INDUCING FRUITFULNESS

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXII, Issue 22202, 31 August 1935, Page 8 (Supplement)

INDUCING FRUITFULNESS

BARK-RINGING METHOD A common cause of barrenness in fruit trees is that the tree is growing too strongly and does not form fruit buds. The unproductive tree in tlio garden or orchard is worthless and unless it can be encouraged to bear crops of fruit the land is better devoted to something else. A tree that is growing quickly will produce a number of wood shoots, but very few fruit buds, and a check of some kind is needed to encourage fruiting. Old Method Discarded

Tho work of root-pruning, while frequently successful, is at tho best a laborious undertaking, and the practice of bark-ringing is becoming more popular. Uark-ringing consist 3of cutting out a narrow ring of bark around the tree-trunk. This alters the distribution of the sap in such a way that large numbers of fruit buds aro formed, and the number of wood buds will be reduced. Although tho simplest form of bark-ringing 'consists of taking out a narrow ring of bark right round the trunk, there aro variations of the method which do not imposo such a heavy tax on the tree. Two halfcircles of bark may be removed one above the other on opposite sides of the tree. Tho bark removed to be about three-quarters inch wide. This method is safer than cutting a circle right round the tree, as it is not likely to entirely stop the flow of sap, which might result in the loss of the tree if not carefully done. The cuts in all cases aro to be made right down to tho wood, and it is a good plan to pai«t over the cuts with white lead paint. It is important that the bark-ringing be done while tho trees are in flower if it is to succeed. Bark-ringing can he practised on strong-growing apple or pear trees quite safely. Plum and cherry trees may bo operated upon, but with these as with all other "stono fruits" the operation is fraught with danger as it may lead to a serious attack of gumming. Methods and Tool Required A convenient tool for bark-ringing can be mado by bolting two safetyrazor blades to a piece of iron of a

diameter equal to the width tho cut i 3 to be; in this case half to threequarters of an inch. A circle of this width should never be taken out completely round tho tree. One-eighth to one-quarter inch would be sufficient, as it is essential that tho cuts heal over as quickly as possible. If the tree is growing very strongly tho ends of the two half-circles can be made to overlap a little. The greater the overlap the greater the check to the tree. Bark-ringing is a frequent cure for lack of cropping when the trouble is due to over-vigour, or tho failure of tho tree to flower. It is of no use when the failure of the treo to yield is duo to lack of pollination. Some varieties are self sterile, that is, they will not produce fruit unless they are planted near to other varieties blossoming at the same time. Jf tho failure to iruit. is due to this cause, bark-ringing will not help, tho only remedy being to plant another variety blossoming at the same time, or adopt the more modern method of top grafting a piece of another variety ou tho treo as a pollinator'. Bark-ringing should not bo carried out on very young trees, or it may injure their constitution. Strong healthy trees may, however, be operated upon with confidence that they will bo induced to fruit tho following season. LIME AND MANURE When quicklime, slaked lime, or ground lime, is mixed with stablo or farm manure, or comes into contact with it in the ground, ammonia is liberated and there is a loss of this valuable fertiliser. A month or more should elapse between liming and manuring, tho lime being applied first. Salt, copperas (green vitriol), peat, charcoal and gypsum, may all bo mixed with manuro as they "fix" the ammonia, and indirectly add to its value. Wet soil, placed over hot fermenting manuro, wi'l retain tho ammonia. BACTERISED PEAT Of recent years a special brand of peat has been prepared by tho introduction of nitryfying bacteria, and it is claimed that some of the bacteria neutralise acid, while others produce organic nitrogen, thus making its use safer as well as more beneficial for all manner of crops, in almost any kind of soil. This introduction will no doubt prove of benefit to poor soils.