EARLY POTATOES

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXI, Issue 21888, 25 August 1934, Page 8 (Supplement)

EARLY POTATOES

SHELTER AND SUNSHINE

When selecting crourul on which to plant early potatoes, advantage should bo taken of even the smallest amount of shelter. The ideal border is, of course, one well sheltered from the south, but as fully exposed to the sun as possible. Potatoes crow and crop on light soil much better than thev do on heavy land, and if the only available land is on the heavy side, the best correctives are half-decayed leaf soil, burned earth and a liberal allowance of soot. The tubers intended for planting should have been sprouted bv now in trays. If any show the slightest sigiiH of disease, discard them at once, and it is also as well to throw away any showing weakly sprouts, as being likely to be infected with virus disease. By such attention to small details, a clean and ample crop is assured. Do not plant with a dibber, for the potato has to root into the hard sides of the hole and too often thtfro is a space between the tuber and the bottom which readily fills with water, to the detriment of the seed potato. Number of Sets It is strange how difficult it is for one who may have grown potatoes for years, to bdlievo that he could get a larger crop from the same ground by planting two sets where he has been accustomed to plant three or often one where he has planted two. Yet one may readily secure his agreement to the suggestion that the outside row and the end root of the row will turn out heavier weights than any of the roots in the middle of the plot. That is simply because on one side of these plants the haulm gets unrestricted daylight and fresh air. Open all out a bit and each will benefit proportionately. Few, if any, growers for home use can be persuaded to plant anything so wide apart as it would be wise to do. There seems an irresistibld desire to economise ground space, and pandering to that impulse the home-grower fails to notice he is being unwarrantably extravagant with seed tubers. The far more commendable and profitable economy would be to invest in a smaller quantity of the best sets procurable and give these 50 per cent more room than is the usual custom

Specialised Fertilisers There is so much actual proof available as to leave no room for argument on this second point, and in many instances where potatoes are planted a foot apart in rows two feet asunder it would be of crdat advantage to the crop to make the distances 18 and 30in., which is more like 80 per cent increase of space than 50 per cent. There are several good specialised potato fertilisers on the market, and a dressing may be applied at planting. Superphosphate and potash are also excellent manures for this crop. The manures are best broadcasted or sown upon the surface. It is'unwise to sow them in the drills in direct contact with the tubers. If especially severe weather supervenes in cold districts it is a good plan to cover the ground where the early potatoes are planted with some littdr or fern.

MANURING RASPBERRIES Raspberries will not bear crops of good quality berries if there is a lack of manure. Few fruits respond more readily to a generous mulch of manure each spring. This not only provides nourishment, but also it keeps the surface roots cool and moist during dry periods. The mulch should consist of partly-rotted manure and the best time to apply it is just before the new growths push through from the base of the canes. Failing manure, a mulch of litter or lawn mowings' applied in early summer will"prevent drying-out. In addition to the manure mulch, raspberries should receive timely applications of artificial fertilisers. In most gardens raspberries do not receive sufficient supplies of potash. An application of sulphate of potash in spring will be of distinct benefit to canes which are weakly. The potash can be incorporated in a complete mixture made up of four parts of superphosphate, three parts of sulphate of potash, and one part of sulphate of ammonia, giving about half a pound to each yard run of row.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS

" Ranunculus" (Te AwamutuK—lf you have experienced frost lately, that would account for the ranunculus blooms being damaged, as per sample. The soft part of the stein immediately behind the bud is usually affected, especially after one or two warm days, which bring the flowers on. A frost will nip the tender portions. " Native" (Opotiki).—l. Rhyllocladus tricliamanoides is the native tanekaha, or celery pine. 2. The tree will grow to a height of 70ft. 3. The flowers are inconspicuous, and it would not be classed as a flowering tree in the accepted sense of the term. i. You may divide the winter rhubarb roots now, '• Dahlia" (WaihiK—The dahlia roots are quite dead. It is de.ay, not disease. The cause of the decay may have been sappy growth at the end of the season or too much moisture, with inadequate ventilation during storage. The roots should be examined two or three times in winter, when any decay may be noted and condi'.ions improved if necessary. " Novice" (Whangarei).—A formula which would serve your purpose as a stimulant for j vegetable crops is five parts by weight of i superphosphate, one and a-half parts of sul--1 phate of ammonia, and one and a-half parts of sulphate of potash. Thoroughly mix and keep dry until use, A good dressing is 4oz. 1 per square yard, or 2oz. per linoal yard, for • peas and beans. Apply both sides of the row. ! " Lemons" (Ellerslie). —The lemons are affected with brown rot. Destroy all affected fruit, as the spores of the disease are per- , petuated by these. Spray the trees with I Bordeaux powder, Go*, to four gallons of | water, at intervals of three or four weeks, but not while bloom is present. Remove all low-hanging branches likely to be splashed with water from the ground, as the fruit is infected by this means. Allqw no fruit to remain on the ground. S.W. (Auckland). —1. The presence of sawdust in manure is not desirable. If only in small quantity, it will do no serioiw harm. It encourages fungoid growths in the soil. Storing will not make any difference. Shavings and wood chips are equally undesirable. 2. The easiest way to make sure of the pollination of early tomatoes is to give the plants a sharp tap once or twice about mid-day, wheu the atmosphere is dry. Later on, with warmer conditions, this will not be necessary. " Lysmoyle" (Epsoml.—From your description, the trouble in growing carrots is due to the carrot fly, the grubs of which riddle the roots. To prevent damage, broadcast naphthalene flakes between the rows at the rate of loz. per square yard at intervals of 10 days during November and December, when the fly is engaged in ogy-laying. The flies are attracted by the smell of the carrots during thinning operations and an application should bo made immediately after thinning. Spreading lawn cuttings between the rows will prevent the fly reaching the roots to deposit eggs. If troubled with white aphis on the foliage, spray with nicotine, sulphate and soap. " Welcome Bay" (Taurangai.—l. The Chinese gooseberry will produce fruit the second or third year from planting. It is necessary to have plants of both sexes, the male ?.nd female blooms being formed on separato plants. Grafted plants are sold in pairs. Seedlings are uncertain as to sox. Any pruning needed in the way of thinning out ih clone in early spring, just before growth starts. Same regulation of growth is necessary for established plants, and the growths of the male should be trained among those of the female to ensure fertilisation. 2. Cnrdoons should be grown in a trench similar to that for celery. When of sufficient size their are tied up and blanched by earthing up, or by surrounding by bands of hay or straw. Blanching takes about six to eight weeks. E.M. (Whakatane). —l. The waratah would do better on the eundy ridge than on the ewamp ground, as they need woll-drained soil. Once planted, they should not be disturbed. Protection will be needed from severe frost while young, but when some hard wood is made frost will nojt injure them to any extent. 2. These varieties of dahlias are all giant decoratives of recent introduction: Champoeg, canary to ealmonpink; Derrill W. Hart, yellow, shading to red: Garth Harry, crimson maroon; Girl of Hillcrest. mikado orange: Grey Dawn, oyster grey: Lynnsdale. scarlet: Tang, tawny orange: Murphy's, Masterpiece, deep dark red: Eagle Rock Wonder, orange buff: Golden Girl, William Hogkn. red, tipped white: Shnhranad. deep pink; Royal Flush, scarlet; Isabel McEnley, old rose and pink: Kairanga, silvery pink; Lady Francis, old roso. Thanks for appreciation. KEros.