Opening of the Grorge Line.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 993, 13 March 1891, Page 12

Opening of the Grorge Line.

THE JOURNEY UP- - MONDAY, MARCH 9. (from our special correspondent.) A magnificent morning. We got away at 7-30, exactly to time. Up to the last moment people were arriving. The Railway Commissioners, a Minister of the Crown, a little knot of members of Parliament, prominent citizens galore, well known pressmen, ladies in cool, pleasant costumes, faces at all the windows of the long train, the urbane Mr Wallace and his assistants arranging matters, cries of “Times,” expressions of delight every where at the fine weather — it was trnly a pleasant scene and a busy. When we got away we found the long Pullman cars of the Manawatu very pleasant to travel in. Up to the first summit on the I*4o grade we toil, straining and puffing, and making good time ; suddenly we shoot ahead at express speed. Everybody crieß, “We are on the level.” We all settle down to enjoyment of the pace—a new thing in this part of the world. It suggests visions of a daily express. Enterprising spirits get so far as to actually suggest that some day there will be an express to Napier in seven hours, part of a Bervice which will enable a man to get to the growing city of the eastern coast, have two houra for bis business and return to Wellington, all in the at present fabulous space of Bixfceen hours. “ Why not ?” aeks everybody. Down beside the Tawa Flat, lying pictnro esqne in the morning sun, we fly. “Handgome is as handsome does,” says the proverb. Not a man who has ever owned land here has lost money ; no mortgages; nothing bat stock in grand condition, grazing in beautiful hills rolling down pleasantly to the flat.

On we go past the beautiful Porirua inlet; the tide is in. We fly as along a fair lake, with fine rolling hills on either side. A couple of fishermen in their boat slowly paddling out over the glassy water towards the heads, are the only signs of human life. We run past the heads, with Mana rising eteep out of the sea, gr&BB covered and hold, and presently we are bowling comfortably through Plimmerton, of many memories of

the old Maori time. A plaoe of call for the Maori canoes. They used to come here and wait for a fair wind to take them across to the South Island yonder, 19 miles distant A thriving plaoe it was, with some 3000 Maori inhabitants. Hero is tho spot where Te Rauparaha was captured in the night by tho order of one even more crafty and resolute than he. There is the Horokiwi Valley, up which Rangihaeata retreated after his return from the Wairsu massacre. He extended his men in skirmishing order and draw off, the military following with respect for hi 3 bravery and astonishment at his skill. It - was the beginning of the end for the Maori. All ibat is left of the flourishing settlement of tho old days is yonder burial ground fenced iu by the Manawatu Company. Ivapiti comes into view as we reach the top grade at Pakeroa, and the paco slackens.

In a few moments we are out on tho West Coast, the steep hill cuttings are left behind, we reach the alluvial plain which extends from hare without a break to Taranaki. Just here it is a chain wide, further on it is 30 miles. The. sandhills between the plain and the sea are soon in sight, and after a little more fast going we reach Paikakariki, where we stop to water ; 3.40, 27 miles.

Wo are off again, bowling away at high speed. The plain widens every moment, getting richer and richer. We pass P*raparanmn, the picturesque ; the forest comes in sight ; the country is park-like with clumps of timber and. grass ; huts are scattered about in sheltered nooks ; blue smoke rises up in curling colnmns into tho air.

On to Waikanae, further from the sea. Deeper into the forest, until we find ourselves running through beautiful foliage, characteristic and plentiful. Eveiy moment the scene changes. After a batch of forest, without sign of human habitation, come open, low grazing hills, with deep swampy flats, raupo, and flax, brightening tho green. After them great stretches of cleared country, the grey logs lying thick, the grass growing up around luxuriant and green, stock are everywhere, houses abound here and there, a woolshed rises into view. On the land side the low range carries a crown of forest, on the sea side the high land of Kapiti* dominates the scene ; there are patches of timber amongst the rolling grassy country, then forest and clearing alternate with stretches of open plain. The forest falls away right and left, we arc travelling through a country of fences, grass, and straggling timber, the grass yellowing, again the forest thickens, and then we cross the Otaki River, we find ourselves travelling along the Otaki Plain—a grand country—and soon we are at the little station—time, 9.35. We water, we take up a reinforcement of excursionists, and wefare off again, through a country inexpressibly rich iD grassacd vividly picturesque. We are opening up the great western plain running midway between the sea and the ranges. Mount Crawford on our right with Mitre Peak are the landmarks in the amphitheatre of hills opening out on that side. We plunge again into the forest; we pass some wonderful fern glades glorious in delicacy of tracery, and rioh in many shades of green. Little knots of houses come into view ; here and there a solitary hut ; clearing succeeds clearing in the forest, vistas of clearings come into view at every conceivable angle as we rush along. In places the forest i 3 half park, log strewn, and great growths of thistle cover the laud disputing possession of the soil with the grass. The Waikawariver bed gleams white araoDgst its fringes of green and yellow as we pass. We are nearing Shannon, the hills have oome into view on the land side once more ; bolder in outline they are ; higher too, piling up behind one another with every vnriety of bold outline, and densely timbered. Wo rash once more into forest, thick on either side without a break, untouched by the hand of man save for the railway clearing. Maori land this, 40,000 acres, the finest in the world ; great masses of luxifriant fern trees telliDg of the quality of the soil. In this couutry lies tho Horovvhenua Lake.

Two openings,, stony land where the forest never grew, make breaks in the forest with dreary poverty in the midst of the richness around ; we reach and pass tho little settlement of Levin ; and once more we are in the heart of tho forest. Kereru, with its rich clearing, reminds us that we are near the Manawatu River, sweeping round with southerly curve, cn its way to tho sea. Once more the forest opens, there is a grea; sweep of tci grass, the tall bright heads shining in the sun ; there is a stretch of raupo, then a sunlit shining pl„in gives us a clear view of distaut forest and high timbered range running down Into the low country, with every now and then a long vista reaching away into the far distance between parted summits ; it is a valley of some mountain stream. In the midst of shifting scenes of richness like these we pass Shannon. We see the smoke of chimney fire 3 giving a new blue to the charming landscape ; the ground falls intoswampy loam, over hundreds of acres of which the Toi grass waves, and the bright green of the Koromiko throws a lustre. The forest closes up about us once more for a mile or so, and then we rush out on the edge of the Makenxa swamp—miles of green Raupo, bounded in the far distance seaward and northward by a low line of hills; a fringe of forest ahead and astern ; on our right the ranges in half circles ; far away down the expanse of shimmering Raupo is the river Manawatu. Tongues of forest through which we are flying hide the swamp at Intervals from our eyes ; and finally wo leave ita yellowing surface and blue boundaries with regret. The Fitzherbert country looms up on our right, and Linton begins to show in our front. We pass a regiment of small swamps, intersected by streams with flax along their margins. The green of the surface is beginning to yellow In great broad patches, for all the world like a field of ripening corn. The paco slackens ; we pass Linton ; we taka leave of tho forest for good. The Manawatu River, blue in its white ed, shines into view. Presently wo oross 1 it, and are BpinniDg through a pleasant open

country at the rate of knots. Wo roach Longburn at 10 55, having _ duly notiood (very much noticed) the flourishing freezing works as we pass. Standing on the platform, we are in the middle of a great cleared plain, with picturesque clumpa of bush standing up amongst the rich pastures aud cultivations. Northward the plain sweeps Wanganui-wards and eastward also towards Napier. luland it stretches away towards the ranges, between which there is a gap- It is the opening through which tho Manawatu River flows—tho famous Manawatu Gorge, in fact. Iu remote times the stream burst through the range, and thenceforth there were two ranges—the Ruahine, northward of tho gap, ar-d the Tararua, south of the same. We realise as we look back that the Pararuas are the ranges which havo been our laudward boundary of vision since we left Pfiikakariki. AT PALMERSTON. Arrived in a few minutes at Palmerston (exact time 10.55) we were met by half the population. The Mayor and Councillors met the Miuister (the Hon W. P. Reeves) on the platform, and extended welcome to all and sundry, and then we adjourned for lunch, whioh was served in the marquee erected in the principal square of tha town. There was but a small attendance. Owing to some mishap the Mayor’s invitation reached neither all the members of Parliament present, nor the Directors of the WellingtonManawatu Railway Company. The Minister of Public Works was present with his colleague, and the Railway Commissioners were there 100. Mr Reeves, at the invitation of the Mayor, said a few words. He excused his intention to be brief on tho score of the shortness of time allowed ; the Commissioners, who are above all Governments, forcing him to be in readiness to start from this place not later than 12. He congratulated all present on the great day they were celebrating. They were, he said, buckling the belt, " tho last link in the long chain which Is to gird the loins of New Zealand. Generally such occasions were the cause of gloom to inland towns, which often Buffer on the establishment of through communication. This could, be flattered himself, never be the fate of He dilated on the beantiful country he had gone through that day ; ho said many pleasant things, and he said them in a pleasant way. which placed him on the very best terms with bis hospitable entertainers; and ho ended by excusing himself for cutting short his remarks. There was, ho added, a fearful rumour that another lunch awaited them at Woodville. He could only say that like brave men he and his friends would do their duty. They looked forward without flinching to the “gorge” at Woodville. (Laughter.) He congratulated the Mayor and citizens on the future before them, and thanked them on behalf of hi 3 colleagues and himself for their attention.

Mr McKerrow, after the customary congratulations, endorsed what Mr Reeves had said about the beuefit to be derived by Palmerston from tbo opening up of the Gorge. Its magnificent country and its position at the junution of the railways of the East and the We3t were guarantees for the future prosperity of the place. Having thanked the Mayor for his treatment of the Commissioners, Mr McKerrow ended. The Mayor read an apology from Mr Macarthur, M.H.R., and invited Mr Wilson to say a few words, which that gentleman did with great neatness and despatch. He was reminded by the occasion of Tennyson’s expression, “Joining hands aoross the sea they were joining hands that day across the Gorge. He hoped . that tho George would never give them any more trouble from an engineering point of view. He regretted the absence of the Premier. He complimented the Minister of Education, on the manner in which ho had represented him, and he said many things of a pleasant and pleasing character. PALMERSTON TO THE GORGE. Leaving Palmerston we are seen off by the whole population, which cheers us with great energy. It seems as if we shall never get out of the town ; we steam ahead at express speed, and tho bouses, straggling of course they are, seem to keep pace with us. At last we shake them off, and fly over the magnificent plain. The stumps proclaim on every acre the story of sturdy colonisation that has been enacted. As far as the eye oan ree, stumps—as far as the eye can reach, grass surprisingly rich. We cross the plain here 30 miles wide, and we approaoh the hills, which get lower. The northern view is bounded by a terrace under which we are running towards Ashurst. Small homesteads, young orchards with bright apples showing on the yoimg trees, myriads of paddocks with millions of logs half scorched, stark and stiff, awaiting the judgment of final dissolution ; grass usurping the places of tho dead before the bodies are out of the way. A waggoner driviug his great team to the hills lazily for logs for a sawmill, who lifts hia whip sleepily in our honour as we rush past him ; a knot of children cheering with Bhrill pipes as wo whirl by the paternal back gate ; the broken surface of the plain dotted with clumps, the hills half burnt, becoming daily more grassy ; in the southern distance the summits of Tararua rising 5000 ft, the vista of the Tokomaru Valley making picturesque break; the ranges in the opposite direction growing lower and lower ; afar off to the eastward a blue hazy line of hills marking tho Napier country—all these things we notice as we go along ; and then we reach Ashurst, where we observe the Gorge has opened out into view —a pleasant picturesqne looking plaoe enough from here, with its soft covering of tree tops waving in the breeze. We have come to the first Ti tree since leaving the coast. We go on after surveying Ashurst, and soon find ourselves curving towards the Gorge. A cutting hides the world on either side. Wo come out on the edge of a beautiful little piece of river land, shady with trees wide opart-—a beautiful patch of forns at one end spreading up tha encircling terrace. Wo skim round this patch, and wo reach the Ruahine Range, running along the track cut Into Its base. In a few minutes we sweep round into the Gorge. The hilla

are abrupt, forest covered ; on the other side is the old coach road, looking like a bridle track—narrow it seems, not the road to go with a skittish horse. Below the river is running calm and still at the entrance to the Gorge, spreading out into a handsome reaoh, which branches off into two different directions. Ahead the side of Ruahine grows suddenly steeper. Then down from a vast height a loose, limp, almost upright, hillside looks down upon us. Pierced by a tunnel it is, and on the river side there is a v»Bt mass of loose earth—the remains of the last land slip. Before we have time to consider, there is a wild roar, and we are buried in tho tunnel. Steadily travelling, we oome out into the sunlight, and find tho Bame sort of couutry ; the same looae formation, but not so much of it; then another tunnel, after which bard rock comforts the eye on the mountain side. Ever and anon a few yards of tunnel, now and then a little bridge spanning an impossible gully all precipice or shingle, the river below alternating between steady reaches and tumbling, foaming rapids. And so we go on gliding round the many curves of this frowning place, the eye now searching the bill above, now resting on the steep forest, on the other side cut in two with that everlasting coach road. Presently, as we wind round with the liver, the hills grow less steep ; the natural angle reassures the eye, the Gorge becomes more like a valley. The sharp end of the Tararua ranges comes in sight covered with noble forest—the old traffic bridge—the great engineering triumph of former times—springs up beside the rumbling train, and we shoot out into the Woodville plain. The Rnahines sweep round one side, high summits rising blue over the dark foothills in the smoky hazy air. Ou the right the ranges rise a little towards the Wairarapa. A vast stretch of rich fertile country goes rolling away towards Pabiatua and Eketahuna. In front the tips of the ranges ever so many miles off rise faint in the gauzy atmosphere. It is a fair scene—in a young country—log strewn, with serried Btumps, everywhere to tell of the impenetrable forest of old. A few miles off are scattered houses looming large. As we approach we realise as we did at Palmerston, the vistas of a well laid out town. They will one day he filled with handsome houses. Some good houses there are already. It is Woodville, the northern gate” of the Forty Mile Bush. The Mayor, Mr Burnett, meets the Ministers and Commissioners, there is a large crowd of pecple, and the place is “ en fete.” THE LUNCHEON AT WOODVILLE. Lunch was served at tho Club Hotel in the best style of mine host Murphy, and much discussed. Mr Burnett, after the meal, Baid a few words of introduction, and introduced the Hons Messrs Seddon and Reeves to the company-. The Hon R. Seddon complimented Woodville aod New Zealand on the railway- connection established that day. He said that but for the enterprise of the Manawatu Company this connection would not have been made ao soon. Another link yet remained, however. He alluded to the Pahiatua country, which had not yet had justice done to it. He referred also to the aids to colonisation now so numerous. Amongst others the meat works established at Woodville ; that he regarded as an instance of the many good things people might have if they chose to help themselves by putting their hands into their pockets. Coming to the Railway Commissioners, he said they were in power by the wisdom of Parliament. They had received the line ju3t opened, as they had a right to do, having been appointed for the purpose of taking over all the opened linos. Much mischief was done by the newspapers “ going for ” the Commissioners. During hia time Mr MoKerrow had assured him of many things, amongst others that ho had provided a wire rope for the Gorge. He did not know what the rope was for, unless it was to suspend tho representative of the “ Evening Post.” The company laughed heartily at the Minister’s sally-. Mr Seddon, resuming, said ho could assure them that the Commissioners yy-cre not nearly so black as they were painted. He took this opportunity of declaring that he had every confidence in the Gorge line. An impression had got abroad that this line was dangerous. The Commissioners bad taken every precaution, and ha was satisfied they would succeed. After many more reassuring remarks, Mr Seddon concluded by asking the company to drink success to the Woodville district, aud ho coupled the toast with the Mayor and Councillors, and the representatives past and present.

Mr Burnett thanked Mr Seddon and the company in suitable terms. Mr W. C. Smith, as tho ex-meraber of the district, added a few words. Ho testified to the advantage of the opening to both Eaßt and West Coasts, and he reciprocated what the Minister of Public Works had said of the necessity for completing the line from Eketahuna.

Mr Hogg, as present member, eulogiasd the railway as constructed through the Gorge. He thought Wellington, whioh other speakers had spoken of as the first port in -New Zealand, would reap the greatest advantage. The Gorge might be slippery, but it was, he felt sure, safe. As for Woodville, its prosperity was too woll assured to be injured by the opening of through communication. He thanked the Mayor for the cordiality with whioh they had been entertained.

•Mr J. C. McKerrow told the company that the connection opened np and made available 500 miles of railway. He humourously alluded to certain late events, remarking that tha Commissioners were hardly popular here, but their cordiality that day had removed all evil impressions of that kind. Extending tho horizon, he said that he had perfect confidence in the wisdom of Parliament, which had been referred to as having placed the Commissioners in their present position. When the time for which they had been appointed was up, he felt sure it would be found that tho work of the Commissioners had justified the wisdom of Pailiament. Among so many members as ho saw around him, it was not possible for him ta doabfc the wisdom of Parliament,

and he did not doubt It. The company applauded the dry humour of these remarke. DEPUTATION AT WOODVILLE. Mr Burnett introduced a strong local deputation So the Minister of Publio Works and the Chief Commi-ssioner. He explained that the district Ivan ted a rearrangement of tho train service, remarking that they were in a better position before the railway was opened than they are now. He urged the importance of the increase in traffic from the Pahiatua County, the new freezingworks, and ether things. Could they not have a service as formerly, so that they might go to Napier and back in a lay ? Mr McKerrow admitted that the new arrangements wero not quite so good as of old. But, it had been found impossible to continue the same privileges to Woodville, as tbo exigencies of tho through service had to be considered. He assured them, however, that, if the business improved, he would ba ready to meet the wishes of the Woodville people. Mr Carlyle asked if the through trains would carry stock. This was a very crucial point, and there was much conversation. Ultimately Mr McKerrow said the through train might in special cases carry stock, warning to bo given to the traffic manager. Tho management did not wish to put people to any inconvenience. Mr Hogg, M.H.R., reminded the Commissioner that Woodville was not fairly treated, probably because it was not appreciated as the fastest growing township in the interior ought to be. He thought that a serious Injustice had been done to Woodville by the removal of departmental headquarters to Danevirko.

Mr Carlyle said the butter trade had been ruined by the new arrangements. Mr Hyde enlarged on this subject greatly; everybody was fidgety. Time was pressing ; the train time had come.

Mr Burnett made some suggestions about the trains.

After much discussion Mr McKerrow said that the arrangements were not tm-, alterable. The Commissioners only wishes were to consult the convenience of the people, with due regard of course to the expenditure. Mr Seddon said that he and his colleagues would do their best to persuade the Commissioners to help the people of Woodville. They had not the least wish to interfere with the Commissioners ; they were not permitted to do that. But after all this public expenditure on the railways the Government did not like to see any considerable public interest ineonvenienoed. He would tell the deputation that their conversation with the Commissioners ought to convince them of the wisdom of meeting them face to face. Mr McKerrow bad assured them that their rales were not like the Jaws of tho Medea aud Persians. The best thing for them to do if they wanted anything from the Commissioners would bo to meet them and have it out with them. They might rely upon it that when they did so the Commissioners would treat them fairly, and the Government would always be glad to give them the support of any influence they might be able to exercise. After a few remarks from Mr McKerrow, which dwelt on tha desire of the Commissioners to do what was right, the deputation withdrew, fairly well pleased with their quarter of an hoar’s work. Within a few minutes the train steamed out of the station, and got away for Palmerston on the return journey, returning in splendid style. We left at 2.50 and arrived at Palmerston at 3.30. ANOTHER DEPUTATION. At Palmerston the Mayor and Councillors waited upon the Railway Commissioners about two or three matters which had been the subject of a long correspondence. These were the return of a town section to the Municipality (No. 662) as not required any longer for railway purposes, and the over-bridging of the railway crossings at Pitt and Cook streets. In their case plans were Bhewn, and the Commissioners taken to see the place in question. Tho object of the deputation was to have a talk with the Com. missioners on these matters, and so as to arrive at a better understanding. The Commissioners promised consideration. THE RETURN JOURNEY. We left Palmerston at 5 o’clock and made great time homewards. There was much smoke in the air, hiding the hills entirely for miles. The fine weather of the last few days has evidently made some big burns possible. As we coma along the air clears after Longburn, and then we have more fires, vast clouds o£ smoke hang about. At half-past 6, after thundering along at a speed at times over 30 miles an hour, whirring over bridges, warning settlements with a booming whistle, we get to Otaki, one hour and five minutes after leaving Longburn. At 7.20 we are at Paikakariki ; night comes upon us soon, we speed on in the darkness, and at 9 sharp, advertised time, we run into the station. Everyone ou the long orowded train thoroughly pleased with his day’s outing. COST OF THE EXTENSION. Ashurst Contract ... ... £15,528 Gorge Contract ... ... ... 107,861 ) 2,000 Pohangina Bridge J 12,500 Tunnels No. 1 Contract ... ) „ No. 2 Contract" ... V 11,332 ~ Lining Contraot ... ) Pohangina • Woodville Permanent Way ... 3,007 Station Buildings Contract ... 113 Goodshed and Cattle Yards ... 328 Woodville Section ... ... ... 8.448 Rebate Cement ... ... ... 564 Wiliow Planting ... ... ... 50 Grade Pegs ... ... ... ... 25 Buildings ... ... ... ... 200 Sleepers ... ... ... ... 3,110 Sleepers for Bridges 276 Rails 15,000 Haulage and Railway Charges ... 1,218 Rolling Stock and Engineering ... 5,000 Contingencies and Wages... ... 4,340 Surveys ... 1,550 £191,750 N.B.—Tho dates of tho contracts go back to 1886 s