London Fashions

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1024, 16 October 1891, Page 15

London Fashions

(FROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT.) London, August 23. Scarlet and black was a very favourite combination for our spring millinery; even now the same shades are appearing, and a great many bonnets are seen at the principal milliner’s of scarlet entirely, of the most vivid hue. A very chic and pretty hat forms the subject of the millinery sketch this week of the black and

scarlet combined, the shape (a natty and becoming one) having a fine black straw crown and black lace brim turned up front and back, the sides bending slightly downwards. Arranged round the low crown, slightly bunched in front, and still more so and higher at the back, are twists of the scarlet velvet, with, at the back, quillings of black lace ; and on the back and front are perched two black jetted butterflies. Some of the fancy straws shown this spring wero excessively pretty and tasteful, and make up charmingly with lace and flowers. It was seriously discussed the other day whether bright colours were more suited to bright climates than to dull ones, and we all agreed that, as a rule, tho most brilliant hues appeared more in keeping with warm sunshine and tropical flowers than under grey skies, with an absence of a gay flora. As in tho East the smart clothes usually worn are perfectly harmonious with the prevailing bright tones of colouring in nature and decoration. All the leading Paris firms (says The Queen) are using thick silk, and even cloth, for ball and evening dresses. Very little tulle is used, but sometimes gauze, wfth satin stripes or gold and silver threads. They are made up with a trimming of flowers round the low bodice for young girls, and feather border for married women. The light-coloured silks and satins are richly embroidered on the skirt; tho bodices are made of gauze draped over plain silk, with the Byzantino waistband or belt (a sort of corselet) covered with jewels, placed amid the embioidory—extremely rich at d handsome ; or, for young girls, tho belt is simply worked with gold thread. A stylish evening or dinner bodice is the subject of my second illustration.

This is made, as to over bodice, of old rose silk, half length ‘ Louis’ shape, and edged with black jet beading, tho sleeves, under bodice, shirt, and lining of ‘Medici’ collar are or chiffon the same tint, the ribbon tying the fulness in at the waist being also of old rose Bilk. A double jet bandeau is worn on the hair to complete this toilet, and where gloves are required they should be black kid to the elbow. Black shoes embroidered with jet heading would also be beat to carry out the scheme of the toilette, ....

Another very much admired dinner dress is made of a satin skirt, trimmed over with a lace skirt of black lace, sewn over with' butterflies of different sizes. The apron draped with coral mousseline de sols/bordered on the two sides with a row of little feather heads, which rise up to the corsage, where they form epaulets a Cleopatra belt and fringe of jet, making a grand point.

The last illustration is an exceedingly chic walking costume, made in the latest style. The model was of blue, checked with fawn, the material being a very light cloth, the vest was of fawn silk ; the skirt perfectly plain, whilst the bodice was in the coat style, with large smoked pearl buttons. The hat of fawn straw, with blue cornflowers, and the fashionable veil, tan gloves. Head-dresses of fruit end foliage in .filigree and tinsel wire are intermixed with bows of ribbon velvet, and would appear particularly the properity of young matrons ; while coiffures for the hair made entirely of flowers are arranged in demi or round wroaths. For an evening wrap much favour has been shown to the old-fashioned circular shape, which entirely covers the dress and is gathered at the neck into a high-shaped collar, and finished with a dainty little hook. It is made in plain cloth or cashmere, lined silk. The plain crape fans of last year, made ready to be painted by the skilful fingers of ladies, now appear in a wider range of colours, and edged with a handsome rococo border. The border is laid, with cut-out edge, on the crape, so that stuff and lace blend well together. Very handsome hoods for evening wear are made of satin, edged around with a silk ruche. Now that trains have again gained predominance , among evening dresses they will soon be finding their way into the ballroom, even if only on the silk dresses of ladies who do not dance. Trains should always bo trimmed to match the rest of the dress, either with feathers, rucliing or flowers, mostly without leaves Yellow, in every possible shade, from tho palest corn to the deepest tint of marigold, is the colour par excellence of the season. It predominates in all materials, from the richest silk to airy tulle, but as it is not everyone who can_ wear this colour, many of the prettiest toilettes are repeated in white, cream and turquoise, and other light colours, losing none of their beauty by their change of tint. Roselle.