THE COMING SILHOUETTE

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXX, Issue 21640, 4 November 1933, Page 6 (Supplement)

THE COMING SILHOUETTE

EDWARDIAN CURVES RETURN SUBTLE INDICATIONS OF CHANGE [special to x.z. herald—copyright] LONDON. September 29 The new sillTouette slides in almost unobserved. This silhouette is vertical but well-informed, making a woman look extremely tall but at the same time rounded, with the natural curves of bosom and hips. It is a fitting line that clings to the knees and narrows the legs, ending in a soft, but definite flare, some eight or ten inches above the ankles, and, in the case of evening dresses, often finishing in a fishtail or short train.

Many evening dresses will have fitted sleeves and high necklines, with soft treatment about the shoulders to balance the low flare of the skirt,, but the real point of this definitely new and lovely fashion is that it follows and displays the feminine form. The newest shoulders will be helped, but not exaggerated, and it is the same ■with sleeves. Enormous shoulder bulk caused by outstanding stiffened frills and gigantic muslin puff-sleeves has no place in the newest models for the coming season.

The newest dress story emphasises the importance of the neck and front of the bodice. This was started by Vionnet of Paris, with her dresses that gathered up by a string round the neck. Now we have bows placed high under the chin, high collars, and scarf draperies that deliberately enclose the neck. The " coat-hanger " shoulders have given way to the " cabbage " neckline, which brings the material of bodice or cape-collar up to the throat in points. Then the front of the bodices are trimmed with soft little jabots, and little bolero jackets have vertical tucks or bands of fur from neck to the waist.

Evening necklines show a good deal of contradiction. They may be tight up to the throat in front, with opening to the waist at the back; high in the front and the back, or entirely slipping off the tops of the shoulders, in the approved Edwardian manner. The " off-the-shoulder " line usually ends in a small frill over the tops of the arms and across the bodice; or a scarf of chiffon is draped across in a similar manner-and caught down at each side of the bodice front. •Another evening dress that looks like a day dress from the front has a dark grev' chiffon skirt and a pale grey top with short sleeves over the snoulders and a neckline that drapes across the front of the throat and falls into scarf draperies at tho back, where it is caught by a buckle. A three-corner piece of prune satin is swathed round the waist with the point fastened up 011 the front of tho bodice by a jewelled brooch, and the other ends tie like a sash at the waistline. This dress suggests new lines and a charming new colour scheme.