THE SKETCHER

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1831, 10 April 1907, Page 14

THE SKETCHER

(By E. M. Dunlop.)

THE GLOWWORM GROTTO AT WAITOMO.

Some years ago a party of surveyors was engaged in taking observations in a remote part of the .North Island of New Zealand. Their work led them to make an encampment m a green sheltered valley watered by a modest streamlet and enclosed by billy ranges which were covered with dense bush and thick undergrowth. The life of the surveyor in the back blocks is by no means an easy one. Many discomforts and privations arc endured, and the solitude and >*et l ‘O often. become irksome, yet there ar-.* alleviations .to be discerned and in iny of those engaged in this arduous anu useful work would exchange their inn for no other pursuit. They learn to love the free, wild life of the for hi and the camp. Nature’s beauty is ever before them from the rising of the sun in the dewy morning to ano hour when the moon sails high overhead in all her. golden splendour, .lithe cold stars sparkle out one by one to stud tbe open heaven as with myriads of shining jewels. There is no life in which the poetry latent in every human soul receives more encouragement, and there is no life which may bring man nearer unto God. To live with Nature in the solitude of aiil find plain and valley undisturbed by ihe rude sounds or sights of city life, to hear the first chirp of the early bird, and note the gathering chorus of woodland voices; to watch the clewdrop on the grass sparkling to the first rays of the morning sun; to note the mists rising from the valleys and lifting ill fleoev loveliness above the forest greenery; to harxen to the song of the brooklet rippling over the pebbles of its rocky bed, and plunge into some forest pool and warn away the warmth of the summer night, then turn refreshed to some repast prepared under a spreading tree, while the wood smoke rises in a steady column • softly blue against the background of the forest, such are a lew of the delights of the life of the surveyor, and although many may find their lot. irksome, they are really fortunate to escape the noise and dui. bnd turmoil of city life.

The surveyors' camp with which we are at present was pitched in an open green/glade, around which the streamlet circulated in many a winding curve. There was no very great depth of water, although the colouring of the stream was a rich deep green borrowed from its fernclad banks and from the undergrowth which bent above it. A lovely blue mist sometimes rose above the water quite like a cloud of smoke. The width of the stream varied from about 20 to 30ft, and although in fine weather it appeared but a harmless brooklet, there were times when heavy rains converted it into a raging torrent; its colour changed and it swept along in fierce haste, carrying with it branch and limb and fallen tree, and sweeping from its banks all of the lovely jewelled undergrowth which was not able to withstand its force. On such occasions our surveyors were glad to keep within then rude hut or tent and receive the weather with great annoyance and c.isgust, for their work was hindered, their pegs swept away, and many of their landmarks obliterated, while the time was delayed in which they could hope to complete their • survey, return to city life, and receive their pay. Industrious and clever as they were, this simple looking little stream baffled them in more than one way.

They drew from it sweet water for ..their daily needs, bathed in it, laved ■ 'in it, and watched it rise and fall, hut it was a curious and altogether distinctive little stream, for, suddenly, not far from their camp, it disappeared from view and was lost to them, and its banks became inaccessible to their survey pegs. A thickly wooded hill rose in front of their pretty glade: the undergrowth on this hill was all of tree fern and bramble and palm and climbing plant, and - these growths thickly overhung the . stream as it approached the hill. Other streams, meander around such an elevation and find a channel at its foot: not so this plucky little stream, for it boldly charged the..great hill and out for its self a channel right into its interior. There it revelled and frolicked and played many a curious game. It seemed to widen and increase in volume. Outside it appeared. but a harmless brook; inside ...it seemed to assume the proportions of a tiirbulent river. It fell, appar-

ently from level to level with unimaginable riotings and roarings, which reverberated as echoes caught and gave back the sound ; through hollow cavV. erns and over rocky precipices the river made its way, now falling with , a noise of thunder, then, rushing in a t succession of rapids, anon throwing itself, with reckless, precipitancy right down some narrow... shaft many feet : • in. -depth. It was no longer a well-, behaved stream, but the most eccentric/ ever dreamed of. At , last after . .circulating,; the . fairies. only knew " ; where, and playing games iindrehMed

of by ordinary rivers, it issued slowly and sulkily from its cavernous bed, coming from gloom and darkness to daylight once again, and resuming its peaceful playful course through a bright and smiling country side. The spot whence the stream issued from the mountain was very beautiful, with a strange mysterious charm. There was a large cavernous opening thickly overhung with forest greenery; the nikau and treefern bent above it, and little ferns and mosses glittered like jewels below them. The greenery almost hid the opening, and from afar it could scarcely he perceived that there was an opening there. Our surveyors, however, were naturally much interested in the vagaries of the stream, and they broke a way through the high ferns and 'forest undergrowth and strove to peer into the gloom of the cavernous entry. It. was so very dark "and gloomy in the cavern and the water had such a mysterious threatening look as it issued from the hillside that it was some time before anyone ventured to attempt to enter the aperture. The water was deep am* the banks steep, and though an adventurous swimmer might enter, breasting the _ current which was strong, no one seemed to fancy the task.

One day they constructed a raft. It was needed for some purposes of the camp party, and the surveyors poled themselves merrily along the reaches of the stream as it wound round about their camp, sometimes taking a straight run, then circling again around some miniature headland. It was Christmas Etve, and there had been some fun and merriment in the camp, the wine cup had circled, and a Christinas feast had been enjoyed. Rafting along their stream in the coolness of the summer eve, their pipes alight, they rafted far from camp, and poling up against the stream the cavernous aperture came in view whence the river issued from the interior of the mountain. Golden opportunity, here was the means and theirs the power to penetrate the mysterious cavern. They jjoled industriously, for the stream was strong, and pushing aside the overhanging ferns and boughs forced their raft into the gloom. For a few moments they were in darkness, for, dazzled by the rays of the descending sun, their eyes could discern nothing until accustomed to the thick darkness. Presently they gave one simultaneous exclamation of astonishment and then were silent in amazement and in awe. Thev were in a wide reach of water, and moisture dripped from a great height with continuous sound. The water seemed deep and its movements slow, though strong, and far above them glittered innumerable stars. Although the sunlight stilt reigned without, midnight was represented here, but it was a clear, cold midnight, the starry sky reflected, star for star, and ray for ray, in the still surface of the water beneath. There was the Milky Way: the Southern Cross. Orion, and the Pie ides, but they appeared strangely near as though received through some powerful telescone. A cold light was diffused bv which the travellers could discern forms and almost distinguished faces. A sound, a splash, broke the stillness some inmate of the water stirred, and' sped away, leaving a shining-trail. Judge of the amazement of-our adventurers, when, their eyes becoming accustomed to the dim light from above, thev discovered many gigantic forms which seemed to be seated in stately grandeur, ranged along the sides of the huge cavern, or majestically posed in the spaces above. They seemed to have penetrated into Aladdin’s cave, and found it peopled with gnomes, fairies, and visions of & mighty past.. But tlie mysterious lights overhead! These for a short time baffled imagination, so brilliant, so beautiful were these innumerable stars, each with its reflection in the water below. The roof, which they judged to be from 80 to 100 feet in height, was supported by mighty pillars. The grotto appeared to be about 100 feet in width, and penetrated to an unimaginable distance, gallery succeeding gallery. They discovered a shelving shore, and, mooring the raft, ventured to stand upon the bank which seemed composed of sand and clay giving beneath the foot, but- affording a firm hold. The voyagers discovered that the lights above came from innumerable myriads of glowworms which had made their home for countless ages in this place so suitable for their increase. Each glowworm made a! star and spun a thread which depended from it like a tiny stalactite. The images around were really hugs stalagmites formed by the drippings which oozed from the roof of the caverns. From the bank on which the discoverers stood, natural steps led to limestone galleries and caverns with which the whole interior of the mountain, was intersected. The little harmless looking streamlet had performed a gigantic work in hollowing out innumerable galleries and caverns: the drippings from the limestone roofs had been busv during ages in formings countless works of art of all sizes and shapes, both above and below. From the roof depended snowy stalactites- as the drop which formed each one -fell to the ground after doing its work above, it formed a cor re-

spending stalagmite, which, slowly growing from the floor below, rose to meet its mate. In the course of countless ages the work is completed, stalagmite reaches stalactite, and a perfect pillar is formed. nHow ©low the work must be may be judged from that accomplished bv a single drop. Such are tbe wonderful works of Nature even when entirely concealed from the admiring gaze of man. Our surveyors were silent for a time in wonderment and awe, but like the shepherds of old thev found voice at last, and hurried awav to tell the tale of the marvels revealed to them that Christmas Eve. Their work was completed in due time, and they passed away to other scenes, but the discovery had been made, and now an ever increasing stream of visitors finds the way to the region which is called Waitomo. to visit the wondrous cavern of the glowworms and to speculate upon the marvels revealed to man in these extraordinary grottos and caverns formed by a little stream meandering through a remote part of tho King Country, Waikato. The Tourist Department has even provided a comfortable accommodation house so that visitors mav find a haven while exploring this wonderful region, and guidbs. armed with electric lamps and magnesium wire, are ready to show visistors over the caves. It is even proposed that ere long the caverns and galleries shall be provided with electric light and kept illuminated by night and bv dav. The power is there ready provided bv tho river where it rushes in foaming torrents over some underground watercourse. Artificial lights mav he very beautiful, but they can never equal in beauty those of our glowworm grotto. “These are Thv Work, oh Father, • these Thv Crown : Whether on high the air be pure—

- thev shine. Among the unnumbered stars of God—

thev shine: So shine —so toil, till night be over-

past. And the Stars vanish and the Sun return!”