MAKING HOT BEDS IN COLD FRAMES.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1404, 26 January 1899, Page 4

MAKING HOT BEDS IN COLD FRAMES.

Locate the frames on some sunny southern exposure with a good windbreak on the north, such as a building, stone wall, tight fence or hedge (Bulletin 70, Kansas exp sta). Much of the success will depend upon protection from winds; then the heat secured by reflection when the frames come on the sunny side of a wall or tight fence is an important item. Some large gardeners secure heat by running flues or rows of tiles beneath the beds and conveying the hot air and smoke from the furnace to the chimney at the opposite end. The small gardener and farmer, however, will depend almost entirely upon the heat developed by a pile of fermenting manure beneath the beds. About the last week in February or first of March, in New Zealand, July and August, place in a pile enough good stable manure to cover the bottom of the intended bed 18 inches deep, and fork it over evenly. After a week or 10 days steaming, fork over again and by the end of another week fermentation will be sufficiently strong so that the completion of the bed may bo accomp lishod. Dig a pit 15 or 18 inches deep and surround it with a broad frame 10 nches high on the lower side and 18 on the upper. Put in the manure to a depth of 18 inches. Thoroughly moisten and tramp down, put on about five inches of fine garden loam, then adjust the sash and bank up about the frame with straw manure. Place a thermometer in the soil and when the temperature remains constant at 80 degrees the seed can be sown. If the temperature is too high, wait until it drops or your plants will be burned out. For an early crop plant radishes and lettuce. The seeds of early cabbage and cauliflower may follow and later tomatoes and egg plant. Such vegetables as cucumbers may be started in small flats or berry boxes and transplanted into frames. A cold frame is made the same as a hotbed except that the amount of manure used is very small, the heat being chiefly derived from the sun.

The management of the hotbed or frame is a matter of importance. As soon as the sun’s heat begins to warm up the air well and the temperature within the sash rises a little, the sash must be opened a trifle, either by sliding dowr, or by raising the lower end with a block. The direction of the wind and the temperature of the outside air will govern. Should the sun cloud over or a cold wind spring up during the day the frames must be closed. Early closing at nigh! is also necessary in order that the warmth absorbed during the day ms; not radiate tco soon. For cold nights mats must be provided for covering the sash, but if these are too expensive, ha? or straw held in place by poles answer the purpose well. For the protection of young plants as they emerge from the ground and until strong and firm, lath screens should be placed over the sash to shut out a part of the light. Regulai and judicious watering must not be neglected. But little will be needed, however, after the seed is sown until the young plants apear. A light stirring of the soil now and then must be given, as a baked surface is more quickly fatal under glass than in the open air. A good movable frame to support the sash may be made six feet square. It should be 18 inches high at the back and 10. in front. A slope of eight inches is thus obtained toward the south. To strengthen it at the corners use - ; eces of 2 x 4 scantling. A cross-piece must be dove-tailed in at the middle upon which to slide the sash back and forth. This must he easily removeable so that it can bo taken out when filling the frame or sowing the seed. These can be used for a hotbed or a cold frame.