A VISIT TO SAMOA.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1425, 22 June 1899, Page 53

A VISIT TO SAMOA.

A WELLINGTONIAN’S EXPERIENCES.

NOTES ON THE FIGHTING

The passengers -by the R.M.S. Moana, which left Auckland on 17th April and arrived at Samoa five days later, had the novel experience of rounding the harbour at Apia to witness one of the British warships, H.M. Royalist, shelling part of the island to the east of the town, where the rebel natives in great numbers were in the occupation -of a fort in the bush, the shells passing right over the town, and clouding -it entirely with smoke as they burst-. In addition to the Royalist there were also at anchor within the reef- 11.M.5. Tauranga and Torch, the United. States cruiser Philadelphia, and the German man-of-war Falke, all practically within a stone's throw of themain street of Apia. All the Moana s flags, including the Stars and Stripes, which was flown connection with the mail flag, were at half-mast-—the ship s doctor (Dr Macbuniie) having died at sea-the previous night. As soon as ihe steamer had dropped anchor she was surrounded by boats’ crews with naval officers from all the warships for their respective despatches, which were ni waiting, and were handed over with all -speed, and as quickly conveyed to the various ships. The boats made a very pretty picture, and the efficient manner in which they were _ handled was the subject of much admiration. The native boats were, of course, the, first to reach the steamer, and the passengers were naturally anxious to know the position of affairs on the island, but the trouble was in making the query understood to the Samoans. However, one passenger who knew a little Maori was successful in making a native understand, and he replied that “the fight was all over.” “But, continued the passenger, in pigeon Maori, “we saw the warship firing over the town, and it cannot be all over;' to which -the native replied with a grin that “he meant all over the island. Too very much fight.” Amongst those on board the Moan a were the Hon J. McKenzie, Mrs McKenzie, Miss McKenzie, and Mr 0. Mewhinney, from Wellington. Mr Mewhinney vas amongst those who went ashore, and was enabled to get a passport from the Royal Navy officer in charge, which took him through.the British and American lines, and also through those of Malietoa, as near to the front as he cared to go, and from where he could obtain a good view of the fighting, the combined troops being engaged in dislodging the rebels from one of their forts in the dense bush above the town. While on the island Mr Mewhinney secured a large number of photographs, but as permission was only granted to use the camera on condition that no views of the troops or entrenchments were taken, > nothing could be obtained in connection with the fighting, except some views showing the destruction caused by shells to native hutsj and plantations. The main street in Apia was then in the occupation of the British and American lines, who had the latest quick-firing guns commanding it entrenched behind bags of sand, etc. Sentries were on duty, and no cue .was allowed to pass without a passport. The sentries also prohibited anyone from entering the hotels (the principal one of which is named the Tivoli), and martial law having been proclaimed, all trade was practically at a standstill. \ ery levy male natives were to be seen about Apia excepting those who had been wounded in fighting and were invalided. A number of' the worst eases were to be seen in a large store now used as an. hospital. As there are about half-a-dozen doctors in Samoa, exclusive of ‘those attached to the men-of-war, and as there are plenty of native women to act as nurses, the men are not by any means neglected. In addition, valuable assistance is rendered to the wounded by a number of nuns from che Roman Catholic Mission- . A great number of the British bluejackets are very young, and have not seen active service before. They complain mostly of the heat, which is very oppressive, especially in the middle of the day. From information which could be gathered on shore, the general opinion was that the fighting would continue much longer than was generally imagined by outsiders. It was also claimed by the partisans of the rebels that the losses on the sides of ! the British, American and friendly natives under Malietoa have been much greater than the loss to the followers of Mataafa. A rumour was current in Apia that Mataafa had several British prisoners in one of his camps in the bush; in fact, a German at Apia said he had seen a letter sent by Mataafa to the British Admiral that if the latter would allow some wounded rebels to pass through the lines to the town for medical aid ho would send back some English prisoners He had; but this lacks official confirmation. The rebels showed far more ingenuity in their defence than might be supposed. For instance, the few roads loading out of Apia had all been rendered useless by large holes having been made in them to prevent the forces getting their heavy artillery along. With reference to the incident! al-

ready reported of the priest who went to Mataafa’s camp for the heads of the unfortunate soldiers, it is said that Mataafa declined to receive him personally, but sullenly gave orders for the heads to be given up. Large numbers of natives whose huts and plantations have been destroyed by shells, etc., were in Apia quite destitute, and 400 of these alone were camped within the grounds of the Roman Catholic Mission House, and are provided for in the best manner possible under the circumstances. To make matters worse, the majority or the date-palm, cocoanut and breadfruit plantations in Apia, which were not actually destroyed by the fighting, bad to be cut down to prevent the possibility of the rebels having cover to make a night attack upon the town. Some difficulty was experienced in making arrangements for the burial on shore of the body of the late doctor of the Moana, and in the conduct of the negotiations some smart hand flag signalling was shown between one of the warships and those on shore. Eventually a native canoe, manned by thirtytwo stalwart Samoan?, conveyed the coffin from the steamer to the shore. The burial service was read by the chaplain of the Tauranga, the coffin being lowered into the grave by six bluejackets,, none of the crew of the Moanai being able..to attend. The cemetery, which is known as the English one. is in a beautiful situation on the lovely, palm-studded peninsula of Mulinuu. After the various boats’ crews from the men-of-war had brought their return despatches to the Moana and placed them on board with all formality, the steamer left for Honolulu, en route for San Francisco. Notwithstanding the devastation caused by war to the natural beauty of Samoa, the island presented a magnificent spectacle the day of the steamer’s visit, and ad on board were lost in admiration of the beautiful tropical scenery.