CAGE BIRDS
By TAILFEATHERS
Fancier Friends: Several people have written to 1110 when they have birds seriously ill, and asked for advice. Owing to tho pressure of space, it is not always possible to reply the Saturday after tho receipt, of the question. If fanciers in serious trouble (such as birds dying) enclose a stamped, addressed envelope, Taill'eathers will ho pleased to send them advice by return in the hope that tho life of tho bird will be saved.
Simple Hints on Breeding Budgerigars This attractive littlo parrakeet is often called a lovebird, beeauso as a rule tho male and female birds stand together on tho porch, most of tho time at peaco with each other, but, ol course, occasionally having a slight difference of opinion. There is also a popular myth that if tho birds are separated they will die. This is incorrect, for each sex will livo in single blessedness providing it is given tho recognised good treatment. Tho popularity of tho budgerigar is eonstantiy increasing, particularly as its almost human antics and its capacity to learn to talk have become known by tho public. It is also 0110 of those species of birds which go to nest easily and givo the owners all tho thrills of seeing tho unexpected happen in front of them, tho colour not expected or a quality not anticipated developing under their eyes. Great Variety ol Colours
Another attractive quality of the budgerigar is the variety of colours in which it is obtainable. Should one wish to have a blue bird to blend with a grey room one can bo obtained. In fact, budgerigars are obtainable in colours that will blend with any colour scheme desired, Should one be fortunate enough to keep tlio budgerigars in a largo or small out-door aviary, tlio range of colours is only governed by the accommodation available Known colours aro green, olive, yellow, sky blue, cobalt blue, mauve, white and many intermediate varieties Most of these colours are also obtainable now in the grey wing species, that is, the markings on the back of the birds, instead of being black, are a definite grey colour. A grev wing sky blue bird is an exceedingly pretty study in pastel shades, the sky blue not being as vivid a colour as cobalt, while the grey markings on the back give it a delicate appearance in definite contrast to the rather glaring colours of some other birds. Definitely, grey wings can bo bred just as easily as ordinary marked birds, and it is not essential to have a pair of grey wings to continue this attractive colour. A grey wing bird paired to a white bird will produco grey wings among the young. Few Troubles While Breeding Budgerigars aro no trouble-breeders. One has not to be constantly watching them in the breeding' season for egg binding, or to be on guard against insects that creep and crawl. That pest of all bird fanciers, red mite, is usually not troublesome with these birds, providing, of course, the accommodation is clear of them from the start. Many fanciers breed budgerigars one pair to a cage, H6in. in length, 18in. high by 18in. deep, sometimes putting a nesting receptacle, outside, occasionally inside Putting it outside gives the birds a larger area for exercise, makes it easier to examine the young and clean the nest, but requires some precaution to prevent losing a bird that may escape when attending to their wants If you breed your birds in a cage, you must give the young ones a larger space in which to fly, to develop their muscles during their ndolesence. Generations of birds bred in cages become weak, over fat, and fail to conform with the ideal standard of a long, slim, tapering, fast-flying bird. Often fanciers keeping birds in aviaries have to be particularly careful concerning the wire-netting, and see that it has not got pieces of solder adhering to the loints. Budgerigars arc very inquisitive, and like to try everything with their beaks, and in doing so might easily dislodge a piece of the metal and swallow it, with fatal results
The Need lor Exercise Exercise for budgerigars is essential Some fanciers use too many perches, with the result that the birds just hop from perch to perch instead of flying. A good idea is the use of rope, across each end of the aviary and nothing in between. Hope prevents losses caused by frights at night, made by prowling cats frightening the birds by climbing on the sides of the aviary or by running on the top of the netting. The cat hopes that a bird will fly against the netting in its terror, and it can then strike at the bird with its claws and pull its victim through. Moroporks act in the same manner. Cats and moroporks are responsible for most losses in out-door aviaries, though occasionally rats burrow in underneath the wall of the enclosure. The use of a double layer of netting, even if it is of a larger mesh, on top of the half-inch roof of the aviary, with a space between of 2in., will minimise losses, but unfortunately oven this will not prevent birds flying in fright about the aviary at night should a cat or a morcpork frighten them from 011 top. During this terrified flight they sometimes fly
Letters requesting information regarding the caro of cage birds will be answered in tliis column each week. Readers are invited to writa to Tailfcathurs. New Zealand Herald Office, Auckland. DDPtraaaononDococaouuDQncjauoGQOLiaouuouuaDaauDnnnoDnon*
blindly against wooden perches or projection, sustain concussion, and in the morning you unfortunately pick up several dead birds on the ground. The use of rope for perches reduces these losses, while a, cat trap or a pea ride further reduces them. One famous fancier in England always advocated having a hole dug ready in the back garden. He said that an angry neighbour was always much easier to interview if tho corpse was not visible. It is reported that several fanciers in Auckland have taken his advice to heart.
When you pair up the birds handle them carefully. The hen bird will usually seo to tiiis, as otherwise she will give you a nip. You want to look at their condition, and see if the hen, in particular, is too fat. Too much condition is usually a fault with two or three-year-old hens, and is brought about by them continuing to consume a larger quantity of seed than necessary after tho young ones of the previous year are reared. Some of the best feeding hens become too fat for this reason. Do not throw out a bird 011 account of its condition before you have looked up the number of young produced last year. The over-weight can bo reduced by an enforced diet of Aus-tralian-Hungarian millet seed, giving tho usual grit and cuttlefish also. A fortnight of this diet, with exercise, will correct most cases. A few days before putting in the nesting receptacle, sprinkle some canary seed or good white millet seed soaked with cod liver oil on top of the dish of millet. The quantity of cod liver oil absorbed will prevent practically every case of possible egg binding. Try to pick your birds for good points. Ask some fancier friend the requirements of a show bird if you do not already knuw them. Never breed from weak birds. Aim to get them with bold heads, short necks, good chests and a long, tapering body. Do not givo them the nest when you first put them into the breeding compartment, but introduce it about a week after you have put the two sexes together. (To bo continued next week)
ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS Genuine, Onehunga.—To tame a young budgerigar, take it from the nest )ÜBt berore or just when it in ready to fly, and clip one wing. Let one person only look niter it, and get that person to keep ( on^ repeating one word only, such as ''Joey, * Billy or some other selected word. Repeat this name to the bird continually until the bird has every confidence in you. Sometimes within a few weeks and sometimes after a couple of months, the bird will commence to take notice of the one word spoken and endeavour to imitate you When once the word has been mastered, the art of talking is really acquired, and it is only a matter of increasing the vocabulary slowly, building tip by one or two words at a time, xhe wing feathers will grow again, when they need to lie again clipped. It is possible to so tame a bird that it will never fly away, but there is always n risk Hard Luck, Benson Road.—A cock greenfinch if moulted in captivity will easily hybridise with a hen canary The trouble with your canaries seems lo be infectious enteritis, or possibly only indigestion. Clean all perches unci ledges in the enclosure with hot water, soap and a strong solution of disinfectant, removing the birds while this spring cleaning is going on Pay particular attention to perches. Give the birds a few drops of a tannin solution in water, and keep them where they are out of the cold wind. There are several other internal antiseptics which could be tried. Send a stamped, addressed envelope for reply u unable to secure medicine
J.D., Te Kauwhata.—The female goldfinch is smaller and duller than the cock bird. The lien's wings are shorter than those of the cock, while the cock's beak is wider at the base and longer The rump of the cock iB white, sometime* varied with a liUle reddish brown tinge fn the ben the rump is coloured with a little greyish brown. The wings of the cock bird are black, but those of the hen are rusty black The wing bnrs are bright yellow in the cock and duller in the hen. The red blaze of the cock is brighter, but the extent of it is not always an indication of sex, although the intensity of colour is a guide. There is usually more difficulty- with sexing goldfinches than with any other British finch. Ived Polls: The female is smaller, with no rose colour on the breast or rump. A cock canary can always be distinguished in the breeding season by its song, while its vent slightly protrudes. The cock canary does not assist with maternal duties, except in feeding. Thirteen to fourteen days from when the hen commences sitting the first young one hatches out. It is usual to remove the eggs as laid and replace when the third egg has been deposited.
Budgerigar, Waipipi.—ln addition to millet 6ccdß and sow Miistle, stem nnrl henna, give the bird canary seed nnd a little hulled oats, or buy a proprietory line of scientific blended seeds. Peed also silvorbcot, lettuce and dandelion leaves. See answer to "Genuine." Single blessedness will do a budgerigar no harm. Cover the cage while the bird is young if it is ke ; pt out on a • porch. Budgerigars aro exceptionally hardy and will stand cold as 'olm as they are out of the strong winds. J,P., Remuern.—The beak wants to be pared back carefully to its normal shape, and the bird given a piece of old mortar, a piece of cuttlefish nnd twigs to gnaw, so that the natural growth is worn away. Bo careful in cutting the benk that you do not j go hack to the sensitive portion, which will bleed. EI.P., Clandelands. Any proprietary canary food mixed with finely-chopped fresh boiled egg will do for rearing a thrush. Be careful to boil the egg for at least ten minutes, and use both white nnd yolk. Give the bird mealworms and snails, feed- ! ing at, least every hour. Make n nest in hay and cover the bird with thinnel nt night. Change the liny frequently. Take the bird just ns tlie pin fenlhers nre breaking. Do not, touch the bird unless you are prepared i to do the job properly, nnd devote time I to its roaring. Neglect is cruelty. If you do the bird well ydn will be amply rewarded by having a tame, attractive songster. Budgerigars want to be nt least ten months old before you breed from them. Twelve months is better.
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New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXII, Issue 22202, 31 August 1935, Page 5 (Supplement)
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2,053CAGE BIRDS New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXII, Issue 22202, 31 August 1935, Page 5 (Supplement)
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