RATIONAL DRESS.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 606, 15 September 1883, Page 3

RATIONAL DRESS.

No. 2 Whether the style of costume advocated by the Rational Dress Society be approved or not, it is, at least, something to have drawn attention to the faults of modern dress, looked at from a hygienic point of view. If women are led to think of the evils of faulty clothing, of the health endangered, and fatigue enhanced by its use, the remedy will soon be applied. But there i 3 that bugbear “custom' 5 to be fought. As Cowper says:— To follow foolish precedents, and wink With both our eyes, is easier than to think. We are so fearful of appearing different to other women, so apprehensive of ridicule, that we are content to follow where fashion leads, regardless of consequences. Strangely enough, that same Dame Fashion never leans towards moderation, or the exercise of' reason, that faculty must be laid aside by her votaries, while they go from one extreme to another, equally irrational ; and no one person thinks that she is individually responsible ; but let her pursue an independent line of conduct, think out her own ideas, or adopt those which she deems most feasible ; very quickly she : is made to feel that she has stepped out of the beaten track, and will have obstacles and social dangers to overcome, which were expected in these days of boasted freedom ; consequently few are found willing to run the ri-k, however desirous they may be of joining the ranks of the reformer. One way there is out of the difficulty-, namely, to form here in New Zealand a Reform Association of our own, and those who believe that the aims of such a society are likely to benefit the community should openly join it, even if they do not desire or intend to be among the first to actually change their dress. Their influence would act beneficially upon pmblic opinion, and, indeed, they would be in all probability much surprised to find how many there are ready to go with them, when assured that they have not to go alone. I would strongly urge this point upon leaders of society, and even venture to impress upon such the obligation they are under of not allowing a question of so much importance to women in general to fall through for want of due consideration and support. It is a mistake to suppose that the London Rational Dress Society have any uniform or particular dress ; they advocate a general principle which may bs followed out to suit individual tastes and requirements. Perhaps it would be advisable to mention in detail the approved method of dressing the female form. Commencing with the first of the series of underclothing, whPh should be both in summer and winter, a woollen vest, or, if preferred, a combination of vest and drawers—flannel for winter, something lighter, such as merino, for summer. Over this, calico combinations, which are most comfortable garments, as most people who have tried them will allow, though I have heard a singular objection raised against them—that of indecency—and on that score a lady actually forbade their use to her daughters ; but I think you will agree with me that the objection was not a valid one. What is recommended instead of stays, is a sleeveless bodice, of some stout material, such as jean, c-mtille, or even stout calico,. fitting pretty closely round the bust. It is claimed that this is found _ quite sufficient support even for stout figures. In this I differ ; for it is well known that the muscles of matrons, as years advance, lose their pristine elasticity and become relaxed, needing support. Without corsets, unless the figure is youthful it too often assumes a shapeless appearance —“ like a sack of flour tied in the middle s ' —an old simile, but a true one. Even girls, if they have not exceptionally good figures, can scarcely afford to do

without corsets. But then there are stay 8 and stays. * The use of stiffly boned, unyielding, and, above all tightly-laced corsets should l erigidly condemned as injurious to the last degree. Fortunately, this is not tho sole type of corset. Any number arc to be met with possessing the necessary qualities for comfort as well as elegance, while new improvements are being constantly made. I would mention one in particular, made with a wide piece of elastic webbing under the arms in lieu of bones, which, while it keeps the bust in place, gives perfect freedom of movement. A. very good plan is to purchase a really well-fitting corset, and then remove most of the whalebones, just leaving the two long ones down the back. An American - plan is to make a bodice of very firm material, and stitch on it cases for whalebones, which are then removable when the stays are washed. For young girls this plan is strongly recommended. The next article of clothing is the petticoats, or petticoats. Most women wear one of flannel, at any rate in winter, and it is suggested that were this made as drawers instead of skirt, the warmth would be considerably increased and it would in no way interfere with the divided petticoat that comes next. This is made much like an ordinary petticoat from the waist to the knee, except that the front, instead of having a plain breadth gored at the sides, has a gored seam directly in the front. At the knee the petticoat is joined by a square gusset to give more room, and then a kilting of suitable length for the wearer is joined on, forming two legs. Now whether the reform dress is worn in its entirety or not, I would warmly urge my readers to try the above way of making a petticoat. Just try the experiment, wearing your usual dress over it. I am sure you will find it an improvement on the old plan. When extra warmth is desired it can be lined, either all throughout, or merely the legs, so that no second petticoat is needed. For summer wear, material should b e now clinging, such as alpaca. Once worn, the adoption of the invisible dual garment will become general, as it does not follow that one must, perforce, with it adopt the shortened upper. dress. Worn like any other petticoit, concealed under the robe, its advantages are several. It can bo worn shorter than the ordinary petticoat, with more decency and comfort, and consequently will not be so liable to get dirty, and as we often see skirts, with a fringe of mud hanging round, a perfect eyesore to neat, orderly persons, and disagreeable, in the extreme to the wearer. Having thus reviewed our rational underclothing, and showu hotv few articles are really necessary to ensure the requisites of comfort, ease, lightness, and the even distribution of warmth, I must add a word or two more regarding the overdress. For walking I must cordially advocate having it somewhat shorter than the divided skirt, say two, or perhaps, three inches, assuring my readers that the innovation is absolutely inconspicuous. I speak from experience as I have walked through the town without attracting the slightest attention, besides proving for myself the greater freedom and convenience of the costume, which has still another advantage—it offers far less resistance to the wind than does our usual dress, and thus renders walking a fuller enjoyment, and a more healthful exercise, from the absence of undue fatigue, while we can congratulate ourselves on our emancipation from the many petty annoyances which assail us very hour of the day, when clad in trailing, cumbersome, unhygienic attire. Elise.