THE SKETCHER.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1152, 30 March 1894, Page 29

THE SKETCHER.

MY VISIT TO WHITECHAPEL . ♦■ (By G.M.8.) About three yeais ago returning home on the good ship Orinuz from Sydney I met my friend B. for the first time.ln course of conversation he informed me he had a letter of introduction to Inspector J. of the Westminster division at Scotland Yard. This letter was given him by one of the Sydney Inspectors. I told B. I should like to go with him when he delivered it, and if possible try and get an insight to some of the London slums. After sight seeing for some time, we decided at length to deliver our letter at Scotland Yard. We went to the newly-erected building on the Thames Enbankment. We were at once taken into a spacious room by a | policeman. The furniture consisted of 8 or 4 large chairs, desk, safe, etc. The electric light was burning brightly, although it was only 2.30. in the afternoon. Here we first saw Inspector J. He was a tall, fine military looking man, with piercing black eyes, dark hair and moustache, heavily shot with grey. He demanded our pleasure and asked us to be seated. My friend B. then handed over his letter. The Inspector opened, and as he scanned it, his stern features at once relaxed for he recognised the handwriting of one of his oldest chums. ** I'm glad to see you," said he, holding out both his hands to us, " you've j done me good. I've not heard from old j PhU for many a year. By Jove, we've been in some tight jobs together. Now, what can I do for you?" We said we , ihould like to visit of the East, and the j

theatre of Jack the Ripper's performance. We eyed the Inspector nervously, knowing we were touching the sore point of Scotland Yard. He smiled and said : " Right you are, I'll take you ; let me see, to-day is Tuesday, supposing we say Friday night ? « Yes, Friday will suit, but I say, no tall hats, etc., put on old clothes and leave your watches at home, for even I cannot save you from pickpockets." We promised obedience. He then went to the iron safe and pulled out a decanter of whisky, some biscuits?, and glasses, inviting us to keep out the cold, an invitation we were not slow to accept, as it was a bitterly cold foggy day in January (a day enough to make the staunchest Templar feel inclined to break the pledge, if he has a spark of human nature within his bones). After inviting the Inspector to dinner at 6 sharp, Friday, Criterion, we took our leave. The fog had thickened and cabs had ceased ruuning and we had to engage a link boy to light us home —distance f mile—time I 3.30 p.m. We met Friday evening as arranged and dined, both well and wisely. We then adjourned to our rooms which were in Norris street(close by); we discarded our watcheß, put on old clothes and started in a cab for Whitechapel. The evening was very cold, thermometer below zero, but clear overhead. We drove straight to the chief Polic* Office, where Inspector J. introduced us to the Inspector of the district, whom I shall call R. He expected us, having been notified of our arrival, and said he would be happy to show us round. He was a short, thickset, merry-faced man, with sharp, grey eyes, a man, I should say, about 45 years j of age and a Scotchman. " Now before we I start I will give you the straight tip," j said he, u watch ray friend J. and rnj'aelf and do as we do, although I am wellknown, I cannot prevent insult. Keep

your temper, don't refuse drinks when offered, but never touch them unless you see me do bo, but take an opportunity to tip them on the floor. J., old man, this will apply to you too, as I know more about my district than you do. Yon gentlemen will have to stand treat, etc., in several places, but a shilling a piece in each place will be ample. Now come along and I'll take you to one of the oldest places in Whitechapel where we can get a good glass of whisky." Ifc was now 9 o'clock and we followed R dewn some narrow, dirty streets, till we got to a long low building. The entrance was an ancient archway, guarded by a massive oak door studded with iron nails, bolts, etc. The landlord, a respectablelooking man, led us down a lot of passages aid steps, till wo entered a large underground chamber, from where we could hear the traffic overhead. Our host opened his lantern which he had used to 1 conduct us through the dark passages and •lighted a largo swinging lamp hanging from the centre < f the roof. The room was dark and sombre, with arched ceiling, j The size of the chamber was about 40ft square. At one end there was a sort of president's desk, with steps up to it like a pulpit, it had an oaken roof or sounding board over the top. Everything was made of oak, wainscot, benches, chairs, and roof ; all dark, dreary, antique, and worm-eaten. We sit down, and after the Inspector had asked the landlord to bring in some of his "special," he turned to us and said " I hare brought you here to show you one of the haunts of the conspirators and plotter! of the I6th and 17th century. In thie room many a vile deed and murder was hatched. It is only on special occasions our host opens these lower doors. Many old papers and parchments have been found from time to time in the

'walls, etc,, while undergoing repairs. These documents are now in tho British Museum. After pledging each other we proceeded to go. ,l Mold on a minute," said R., " you have nob seen all.' We then followed tho landlord down a network of passages, some running right under the Thames. I believo there were eight underground passages in all, all guarded by heavy iron and oak doors by which the conspirators made their escape when pressed. We then w--nt up the stone stairs, the top of which was also guarded by a heavy door, which was at once lecked by tho landlord. This underground warren >vas always kept locked by orders of the police, so that any thieves who might be wanted, could not bolt down below and make their exit. We did not enter the public bar, but I believe it is no better than the rest. I may say all the landlords are really in with the police, and keep them well informed. We then turned the corner of our dark street and came on to a blaze of light, which issued from a gin palace. We also heard music upstairs. Entering from fehe dark street, we were completely dazzled by the glare. We followed the Inspectors upstairs, and entered a largo room, devoid of furniture, with the exception of a number of benches, which were ranged round the walls. A largo inverted barrel was in the centre of the room upon which was seated, cross-legged, one of the ugliest negroes it has been my lot to behold. He was about to strike up a set of lancers on a concertina, but on seeing us, ho stopped and demanded us to choose our partners. Thore were about 30 to 40 people in the room of mixed sexes. I was at once pounced upon by a portly freshdooking girl about 24 j years cf age. She was clad in a shabby red velveteen dress, and as far as I can remember a white straw hit trimmed with gaudy ribbons, and green and white feathers. Her not- over- clean fingers wore adorned with " Brumageni " rings. I felt highly flattered at being chosen by one of tho elite of Whitechapel. "By Golly, Sah, you've goh de handiest gal wid her feet in do show," said the nigger on the tub. The men present seemed to consist of sailors, swell mobsmen, and a second or third mate or two. Tho women (God help them), were a very mixed lot, some were old hags and harpies, keepers of cheap lodging houses,- —and worse. There were girls once good-looking no doubt, but now some, bloated by drink, and others haggard, with dark lines round their eyes, with that fatal hectic spot on their cheeks denoting the presence of that fiend, consumption ! Oh je women of the West End, no doubt you fancy your selves good Samaritans, because you open your well filled purses, and subscribe to sending out Bibles, hymn-books, and tracts to the South seas. Look nearer your own homes, don't shrug your d duty shoulders and talk about the sinfulness of your own sex, whom want, misery and despair, has driven into the streets. Givo to them a helping hand and kind word, and thank God on your knees, that yon wore born with a silver spoon in your mouths, and never had such dire occasion to be tempted. My friend and the Inspectors also being secured as partners, the concertina struck up and we proceeded to dance. After having been seized by my partner, whirled round and then pushed on to someone else's partner—whirled round again, the dance eventually came to an end, and I sank down, breathless and perspiring on the nearest bench. As soon as I was able to articulate I asked my partner if she would like some refreshment. She turned to me with a smile and said, " Look I knows yer, you ain't no shellback, you're a bloomin' toff, that's what you are. Why you treats me as if I was a laidy. God knows it ain't many of'em does that. Since you're so pressin' I'll take a gin and pop." " I ordered a gin and ginger beer. She pressed the glass to my lips to taste '• for luck," and polished off the rest. I suppose my friend's experience was the same. We wero treated politely for I could see Inspector R. was known in tho place. He afterwards informed us there were several known thieves in the room, who had been convicted more than once. Now one more pub and we will go somewhere else. We entered the street bar of another shanty like the last. The place was crowded with men and women, some of whom scowled when we entered (the Inspector being again recognised). "It's all right," he said cheerily, "I don't want any of you to-night; I'm only having a look round." A girl something like my late partner sidled up to us and asked for a drink. She called for gin, but I noticed she did not drink it. "Did you notice that girl," said R. as we emerged into the fresh air. "Yes" we said wonderingly. "She is in our pay," said he, "and one of the best women we have, those two fellows in the corner who seemed drunk are two of my best men, who shepherd her to see she comes to no harm." "By Jove \" said I, not knowing what else to say. We then proceeded to the Sailors' Home. What a contrast! All bright, clean, comfortable and cheery. The entrance hall was large and wide, about 20ft long, and leading into another large hall extending the width of the building. In the second hall were large cosy fireplaces, tables with benches, etc. On the tables were all kinds of daily papers and periodicals, the whole being brilliantly lighted by gas jeta from tho ro->f. There were a good many men about chatting, smoking and reading. I believe they have a bar now, whore a good light glass of | beer can be obtained for Id per glass. ' There were also smaller n>oms better j

furnished for the ships' officers, who pay a trifio more for their quarters, having a comfortable mrss room of their own, and also a small library. The men mess in the la'go hall. Ascending from the hall wero several spiral iron staircases, reaching iron landings or stages one above the other. Opening inward from these stages wero two or three hundred little doors leading into little cabins about 7ft by oft, with swinging candlesticks and lighted by portholes, ah beau ifuUy clean and neat. I forgft what tho pay for keep is, but it is not much. Each umii has to keep his own cabin tidy and to do his sharo in keeping the homo clean till ho ships again. We wero shown round by an old naval pensioner in uniform. All hands have to bs homo by eleven, by which tima lights are put out. I was told very few men living there cared to turn out at night. They preferred their bright homo, where they could get what beer (in moderation) and " baccy " they required. Wo emerged into the night air once more, it now being after 10, and turned our faces towards Mitro Courf, tho centre of tho horrible Whitechapel murders. To my astonishment 1 saw very few police in uniform, but saw aevoral low-looking customers moving noiselessly and stealthily down the dark alleys and courts. These we were informed were mostly police, all wearing goloshes. Now and again Inspector R. stopped and struck a match, and stooping down showed us a gruesome t on the pavement, marking the spot where another poor unfortuna'o had been slaughtered by that loathsome fiend " Jack the Ripper." We saw several women (but never by themselves) hurrying hand in hand, with compressed lips, through that accursed district. We thon turned into a street, tho name of which I cannot remember, with a heavy brick viaduct en one side of it. Having proceeded some way along tho brickwork, R. suddenly stopped and knocked loudly with his stick at a low iron door, completely hidden in the sombre shade of tin viaduct. " Who's there ?" shrieked out a cracked voice. " Open to the police," said tho Inspector. The door opened slowly, and the sight that met my eyes I shall never forget. We entered a sort of cavernous archway, about ten feet square. The bricks had once been whitewashed, but wore now stained, slimy and discoloured. From overhead oozed the moisture with a monotonous drip, forming minute puddles on the earthen floor. The place was lighted by a tallow caudle stuck into an old stout bottle, standing on the uneven ground,' which caused the tallow to run down the bottle and freeze there in long, dirty streaks. The inhabitant of the place was a'' woman." I should say her age was about sixty-five, haggard, humpbacked, with claw-like hands. She was clad in rags and looked filthy. She must have been tall at one time, and I should say handsome, but withal, a hard cruel face. An old iron bedstead, covered with rust and old sacks, was in one corner. A drunken sailor was lying on the sacking with his coat and waistcoat off, showing his muscular, bare and tattooed arms, snoring heavily. "What's up?" said the old woman, "you don't want 'im, do yer, I 'e's bin boozed all day, and 'e pays me a I tanner for the doss down." The Inspector made no answer, but shook the sleeper with no light hand. " Get up my man," he said, "and pull your bedstead away from the wall." The man opened hia eyes and looked at us in a dazed drunken way and did as he was told. " Now 1 want you to look at this," said R. as soon as the bed was shifted, pointing with his finger to darker stains than usual on the dirty whitewash. "This is where the Ripper dragged one of the poor unfortunates and finished his frightful task. We examined the wall and the stain had the appearance as if someone had thrown the contents of a small ink bottle at the foot of the wall, the splashes reaching the height of about two feet." It is needless to tell you what these horrible maiks consisted of. Telling the man to replace the bedmead, and tipping both himself and the woman, we hastily emerged once more into tho frosty night. None of us spoke, all deeply engrossed with our own thoughts. It ia frightful to think of these sinful souls, in prime of life, hurried into eternity without word, thought or prayer. I am sure there are many such murders committed that never come to light, and many victims lying in the slimy ooze at the bottom of the ever-flowing Thames. "Verily, how true tho saying, "How littledoea half of this world know how the other half lives" (or dies). After having visited several more thieves' drinking shanties like those I have already described, we stopped at on 3 of the twopenny lodging-houses. The luspector rang a bell and a man opened the door. "I want you to show these gentlemen round, and look after them," said tho Inspector. The police refused to come in with us, for what reason I cannot say. We followed our guide up a narrow dirty flight of stairs at the top of which was a small office with a pigeonhole, behind which another man was stationed to take the money. Immediately on passing the office we entered a large dimly-lighted room with whitewashed walls containing about 60 beds about 18 inches away from each other, all covered with one heavy dark brown blanket, branded with the name of tli3 lodging-house keeper. It now being cearly midnight most of these beds were engaged by men or boys, who on our entrance only gazed at us, as much as to say, " What do you want here ?" but did not speak. The women's

department was the same as tbo rr.cn s. The charge for one nifdit is 2d, and all have to be away at <> o'clock in the morning. On rejoining our friends below, the neighbouring clocks chimed 12. " Now, ccmeMp to my rooms at the station and have supper, said R., and I'll show you ;i penny supper place cu rou(c. u We stopped at a small shop filled with cheeses, barrels of he- rings, red eibbage, onions, etc. There were also many loaves stacked in a corner. During iho live minutes we stayed there, many men, -women, and even children came in with their pennies, and carried away a piece of bread (sink) and cheese, fish, onions, etc. I was told the proprietor had made a good deal of money here, and owned valuable property in the West End. We reached the police Etation tired out, and entered the Inspector's private rooms, where a cheery fire ■was blazing, and a substantial supper laid out on the table. "Before we sit down I II show you one more horror," said It., producing a bundle of photos from a drawer. Alas ! th< so were the victims taken by limelight jnst as they -were discovered by the police after death. Those wretched pictures have since haunted me, and 1 often wish I had never seen them. We did ample justice to all the good things, washed down by two bottles of Roederer, which the good Inspector produced to drive away the melancholy thoughts that pervaded us. After a chat and smoke we shook hands -wi h our kind friends, and thanked them heartily for their kindnesses and drove home, arriving there at 5.30 on a cold frost3' morning. In a very short time I •was between the blankets, ami did riot -wake till nearly midday, having left orders not to be called at my usual hour. 1 have visited Whitemapel since and could write a nnrc detailed account, but I confine myself to my first visit, and my first impression of the comparatively unknown East End of the most crowded metropolis of the world. 1