ELLESMERE LAND

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXI, Issue 21951, 7 November 1934, Page 10

ELLESMERE LAND

UNIVERSITY EXPEDITION (TRIP TO CANADIAN ARCTIC ENCOUNTERS WITH ESKIMOS BY DR. NOEL TIT*MT*HREYR (Copyright) No. I. The Oxford University Kxpcdition to Ellesmere Land in the Canadian Arctic which left London on July 17 has now established its winter Quarters at Ltah. The Norwegian sealer, the Sigiinlhorn, in which the party sailed, has left for the South and'we are living in tents A hut has" yet to be built. Some time was lost; at the start of

on.'' journey by reason oi heavy seas that damage.i the cargo and not only prevented the Signalhorn making headway hut sent 'her astern. Some lost time was made up in Pentland I'irth, where we made 14 knots. oft Cape harewell wo again met rough weather for two f!a\s. but by August 3 it was calm. Our next objective was Sukkertoppen, ou the west coast ot Greenland, where we had ordered Six tons of dried tish tor dog food. Wc heard, however, by wireless that only half a ton had been available, and that this had been sent to Godhavn. farther north on the Greenland coast. We next tried to make Holstenborg, but the coast was thick in m st, and, nor. having seen the sun for several day-., our exact position was unknown, so it was necessary to take frequ?nt soundings. Quarters for tlie Wintei We reached Godhavn on August 5 after a journey of 13 days. Godhavn is on Disko, the largest island of Greenland, and the centre of the North Greenland Government. We found waiting for us the hut for our winter quarters. 50 dogs, dog food, and sealskin boots made for us by the natives. We received bad news as to the ice conditions farther north; both Bartlett. in the Morrisev, and Wordie, in the H eiman. had failed to get into Melville Bay, owing to the lateness of the breakup oi the ice. The same conditions had caused Martin.- Lindsey to be nearly a month late in starting his sledge journey

Upon arrival at Jacobshavn on August 6 we went on board the Dannebrog and obtained permission to engage Eskimos from Robertson Bay. We then bought 20 dogs, 4900 kilos of dog food, sealskin boots, dog whips, and a dory to take the place of the whale boat which we had been obliged to leave at Gravesend An advantage of our Hsit to Jacobshavn was that our captain was able to confer with Captain Petersen of the Dannebrog and get the latest ice reports. We returned to Godhavn by night, and immediately took on board the hut, the 50 dogs, and the sealskin boots. We were unable to take on more dog food as our captain would not load the ship further. No Bed During Summer

It would appear that the inhabitants of Northern Greenland do not so to bed during the summer. Throughout the nighiD the number of people about, including quite small children, seems undiminished A\ e found the r.skirjos a friendly, happy, and honest people, and their relations with the ]")anes seemed ideal. The country was bright with flowers: poppies, willowherb, mouse-ear, chickweed, and saxifrage. There are, of course, no trees, bm the grass and dwarf willow cave a \p]-y pleasant greenness to the landscape.

Sivue members of the expedition bacnod in a lake near Godhavn and found the temperature to be only sligh :J.v below, 60 decrees Fahrenheit. J);iri!i{j our visit to Godhavn and Jacooshavn we had perfect weather. At, this Reason and latitude the sun bets at about 11 o'clork, but it is never dark at night. At Godhavn a valuable camera lens was lost overhoard in deep, .muddy water. This was retrieved by Ilaig-'l liomas, who dived in ai d brought it back at first attempt. Upset from a Kayak

Wo reached lhule 011 August 11 and got permission to engage at Robertson Bay one Eskimo with his wife, and one unmarried Eskimo. AVe also bought line made from the bearded seal" Thule is in latitude about 76 decrees u0 minutes and is the most northerly telegraph station 011 the Greenland coast. Except for the small Eskimo settlement at Robertson Bay it is the most, northerly inhabited place in America. While at Thule Haig-'l homas made a first attempt at, and had his first upset from, a kayak. Contrary xo our expectation, he was able to get. his head out of water while still seated iu the inverted kayak, and also to extricate himself, without difficulty. We left Thule just before midnight and reached Robertson Bay at noon the next day. Here Stall worthy found Eskimos who had worked lor the Canadian Mounted Police and were known to him. We wirelessed to the Dciunebrog and obtained permission to take these, instead of the Eskimos who had been detailed to us. .1 hose we ha\e engaged are Xookapmguau and Jnvatuk, each with a wife without small children and willing to go with us. Nookapi.uguaq had been to Lake Hazen and was with Stallworthy 011 his search lor Dr Krueger's expedition, which was lost in Ellesmere Land. U-\ was also with Dr. Lauge Koch 011 his journey round the north of Greenland, and with the late Inspector Joy. ot the Canadian .Mounted Bolice, 011 his 1800-mile journey 111 the Canadian Arctic Archipelago. Treat for the Children

Wlnie waiting lor Nookapiriguaci and lnvatuk to come aboard witli their wives, clous, kayaks, and othei gear, we invited the children of the settlement to come and see the ship. This was at 11 p.m., but there was no ajipaicut. diminution in the numbers i,r activities of the children. A do/.cn or m) came aboard, the boys coming -'Hi in their kayaks and the pij-1., hc„m fetched in the motor-boat. Jt I- an 'astonishing si*_rht to see the skill aml confidence with which even quite small boy* managed their kayaks, n<i them alongside and climbing aboard without assistance, e entertained the children with gramophone. biscuits, sweets, and chocolate. Thc> had chai;rniim manners and were perfectly at their ease, the bigger children looking after the smaller ones, making Mire they had their share of the entertainment.