London Fashions.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1057, 2 June 1892, Page 6

London Fashions.

(FROM OUR OWN CORRESPONDENT.) London, April 6 Kussia And things Russian being much Under discussion just now, though in connection with such terrible matters as famine, desperation and death, has given rise to a demand for fashions and customs of the unhappy territories of the Czar in wearing apparel, amongst them being additionally heavy furs, and the Russian capote, which seems likely to be very much worn this winter. I give a sketch of this pretty and becoming head dress as the millinery design this week.

A perfectly flat net cap, fitting the crown of the head, forms the foundation, oblong in form rather than round ; this is covered with rolls of fine cloth —red, embroidered with black braid (narrow silk), or black, with narrow gold braid—so arranged in our English version that the front may be low, and the folds brought up to heighten the back. The brim or edge of the cap is formed of black bear fur, with the two crowns we have mentioned, or the substitution may be of chinchilla, with a grey velvet crown or grey embroidered cloth, silver fox fur with fawn-coloured crown, and so on, according to the gown or mantle with which it is to be worn. A verry pretty bonnet for winter wear is of copper-coloured velvet, edged with a band of silver, and trimmed in front with a cluster of ostrich tips and rosette bow of velvet. Your winter season is rapidly approaching, and evening dresses must be considered and prepared, more especially where made at home, well in advance, for there is always so much to be done in the way of needlework for friends, a little extra warm clothing for poor pensioners, and many little extras for our home circles and ourselves, that if left too late the important gowns du bal get 4 rushed ’ at the last moment, probably ending by being in the hurry more extravagant and less successful than would have been the case had they been concocted In calmer moments.

As the second sketch I give two models of evening dresses which may be found

useful for new evening frocks, or doing up last winter's for less important occasions than this.

It is a plain-fitting bodice and gored skirt of salmon pink Surah silk. Round the decoletage and hips is a flouncing of white silk blonde lace, headed by puffings of salmon pink chiffon, which has a soft and pretty effect. A good authority says: 4 Eveuing dresses are made with very low bodices, either square or round, but an inner chemisette is worn inside, which comes up a good deal higher than the bodice, though not quite up to the throat. The chemisette is of lace or guipure, or of tulle spotted with coloured chenille.’ A very pretty evening dress for a young girl is of cream-coloured bengaline, brocaded with small sprays of rosebuds The bodice is separate from the skirt; the back and side pieces are plain ; the front is gathered with a narrow heading on to a plain yoke of guipure lace, lined with pink silk, and finished with a plain collar. A lace frilling is put on 4 en bretelles ’ over the shoulders, and comes tapering down to the waist on each side of the front. The skirt is very slightly gathered, the edge of the bod : ce L slipped inside, and a peaked belt of black velvet put on over both. The skirt is trimmed round the foot with a flounce put on with a heading, and edged with lnce. The sleeves are cut out in tabs round the edge over a lace frilling. While we are beginning to think of spring garments—though it is yet too cold to leave off the cosy furs which are so becoming—you will want some more ideas than those I have already sent you regarding the winter cloaks. The great objection to the fur-trimmed dresses seems to mo that if on the bodice, _ the fur quickly rubs and looks shabby ; if on the skirt, round the hem, it bo quickly catches the mud. But it is greatly worn, or jis substitute, astrachan. One of the most elegant and yet most simple wraps I have seen for some time is sketched as the third note. Indian red cloth is the material, and it io made fitting closely to the back and sides, but the fronts loose and stra : ght as the 4 Reefer ’ jackets are now worn. A species of 4 bell ’ sleeve has come into vogue just lately, worn over

a closer fitting one to the elbow. Such is introduced into thia mantle or coat, and the whole is’trimmed with black military braid and black astrachan. The recingote dress, of black or coloured velvet, is a great success for very dressy toilets. Ibis either quite plain, or, for the evening, opens over a skirtfront of light coloured silk, trimmed with brocaded tulle or lace. In that case the bodice also opens over a plastron to match. The shape of the sleeve does not change much ; they are still cut on the cross, very wide and full at the top, and tapering down to the wrists, where they are fastened with a number of small buttons Roselle.