NATURE NOTES

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXII, Issue 22262, 9 November 1935, Page 1 (Supplement)

NATURE NOTES

OUR EDIBLE SHELLFISH

BY A. W. B. POWELL

Undoubtedly shellfish were among; the first staple foods of mankind, but in these enlightened days the vast array of delicacies available has had the effect of gradually reducing shellfish to a very insignificant part of our diet. The Maoris knew the value of shellfish, and their fine physique may be in part due to this rich and wholesome diet. It has been pointed out that the consumption of shellfish such as the paua, which feeds exclusively upon seaweeds containing much iodine, is probably the reason why goitre is not very prevalent with the Maori race. It may" be taken then as a safe rule that any of the shellfish used by the Maoris are quite wholesome if not always palatable. A glance at any of the ancient shell middens of tho Maori people shows that the pipi, tuangi 14 " (cockle), toheroa; tuatua, tipa (scallop), paua, kuku (mussel) and titiko (mud snail) were most frequently used. Ourselves, we specialise in a few shellfish such as the ouster, mussel, toheroa and cockle; but the other kinds favoured by the Maoris are almost entirely neglected by Europeans. Of the species favoured by the Maoris, two, the tipa and the paua, would be pophlar delicacies if their excellence was more widely known.

Tho tipa is that largo fan-shaped scallop with one side curved and the other flat. It occurs in great abundance on the tidal mudflats, particularly the banks on the Manukau. This curious shellfish simply rests on the mud, the flat side uppermost, and like most bivalve shellfish gets an abundance of food by sifting out minute animal and plant life (plankton) from the seawater. When a change of location is desired the tipa can move quite effectively by simply raising the flat valve and then slamming it shut quickly, thus ejecting a jet of water which causes the shell to shoot forward a few feet at a time. It is the powerful central muscle in the tipa that is such good eating, and fried as one does an egg, it has a delightful flavour, faintly reminiscent of young crayfish.

The paua is that beautiful iridescent shell with which the Maori people inlay their carvings. It is shaped like a limpet, but with a row of small holes near to one edge. The animal occupying this handsome shell is shir.ing black and in appearance not too inviting when thought of in terms of food, but when the intervening necessary preparations are over and forgotten one may settle down to a really enjoyable meal, for the paua, when properly cooked, has a flavour all its own. The paua is not common in the vicinity of Auckland, but in the south, and particularly at Stewart Island and Chatham Islands, it occurs in great abundance. Living, they are not easily located, as the beau-tifully-coloured interior the shell is hidden by the anima.l and the rough exterior renders them well camouflaged in the deep rocky pools where they are mostly found. The desh of the paua has been analysed by Dr. J. Malcolm, of Dunedin, who declares it to be a wholesome food, rich in protein, iodine and various mineral salts. Having overcome the usual prejudices I sampled the paua some years ago, and since have never missed an opportunity whenever this, my favourite shellfish, is in the offing.

It may interest readers to know how simple it is to prepare the paua, and also how equally simple it is to transform it into something akin to sole leather or a chunk of old motor tyre. The procedure is as follows: — Remove the paua from its shell and discard all the soft parts, leaving only the tough foot and muscle and taking care that a long white ribbon-like apparatus is removed from the mouth. This is a wise precaution, as this ribbon is studded with hundreds of sharp, tiny teeth. Next take tha animal and rub it with a coarse rag, a part of the process not really necessary, but it makes the article look better if anyone is watching the proceedings. The paua animal is now placed inside, say, an oatmeal bag, and pounded with a piece of wood to ensure its being tender, then rolled in Hour and grilled for about three minutes, but no longer. Paua, when proporly cooked, does not taste at all liue shellfish. It is more like tender steak but distinctive in flavour nevertheless. To the summer camper paua should make a valuable substitute for meat. In fact, the old colonial name for this shellfish is mutton-fish. Both the tipa and the paua have relatives abroad that are classed as special delicacies, and 1 cannot see any reason why our species should not bo just as good, if not better.

Another neglected shellfish is the tuatua, a relative of the toheroa, which it closely resembles except that the shell is smaller and thicker. The tuatua occurs mostly on the East Coast beaches and the toheroa prefers the great ironsand coastline of tlio West. Great numbers of the tuatua are to be had on such beaches as Onei:oa and Onetangi, Waiheke Island. Although living below the surface of the sand, their presence is revealed by tiny holes in the surface caused by the long siphon tubes with which these shellfish suck down the sea water and obtain their food. Soup made from' tha tuatua is quite good but of a sweater flavour than toheroa soup.

The tuangi (cockle), pipi, and kuku (mussel) are so well known that one may pass them over. All have considerable food value and are quite palatable. The titiko (mud snail), however, I cannot recommend, as I have not as yet had the courage to try one. This species lives toward high-water mark on mud flats and is particularly abundant on the tidal flats of both the Auckland and Manukau Harbours. It resembles a garden imail, but is much more wrinkled. The titiko, however, wa= so esteemed by the Maoris that they frequently went long distances to the coast in order to get supplies.

The aucient shell dumps or kitchen middens of the Maori people have often caused speculation as to their origin. Great masses of shell occur on Mount Eden, Mount Victoria and many other sites on the Auckland Isthmus and elsewhere, and it is only after noting the great depth of many of these shelldumps that one realises how much shellfish meant to the Maoris of old. Certainly no seaside dweller in New Zealand need ever want for food with such abundance and variety within easy reach.