TO WANGANUI AND BACK.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 133, 10 January 1874, Page 5

TO WANGANUI AND BACK.

(BY OUR SPECIAL BEPOETEB.) The excursion to Wanganui by the p.s. Paterson will long be remembered by a great many as one of the very pleasantest upon which they ever went in search of enjoyment; and it is highly probable that it will be the precursor of a long series of annual excursions to the same place. There have been trips to Wanganui before this, but there never was such an interchange of courtesy, such a hearty welcome, such a hand-shaking between the two towns, as it were, such a keen struggle on land and water, and such unbounded hospitality after the contest was over. Wanganui played the bountiful host in a way that waß as creditable to itself as it was surprising to the Wellington visitors. But as it will be as well to narrate the incidents of the trip in their order of sequence, the start from the wharf should be noticed first. The Queen’s wharf on Manday evening last was a scene of commotion. The Paterson s crowded deck, the puffing of steam, and the shrieking of the whißtle showed that everything was ready for a start, but the flitting hither and thither of men in regatta caps showed that there were still some behind time. Shortly after six, however —which was the advertised hour for starting the last whistle was blown, there was a sudden rush of hand-shakings, a waving of farewell salutes, the plank was hauled in, the steamer glided from the wharf, quietly cleaving in two the crowd which thronged her deck and the end of the wharf, and we were off. A glance at the hurricane deck of the steamer left no doubt that our destination was to be the scene of some aquatic contest. Outriggers, triggers, and sculling boats, covered and uncovered, in cases and in calico, were stowed all over the deck, there being no fewer than ten boats in all more than ever were sent from Wellington to any regatta before. Though the crowd seemed to be very large, the accommodation of the Paterson is so capacious and so ingeniously arranged that the majority of the excursionists were able to appropriate some corner of the cabin in which to dispose of themselves for the night. Many, however, whose stomachs object to being “ rocked in the cradle of the deep,” stuck to the deck, both #n the trip up and down. There was a large number of ladies on board, and by rijjht of their sex the beet accommodation which the steamer afforded was given up to them. The dear creatures, strange to say, evinced an unusual shyness. With the exception of three or four who showed themselves tolerable sailors, all the ladies kept themselves seeltded from observation until they stepped upon the Wanganui wharf, radiant in looks and holiilay attire. A good view of the scenery of \he coast about the heads was obtained, for darkness did not begin to full until the Teravuti tide-rip was reached, and it was passed without any of the unpleasant pitching and tossing so frequently experienced there. A sumptuous tea was laid out for the passengers, and as the weather was fine and the viands tempting, the waiters realised the difference between an excursion trip and an ordinary voyage. Table after table was laid, and still hungry passengers kept tumbling down below in search of creature comforts, until there was some reason to think that the trip was going to be one continuous meal. Up to Terawiti the progress of the steamer bad been very rapid, and an early hour was fixed for our arrival at Wanganui next morning. A slight change in the course, however, became necessary, and the effects of an unfavorable wind and tide soon began to be felt in the slackened speed; still all were so confident of an early arrival that in the “ sweep” which was got up, the outside limit of time fixed did not reach nine o’clock. Darkness having obscured the coast line, and pipes and cigars having been discussed on deck to satiety, bunks were sought below, and “ nightcaps” at the bar. The tables had been already occupied by card players. ' About the orthodox hour for retiring, the tables were once more cleared by the stewards, and a relish of devilled “ bloaters” ana roast potatoes served up. A pleasant clash of wit ensued between those who enjoyed the relish and the occupants of the bunks, who alleged that the odor of the smoked fish was too much for their olfactories. Midnight came, and there was still a lot of choice spirits who either disdained to coil themselves away in any corner or were acting upon the advice of that sagacious Highlander who, when his . friend lamented the inadequacy of his sleeping accommodation to the requirements of liis guests, told him not to be at all distressed, because if he would only provide a sufficiency of “ whusky,” his guests would find beds for themselves. Still the results were not alike in both cases. The gay and festive youths who had sonls above beds for that night, did very well until the call of “ Stewavd!” failed to bring forth “ spirits” from the vasty depths of the bar, when they suddenly found themselves stranded upon the shore of wakefulness. Then followed a night of noises hideous in discord and variety. Sleep for any was out of the question. Those who could not sleep were determined no one else should, and daylight broke with few having obtained more than an hour or two of sleep, the night having been enlivened by peals of laughter, yelis, snatches of songs, uproarious choruses, unearthly attempts at music, conspicuous amongst which were the melancholy tootlings of an infatuated flutist, the whole of this sleep-defying symphony being extemporised for the delectation of those who had the hardihood to seek repose below. All this time the Paterson had been making rapid headway on her voyage, and with as little motion as if lying at her berth alongside the wharf. All were congratulating themselves upon the good qualities of the boat, and looking forward to an early landing in the morning, ana a day’s enjoyment afterwards. But alas for the calculations of these who “ go down to the sea in ships !” In

this instance, as in many others, disappointment ensued. The night was hazy and showery, though the morning broke tolerably fine. From four o’clock nearly everyone was on the look out for either land or coffee. At a very early hour their longings for a cup of Moeha were gratified by the stewards, who were soon up and doing, preparing for what proved for them a busy day, though a weary and listless one for nearly all else ; but land for a long time was not visible ; and when the ea<*er eyes of those who had been scanning the horizon did discern the coast line, it was found to be not the usaal landfall. There was the line of hills, hut the well-known “ seven hummocks” were not to be seen. Whether it waß through hazy weather, tidal causes, or erratic compasses, that we overshot the mouth of the river, it is difficult to say, and the question may be left to those more conversant with such things than your correspondent. It was soon evident, however, that the “ turn of the tide” had been missed, and there was no help for it hut to let the steamer have a game at pitch and toss outside the bar until the tide served. This was the only dash of discomfort that marred the enjoyment of what was otherwise an exceptionaily pleasant trip ; but it was not in human nature to display equanimity upon such an occurrence. After a little looking and longing to be on the shore which lay so close to us, solace was sought in other directions. Fishing lines were got out, and the cabin library ransacked for reading matter. After all, the most serious pang to be borne was the sight of the Manawatuin the distance coming bowling along under sail and steam with a sea-sick motion and crowded deck. She was soon alongside, and after hailing us with a derisive cheer dropped her mudhook until the signalman would notify that the bar might be taken. After a short stay the wished-for black balls went tip for both vessels, the Paterson going in a little after the Manawatu. The wharf was crowded to receive the excursionists, who were saluted by a hearty cheer of welcome as they came alongside. A general stampede in search of lodgings followed, and although W'hngatiui is remarkably well provided as to quantity and quality of its hotel accommodation, it was not until nightfall that everyone had found a resting place, and a largo proportion were obliged to put up with Bhakedowns, every bedroom in the cit.y having to do double and in some cases treble duty. Atkinson’s and Chavannes’ were the chief rendezvous for Wellingtonians, the former, however, owing to the popularity of its late proprietress, being the “ house of call” for the week; and many who could not find sleeping room there went there for their meals. In consequence of the delay outside, the cricket match had to be put off until Wednesday morning, which had been fixed for the regatta, and an effort was made to still further postpone it. but unsuccessfully, as some of the cricketers came from tne country and were anxious to get back in time for the festivities at Masterton, where no fewer than 700 people attended a picnic. The only amusement that night was A BABB AX THE MASONIC HABB, and as the Wellingtonians were made welcome, a large attendance and a merry evening followed, any lack of style in the get-up of the entertainment being more than counterbalanced by the zest with which all enjoyed themselves. On Wednesday the town was divided between the attractions of regatta and cricket, and the attendance at each was so limited as to give one the idea that the bulk of the inhabitants did not feel much interested one way or the other. It had been intended to adjourn the match to the middle of the day, in order to give everyone an opportunity of witnessing the four-oar race, the chief event of the regatta, but the game looked like being finished so soon that it was played out without stoppage. The result of the CRICKET MATCH

you have already had by telegraph, and there is little now to be said except that Wellington can once more attribute its defeat to the want of change of bowlers. Our hatting was fair; the fielding was very good, that of C'rowLher’s being espcially commendable, but the bowling was weak, and Wbnganui won the match with three wickets to fall, chiefly through the Wellington team being unprovided with a change of bowlers. THE BEGATTA might almost be dismissed with like brevity, were it not that there are two or three things which require a few words more than can be given in any ordinary telegram, though that furnished by the Anglo-Australian was both copious and correct. Besides, the reports in the local papers were not nearly so full as those which Wellington peoplehavebeen accustomed to find in the Independent, and consequently did not give anything like satisfaction. Of the two sailing races nothing need be said. They were more conspicuous on the programme than on the river. The rowing was prefaced with a bungle. The pair-oar race, which came first, was open to all comers and any boats. The prize was £ls and the course, according to card and advertisement, from moorings off Chadwick’s Wharf, round a boat moored off Putiki, and back to the Bridge. Unfortunately the boat was a myth. There was none visible off Putiki, except a snag punt about three-quarters of a mile below the proper turning point—a leaning log called the “Old Man Snag”—and the red flag which had been fastened to the snag for the guidance of the rowers having been blown off, the crews were puzzled what to do. Six boats came to the scratch, three beiDg from Wellington. As the wind was blowing up the river (which appears to he often the case, owing to the river channel forming a funnel which attracts the wind much in the same way as Cook’s Strait), the water was fully as rough as the water of our own harbour on a breezy day. Everyone saw that the Homan Fall, being an outrigger,

could scarcely manage to go the course without swamping. Four of the biats went no farther than the Old Man snag, but the Roman Fall kept on for the only boat in view, being followed by its comrade, the Alexandra Limp, which kept by in case of accident. On the way down the Fall filled, and as she was a long distance ahead the crew pulled ashore, emptied her, and started again. They succeeded in rounding the punt, though the river was feather white, and afrer having to go ashore once more to empty, they got back some time after the other boats, but were loudly cheered for their pluck in facing such a sea. The dispute which resulted was settled by the committee deciding that the race should be rowed over again next morning. The next race was a pair oar race for boys under sixteen. "Wellington certainly sent a spleudid specimen of youthful manhood at sixteen. The gamins of Wanganui were so taken aback at their manly proportions, that they saluted the two representatives of the youth of Wellington with ironical cries such as “ Oh, what infants !” “ Pretty sixteens you are,” and such other taunts as youth resort to. The two lads soon settled their tormentors by charging in amongst them and scattering them in all directions. The race was pulled with spirit, but was won easily by the Wellington boat, though it was considerably the heaviest, the two boys displaying considerable skill a 9 well as power. Nor was there so much difference in size between them and some of the Wanganui lads as might be supposed. A protest was subsequently lodged againßt young Atchison and Cooper, on the ground that they were more than sixteen years of age, and nothing less than baptismal certificates will settle the matter.

the eotje-oab eace was the great event of the day. On this the hopes of Wanganui had long been centered ; for it they had got together a picked crew, and built a boat specially ; and to those who know what can be done by the Wellington men and boats, it is needless to say that crew and boat were worthy of each other, and a credit to any community. Wanganui men were not much impressed by the appearance of our boats, but when those amongst the Wellington men best capable of judging a boat clapped eyes upon the Elvira, built by Mr Millar, of Wanganui, they looked grave, knowing what a formidable antagonist she would prove. Their fears were verified by the result. The race was from Mr Walker’s place, at Aromoho, to the Borough Wharf, a distance of about three miles ; the prize was £2O. Four boats came to the scratch—Wellington being represented by the Eclipse and Queen Mab ; Wanganui by the Elvira and Fernleaf. Inside place was drawn by the Efrira, which was a great advantage ; the Mab and Eclipse were next, and the Fernleaf outside. She need not be taken into account, having been entered with some vague idea that they would be able to assist their comrades by cutting out the running. The hope, if ever held, was delusive. The other three boats shot away at the start, leaving-the Fernleaf behind at every stroke. The wind was blowing up the river, and the water in the centre was rough. For the first hundred yards the trio kept abreast, but as both the Wellington boats lopped two or three seas, such unexpected ballast deadened their way and entailed an amount of exertion on the crew which had not been calculated upon ; but the Queen Mab’s men settled down to their work with the determination to do or die. For a mile they clung to the Elvira with a doggedness that must have lessened their subsequent efforts ; but after that they dropped astern inch by inch and then foot by foot. The Eclipse was close behind, sweeping along at a good pace, losing no more than they had lost in the first half-mile. The bank of the river was a scene of wild disorder and excitement. Hundreds of horsemen galloped madly along the edge, screaming themselves hoarse in shouting encouragement to their friends who were desperately struggling in the river below; while the road alongside was crowded with vehicles di'iven at top speed ; the occupants hung out of the windows or clung to the top and vied with the horsemen in their frantic cheering whenever they caught sight of the boats "in the long reaches of the river. The Queen Mabs kept pulling like Trojans, though steadily losing grouud. The stroke-oar bent like a half-moon every dip, and as yet none of the crew exhibited the slightest trace of diminished vigor. The want of a preliminary pull on the river was then seen in the wild steering of both our boats. About half-way, or opposite Mr Nixon’s residence, the Eclipse crew seemed suddenly to gather fresh energy —their stroke became longer, and the water was cut quicker at the recovery. Their increased speed soon lessened the gap between them and the Queen Mab, and inspired their friends with the hope that they would still collar the Elvira, whose stroke lacked that finish displayed by .the Wellington men. The cheering and exhorting cries now became a deafening roar. On came the black caps, gaining on the foremost boat hand over fist. The Queen Mab was caught, and in a few strokes passed and soon left behind a number of lengths. A desperate struggle was now kept up to catch the Elvira ; but although she was steadily gained upon, the effort came too late, and she won by eight or nine lengths. The Queen Mab was not able to go the whole distance, having swamped with the weight of water she had taken in. The Eclipse was about half-full, the Elvira as dry as a bone. Loud were the cheers and rejoicing for Wanganui. It was a supreme triumph, and "Wellington was abashed for a time. THE SCUEEEBS’ BACE which followed was entirely between Wellington men—Woods, Griffiths, and Turnbull. Woods was the favorite, and led from the first, though he could not shake off Griffiths until a few hundred yards from home ; and up till that time Turnbull kept his bow close up to Griffiths’ stem. At the finish there

was only a couple of lengths between each boat. the point-oabed inbigged back was the next event, and the result proved a complete surprise to the Wanganui men, who laughed at the idea of the Faugh-a-ballagli being entered, as she is an eight-year-old boat, is as leaky as a cullender, having been nearly doubled up in being taken on board the Paterson, besides being soddened almost to rottenness. But a powerful crew was put into her, Wellington contributing Woods and Moore, and Picton giving Smith and Pickering, the former of whom pulled stroke. From the first to the last the coxswain was kept constantly bailing, but she took the lead and kept it throughout, winning easily. Daring the last mile that a fair view could be had of the boat, the stroke was 4*2 to the minute. The next race, THE VOBUNTEEB PAIE-OAB, was another triumph, being a dead gift to Walden and Webb, who won as they liked with a boat belonging to the Union Club. This concluded that day’s racing. Exhaustive as the programme of Wednesday was between cricket and rowing, there were other little enjoyments to go through that were quite as trying in their way. Wanganui had laid itself out to “go the entire animal” in the way of hospitality, and in the state of elation which their triumphs on land and water put them into, they were determined not to be baulked of their intentions. Members of the Regatta Committee accordingly perspired in their endeavors to hunt up the Wellington boating men and cricketers in order to give them free tickets to the horticultural show and to the banquet to bo given that night. Nor were they very particular as to whether the presentee was a wielder of the willow or oar. It seemed to be enough to be a Wellington visitor to obtain the entree to all the good things that were going. Among such a crowd as Wellington bad poured out, it was not a difficult matter to fill a banquet table or crowd a horticultural show, and the result in each case was what is commonly known as “ a great success.”

THE HOBTICUBTUBAB SHOW was not calculated to aetonish Wellington people in the way of flowers or rare plants. Indeed the display was so weak in that direction as to lead to the idea that the floriculture of the place was not fairly represented. It should be remembered, however, that the show was an extra one, and was probably got up principally on account of the large number of visitors and to add to the attractions of the regatta day. The pet plants and cut blooms were very good of their kind, but one expected greater variety with such a glorious climate and fine soil. The show was held in the Odd Fellows’ Hall, a room very like that of our own but on a smaller scale, and a visit to it during the day was an agreeable treat. It was different at night. The weather was intensely hot, and the crowded state of the hall made the place as hot as a Maori sweating oven. The only advantage was that the oppressive atmosphere prevented a very long stay, and one batch of visitors rapidly made way for another. The committee were fortunate in obtaining the services of Messrs Cooper and Wilkinson, of Wellington, both gentlemen of considerable knowledge and experience in gardening ; and as they were strangers to all the exhibitors their assistance was considered to have a special value and their opinions to be thoroughly impartial. Whatever deficiency was noticeable in the flower department was amply made up for in the display of fruit and vegetables, which formed a splendid commentary upon the soil and climate. The strawberries were as large and fine a sample as is ever seen, and with as much uniformity in size as is usually seen in tree fruit. The cherries were not to be excelled. They were almost black in color, large, and luscious-looking, and literally might be made “ two bites” of. The currants were also above the average quality, but the gooseberries, though very large, were not equal to what may be seen sometimes where the heat of summer is not s 6 great. Good even as the variety of fruit undoubtedly was, it no more represented the gardens of Wanganui than the floral exhibits, for your correspondent had the pleasure of eating ripe pears in Mr Williamson's garden a day or two after, though that fruit was not to be seen at the exhibition. But it was in the vegetables that the show was strong. The variety of kitchen garden produce was not great, but what there was could not be surpassed anywhere, and showed what might be done with the soil about Wanganui. On the whole the show formed a very attractive object for visitors and the borough folk alike, and especially to the fair sex ; and it was kept open till a late hour on Wednesday night. After labor comes refreshment. The fatigues of boating and cricket having been gone through and the horticultural show “ done,” the next thing to attend was THE BANQUET. This was an eventful affair, and narrowly missed being a complete failure. The members of the committee upon whose shoulders fell the duty of seeing that the details were properly carried out were nearly driven to distraction by the dilemma in which they were placed by their cooks. One could not but feel for them under the distressing circumstances. The old adage about cooks was strikingly illustrated in the fate of this dinner, for they seemed to he possessed with some evil spirit. But good or evil, it was “ spirits” of some kind that disarranged everything. Our tickets informed us that dinner would be ready at the Masonic Hall at eight o’clock. The guests were punctual, but the cooks were drunk, and dinner there was none to be seen. There was the ticket-taker at his post, but the room was empty and the tables not laid. The appearance of things as the guests put their heads in at the door was absurdly comical. Two immense tables were laid up and down the room, bnt there was scarcely any vestige

of the excellent dinner -which was disposed of a couple of hours afterwards. A few plates and glasses, a stray joint or two, a heap of bouquets in one corner, a pile of crockery, in another, a solitary and sorrowful-looking waiter moving about as if overcome with the deplorable mess into which things had fallen, was all that met the eye. No sooner had one lot of hungry and wood-be diners re* traced their steps, than another came, and another, only to bolt off with shouts of laughter. Some sort of announcement was then made that dinner would be ready at 9 o’clock. Even at that hour things were only advanced a stage, and numbers went away with no intention of returning, notwithstanding the earnest entreaties of some of the Committee to wait a little longer.. Many of the more considerate of the visitors who could make allowance for the eccentricities of such a festive time, gave another half-hour’s grace ; but as a few of the guests who had apparently been out in the sun, began indulging in an unseemly hilarity, nearly everyone left for good. At last, when everything had been put in apple-pie order, the Committee were obliged to beat up for somebody to eat the dinner. Luckily they hadn’t far to go, and with the exercise of a little persuasion the disappointed guests returned to the Hall, and dinner was sab down to, Major Nixon, the President of the Cricket Club, occupying the chair. Mr J. P. Watt, as Vice-Commo-dore of the regatta, took the chair in the absence of Captain Lowo, the Commodore. The spread was got up with a good deal of taste, and the supply of creature comforts was on the most liberal scale. The usual loyal and patriotic toasts having been honored, the chairman proposed “ The Wellington Cricketers.” After referring to the friendly contest of that day, and the pleasure felt by Wanganui people at the visit of their Wellington friends, the chairman said he hoped that so pleasant an event would be of annual occurrence. Mr. Worry, who responded, complimented the Wanganui cricketers upon their capital play. He made a slight reference to the misunderstanding which once existed between the cricketing men of Wellington and Wanganui, by saying that whatever little difference of opinion there might have been between them once had long been forgotten. He concluded by proposing the health of the Wanganui team. Mr Betts responded. The chairman then proposed the health of the Wellington boating men in a few pleasant and happy remarks. Mr Logan, who responded, said he could not help referring to the markedly cordial treatment his fellow-townsmen had received, and he trusted that when it came to the turn of Wellington to play the host she would do so aB creditably as Wanganui had done. He, of course, could not but feel some slight pang of regret that Wellington stood second in the great race of the day, but he felt bound to admit her representatives were beaten well and fairly; and Wanganui had every reason to be proud of the victory. He only hoped that when Wanganui went to Wellington regatta she would meet with an equally good drubbing. It was with great pleasure that he hailed the pluck shown by Wanganui in getting up so good a regatta, and he hoped that the performances of'that day would give a fillip to boating that would last. He could assure them that the prizes were no object to Wellington men, who would have come up as readily had they been only £l. He could confidently say, and he spoke with some knowledge, that their river was not equalled by any other in New Zealand for aquatic contests. He had no manner of doubt that Wanganui might, if she put her shoulders to the wheel, turn out a crew that would wrest the laurels from Canterbury ; and he hoped they would send a boat to Canterbury to represent the province. Mr J. P. Watt responded to the toast of the Wanganui boating men. The toast of “ The Ladies” was responded to by Mr Ollivier, with humorous felicity. Mr Jordan responded on behalf of the umpires and seorets, when their health was drunk. In proposing the health of the Wanganui boating men, Mr Logan pointed out a little coincidence in the fact that Wellington had been that day represented by two elevens —having brought up eleven boats to contest at the regatta, as well as eleven cricketers. Toasts and speeches gave way to singing, Wellington coming well to the fore in contributing to the enjoyment from that source, and an exceedingly enjoyable evening was brought to a finish about midnight, with the usual complimentary vote to the chairman. The guests then wended their way homewards, or joined the bands of noisy revellers who were parading the town, SEEING THE OLD TEAR OLTT AND THE NEW TEAR IN, and it was not until the small hours that order reigned at Wanganui and sleep became possible- It must be said, however, for. the credit of the little town, that the eccentricities of the noisy heralds of 1874 were of a very hai-mless kind. To return to boating. Wellington men didn’t feel comfortable after their beating in the four-oar l-aee. They were defeated where they thought they were strongest, yet they were loath to admit that the Wanganui men had either a better boat or superior men, and they lost no opportunity of stating as much. Wanganui, on the other hand, was confident that the Elvira was the best boat that was entered, and that its crew were quite equal to any Wellington had sent up. Of course the natural outeome of this was a challenge, which was the staple of conversation that evening, and before that night was concluded it. was decided that Wanganui and Wellington should get up A HATCH EOE £SO. The arrangement was that each side could pick from among its men their best crew and boat to be named in the morning when the balance of the £25 aside was to be put down. Both sides were so eager for the contest that

double the amount pulled for would have been subscribed without difficulty. The morning broke favorably, and all the preliminaries were soon and satisfactorily arranged. The course was between Aramoho and the Borough Wharf and the time half-past one, the bungled pair-oar race having to come off at ten o’clock. In the meantime the knowing ones occupied themselves in making up ..their books, very many of which balanced very badly in the afternoon. The excitement became intense as the hour approached, and in many instances the betting got bolder, Wanganui men generally giving odds according to the pitch of their enthusiasm. All sorts of odds were taken from 5 to 1 to 5 to 4, and very few Wellington men who betted at all refused the good offers made them. The result was that a goodly number returned to Wellington with more money in their pockets than they took away with them, although they did their best to get rid of it during their stay. The Wanganui men of course selected tthe Elvira, though a change was made in the former crew. Claud Smith was made stroke, the others being Millar, Brown, and Pickering, young Parsons acting as cox. The boat selected to represent Wellington was the Eclipse, the second boat on the previous day, and the property of the Union Club. Her crew was also changed. Cornish was made stroke and Moore and Woods put in, Joseph Ames being the only one of the old crew that was retained. A diminutive lad named Cook was cox. Not a hoof or vehicle was obtainable for love or money that morning, and all the carrying capacity of the place was ranged in front of Mr Walker’s hotel at Aramoho at half-past one. Captain Low officiated as starter. Wellington was more fortunate than in the previous race by drawing inside place. There was a good start, and the boats jumped away as smoothly as if there was nothing at stake, though it was easy to see that both crews were doing their level best to take the lead. The Eclipse men seemed to be under the impression that there was an advantage in hugging the bank, for they paralleled all the sinuosities of the river as if their lives depended upon it. This enabled the Elvira men to gain a yard or two occasionally by keeping a straight course. The river was pretty smooth, though a quarter of an hour before there was sufficient ripple to make the chance for Wellington very doubtful. The signal for starting set in motion the immense cavalcade which lined the banks, and the cloud of dust which rose behind informed the expectant ones in Wanganui that the struggle had commenced. Side by side the two boats rowed, the Eclipse gaining a foot or two, then losing it, gaining it again only to lose it in the next°few strobes. The people on the bank oscillated between the two boats. Both crews were palling in fine form and with splendid precision, and it was utterly impossible to say which would win. Of the two the Eclipse pulled the cleaner and steadier stroke, but there was an unmistakeable vigor about the Elvira men that prevented anyone giving odds against them. On they swept together for two miles without an oar’s length between them, every foot gained or lost being followed by volleys of cheers and counter cries that were sorely trying to the bronchial tubes. Dozens were hoarse thatnight after their efforts, and not a few had failed to regain their voices before they reached home. From Aramoho to the hospital there was ore continuous and deafening roar. At the end of the willows, when the crowds congregated on the wharves and were able to catch a good view of the boats, Wellington was but half a length ov so ahead, and as the current swept the boat within oar’s length of the bank everyone thought the ground would be taken and the race lost. A quick pull at the tiller lines and her bow shot off into the stream. As if elated by their good luck the crew redoubled their efforts, and put a couple of lengths between them and the Elvira. The other crew gathered themselves together for another tussle, but though they were unable to alter the position they lost no more ground to the finish and Wellington won, by a couple of lengths, one of the besl; contested races that could possibly be rowed. The distance was over three miles, and it was done in about 18 minutes as nearly as could be computed ; and although the current was greatly in favor of the rowers the curvings of the course considerably lessened any advantage derived from that cause. The Elvira’s crew looked rather cbopfallen when they came ashore, though they had no occasion to be ashamed of their defeat. They were beaten, and that was all, and if the appearance of men be anything to go by they could have pulled the same race n ’er without getting out of their boat, which is more than can be said of all of the Eclipse crew, some of whom looked to he completely “ baked.” Still they were equal to all that was required of them, and their friends and backers greeted them on landing with an enthusiasm that must have been refreshing to them after their hard struggle. It was thought at first that not more than £IOO had changed hands, but it was ascertained subsequently that double that sum would more nearly represent the amount of the betting. Some hundreds who went DP THE EIVER in the morning on board the Manawatu and Tongariro, and who knew nothing of the race till nightfall, did a brisk business in bets and sweeps. The Manawatu 6teamed up the river about fifteen miles, but as she stuck upon a bank she had to wait for the tide, and did not get back until nine o’clock that night. She was crowded with excursionists, and all seemed pleased with the trip and the scenery of the river. In the morning about ten the PAIR-OAE RACE was rowed, but ns the weather was fine, Woods and Moore, in the RomanEall, won as they liked. Te Kooti was a good second until about three lengths from the finish, when an enormous wave was shipped, literally making matchwood of the boat, which was built of

quarter-inch cedar. The crew had to swim ashore. As the boat was the private property of Mr Logan, who had paid £2B for her only a short time ago, a good deal of sympathy was expressed for him. It is to be hoped that the club for which he has done so much will do something graceful towards him in this case. As a good deal of surprise has been felt in Wellington regarding the rough water in the Wanganui river, it may not be uninteresting to mention that when the current is met by wind and tide flowing in there is an ugly jobble a long way up that is very much against outriggers and batswings, and generally detrimental to good racing. Things had now reached a climax, but still there were a number who had not yet enough of Wanganui. According to previous arrangements the Paterson was to have started home that night, but an enthusiastic crowd assailed Mr Billings and pleaded hard for the steamer to be detained another day to make up for the time lost by missing the bar. It was impossible to resist the importunement of such a crowd, and orders were accordingly given to detain the steamer another day. As Captain Kennedy objected to face the channel and bar in the dark, the steamer did not start till nine o’clock next morning (Saturday), when a large crowd assembled on the wharf to take leave of the Wellington excursionists, A few farewell cheers, and the steamer was once more on her way. The bar being good, though boiling with white-maned curlers, it was soon passed. The re,st of the way was rapid and pleasant, and tli9 wharf was made about ten that night. Of WANGANDI ITSELP little need be said, as most of our Wellington readers have visited it some time or another. It is a handsomely laid out town, well provided in spirituous and spiritual wants. Its publichouses are as numerous and attractive as its places of public worship are handsome and imposing. The site is a trifle too low, the surrounding high land making the atmosphere rather close and unhealthy, and especially so for children, of which there is said to be an unusually heavy mortality. Where the soil is not sandy, it is rich to an extraordinary degree, its fertility being almost inexhaustible ; and, if anyone has any doubts upon the point, a visit to Mr Williamson’s nursery will remove them immediately. It is only a five-acre patch; but in point of richness, it is equal to ten ordinary acres. It is said that the owner is prepared to sell it for £1000; and, if that bo the case, I should advise the Borough Council to buy him out at once as a nucleus for a botanical garden, as it adjoins the town belt. Within a short distance of the town are two magnificent reserves of wator of crystaline purity and unfathomable depth, ready to pour out their fluid treasure without any engineering skill. They only require tapping, and Wanganui will be the best supplied town with water in New Zealand.