HOME DRESSMAKING.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1151, 23 March 1894, Page 16

HOME DRESSMAKING.

WHY SLEEVES NOW TAX THE CAPACITY TO THE UTMOST. How to Measure For Sleeves and How to Cut Tbem —Log: o* Mutton and Evening Balloon Sleeves Tlio Arm Size and SJiouhler Seam. [Copyright, 1593, by American Press Association.] The model for all sleeves, on which all variations are based, is that shown in the diagram and consists in a coat shape as far ns the lining is concerned. The outer line shows the upper part, and the inner line, shown by dots, marks the under arm portion, which any dressmaker can draft to a scale of one inch to an eighth of an inch, which brings the sleeve to about 34 inches long, which is the average. The measure for the length of the sleeve should betaken with the elbow bent at right angles and the line drawn from the outer edge of the wrist to the top of the side back seam. The round-

ing part does not count in the measure, for that is arbitrary. Sometimes it is very high and at other times not more than to give the necessary fullness to make it set well. The under portion should be three inches narrower than the outside. The measure for width should be taken around the wrist and at the top just whero the seams join. As it is quite a little trouble to measure and diagram for a new pattern every time, the clever dressmaker will draft one or two good sleeve models—for long, slim arm and for short, plump one—and keep them always ready whero by a minute's work in measuring for width and length any lady can be fitted with a sleeve. The next thing is to cut for balloon sleeve, which is now in its various modifications the favorite. This can be easily done by following the main features of the diagram. The puff can be as full or scant as the wearer desires, and it is usually cut on the cross of the goods, deep enough to reach the elbow, and is gathered where the marks are. It can be shirred at the top and the fullness thereby turned downward, or it can be cut a trifle higher and gathered in with the lining. It is to be basted on the lining and sewed and afterward drawn upward and gathered and basted at the toil of the sleeve. The front sleeve seam can then be sewed and the sleeve finished off. The outer seam should have been sewed before. The lower arm portion should have had the outside cut and firmly basted to the lining and sewed up with the -whole. The wrists are now finished by a narrow piping and are faced with silk, and the best dressmakers sprinkle a little violet or orris powder along in the seam. "Where the wrists are to flare a trifle and with all fine dresses an interlining of wigan is made a/; the wrists to keep them smooth.

The puff may be lengthened from two to four inches and shirred directly in the middle, while the rest is treated as for a single puff, or it can be held in by a ribbon band. All the variations are suggested by the fashion publications, and the dressmaker can develop them from the foundation model.« The leg of mutton sleeve being just now yery fashionable and very difficult to make, a careful diagram is given, which any lady can follow who will draft the diagram on a scale of an inch to one-eighth of an inch. This is a very stylish sleeve and is well adapted to all materials. The sleeve joins only on one side, and all the fullness comes on the upper part. The lining to this—if lining is used —is cut just like the outside and should be of light texture. The sleeves should be cut so that the line marked straight is so with tho thread. If the goods of which the sleeves are made is narrow, the seam must be made on the cross, as the diagonal line must be on the true bias. When cut and basted carefully, the plaits should be laid in as marked and firmly fastened and the two places marked C brought together, so that B comes over the three plaits and the two A's meet. Then the seam should be basted and sewed, when the result will be a real leg of mutton sleeve, like the diagram, and the plain part on the top allows for a bertha or bretelle without throwing it out of shape. The sleeves to evening dresses are all modified balloon shape, but short, coming in some cases quite to the elbow, but more often finished off about four inches from the seam, with a band over which the puff falls. The sleeve should be rounded up X% inches toward the inside to permit the puff to fall outward well. .»__.,____

NEW HAIRDRESSING. Fashionable Stylos For Women, "With n Whispered Prophecy to the Sterner Sex. For evening wear the hair is dressed somewhat hitrher than it was a little while ago and is being much ornamented. Diamonds, aigrets, combs and flowers are worn with often very beautiful and striking effect. Waved bandeaux nro extremely becoming to women with really good, well cut features, accentuating and strengthening these good poiuts. The hair is parted in

the middle and waved down each side of the face. The back hair is done in a large knot. A comb can be added if ornament is considered necessary. The front hair is arranged in small curls which often come to a poisS in the middle of the forehead. An untidy bang is not now tolerated; every little curl must be carefully arranged and kept in place. To the stronger sex is now vouchsafed by a hairdresser, of words few, but mighty, a whispered prophecy. It is that the signs of the times point to a revival of another one of the fashions of 1830 or thereabouts—in short, that the locks of the Beau Brummels of 189-i will form a most intimate acquaintance with the curling iron. "Have they not been growing steadily longer?" he says, "and what more natural sequence, therefore, than a desire to relieve the monotony of undiversified length? Hence the curling iron." However, even the most exceptional hairdresser is liable to err, and it may be long before curls, other than nature's own aggressive and crisp ones, cluster round manly brows. A Fashionable "Dessous." The petticoat is bell shaped, trimmed with festoons of lace and set into a shaped band. It is made of striped silk. No. 2, the under petticoat, is the style; has hand embroidery trimming.

No. 3, chemise, ia either lawn or long cloth, with lace frill and straps to tie on the shoulders. No. 4, knickers to match. No. 5, a low petticoat bodice, with gathered waist. The armholes and waist are finished with lace insertion and ribbon bows. Tho New Skirts and Their Trimming. It is stated in a general way by Harper's Bazar that there is a tendency to reduce the amplitude of skirts, and furthermore the best dressmakers do not, at least for lightweight dresses, employ stiff facings of haircloth, buckram or crinoline in skirts. The new stuffs manufactured for winter, both in woolens and silks, are of the supple, clinging quality which lends itself so well to natural folds that the announcement made in some quarters seems credible that we are about to return to double skirts, or at least to skirts slightly draped. Braid is employed on substantial woolens, such as serges, cheviots and cloths, set on in spaced rows of the wider kinds or in cluster rows of narrow widths. Some simple tailor gowns have three or four rows of braid placed at 30 inches above the lower edge, about where the folds of the skirt emanate. Grandmother's Chain Again In Fashion. The old fashioned chain, slender and fine, that our grandmothers wore we are wearing now, says a New York exchange; at least those of us fortunate enough to have had a grandmother of such elegant taste. And we wear them just as she did, passed twice around the neck, so that they display a heart shaped locket at the throat and another at the waist. The watch is not worn on these chains, which have been christened by the unpoeticalnameof "dangles." but pinned on the shoulder, or, the latest wrinkle, inserted in the left hand glove, as formerly it was set into the purse or card case.