Seasonable Work for August.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 858, 10 August 1888, Page 18

Seasonable Work for August.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

The planting of fruit trees may now be completed, though they may be successfully planted at a much later date. It is not wise to delay after this month, as a wet, cold, spell.might delay their getting hold till too late for them to make good progress during the season. Any root pruning which may be desirable should also be completed at once before growth begins. In addition to reasons given in a previous paper for root pruning, one other should be given. When young trees are planted, it is often on freshly trenched ground, and,if the ground was not made sufficiently firm beneath the bole of the tree there is sure to be a considerable sinkage, and this will result in the roots getting lower than is desirable. So, two or three years after planting, it will be well to carefully lift the trees. Cut away any roots that may have struck straight downwards, and spread the others out horizontally, so that when covered and trodden firmly, they will only be a few inches under the surface. Young trees of apples or pears that are to be trained to walls or espaliers should be trained horizontally. To do this, the centre stem should be trained perpendicularly, with the branches radiating lrom each side, about twelve inches apart. The young tree, at planting time, should for this purpose be what is known as a maiden, namely, one that has not been shortened back, and will there, fore have one clean, straight stem. This should be cut down to about twelve inches. When growth is made, three branches should be taken, one led up perpendicularly, the others, one on each side horizontally. These side branches should not hereafter be cut back, but about midsummer, if the leader has made good progress, its tops may be pinched out, and it will then throw other two side branches as well as continue the leader, to be shortened next winter. This will give two pairs of side branches in one season instead of one, if winter pruning only is resorted to. This will reach the top of an eight feet wall in four years instead of eight—a considerable difference. The side branches cannot usually ho got quite horizontal at first, but can be brought down by degrees. Other work in the truit quarters—pruning, manuring and cleaning—should all be complete before this, and has been sufficiently dealt with in former papers. If any grafting is to be done the end of the month is the time to do it, just as the sap is beginning to rise. The scions should be taken off and Dearly buried in the soil in a cold place to retard them, asthestock should be in advance of the scion as regards the flow of the sap. The tree to be operated on should not be headed down till the grafting is to be done, and if/the tree is an old one a few branches should be left to form a vent for the sap. The point to be aimed at in grafting is a perfect of the iuner bark on at least one side of both stock and scion. The points of union must be protected for a few weeks either by grafting-wax or wellkneaded clay mixed with fresh horse droppings* _ In the vinery everything should ba ready for a clean start ; no cobwebß, dust, dead leaves, or dirt of any kind, should be allowed to rest, and if vermin are about, paint and limewhito all the wood work. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. Recent cold; wet weather will delay operations somewhat. As it is only waste to sow seed while the ground is web and cloggy, digging even should not be done while the ground is very wet, or it will be a long time before it is got into a sweet condition. . So soon as good seed can bo got will bo the time to sow onions, carrots, parsnips, leek, red beet, spinach, radish, lettuce, turnip ; and if cabbage and cauliflower were not sown last month they should bo got in at once, both ‘Early Loudon’ and ‘ Veitche’s Autumn Giant ’ cauliflowers should be sown, when one will succeed the other, , Successional sowings of peas should be made. I consider from trial and observation that ‘ Veitche’s Perfection ’ is still the mo3t certain kind to grow in this district. * Stratagem ' grown side by side with ‘Veitche’s’ last year, produced about one-sixth the crop, and its additional beauty does not repay the loss in quantity. 4 Telephone,’ again, is too hif.h for most situations in Wellington. To grow peas-well the ground should ba deeply trenched and heavily manured ; they must have a good root run or they will not carry a heavy crop, especially as the season ad-

vances. I have found it a good plan, when freshly trenched ground cannot be had and it seldom can in this part of the world to dig a trench out as for celery, only a bit deeper; half till it with strong manure, fill back nearly but not quite all the soil; sow the peas thereon, and the soil left over will by-and-bye serve to earth up the rows, without bringing them over the level of the surrounding surface. The roots of the pea 3 will soon find the manure and show their appreciation of it. Rhubarb and sea-kale may still be planted, but must not be left longer. If the old beds have not been manured get it done before growth begins. Any sea-kale not yet covered will now need no forcing manure, as it is on the move naturally ; simply cover it with inverted boxes to blanch it. Asparagus may be planted a 3 soon as the crowns begin to move, which will be at the end of this or the beginning of the next month. They should be planted in shallow trenches wide enough to allow of the roots to be spread out in a circle round each crown, and at such a depth that when the soil is returned the crowns will not be more than two or three inches below the surface. The plants should not be nearer than twelve inches apart in the vows, with two feet between the rows, and if double that distance can be given so much the better. The hot-bed should now be ready for seedsowing. If cucumbers are to be grown the seed may be sown in boxes in rather light soil. As the seedlings appear, admit air to them gradually, and such light as they can bear. Avoid rapidly forcing, as good lasting plants cannot be got that way. When the seed leaves are fully developed, take them up carefully, and pot them singly in three inch pots in soil previously warmed. Water with tepid water, and when they have drained a few minutes return them to the bed, plunging the pots. When the roots reach the sides of the pots shift them into fire inch pots and treat as before. The hot-bed may be used for raising tomato, celery, and other seeds it may be desirable to grow, such as capsicums, chillies, &c. As soon as the seed of tomatoes and celery is well up, the boxes containing them should be removed to a warm greenhouse before they become drawn. If tomatoes are to be grown under glass, a sufficient nnmfcer of the young plants should be potted and treated as directed for cucumbers. Avoid sowing seeds too thickly, as they draw up and weaken, and often decay each other.