London Fashions.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1056, 26 May 1892, Page 5

London Fashions.

(FROM OUR OWN CORRESPONDENT.) London, March 30. A natty and stylish little hat forms the subject of our millinery sketch this week. Largo hats, though picturesque and becoming, are not the most comfortable or suitable far wearing in cold weather ; they cannot be fixed so firmly on the head, and usually defy any efforts Eo wear a veil, however keen and cutting wind or frost may render one, so that a smaller and more compact form of hat is always a sensible addition to the millinery department, especially to neuralgic subjects and those prone to indulging freely in colds.

Tne turned-up brim of this shape is covered with black astrachan, and the crowu is composed of two thick walls, so to speak, one within the other, of dark green velvet on a very low foundation crown. A group of velvet bows and black ostrich tips complete the back, one tip curling over the hair towards the left side. These jaunty and comfortable hats look particularly well with tailor-made costumes, with tight-fitting jackets-or pilot coats. I am sorry to see that women still persist in using birds and plumage for decorating themselves, But, alas, not

content with adorning bats with humming birds, these heartless folk are now making entire vests for bodices of - the gay, brilliant plumage of these beautiful littl.6 creatures. The feathers are arranged in various patterns, and though the colours are vivid, their appearance is never garish. The bodices thus adorned are delightfully varied and proportionately expensive, but their costliness will soon be overcome, or rather inexpensive substitutes for the humming bird’s feathers will doubtless be found that will make a sufficiently good effect for the majority of wearers. In various shades of green, which are not difficult to obtain, such a vest might be made to look very effective, whilst for a couutry costume even pheasants’ feathers might be utilised for the purpose, if women will persist in clothing themselves with the plumage of birds, as the use of these latter and some other varieties would involve no special slaughter on account of fashion.

Some of the bodices now. worn are very pretty, and require a good deal of nice fitting. Of stylish indoor bodices the second illustration is a good example, This is of thick homespun grey, with a black check line running through it ; the ‘ Tnoroyable ’ revers, flap pockets, cuffs, and- buttons are of black velvet, the gored skirt having a border of the same. Some charming evening bodices are now worn of pale shades of Liberty silk or pongee, honeycombed, and embroidered with white, silver and gold thread, which make most successful toilettes for occasions where ddcolletde and short sleeves are not necessary. Very pretty chiffon vests are now being made to wear with open jacket bodices. The chiffon is gathered at the neck and waist, finished off with a little frill below the waist. ’ One of the objections to the half-length ‘ Barrister ’ cloaks has been the muffling up of the hands, which is often inconvenient, especially for shopping. This objection is obviated by the most recent method of cutting them —namely, with insufficient opening under the overlapping 3leeve portion of the cloak to admit of the arms passing through, thus allowing the carrying freely of muff, umbrella, or bag.

The model our sketch is taken from is made of terracotta coloured velveteen, the high collar and fastenings being of thickly jetted black gimp ; an edging and heavy, deep fringe of the same trimming back and front in yolk fashion completes the trimming. This cloak would look remarkably elegant worn over a black gown with a small bonnet of jetted Straw, and black velvet. . • - . A useful kind of travelling cloak is made a 3 follows :—lt is of vicuna, of the colour known as ‘ bois de rose/ and beaver velvet. This cloak forms a redingote, open behind and attached by two buttoned claws over a small train of beaver velvet. The front forms a vest cut open and fixed with silver buttons, while the back forms a little collar gathered at the lengths The collar and trimming of the

front are of skunk. The sleeves highshouldered, with paramenta of beaver velvet with silver buttons, and the border of skunk. _ Roselle.