Fashion Notes.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1037, 15 January 1892, Page 6

Fashion Notes.

Ladies who read about the coming autumn styles, and are still in doubt what to buy, fearing to inveefc in anything which may pass out of fashion, should put those fears to the wind, and go and boldly expend their funds upon the best cheviot, tweed, or homespun to be found. Have it made by a dressmaker who understands how to get "P a tailor-made gown, have it bound by braid the narrowest you can obtain, and then get a hat to match the braid, gloves to match the hat, shoetops to match the gloves, a shopping bag to match the shoes, and a veil to match the shopping bag and you may be sure that you cannot possibly look out of date.

Veils will be much worn next autumn and winter. There are some pretty novelties coming out. The ‘Muscovite tulle with little chenille spots, and the * Lleun veil, in black with a border, and spots of white lace flowers, are both charming ‘finishers to a pretty bonnet. The 1 Fleuri’ is sometimes m znousseline de soie instead of tulle.

Boas will be very fashionable in the autumn, and a novelty in this line is one which is named the ' Collarette Page , made in curling ends of what iB called Come e velvet. Another favorite boa will be the * Czarewitch’ in cocks’ feathers of glistening shades, and descending in a point, while the collar is formed of smoother plumage from the same bird. A muff to match makes this look very stylish and pretty.

Cord is being much used by the dressmakers. A new combination of colour ia grey and a red coffee brown.

Satin rosettes are very fashionable for hat trimmings and I sometimes see as many as five rosettes of different shades in one hat.

Black leghorn straws are much worn by young girls. They are twisted about m all directions—in front, at the back, at the sides, everywhere in fact—and are trimmed with chiffon and ribbon bows.

Skirts are now made with and without foundations, and brocade is employed for the waistcoat. A smart style is for the actual bodice to end at tbe waist, and the brocaded waistcoat to fall some eight inches below.

Waistcoats for wearing with woollen or cloth costumes of one colour are made of sil r or satin, embroidered by hand, or broche satin with a small flower pattern, the ground being always light, and the flowers in the natural colours.

Ribbons of tinsel or velvet are largely employed as trimmings, some being brought from under the armholes, crossed under tne bust, fastened on each side seam, and tied in long ends below the waist. This is a case where every woman can study her own figure and give her fancy full scope, but it may be remarked that it is a style best suited to full bodices.

Bedingotes and coats of every description are supreme this year. In all the ccnlar is turned down, and the fronts are turned bac* at the neck. The Duchess of Fife has had several of them made for her stay in the north. She, however, fastens the coat in tee front with two buttons only, and sometimes only with one, at the point where the top revers meet. The fronts then fall quite straight, and show a handsome waistcoat beneath.

Bonnets are still very small and flat ; some are a mere stiffened square of velvet, edged with passementerie or jet ; one corner rests on the head in front, and another is turned up at the back, where the trimming of ribbon and feathers inaigretti form is placed. These bonnets are made in plain and shot velvet, and are stylish _ and uncommon, but for ordinary wear there is nothing better than the black velvet capote with trimming of jet and a knot or rosette of bright orange coloured velvet.

Hats made entirely of velvet are very stylish. These have straight or only slightly bent brims, and flat or draped crowns. A lovely model is a dark emerald green velvet with a piping of tilleula green velvet bordering its brim ; the trimming consists of dark green satin ribbon and a plume of curled coque feathers, and another has the brim of black velvet, and the crown of blue velvet ; the crown is full, but flattened at the top, and wider here than at fclie base; a band of fine jet passementerie encircles the crown, and a jet aigrette and plume of black feathers com plete the trimming.

Bodices with deep basques are most generally worn, while those which are cut short have a gathered frill of lace material, or more often than not are finished with a deep passementerie drop trimming, which really lends a basque effect.

Tiger skin cloth is the greatest novelty. A Princess dress made by a London dressmaker in a fine material‘ of this pattern was cut closely to the figure. It was double breasted and had deep pleates down the back of the bodice, fastening at the side, the wide revers trimmed with fur, and it had a yellow silk vest in front.

A pretty conceit in the way of a toilette, which, although bizarre, is curiously effective, is a black Brussels net, on which multitudinous swallows are embroidered in jet beads. This, worn over a gown of clear sunset yellow, gives the effect of a flight of birds silhouetted against an evening sky.

Flounces to the waist are making tneir appearance. They are graduated m width, and about nine flounces will bo the proper complement for a skirt. The top flounce is f et in with the waist band.