Wellington Fashions.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 870, 2 November 1888, Page 4

Wellington Fashions.

Millinery always plays an important patt in the fashions of the day, consequently much ingenuity is exercised in ; contriving new'materials for use in making up the charming chapeaux and capotes destined to adorn the beads of the fair sex, to whom a becoming bonnet is the crowning'point of a finished toilet. ~ ■ ‘. Ribbons are lovely this season ; picot print-, edges have quite disappeared, and in their place are tape-like edges, and corded ones, giving a firmness that promises extra durability. The" ribbons are mostly striped in different kinds of weaving, three or four

varying widths in one ribbon—one will be of gros-grain, the second of ottoman, the third of smooth Batiny peau de aoie, and lastly a raised and figured stripe. Country readers would find it impossible to realise from mere words the wonderful combinations of shades used in millinery ; in fact, they are indescribable. Tans and blues, greys and greens, pinks and yellows, are mixed in what appear most bizarre ways, until the bonnet goes on the head, when, presto ! the outre effect vanishes, and only the becoming is left. Tulles and gauzes are mostly used in conjunction with flowers, and tinsel finds its way into crepe, net, tulle, and lace. I saw some exquisite bonnets at Thorndon House, made of gold-figured acropkane and lace, which had not the tinsel effect seen in many of the so-called gold materials, and is well, suited for the ambitious puffs and bows which tower so bravely above our heads now-a-days ; for though as regards absolute shape, bonnets are comewhat lower, the trimming is excessively high. A Pans bonnet had a rather high crown, and on the extreme top was placed the garniture of flame coloured ribben, set in large up-stand-ing loops and ends, with glorified bulrushes and brownish-green grasses rearing their beads amid the bows. Black lace looks extremely elegant trimmed with Marechale Neil roses, looking as if they were freshly gathered. Then the fancy straw bonneto are most attractive. Tuscan, chip, rice and pearl straws are seen in great variety, and are so pretty that they need little trimming, save the large bunch of flowers now general. The ‘Olivia,’you may remember, was worn last year, and seemingly retains its popularity, for it is still the shape oftenest seen ; the gable-like front filled in with tulle, and the flowers on each side, meeting in an arch on the top. : \ In hats, the Tosoa shape, with low flat crown and wide brim turned up from the face, will be largely adopted. Some models are in fine straw, coloured on the outside, but with black straw lining the brim. Leghorns with large brims bent and twisted into indescribable forma, just as suits the wearer s fancy or features, are much. worn. Nearly all the brims of hats are prominent; straight outward, curved upwards, bent up into a point, turned up one side and down the ether, or indented and flattened close to the crown, so there is no lack of picturesqueness. Drawn lisse or lace usually lines the brims, and the decorations are always massed high on the crown. Particularly noticeable are the black lisse and lace hats worn by women past their first yonth. These are trimmed with light sprays of natnral-looking flowers, as well as with clusters of rich fed roses or Gloire de Dijon, placed among the fulness of lisse or lace. . ... / Very little girls wear bonnets and frocks to match in pink or blue embroidered zephyr. The frocks are high, with long sleeves, for outdoor wear. I saw some lovely little models at Thorndon House, for special ooca. sions, composed entirely of white embroidered cambric in open patterns, to show the coloured slip beneath, and trimmed with watered ribbons, bonnet or hat to match. Of course, yon have heard of the new parasol or en-tont-oas, known as the hus-band-beater. They have long walking-stick handles with solid heads, and varnished bamboo sticks with plain metal tops altogether formidable looking affairs, which cannot be carried gracefully anyway. The fonr-foot handle refuses to adapt itself to any bnt the perpendicular position, and it looks so conspicuous that the wonder is how a lady can bring herself to carry one. Its introduction was caused by the immoderate height of fashionable head-gear which fo.rced the wearer to elevate her parasol. Should the fancy last, which I doubt, it is to be hoped that the handle will be furnished with a hinge so that it will double up, a very convenient style in use many years ago. Shot silk is generally seen in these parasols, and brilliant red is a favourite colour. Fortunately, ordinary parasols are plentiful, enough and handsomer than ever in Bilk, drawn muslin and lace, brocade and smocked satin ; all, however, have bows upon the handle. Mantles for summer wear are short in the back, with scarf-like ends in front. Many are merely lace and jet capes or pelerines, with long lace ends. Some are made of a foundation of strong firm net, covered with row upon row of black lace, four inches in depth, plaited finely, and trimmed with jet tassels. Many ladies will adhere to the pretty fashion of an outdoor covering made of the same material as the dress. The present shape is fichn-like, cut straight across the back, and brought down to the waist in front. I have

even seen the ever graceful Marie Antoinette fichu,, which crosses in front and is tied at the hack. Very novol are the newly-imported silk gloves with kid fingers. I should think them ,likely to be far more durable than all silk, decidedly pleasanter to wear. Tan shades:are still favoured above sll others. Once asaia- muslins are being mads up over colours .as in/the days of long ago, when girls always coloured silk slips in their wardrobes,, and now that embroideries are countless, a pretty and effective toilette is within the reach of everyone.

Among the revivals I must not forget to mention alpaca or ltißtre. It was always a favoured material from its silkiDess, durability, and uncrushableness. Now lam filled with admiration of some beautiful specimens of alpaca, in most captivating shades and patterns of stripes and checks, tho material of all others best adapted for the dusty summer foretold for this year. I could not tell which was prettier—the silver-grey with long pink lines, or the soft fawns with cross, bars of several colours, blending into a harmonious whole. For the useful dust-cloak alpaca is l largely employed and no doubt it will be equally popular for gowns. Among the loose bodices named the other 1 day, I believe I forgot the most masonline one, made exactly like a man’s tennis shirt. One is in pink flannel, with a cream stripe ; the collar is turned down and fastened with a stud, and fihiahed with a cream satin tie, the ends tucked under the collar ; the turned back cuffs fastened with links ; three studs in the front pleat. W. Clark’s Liliputian warehouse 13 particularly fascinating to young mothers. Tho windows are full of charming little costames of many desciiptions, and suited to all ages of tho little folks. Granny bonnets surmount pelisses, perky hats are placed on cunDing little sailor suits, and frocks are artfully draped with silk sashes ; all to conjure money from our purses, for we all like to Eee our darlings prettily dressed.

A writer in the Queen describes a new style of bodice called the Franfreluche. The material wns red and white shot zephyr, the skirt draped in front over a pleated white zephyr underskirt, and the front of the bodice was also white ; but the red fronts joined under the arms, and from the shoulder and throat were gathered into a point, so that they met in the centre just where the top of the corset would come, leaving all the rest to show white. This is quite a smart-looking style, and is very becoming to the figure. Pockets are to be worn of a square form outside the skirt, and made of the same material. They are put on diagonally so that that the opening is on the slant. Skirts being fuller in front now, dressmakers are able to place the pockets next the front seam.

If you are renovating half-worn dresses, it is well to remember that plain turned down collars of velvet or silk, with revers on bodice and sleeves, to match, are fashionable, easy to make and cool for summer wear. A pretty way to make a skirt is to pleat it finely halfway, down, allowing the lower part to form a flounce, it is finished at the back only with a .puffed drapery closely gathered at the top and mounted on the band. For young girls’ cotton frocks the skirt is full and plain, with a broad hem and and seven or eight tucks ; the only adornment a broad sash of the same, with embroidery on the ends. Children’s are generally made with a blouse bodice or a full fronted polonaise ; the first is excellent for everyday wear, but for best dress tho polonaise is preferable. Elise ,