HARDY LILIES

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXI, Issue 21912, 22 September 1934, Page 8 (Supplement)

HARDY LILIES

BULBS OR SEEDS The bulbs of many hardy lilies can still bo planted, but this must be regarded as the latest date for the greater number. In addition to this method it is possible to propagate them by scales, divisions and, in some instances, by bulbils. But seed is rapidly becoming recognised as the readiest means of increase. It produces flowering bulbs in a surprisingly short space of time. Sown now in cold frames in a soil lightened with leaf mould, flowering bulbs will be obtained in four years. The species L. regale nnd L. phillippinense formosanum, Price's variety, will often throw a percentage of bloom two years after sowing. A good axiom in lily culture is always to encase the bulbs in sand when planting. If it is desired to transplant lilies already established, the least check to the plants will occur if the bulbs aro lifted, divided and immediately replanted after flowering. In preparing the bed the use of fresh manure and artificial fertilisers must be avoided, although a little well-decayed stable manure that has been stacked for a year may be permissible. It must bo remembered that it is humus, not stimulant, that is required by lilies. Tho correct depth to plant is a point nearly always raised by those attempting to grow these plants for the first time. Generally speaking it is a safe

rule, and one usually adopted by growers, to plant at a depth equal to three times the diameter of the bulb. Certain species" require to be planted the surface, and others, rather susceptible to severe temperatures, must be planted more deeply. Certain species will produce, in addition to the roots which spring from the base, a second set of roots where the stem leaves the ground surface. These are termed the stem roots and need to be protected from the hot rays of the sun. A cool root run must be provided by planting covering subjects. The richly-coloured Lilium ehalcedonicum has proved disappointing in many districts. An excellent substitute is the true' L. pomponium which has equally telling Turk's caps of the same bright sealing-wax red and an irreproachable constitution. The effect is considerably enhanced by the pollen of the anthers being of the same bright colour. L. pyrenaicum is another Turk's cap lily in yellow, with small black dots. It has an unpleasant odour and its chief value lies in its early flowering. GROWING DELPHINIUMS CHOICE OF ROOTS IMPORTANT It is generally recognised that the delphinium is the queen of the hardy plant border, and the plant's advance from comparative obscurity to fame is a triumph of the raiser's art. It is only by comparing the types in vogue 20 years ago with those in favour today that one can appreciate the advanco made. Delphiniums are not plants which require a fund of technical knowledge to grow them to perfection, but the choice of roots is of vital importance. Those propagated from basal cutting in the spring make the strongest roots. They are possessed of a stamina and vigour that are lacking in those propagated by the obsolete method of division.

Tho time to plant needs consideration, and will depend on the soil and climatic conditions.' In light, sandy soils where there is ample room for drainage during winter, late summer planting can be practised with advantage; that is, always provided the roots are introduced into their new quarters while still active and able to establish themselves before becoming dormant.

if, however, the soil is heavy, retentive clay, considerable risk attends any hut spring planting. By spring is meant the period between mid-August and early October. During this time root action will have commenced and the plants will quickly re-establish themselves. The incorporation of organic manure is a necessity where good spikes are desired; on light and dry soils cow manure that has been stacked for six months is unrivalled for the purpose; on heavier soils strawy horse manure is best. Lime .may be added as top-dressing where there is any sign of acidity, but not at the same time as the manure.

The slug menace is one to be feared, but a dressing of naphthalene or crystals of permanganate of potash round the plants will keep them at bay. During growth all weedy and thin shoots should bo removed above the ground with the aid of n sharp knife when the plants are a foot high, and' the growths secured to bamboo canes as they grow. A secpnd crop of flowers in late summer may be encouraged by the removal one foot above the ground of the withered flower stem. The second crop should be allowed to mature a little seed, otherwise the basal eyes will tend to develop partly, and the following season's display suffer in consequence. Delphinium growerj have their own preference with regard to varieties, and the novice can obtain a good selection of modern varieties nt quite reasonable prices, in all shades of blue from the palest lavender to regal purples.