ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON IN SAMOA.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1749, 13 September 1905, Page 24

ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON IN SAMOA.

(By Arthur I. Oarr.)

["Written Specially for the “New Zealand Mail- 1 Considering the comparatively short *rpace of time that Stevenson lived m Samoa, it is remarkable how hie name has become associated with that group. I had been a resident in Samoa some eighteen months when the famous author arrived and announced his intention of making the islands hie home for the nest of his life. We, m common with the rest of the civilised world, had read “Treasure Island,” and foresaw that the author’s presence in our midst could not fail to have a beneficial effect on our welfare —both by attracting tourist traffic, and also by arousing the attention of the outside world to the extremely unsatisfactory state of affairsl in which the inhabitants, both natives and whites were placed. The hurricane of 16th March, 1889, had just occurred —putting a stop to the war between ' the natives under Mataaf a and the Germans. The Berlin Treaty had just been agreed to, but we l all felt that •unless a strict watch was kept over its administration it would break down, and share the fate of other attempts to force on the natives a condition of affairs whicn in many ways conflicted with their manners and customs.

Being at the time supercargo _ and inspector of outside trading stations for Sir William McArthur and Company, 1 had full opportunity of meeting StevenThe firm had a mess presided over by Mr George Dunnett, to which all visiting Britishers and residents of standing were welcome. . . Mr Stevenson soon after his arrival acquired the property known as “Vailima,” some five miles behind the town, with which place his name will be for ever connected, for it is there that he -lies buried to-day. 'PJie place was covered with bush, and although strongly advised by .us to employ Niue (Savage Island), and , black labour to clear it, he declared his intention of giving the Samoans the preference. 'We explained that a Samoan, in his own group, would only work until he had earned a few dollars, and then knock off. Stevenson at once showed a charateristic which he afterwords manifested in more important matters. Havingjmade up hie mind to a certain course, he proceeded to carry it into execution. First having two small buildings put up—on© of which was afterwards known as the “Bandstand” and was the headquarters of Lloyd Osbourne, his stepson, he engaged . some sixty to seventy Somoans to fell and burn the bush. The first month all went well, and Stevenson never lost an opportunity of crowing over us—telling us that we did not know how to treat the natives. When he paid them, however, he soon became painfully aware that what we had told him was correct. One by one they left. Some on the plea of sickness, others saying that their mothers, fathers, wives, etc., needed them home, and Stevenson was reluctently compelled to fall back on >our advice and engage Niueans, and other outside natives.

He soon began to turn the bush into & plantation, and proceeded to build the finest house in the' group. Being in a weak state of health and very sensitive to the cold he had a brick chimney, and fireplace erected as part of his residence. This stands to-day, as falas I know, the only chimney of its kind in th© tropical Pacific. The cost was excessive. Again he gave his beloved Samoans the. job of carrying the bricks from the harbour to Vailima. The natives would start in the' morning with - four bricks each, two in each baskf- 1 on a stick (a la Chinaman) arrive at viMima, and after partaking of a meal, and talking over the events of the day saunter back to town. It would be too late then to make another trip, so that the actual cost of carriage alone of th© bricks was a shilling each. Although Stevenson could have got the work done for much less he allowed the Samoans to complete the work. I mention this incident to show how utterly indifferent he was ,to the commercial side of life, and his determination to give the Samoans every material benefit of his presence.

Although Stevenson and his family gave tip coining into town barefooted, the moment they arrived home, off went pboes and stockings, and each one went about his, or her, allotted .vocation in that state. Robert Louis when talking the matter ever with the writer declared that foot-gear was only an adjunct of civilisation, and that boots and shoes were "an invention of the devil for the benefit of shoemakers and corn doctors/* Indirectly this question of going barefooted was the cause of Stevenson becoming chary of allowing newspaper reporters an interview. There arrived one day by the mail steamer from San Francisco, a gentleman duly armed with authority from several American papers to collect news in Samoa. He asked for and was granted an interview with the famous author. At the time the whole Samoan group was in a state of political ferment and Stevenson, who recognised the advantage of having the true state of affairs put before the outside world went deeply into the subject, giving up a whole morning to the reporter. Imagine his disgust when he received a copy of one of the papers and found that there was not a word about the political situation, but that the whole article, which was illustrated with fancy cuts representing Stevenson in various more or less ridiculous positions, was descriptive of the author, his wife and family from the reporter’s standpoint, and as it seems that the gentleman’s speciality was base ball reporting he had written the matter up in what he no doubt considered first-class ptyle.

Stevenson was described as a ‘Tong, lean herring-gutted individual who badly needs the services' of a barber.” “He was” •aid the scribe, “seated in a chair with

one knee over th© other contemplatively rubbing a lean finger between hie by no moans' too clean toes.” _ . Stevenson was naturally indignant and gave orders that in future all newspaper men, especially base ball reporters, were to be shown off the premises m short order. He had a small revenge, however, m seeing that the reporter had taken for gospel his joke about the crab. There was a large cocoanut free crab fastened by a light chain to a stake on the lawn, and in - reply to a query of the reporter, Stevenson had informed him, that it was kept there to clip the grass. Aa th© lawn had just been cut the reporter “fell in/* and h&d devoted naif a column to describing the animal and its usefullness and advocating its introduction into America. Being correspondent for the Associated Press of America I was made an exception of, and before I sent my monthly letter he always gave me his views on the political situation. He was at this time getting facts together for '‘Seven Years’ Trouble in Samoa,” and frequently read his manuscript and asked my opinion as to their correctness. I noticed that he had dealt very leniently with the Germans over some of their high-handed actions. When compie he submitted it to the German Consul with a request that he would point out any inaccuracies. The Consul could find none, and yet when the book was published it was publicly destroyed in the Square at Berlin While discussing “Treasure Island’ and Edgar Allan Poe’s “Golden Beetle” one evening with Stevenson, he assured me that he had not read the latter before writing his own work. He pointed out that the idea of dropping a bullet through the eye of a skull was as old as the hills. In response to a query as to his favourite character, he replied that John Silver with liis “Three men seated on a dead man’s chest” in his own estimation, was the best pen picture that he had painted. Soon after their arrival and settling down in Samoa the Stevenson family adopted a regular routine in their daily life. Mrs Stevenson, Mr and Mrs Strong and Lloyd Osbourne all had their allotted duties. At daybreak Stevenson would have his cup of coffee or other light refreshment. The whole family with the native retainers would then assemble in the large hall for family prayers. Stevenson himself offering up a prayer—the simplicity and touching nature of which showed that had he devoted himetilf to the church he would have become equally famous. Stevenson would then retire to his writing-room, which was the most simply furmshed in the house, and write until ten o’clock, at which time breakfast was served. After breakfast, each member of the family, male and female, produced the materials for a cigarette, which they proceed to make and enjoy as soon as they finished eating. They all resumed their occupations until neon when regular work for the day was finished.

It is questionable whether this method of working was best suited to an author of Stevenson’s nature, and the fact that he broke loose from the restraint on two occasions tends to show that he was more inclined to follow his own inclinations as regards writing than to being tied dmvn to regular hours like an office clerk.

The attack on Father Damien’s moral character made by a, missionary in Honolulu, excited Stevenson’s chivalrous nature, and putting his own work on one side he wrote a hard hitting and scathing reply which he published in the form of an open letter. This tended to cause a breech between Stevenson and the local missionaries, which, however, soon healed up, as it was impossible to resist the charm of “Tusi Tala’s” personality. If anything, however, he was in closer touch with the Roman Catholic fathers than any of the others. No doubt his warm friendship and admiration for Mataafa, who belonged to that religion, had something to do with it. For some time it was current that Stevenson was bringing influence to bear to obtain the appointment as British ■Consul at Samoa. He, however, assured me, when in the course of my press duties, 1 made inquiries, that he had no ambition for Consular honours, but had certainly brought under the notice of the Foreign Office the actions of certain Consuls. The rumour spread by the Germans that he was a British Secret Service Agent was altogether too absurd to warrant inquiry or belief. Having with others been associated with Stevenson in a plan to take possession of the Municipal Treasury—the contents of which the President and Treasurer intended handing ove[r to the Native Government —and also in framing a petition to have the Chief Justice removed for incompetency, I can say from personal knoAvledge that all Stevenson’s actions were meant to further the best interests of the native® and whites. He had many friends among the natives all over the group, but hie particular affection® were given to the residents of a small town called “Vaiee,” situated on the south side of the island of TJpolu. Most of hie retainers were from, this town and a yearly feast was held at “Vailima.” The natives on their part scoured the bush for fat pigeons, and the lagoon for choice fish, lobsters, etc., gathered quantities of taro, breadfruit, bannanas, and made a collection of fine mats, “tappa,” and other native curios—these on the specified day were conveyed to where the Stevenson® had all the delicacies known to civilisation ready. Native ovens were made and the pigs, pigeons, and fish, etc., cooked. Marquees made of cocoanut leaves were erected, and after the feast was over the inevitable kaoa was brewed, presents exchanged, and speech-making indulged in. Stevenson always took the opportunity of impressing on the native® the horror and folly of tribal warfare, the' blessings of peace, and the advantage of agreeing among themselves on a practical form of Government, warning them that unless they did so annexation would surely result. The truth of hi® prediction ha® been fully proved by subsequent events, and the native® under the restrictions imuosed bv German rule, no doubt re-

grot that they had not followed out his advice. After Stevenson’s death his furniture was packed up and sent to California. Among other unique and valuable articles were two old Etnglish carved wardrobes —over 100 years old. An attempt was mad© to raise sufficient capital to buy the house and land, and use it as a hospital bearing his name, but the promoters of the idea failed in their efforts, and the property was subsequently bought by a German merchant, named Kunst, who had made a fortune at Vladivostock.