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HOTBEDS

METHOD „OF PREPARATION The value of a hotbed to a small gardener, even if it is a small makeshift affair, cannot be over estimated. There are two methods of making hotbeds. One is by digging a trench two feet deep, five feet wide and seven feet long, and placing the beating material in this. The only benefit derived from a sunken bed is that it takes less manure, and better conserves the heat, but it means a lot of labour. The other method is to pile fresh stable manure into a conical heap and turn it over twice at intervals of a few days to allow the rank gases to escape. When the material seems to be in a uniform state of fermentation, nicely hot and not too wet, it can bo put together for the last time in a neat rectangular bed about 18in. wider and longer than the frame to be placed on it. USE OP DEAD LEAVES A good sprinkling of dead leaves collected in autumn will be useful if available, as if mixed with the manure they will steady the heat. Each forkful of the manure should again bo well shaken apart as the bed is built, and as it gets higher it should be repeatedly and evenly trodden firm. About three feet is a suitable height for the hot bed, which when it sinks will result in the bottom of the frame being about two feet from the ground: After placing the frame in position some light, dry soil should be placed inside and levelled. If the bed is made up during the winter fresh manure should bo stacked up round the frame well up to the top. The sash should be left off for a day or two to allow the rank steam to pass off and then a thermometer should be fixed inside. TEMPERATURE AND VENTILATION Seed pans and boxes should not be put in if the thermometer registers more than 90 degrees. It will be better to wait a few more days until the heat subsides. A six by four-sized frame is

Hotbed and Frame the size usually employed, as this is a useful size for many purposes. When the heat of the bed is at the desired temperature, careful ventilation and covering on cold nights will enable it to be regulated and kept even at whatever figuro is desired. To get the maximum amount of sunshine during winter the bed should face to the north. Besides being useful for raising such tender subjects as tomatoes, the frame can be used later for cucumbers or melons when no longer required for seeds.

FRAGRANT SHRUBS Clethra alnifolia, a delightfully fragrant shrub, deserves to he planted in every garden, if only for its tantalising scent, as it has been described. It is an easily-grown shrub, liking for preference a moist or waterside position, but it will also grow in drier places. The clethra blooms in February and has spikes of white flowers, borne on the ends of branching stems. It has dark-green leaves rind reaches up to 10ft. in height. Clethra alnifolia, a native of North America, should be planted in plenty of leaf soil and sand; it has a great dislike to lime. There are several -other species not quito so hardy.. G. nrborea (from Madeira), 0. ferruginea (from Peru), and C. quercifolia (a tropical variety from Mexico), are among the most showy, but none of theso has the perfume of the C. alnifolia. TO CORRESPONDENTS D.M.G.K.. Avondale.—The dahlia and rhubarb root 3 may still be lifted with safety. " Acens," Kotoma.—The specimen of yellow flower is Othonna. abortanifolva, and the need pod ib from tho swan plant (Gomphocarpus fruticoauß). W.H., Mount Eden.—l. Tho lichen does no harm to the azalea. It is the result of growing in shady, moist conditions. 2. For tho 6cale on roses, use white oil emulsion now. N.W.A., Howick.—The Tcason for swoct peas dropping their buds is that the pliujts have been growing too strongly with the excess of moisture. The trouble, will right itself with warmer conditions. H.N.A., Auckland.—The Abyssinian banana, when the stem reaches maturity and floweig. usually dies but suckers often arise from the fleshy root stock the following season. It would bo safer to plant another. " Hotchpot," Stratford.—Canna seeds ran be sown now in boxes o£ sandy soil, as the seeds are very hard. To facilitate germination, file a small nich in each seed before sowing. Cannas will thrive in almost any soil with plenty of stable or cow manure during the summer. New Plymouth.—Tho fact of youj, pear tree failing to fruit after flowering profusely indicates that it neoip another tree ns a pollenator. Root pruning would not improve it. as tho tree blossoms well. A local nurseryman would probably identify the pear tree for you and plant another variety to pollenate it. J.F.G., Thames.—Garlic is one of the most troublesome weeds to eradicate, and when land ic badly infested it is almost impossible. In small areas the bulbs may bo dug up and pulled out in midsuilimer. It may bo reduced by spraying with a 5 per cent solution of carbolic acid, but the cost for a large area wofild be prohibitive. E.D.," OhaeTiwai.—The Indian seeds should be successful in your district. The tea of commerce does quite well in North Auckland. Sow the following in September in a moist, warm situation and keep shaded:— Gloriosa, clerodendron, hedychiums and arisaema. The meconopsis and rhododendron will require cooler conditions. F.W.M.—The native shrub is Pomaderris elliptica (kumarahou). It will grow quito well in a small garden. Small plants 'can be transplanted now if taken up with a ball of earth. The seed of Asc'elepias curassavica can be sown in September, either out of doors or in boxes of light soil. Tho treatment is the same as for other annuals. H.Y.8., Te Puke.—Hybridising daffodils: 1. The stigma is ripe to receive the pollen when it becomes sticky. Tho time varies with the weather. 2. Yes, it is necessary to remove the anthers from the seed-parent as soon as the flowers open. 3. The plant needß /(o be covered only until tho flower withers. 4. Superpliosphato or bonedust, three parts: sulphate of potash, one part. " Interested Reader," Hunlly.—The lemon specimens are affected with a fungoid disease. Spray now with Bordeaux powder, loz. to one gallon of water. Repeat at intervals of three weeks. Tho rhododendrons appear to have been grown in uncongenial soil or soil impregnated with lime. Rhododendrons require a peaty doil to do well, and no lime or manures containing lnne < should be applied to them. 0.M.. Waimauku.*—l. The carnation leaves are affected with bacteriosis. Dust with equal parts of air-slack lime, sulphur ond eulpliato of copper finely powdered. 2. Yes. colloidal sulphur.is a good spray for carnations. 3. Yes. same as answer to No. 1. 4. ' Mauve carnations, Skirmisher and Lavender Sensation: apricot shades, Wivelsfield Apricot and Tutanekai. 5. For peach curly leaf, spray before the buds burst with Bordeaux powder, Goz. to four gallons, and after the fruit has set use Bordeaux. 4t>z. to four gallons of water. " Moth," Manurewa.—You wish to know: 1. Spray for codliu moth. 2. Strawberry tree blighted. 3. Should pentßtemons be cut back? 4 Orange lily going pale. 5. Acacia verticillata for a stock hedge. Answers: 1. Arsenate of lead, joz. to one gallon of water when two-thirds of the petals have fallen. Repeat at 10-day intervals. 2. In the absence of a specimen I cannot sa„v. 3. Yes. 4. You do not say what kind of a lily, but evidently the food supplies are exhausted. Transplant to another position and manure with welldecayed manure. 5. Acacia verticillata makes/quite a good hedge if sown where desired. It will be necessary to fence against stock while the hedge is young. Kepoi.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH19330805.2.174.64

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXX, Issue 21562, 5 August 1933, Page 8 (Supplement)

Word Count
1,303

HOTBEDS New Zealand Herald, Volume LXX, Issue 21562, 5 August 1933, Page 8 (Supplement)

HOTBEDS New Zealand Herald, Volume LXX, Issue 21562, 5 August 1933, Page 8 (Supplement)

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