EVEREST CLIMB

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXX, Issue 21482, 4 May 1933, Page 9

EVEREST CLIMB

PARTY'S PROGRESS CAMP 23,000 FEET UP A BLIZZARD RAGING LAMA AND EXPEDITION PERSONNEL BLESSED By Telegraph—PreßS Association —Copyright (Received May 3, 8.15 p.m.) LONDON, May 2 The Daily Mail's special correspondent at Gangtok, near Darjeeling, states that Mr. Hugh Ruttledso and his party of Everest climbers have reached Camp 4/ on tho North Col, 23,000 ft. up tho mountain. There, sheltered by a great ice-wall, they arc waiting for the weather to improve before beginning the increasingly precipitous climb to the summit. At present the summit is obliterated by a raging blizzard. Two higher camps will be essential beforo the climbers' roach the North Ridge, from which tho final assault will bo made on the last and most perilous 2000 ft. This distance must bo covered in one day, as it is unsheltered and it means certain death at that altitude if tho climbers should bo overcome by snows at night. Mr. Ruttledge, in a wireless message from tho base camp, via Gangtok, dated Rongbuk, Tuesday, describes the movements of the expedition since it set out on April 2. Ho refers to tho arrival in Rongbuk Valley, with its desolate scenery.

The party camped in a monastery, where the head Lama was most friendly and blessed the entire personnel of the expedition. The Lama was extremely sympathetic toward previous expeditions. "We arrived at the base camp on Easter Monday," says Mr. Ruttledgo. "Everest is only 12 miles away. All the members of the expedition are in the best of spirits. "The weather, except for a few days, has been better than that experienced by previous expeditions, although we are travelling earlier in the year. "We are now beside a frozen lake and the neighbourhood is devoid of life except a hermit, who exists in the solitude on a moraine behind the camp. He has been here two years and intends to stay for the rest of his life. "The memorial cairn built in 1924 in memory of three previous expeditions now is in ruins, but we managed to piece together part of the inscription. Our personnel now is busy sorting rations, overhauling tent 3 and tending the wireless apparatus. The fourth Mount Everest Expedition, led by Mr. Hugh lluttledge, hopes to reach the summit before the monsoon and be back in England by August. There are 14 adventurers, but not all of them expect, even with the best of luck, weather and health, to set foot on the crown *of the world. What will probably take place, providing all goes well, will be for the mountain to be scaled to a height of 27,000 ft. or perhaps 28,000 ft. Iben a selected number will press on further still. It may remain for only one man to reach the summit. Following is the personnel of the party: Mr. Hugh Ruttledge, 47 years of age, is experienced in dealing with the sensitive Tibetans. He has made many expeditions to the Himalayas and reached great .heights. Mr. F. S. Smythe, who fed the expedition a year or so ago to the top of Mount Kamet, the highest peak yet reached by man. Mr. T. A. Brocklebank, famous as the stroke of the victorious Cambridge eight for three successive years. He is an Alpine climber of distinction. Major Boustead, "a climber who, in the hot climate of the Sudan, has been in command of the Sudan Camel Corps. Mr. C. G. Crawford, who knows the Himalayas, having been a member of the 1922 expedition. Mr. Wyn Harris, who has made noted ascents of the Alps and Mount Kenya. Mr. J. Longland, well known in the North of England as an intrepid climber of the Cumberland mountains.

Captain Noel Odell, the geologist, was a member of the 1924 expedition. He expressed his belief afterwards that Mnllory and Irvine, who were lost, had probably reached the summit. He judged that from the position in which they were last seen. Mr. E. 0. Shebbeare, also a member of the 1924 expedition. Mr. E. TO. Shipton, a member of the Mount Kamet expedition. Captain E. St. J. Birnie, a noted polo player, who has great knowledge of Himalayan dialects and is experienced on such'expeditions as transport officer. r Dr. Bavmond C. Greene, who was medical officer to the Kamet expedition. Dr. W. W. McLean, an active member of the Alpine Club. Mr. L. B. Wager, who was -i member of the British Arctic. Air Boute Expedition and was awarded the Polar Medal.

SUCCESS OF FLIERS SERIES OF PHOTOGRAPHS AWE-INSPIRING SUMMIT LONDON, April Q2 Everest stands high among the mountains, but higher yet in the records of British adventure, says a leading article in the Times, which appears in conjunction with three pages of photographs taken on the first flight. The pictures include a stupendous view of the awe-inspiring summit from the north-west, with the knife-like ridge of a majestic range of peaks in tho background. Another shows tho snowplumed peak towering above tho surrounding giants. A third picture gives tho north-east face of tho glacier where former land expeditions camped, and a fourth depicts a view looking down upon tho crest with its drifting snow plume, and showing the "climbers' way,", where Irvine and Mai lory were last seen in 1924. The article emphasises that students of the photographs arc able to share the almost incommunicable impression awaiting the aviators, and ponder on tho courago and resolution required to combine in ono operation tho approach to an altitude record and an observation flight over tho most treacherous mountain range in tho world. It only whetted tho appetite for the second (light, which, with tho Kanchcnjunga pictures, will enable mapmakers to show the contour of tho Himalayas for 100 miles. Tho expedition achieved a perfect accomplishment in the photographs which inscribe an epitaph to the selfless triumphs of Irvine and Mallory, who may, unknown to the world, have even reached the crest.