A VISIT TO TAUPO.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 106, 15 February 1873, Page 2

A VISIT TO TAUPO.

A correspondent signing himself " J. W." writes .the following letter from Tapuaeharuru to the " Hawke's Bay Herald " : As to the road, first impressions are apt to be somewhat unfavorable. The tedium of crossing the Esk some fortyfour times, between Petane and Pohui, is much relieved by the thoroughly characteristic New Zealand scenery, which on either side regales the eye. The Kaiwaka hill had next to be encountered. We found the side-cutting in a very bad state, recent heavy rains having caused many small slips and deep ruts —rendering it advisable for the passengers to get out, which they did. Our arrival at Pohui took place about one p.m. I remember, some twelve months ago, reading the exceedingly interesting account of a visit to this part of the country by a "Lady Tourist," and, 60on after, a critique'by a local journal, in which the authoress was taken to task for her frequent inferences to lunch and other occasions of refreshing the inner man, Such a remark could scarcely have emanated from any one who had previously performed the journey—who had ascended the numerous hills in the way, and inhaled the bracing and appetite-giving air of these lofty regions. For my own part, I have, since leaving home, so thoroughly enjoyed the good things of this life that, were I to write impulsively, I should assuredly commit the very error for which the lady tourist was so severely censured.

At Pohui, then, we found a good plain dinner awaiting us, and we enjoyed' it quite as much as if it had consisted of every delicacy. The " we," be it observed, is not employed in an editorial sense. It so happened, fortunately for me, that the passengers numbered seveial gentlemen, and, although not authorised in a general way to speak for them, I think I may do so on this and other similar occasions. Here we received the gratifying information that a mile or two further on a huge tree lay right across the road, effectually stopping communication. Our driver, Beisemer by name, did not, however, see it in this light. And here I may remark that both drivers on this line are obliging and thorougly reliable men, —men who, under any circumstances, could not fail to inspire confidence. The driver took with him a falling axe, with which, on coming to the tree, he cut a huge notch in it, sufficiently deep to enable the empty coach to be hauled over with the assistance of the passengers, all of which was but the work of a few minutes.

Another series of side cuttings were now 1 before us—the accent and descent of Titiokura. In some places the incline is considerable, the turns sharp, and the valley on one side deep and precipitous. A person travelling the road for the first time is apt to feel nervous, and to be reminded of Shakespeare's description of Dover Cliff and the samphire gatherers. How fearful And dizzy 'tis to cast one's eyes so low. —The thought will involuntarily cross the mind that, were anything to go wrong, horses, vehicle, driver, and passengers would speedily be an unrecognisable heap. But to parody a wellknown coupletAfter having travelled once or twice, The eye becomes more Irish and less nice. —The allusion to the Emerald Isle is, I apprehend, a tribute to the coolness in danger of the sons of that land which gave us Braitain's best captain ; at least, it is in that sense I use it. By-and-bye, we get to the valley of the Mohaka, and cross the river in a canoe. On looking back at the road just traversed, we see at a giddy height what looks a narrow shelf cut in the precipitous rock, along which the coach has been driven. Have I said too much about these side cuttings? Remember,lam conveying first impressions, and these, too, of a partial invalid. I don't really believe I shall, on my return, feel anything Jike the nervous feeling I did on thejourney up. Remember, also, that the coaches are the best of the kind, the drivers the most skilful, and the horses thoroughly trained to the work, as well as accustomed to the road. The huge mountain Turangakumu pow lay between us and Turawera. A

great deal of engineering skill has been displayed in surmounting this formicl- j able difficulty, as well, indeed, as gener-1 ally throughout this gigantic work. | Nevertheless, I was not sorry to find myself, at dusk, safely edsconced in the Tarawera Hotel, about 47 miles from the Western Spit, where we found a good tea awaiting us, which was quite acceptable. Next morning early the luggage of the passengers and any parcels there might be besides were fixed on a packhorse, while other horses were being saddled for the use of the passengers—the state of the road for some miles beyond Tarawera preventing the coach from going on further. A pleasant ride of twelve miles —over hill and dale, generally on the new road, but occasionally on the old track, through magnificent forest scenery, with occasional glimpses of a gully with exquisitely variegated foliage, or n picturesque waterfall—brought us to Runanga, a redoubt placed on the top of a high hill, and forming a very conspicuous object in the distance. At one time this was a highly important and v\ell appointed post, with its literary institute, its newspaper, its concerts, &c, but it is now held by a comparatively small detachment of armed constabulary under Captain Gudgeon, b'our miles more riding, chiefly over flat country, brought us to the end of this part of our journey. On the way we passed several gangs of laborers employed in fixing culverts and in other work necessary before this part of the road can be opened to traffic. To us there seemed a good deal to do, but I am informed that difficulties are fast disappearing, and that wheeled vehicles will soon run right through. Here we had dinner, served in homely fashion by a pleasant looking Scandinavian woman, but not on account of its homeliness the less enjoyable. Thence we travelled by coach, chiefly over pumice plains, almost destitute of vegetation except tussock and manuka, reaching Opepe, twenty miles distant, soon after three p.m. This is a military station of some importance, in command of Captain Northcroft. Here also, it being head-quarters, resides Major Scannell, the officer in charge of the district. It seemed a picturesque spot, with some little bustle_about it. It boasts, I understand, a well-furnished reading-room. A drive of eleven miles more brought us to Tapuaeharuru, on the far-famed Taupo Lake, at the spot on the northern side where the Waikato takes its second departure, at a distance from Napier of 96 miles. Here—at Tapuaeharuru, we beg pardon, the township of Bowen—where but a few months ago the only buildings were those of the military redoubt, we found a commodious hotel, kept by Mr Hastie, where our wants were duly supplied and comforts at tended to. The redoubt commands the junction of the "Waikato with the Lake, "and, if we except the Native Contingent under Major Mair, is the furthest inland military station. It is in charge of Captain Gascoigne. The township also boasts rather a commodious court house, and from a romantic point of view, is very grandly situated. The land, however, being chiefly pumice, is very unproductive. The scene is one of great beauty, and I only regret my inability to doit justice in words. In front, in the foreground, is the Lake, twenty-five miles long by twenty at its broadest place —quite an inland sea. In the background, towering to the sky in the distance, are Ruapehu and Tongariro, the former 9000 to 10,000 feet above the level of the sea* and covered with perpetual snow ; thelatter a system or group of mountain cones, the highest of which Ngauruhoe, estimated at 6500 feet, occasionally emits volumes of steam. This cone was lately aecended by an enterprising party from Auckland, whose account, as promised, will be* looked forward to with interest. Behind the township, and distant from it four or five miles, is the extinct volcano of Tauhara, the slopes of which are said to present the only good land in the neighborhood. I fear I must conclude my first letter, which I commenced with hesitation, and finish, I fear, rather abruptly. It is to be hoped, some will doubtless say, that the writer, as he improves in health under the influence of the hot . sulphur springs of this wonderful

locality, will feel himself equal to- the task of infusing more interest into future communications. And I cordially echo the sentiment.