The Fashionable Trimmings of the Season.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 787, 1 April 1887, Page 4

The Fashionable Trimmings of the Season.

The fact that most of the new dresses are

made of two materials, has reduced the necessity for laborate trimmings ; but those that have be introduced are remarkably handsome, and in many cases originate quite new ideas.

Sometimes the one material used on a plainer stuff is applied as a garniture and nothing more.; and for this some costly beaded fabrics are prepared, such as a rich velvet brocade, thrown on a closely-woven woollon ground, which has a surface as smooth as satin. The brocade is outlined in beads, and it is rich and well wearing; width, 23in. It is applied as a waistcoat, cuffs, pockets, and robings on the skirt. A similar class of material is covered all over, Dot only with beads worked in, but with tiny pendant tassels of the finest cut beads. Another has a beaded arabesque pattern in stripes, so that it oan be cut and applied in bands. These are all made in colored as well as in jet beads.

Fringes and galons and appliqu63 of beaded passementerie are almost the only trimmings used. The fringes are made in beads and chenille. The chenile is not merely looped and in single lines, but is made in the form of points widening towards the top, or a succession of balls—indeed, in endless varieties, with intertwisted headings like net work. Others of a more costly kinds, chiefly used for mantles, have above the pendant loops or ball fringes an admixture of twisted cord with a large chenille leaf or fruit, apparently laid on. Messrs Hill, in Oxford Street, are selling a Dew fringe of chenille intermixed with silk, with a netted heading, having a ball drop in chenille at the point. Nearly all the gimp tassels and trimmings are divisible ; that is, they are formed of leaves or drops, which can be used separately, and they are very fashionable so used. Jet drops and tassels sewn separately amid lace or fringe are much worn, and these take the form of balls, seaweed, mulberries, etc. A useful heading is made of black chenille loops and crystalised crimped silk—such as hitherto has only been used for mourning. White crystal drops are being employed onee more on evening dresses, and appliquds of ordinary colored satin beads, chenille, crystal, and pearl fringes, also galons mixed with crystal. Irridescent beads play an important part. A beautiful garniture has large leaves in gold beads, thrown on a chenille and pearl ground work. On mantles, single drops of a tremendous size are employed, but happily the huge, silk-covered balls, or succession of balls, are cord, so that their weight is not gre*t. They are headed by large leaves in chenille and beads. Ball fringes in wool, and even fur (a very decided novely), are worn ; fur tails are aiso used.

The fashionable furs are natural undyed ones, such as mink, sable, beaver, grey squirrel, grey and white Persian lamb, marten tail, and, more than all, ABtrachan, real and imitation. The latter is very durable, and is to be bad in both grey and black. Astrakhan is not costly, and is being worn on cloth dresses, on short jackets, and for shoulder capes. * Plain rows of stitching are a favorite trimming on cloth dresses or braidings. They are now selling an admirable trimming, at about 3s 6d a yard, of Russian braid in good designs, which when sewn on the dress look as if actually braided; several cords and braidings for placing across the front of the dress are also to be had.

Marabout feather trimming continues in - favor for dresses and mantles, and . has been.' so improved in the making that it will not’ rub off the foundation and will stand rain. It is now made up on a very wide foundation of muslin, marked out in inches, and can be torn down to any width required, and is to be had in all colors. Ostrich feather and cock feather trimming are worn, but not so much.

Braids of various widths are also used, the newest being a basket-plait interblended with gold. A very magnifleent trimming is scollopped at both edges, and has a velvet foundation, on which is thrown a tambour embroidery in cashmerienne colors, outlined in gold; it is worn on opera cloaks, tea gowns, etc. —Queen.