LILY OF THE VALLEY

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXIII, Issue 22350, 22 February 1936, Page 34 (Supplement)

LILY OF THE VALLEY

TASK IN RENOVATION The most frequent mistakes made in the culture of the Lily of the Valley is that, because it prefers a shady place, any old corner is considered good enough. There is no reason why those Lily of the Valley roots which have been in the garden for some years without flowering should not contribute their quota of bloom, but as it may take two or three years to bring about the improvement I would advise getting some healthy roots to plant one half of the bed, so that there will be some flowers while the weak roots are gaining strength. Considering that the bed will remain undisturbed for several years, and will be occupied by plants which make a good deal of root, there is $ need for plenty of food. If you have a good position against a fence, where shade is cast on the bed during the heat of the day, dig it over •2ft deep and work in a thorough dressing of decayed manure and rotted refuse, If this is dona at once, the ground will be settled sufficiently to undertake the planting in a fortnight. The actual planting is not difficult, all that is required being to draw gutters across the bed at intervals of 9in. Lay the roots along, with the crowns about 6in apart, and not more than about 2in below the surface level; draw in the soil and make it reasonably firm. If the old foliage is still green, it is unnecessary to cut it off, but if withered, cut the stalks lin from the This treatment should give the plants a good start toward that stage when they will produce plenty of flower. The principal items of management will be to keep the beds free from weeds, water

Well whenever the soil is dry, avoid cutting the foliage -while it remains green, and give an annual top-dressing of old, crumbly manure and leaf mould in the autumn.

Old beds may also be renovated by taking out trenches 6in wide, and a full spade's depth right through the bed, leaving about Bin undisturbed between. Fill the trenches with tho rich* est soil and manure it is possible to obtain. Roots will quickly spread through the new Boil, and make good strong crowns. Two years later, treat the intervening strips. If this is done the bed will last for many years provided an annual top-dressing is given in March or April.

THE SEED BED r METHOD OF STERILISATION At this time tho seeds of many perennial border and rock plantß are ripening. All seeds germinate more readily if sown as Boon as they are ripe, but in the case of strong-growing kinds it is better to sow in a sheltered, semi-shaded spot out of doors than in boxes or other containers. Frame beds can be resolved for the smaller and more fragile kinds. The chief drawback to sowing seeds of flowering plants in the open is the risk of their becoming over-run and smothered by weeds. This majy be remedied by scalding the bed with boiling water a day or two before sowing the seeds. When the soil is well soaked, cover it with matting, bags, of paper, weighted down. This preveuts fresh weed seeds from alighting. Hot water is not efficacious; it must be capable of scalding, in which case it will kill weed seeds, fungus Bpores and ground insects. After 24 hours tho surface should bo in a condition to crumble down to a fine tilth -by raking. The seeds may then bo sown. Allow plenty of room between, so that tho young plants may stand unharmed until growth is again active in the spring.