THE EARLY COURTS

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXII, Issue 22087, 17 April 1935, Page 5

THE EARLY COURTS

SOME DRESS REGULATIONS bouquets of many shapes > SILVER AND SPUN GLASS [from our own con respondent] LONDON. March 30 At the first Court of this unusually early season, Lady Howart ol' Bury, the -js G w Zealand wife of the Lord Chief Justice, was presented to Their Majesties by Lady'.Branson. She wore a gown of fondant-pink niarquisetto embroidered with pearls and silver sequins. The train of niched niarquisetto was embroidered to match the gown. Diamond ornaments were worn, and a pink ostrich feather wafc carried. Being so early in the year, the debutantes and their sponsors approached Buckingham Palace in darkness. As evening developed some of the cars were illuminated inside, though many people preferred fco remain in the gloom and offered 110 more than a dim vision to ojilookers.

Regulations, for dress at this year's Courts have been tightened up with a view to restoring; their strict observance. During recent years women (or their dressmakers) appear to have thought that a good deal of licence is permitted in the matter. That is not 50. The regulations must be obeyed. Here are two of the directions in which women have transgressedThey have worn high necks. Many have worn their feathers, in the words of a Court official, '"all over the pi ace. High Necks Forbidden The Lord Chamberlain has taken steps to stop the wearing of high necks. He has made a new regulation, stating that '"ladies attending Their Majesties' Courts must wear low evening dresses." This was introduced into the rules as a direct result of last year's high-necked mode. Many of the Court dresses were made almost up to the throat. Of course, elderly ladies who are afraid of catching cold would be justified in applying to the Lord Chamberlain for permission to wear high dresses. Queen Victoria enforced the rule rigidly. Silver was the keynote in the design of the dresses at the first Court. Exquisite fabrics, filmy and fairy like, had been woven specially for the lovely frocks of both chaperons and debutantes. So delicate in design that they might have been cobwebs, silver tissue and silver "lame fashioned the frocks of some of the 17-year-olds, who attended at » a much earlier age than usual, so that they could ''come out" in jubilee year. Others had picture dresses of the new spun glass and silver, taffetas and tissue. While ostrich feather fans are so frequently preferred to flowers, it is interesting to notice how varied are the nam as and the shapes of the season s bouquets. Quite the newest idea is literally to wear the bouquet, for this is attached to a wristlet of elastic, thus leaving the hand quite free. From this attachment the flowers may form a long cascade or a medium shower —"tumbling water" effect is the recognised term. Mingling with these floral showers there "is ysuallv a tie of gold or silver tissue, or one of a soft velvet ribbon, while - tulle finishings are soft and dainty The Second Court The King, in the scarlet uniform of Colonel-in-C'hief of the Brigade of Guards, and the Queen, in a magnificent dress' of--gold lame, embroidered with crystal on gold net, were the central figures in\a scene of magnificence arid splendour' at the Second Jubilee Court last night. The Queen's train was of exquisite Belfast lace over a foundation of gold' lame, and of course she wore wonderful jewels, including the famous Kohinoor. In the Royal circle were the Duke and Duchess of York, the Duke of Gloucester (wearing the uniform of a major of Hussars), and the Marquess of Cambridge. Among those present of New Zealand interest were Ladv Tuck, who presented her elder daughter. Miss Joan Annette Tuck, Mrs. H. C. Hollebone, Miss Elizabeth Ritchie (Dunedin), the Misses Sylvia and Iris Ryle. Lady Tuck looked very handsome in .a classical gown of silver brocade, belted with blue and silver lame. Her fflam was of blue and silver. Miss Tuck wore a picture gown of cream poujt de soie, with train of silver lame. Airs. H. C. Hollebone (formerly Miss Helen Cane, of Christchurch) was in a gown of ivory -.tinted crepe woven with gold thread. The corsage was draped to one side and tied with a bow of lacquerred and gold crepe, the long sash ends falling from; beneath the cascaded basque of the skirt to the hem line. The train was of pale gold woven lame. Mrs. Hollebon§ carried one of the new wrist-fall bouquets, comprised of beige Cymbidium orchids, tied with gold tissue. • / Miss Svlyia Ryle (presented by Mrs. Louis Collier) jmd her sister, Miss Iris Ryle, wore twin picture gowns of iceblue and ivory-white satin, the off-the-shoulder bodices being finished with sashes of velvet.. Their trains were of satin and net. Each carried a bouquet of moonlight leaves and white camelias tied with silver gauze. Miss Elizabeth Ritchie's dress was of pale green sunrav pleated lame, with a silver sash." Her train was of velvet to tone and she carried a feather fan.