PREPARING FOR ROSES

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXI, Issue 21792, 5 May 1934, Page 8 (Supplement)

PREPARING FOR ROSES

SOILS AND TREATMENT The-ideal soil for roses is a clayey loam, but how few owners of gardens can hope to find an ideal soil for their l'oses close at hand. Soil of this kind needs the least preparation to make it suitable for roses. It should he dug two spits deep, about 18in. to 20in., the layers'of soil being kept in their respective, positions as the work proceeds. How this is done \vns' explained ".recently in trenching; If procurable, wellrotted manure should be mixed with the lower spit and an application of basic slag, 4oz. i«?r square yard, mixed with the upper layer of soil. If the garden consists., of heavy, clayey soil, it should be cultivated in the saifte way, but other materials must be added to the surface soil and dug in to make it more friablo—a scattering of lime, wood ashes from the garden bonfire, sweepings from garden paths, burned soil and'sand are all excellent materials to add to clayey land. They may be put on during the winter as they" become available and lightly turned in with a garden fork. TREATMENT OF LIGHT SOILS When preparing for roses on land that consists almost solely of sand, or of volcanic origin, to a considerable depth, it is useless 'to dig in manure deeply, for it disappears very quickly and the roses derive little benefit from it. The ground should be dug over two spits deep and turf chopped into pieces about the size of one's fist, should be mixed with the upper layer, • together with well-clecayed manure. On this-kind of land roses benefit chiefly by: top-dress-. ings. Every'"spring the" soil should'bo' top-dressed with manure, preferably cow manure. Turf is invajijable for posps growing in "sandy soil. It should bo dug in before planting and can with advantage be applied annually. On land where limestone is within' lOin. to 12in. of the surface, the only way to grow good roses is to excavate' the limestone to a depth of 20in. and replace it with loam which has been enriched with decayed manure. Roses grown on- limestone land should be topdressed annually with loam and manure put on the soil as sOou as. the pruning is finished. If this practice is not followed the soil will soon become jmpovcrished and the roses make.. weak and unsatisfactory growth. ltoses grown on light or exceptionally well-drained soil, i.e., on a 'subsoil of gravel, seem more liable to attack from the serious black spot, disease than others'on clayey land. It is likely* that this tendency is due in some measure to a lack of potash in the-soil, and it has been found that frequent applications of wood ashes arc particularly 1 beneficial to' roses on light land. They may be put on whenever they become available in autumn, winter and spring. ANNUAL MANURING It is necessary to manure rosebeds nnnually to keep them healthy and vigorous. In alternate years welldecayed manure should be put on the rosebeds as soon as pruning is finished and forked lightly beneath the surface. In the intervening years basic slag may be applied in autumn, using 4o*;.' per square ,yaid. In September a dressing of superphosphate, four parts, and sulphate of potash, two parts, used„ at the rate of 3oz. per square yard, is beneficial. In the place of the super and potash mixture a compound of fertilisers may be used. It is considered an ideal fertiliser for roses. The prescription for the mixture is as follows:—Superphosphate, 32 parts; nitrate of potash, 10 parts; sulphate of lime, 8 parts; sulphate of magnesia,- 2 parts; sulphate of iron, I part. Mix the ingredients together thoroughly and apply at the rate of 2oz. per square yard of soil in September 01 T7 r tober. Once in three years rosebeds should have a scattering of lime m May. ' GAY MONTBRETIAS FLOWERS OF LATE SUMMER the planting of various summer and autumn flowering bulbs at hand, attention should bo drawn to the Montbretia, a group which is not, perhaps, sufficiently recognised by gardeners in general. Only occasionally does ono see them planted in any quantity. More often than not they are assorii- I ated with' other perennials in the ,bor- ! der, and while they arc rio doubt attractive in. this setting, they are not seen at their'best, as they would be if planted,.iii bold clumps by themselves. Although they are not ideal as cut flowers, as the majority drop their lower petals rather quickly, some of tho modern with their slender j spikes of yellow, orange and crimson , shades, cart be used by-many for charming decorative schemes. They lose < none of their charm under artificial i lighting. As exhibition flowers their ' possibilities should not be overlooked, 1 for they make, a desirable addition to any collection by reason of their late summer flowering. Growing tufts are best planted from 4in. to 6in. apart each way, for a bright colour display. For cutting purposes it is better to relegate the plants to the reserve border, planting them in rows about Sin. apart. An occasional application of a reliable fertiliser will increase "the size and quality of the flower spikes. Of recent years the Montbretia has been much improved, both in its size and range of colouring, and the number of varieties has increased amazingly. These are of a more elegant and free-branching habit than - tho older kinds, while tho flowers themselves are greatly increased in size.