COMING FASHIONS.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 839, 30 March 1888, Page 4

COMING FASHIONS.

The near approach of winter is not so much indicated by the weather aa by the windows of drapery establishments, now full of new and elegant materials capable of ensuring one’s comfort even if the season be aa rigorous as that lately experienced in other countries. Happily, this is nut likely to be the case ; but all the same, precisely similar goods are to be seen as in snowy, foggy England. Furs are particularly noticeable, and, indeed, are likely perhaps to become an important item of a stylish winter toilette ; mantles, gowns, bonnets, hats, are alike trimmed with fur, and what 3 handsome trimming it makes ! Fancy a velvet dress with bands of fur of an appropriate shade. Can anything be more effective ? As yet 1 have not been the entire tour of the shops, but what I have seen I noted for general edification. Commencing with outdoor wear. In mantles it is difficult to say which is most fashionable—the long paletot reaching to the hem of the dress ; the dolman with its short back and lengthened ends ; or the jaunty jacket. At Thorndon House I saw an elegant variety of shapes and materials, and was particularly impressed by a paletot made of matelass£, a fabric very fashionable some yeais past, and found so durable that its revival was determined upon. Without trimming of any kind this wrap depends for effect solely upon its cat and handsome textnre.

Then there were lovely plush mantles trimmed with silver fox, or beaver. Black and brown velvet with sable, bear, and otter. Speaking generally, the long wraps are principally plain, while the short ones are much trimmed. Consequently the prioe of an elegant, plush paletot does hot exceed that of a visits. The jackets of this season are most fascinating vStements, all the plainness giving way to elaboration of braiding of various descriptions. Some models have the design in ordinary Russian braid ; others with two sorts of braid ; and again, silk cord is used in place of braid ; Brandebourga, too, are much worn. Lovers of fur will be charmed with the beautiful sets at the before mentioned es. tablishment. One consisted of pelerine with long ends, made in quite a new shape, and of lovely brown otter. Inside the fronts is cunningly inserted two pockets to serve the purpose N of a muff. Collarettes and cuffs of black skunk, beaver, &c., are sure to find admirers, as also the long round boas, which to my mind, however, are not to be compared to the flat ones. An imitation miniver

looked extremely natural with its white hairs. I forgot to mention ulsters, that most useful portion of a wardrobe. They are particularly graceful this season ; lightness as well as warmth has been studied in their make. For the most part they are fitted well into the back, some with sliog sleeves or rather long capes to form slings, others with hoods. One trimmed with velvet I admired much, and was extremely surprised at its low price. Imagine a good handsome ulster for 17s 6d. Who would be without one ?

Now you are dying to hear what the bonnets are like. W ell, I can tell you the millinery materials are just wonderful in their beauty and novelty ; the principal one is shot and moire plush, exquisite alike in tint and texture. Dark green shot with red, blue with gold bronze and pink. These sound startling, but in reality the combinations are most taking, since it is but in certain aspects that a glint of the more vivid color is caught. To match these plushes are Bhot and watered ribbons, plumes, and ornaments of wonderful invention. The shapes are still high and close-fitting, but there are styles to suit every taee. Hats are in any number of new shapes, and not a few popular old ones. On the one hand are small toques, turbans and Derbys, and on the other are immense halos of fur, felt, and velvet. The graceful Rembrandt hat with its wide brim, over which ostrich tips droop, is immensely becoming to young faces ; while the toijue, which was never more in favor than at present, is an economical headgear. It can be made to match the long paletot or redingote, and young girls and children always look well-dressed thus attired, though they may be wearing beneath the pardessers skirt plain nursery or school frocks.

I saw some handsome bonnets at Wilson and Richardson’s, some new Bhapes, very narrow and with high pointed crowns ; towering fronts of velvet and plush lined with shot silk. The trimmings, not so much bows as drapings. The principal c iorings are poppy red and bronze green, though tints absolutely indescribable are to be seen. Cock’s feathers are the most fashionable trimming, either the long curved ones from the tail or the stiff pens or quills from the wings. In spite of the protest of many women against the wearing of birds, milliners still use the lovely little creatures. The Empress of Brazil is one of the ladies who will not countenance them. Though Brazil is noted for the brilliant plumage of its birds, this womanly queen never allows their feathers to be used for her adornment; much as she admires the plumage she prefers to see it on the birds’ living bodies. A charming compromise between a hat and a bonnet is a toque of black velvet with a turned up brim, wider behind than in front, and with the crown made of a black scarf falling straight behind so as to form strings when brought to the front. Mrs Walker's millinery is extremely stylish ; bounets and hats bordered and trimmed with fur are novel, as also are the small close-fitting capotes of velvet and felt, braided on the high sloping crown, and turned back brim ending squarely at the sides. A charming hat is called the ‘Ad. miral,' an exact copy of the cooked hat from which it derives its name ; the high turned up sides are lined with velvet, and across the crown is placed a long ostrich feather in the graceful style I remember in my young days. Some of the most unique trimming is here to be seen in the shape of artificial fern fronds, so natural in coloring as almost to deceive a fern maniac. Those made of velvet are particularly effective.

Some gorgeous plnsh paletots are marvels of elegance and luxury, so exquisitely soft and light that one could forgive any woman for coveting the delightful wrap, but the majority of us can only look and long. Now for colors most likely to be popular this winter. Many decidedly new shades of old standing colors are appearing. The peculiar tints which were rather startling at first are now taking high rank in favor. The pale delicate shades of apple, willow, greengage, and chaitreuße ; any number of terracotta tints ; heliotrope in a variety of colors, distinctly not heliotrope ; brilliant reds, blues, and greens for limited use in flashes and gleams ; delicate greys and fawns; all are worn in millinery. What is worn in dress materiala I will leave for another time when I have ascertained facts.

Elise.