the Volcanic soil. Yet, 1 couldn’t help thinking, how comes it that Australians are always talking of the fine complexions of New Zealand girls? * * * It is only in a book of Fairy Tales that we read that “It only needs a rabbit skin to wrap the baby up in.” These little people have to be catered for, and though there cannot be quite the same amount of changes in the style as with- those of grown ups, there are always a few variations. I saw some pretty ideas m children’s clothing and millinery at Messrs * George and George s m Cuba street, and judging from a window display the juvenile department of this firm’s house is very much alive. I have noticed some very charming toilettes lately, but the most elegant of all are those that are . finished with a set of furs. Good furs are particularly

*, striking,. and give a certain air of distinetion to the most simple gown. * diking of furs reminds me of a visit I paid to Messrs Ballantyne and Company, of Christchurch. The manager of tlie special department was telling me; that fur is destined to play a prominent part in the winter modistic scheme, and that certainly seems apparent, as whichever way one turns furs are in evidence. • Quite a new departure, and .one that is certain of - ' securing a welcome the square effect at the back brought about by cunningly disposed heads," paws, and tails. These are repeated as adornments an front. ; Muffs ’ are rather huge and decorated in the same way. It is impossible to describe all the beautiful things to be seen in this fur department. There are beautiful 6able sets marked 95 guineas, fox sets for twentyguineas, and stone marten sets for thirtyeight guineas. Ah exceedingly effective fur is the “Fitch." It is a light brown fur, and may be had in sets ranging from eight to twelve guineas. There are some lovely' specimens of skin coats in Kussian marmot. Russian sac shapes V from the short sac to the garment, and fhey range in price from fourteen to forty-five guineas. The real seal coats in sac; and semi-fitting from the short to., the three-quarter, Length gar-* meat are sold from fifty-eight to eighty„six guineas. Ingenuity is being eaer- _ cised to such a degree that some of the " cheaper, commoner qualities are worthy rivals of the more costly productions, So- ns to bring “within the reach of all," Messrs Ballantyne have a splendid sy stemof dealing with orders by post. 1 see that C. Adams, the millinery specialist, of 35, (Juba street, has been awarded the first prize and gold medal at the New Zealand Exhibition for his magnificent display of millinery, and I hear that nearly all the models have been bought by English tourists. This . firm seems to have an intuitive knowledge of what suits the individual. No\7 velties are being created every day, and V the variety seems endless. A stroll through the showroom is delightful. “Marie," There are quite a number 'l of chauning materials to select from for a party frock for T girls of twelve, either taffeta, mercerised lawn, Japanese silk, or French muslin. Pale blue, with very delicate and fine Valenciennes insertion would be quite lovely. Try Mrs Mathewson, “Melbourne House," Lambton quay (opposite Bank of New Zealand) as a capable dressmaker who should give you satisfaction. This establishment is so centrally situated to be convenient fpr town and country dwellers alike.' One may rely upon having one’s particular fancies carefully attended. to. * * * When visiting Miss Murray’s shop in Willis street (opposite the Empire Hotel) the other day,*, I was shown some beautiful bouquets that had just been arranged. One was a bride’s shower bouquet, and it- was composed of white roses and Bouvardia, tied with long satin streamers. The bridesmaids bouquets were a glorious combination of apricot and vev- - million cactus dahlia, intertwined with streamers of Virginian creeper; and other autumn leaves, tied with soft geranium v ribbon. Another bouquet that was being sent'for a'country wedding was exquisitely arranged. It was composed or cream roses, and the new heliotrope carnation, tied with mauve streamers., » * * Visitors to the Empire Hotel include they Hon. Mr and Mrs Charles. Johnv stone, Captain Johnstone, and Miss Doris Johnstone. The Hon. Mr and Mrs Wal- ; ter Johnstone, Awahnri, Palmerston North, Mr and Mrs W. Levien, Greatford, Mr and, Mrs Balfour Kinnear, v Hawke’s Bay, Judge and'M rs Haseldean, *'7Rlr.,.Paisley, Palmerstbn North, Mr H. £; de.-Cdeta, and Mr D. de Costa, Gisborne, Mi* and Mrs Green, Gisborne, Mr and Mrs Beauchamp, Christchurch. * « *■ \ Visitors to the Grand Hotel include Mr E. Dampney, and Miss Dampney, Napier, Mr F. C. Twigg, and Mr E. A. ~ , Twigg, Napier, Mr and Mrs Armstrong, v B4 MM and 'Mrs Well Wood, Hastings; 'Mr .and Mrs Hitchings, Levin, Miss McElwain, Auckland, Mr John Morran, Miss Jj\ Morgan, Auckland, Mr and Mrs John ' Dawson and Miss Dawson, Auckland, X¥rs and Miss Frater, Auckland, Mr V. \.y. -<;• - . 7 Mrs P. C. Freeth returned from Sydlast week, where she accompanied ...Mr Freeth, -who has left for a round- '' the-world tour. Mr and Mrs Herold *.L,A3assett (Madame Blanche Arra.l) are staying at Island Bay for a few days’ rest.