Fashion Notes.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 992, 6 March 1891, Page 6

Fashion Notes.

The fashionable handkerchief grows smaller and smaller. The square in the centre is not very mucli larger than a postage stamp, the lace frill making the rest of the kerchief, which in reality is only useful as a decoration. Fashionable veils are now worn long enough to cover the chin, and Russian net takes the place of most other nets, both for dresses and veils. The kind used for veils is fine, and proves more becoming than does any other kiud of veil nets. A stylish shoulder cape of grey cloth in a neutral tint, suitable for wearing with any gown, has a square yoke of maroon velvet, braided in steel and gold, and a huge rolled collar of the same velvet, turning back and revealing the lining of similar cloth. The cape is lined throughout with primrose silk. A very pretty tea frock for a girl of from 14 to 17 is of cream-coloured nun’s „ veiling, lavishly trimmed with shrimp pink watered > ribbon in two different widths. Three rows of the ribbon are placed upon the skirt, whilst long loops of the widest ribbon fall on one side, the ends of which are caught up at the waist under a rosette. The long sleeves are drawn lengthwise in small close puffings. An elegant costume made in Auckland is of silver-grey silk, the panel being richly embroidered with salt-coloured silk and applique of velvet flowers. The edge of the skirt is turreted and outlined with a band of curled grey ostrich featners. ihe bodice is made with a white silk vest, and trimmed with ostrich feathers and embroidery. A bonnet of grey velvet, relieved with white lace and grey chrysanthemums forms a most tasteful toilet. A very wide-brimmed Leghorn straw, hat with a low flat crown has the brim divided and bent upwards towards the back on the left side. A thick gilt plait ornaments the inside of the brim about an. inch from the edge, and the trimming consists of bows of narrow cream satin ribbon in front, loops of mixed cream and pink satin ribbon at the back where the brim is bent, and a spray of pink roses on the left side. Hats will he worn very large or otherwise exceedingly small this autumn, but all alike are very flat. Black felt or velvet hats heavily trimmed with ostrich feathers are more fashionable than coloured headgear. Still, there are many of the latter to bo seen in the milliner’s showrooms. A very elegant model is of the palest bine velvet, softened at the edge with narrow ostrich feather trimming. The hat is further enriched with silver passementerie, and is studded with imitation turquoise. Large steel and paste buckles are much worn on hats.

A handsome dress for weddings or stylish Jjarties is a brocade, bleu de France satin, with arge pink flowers. The skirt is made with a demi-train, very close-fitting on the hips, open on each side to show a narrow panel of old rose satin, covered with rose embroidery m soft tints mixed with caboeliins. The puffed flleeves are in tlie same pink satin, covered with embroidery. A row of pink feather edging goes round the front of the bodice, made half open, with points back and front, and cut very short below the waist. Another pretty evening bodice is named the * Pandora.’ It is made of crSpe de Chine on a semi-fitting lining of silk, which is V shaped back and front. The Bleeves are wide, full, and moderately high, reaching to a little below the elbow joint with a ribbon to confine, an inch or two of the sleeve showing below the ribbon ; the fullness of the sleeve at the lower edge is gathered into narrow compass at the back of the arm. The crgpe de Chine loosely drawn over the silk foundation comes to a point at the waist, where it is confined by a band and jewelled buckle, but the material is carried below the waist, forming there a basque of moderate depth. The V neck is bordered by a 3-inch frill of crepe de Chine, which is gathered very full, and so falling over the bodice makes a sort of berthe. Evening bodices are a great feature of present fashions. They are intended to utilise skirts of dresses, the bodices of which are either unfashionable, too much worn, or too small, or too large, or for some other reason, no longer available. One of the neatest bodices of this description is the ‘ Rosalie. It has a foundation of black silk merveillieux, with yoke and sleeves of fine black Russian net, on which black velvet shamrocks appear. The sleeves are wide and full, ending in a deep tight-fitting cuff. The top and lower edge of the cuff, as also the collar-band and the deep yoke, are outlined with an inch ana a half wide jet galon. So, too, the edge of the basque. The frill part of the blouse—for originally it Is extremely voluminous —is made to fit the shape by a series of gathers—four or five, according to length of waist, these being placed at equal distances. The bodice is made to fasten beneath the left arm, but the gatherings are _ elastic because the stitch employed in smocking is used. The day of white satin or silk bridal dresses is drawing to a close, and in a very short time no smart people will wear them. Coloured bridal gowns, or rather bridal gowns relieved by colour, will be all the fashion very soon. The most prejudiced opposer of new fangled ideas ’ can hardly deny that the dead white satin gown imposed upon brides by custom is a severe trial to complexions in broad daylight, whilst on a dull, wet day m midwinter such a garment has certainly a most depressing effect. Two recent brides m London of distinguished position have broken away from the bounds of conventionality in this respect, and their gowns will long be remembered as the most becoming. and charming bridal dresses of modern times. One was embroidered with coloured flowers, the other was adorned with bands of sable fur. Modistes prophesy that the thin end of the wedge has been inserted, and that henceforth we shall have more regard to effect m the decoration of bridal dresses.