LONDON FASHION PARADES

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXX, Issue 21478, 29 April 1933, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION PARADES

THE COMMERCIAL ASPECT IMPORTANCE OF DETAILS [special to n.z. herald —copyright] LONDON, March 24 Parades of new fashions continue to occupy the attention of those who cater for the world of dress. With the firsft days of glorious spring sunshine I find the average woman is just as anxious as the experts to know what will be worn during the coming months, for sunshine, particularly in spring, has a way of showing up the " tired " spots of a well-worn suit or dress, and the longing for " a change " and " something new " are only two of the fevers associated with spring. In days of depression the effect of woman's fashions on industry is so important that even our most critical male friends have ceased to dismiiss a fashion parade as feminine foolishness, while who understand the commercial aspect of clothes are imploring the designers to change fashions more often in order to stimulate the many branches of trade affected by women's interests Personally I consider this season's modes extraordinarily clever. There is no sudden change to make last year's frocks impossible, but so many subtle touches which one immediately recoj nises as the 1933 hallmark. Details are most important, either the choice cf materials, the position of fullness on a' sleeve, the length of a coat, combination of colours and, above all, the neckline. I have mentioned materials at length in a previous letter, and can only add at the moment that the new cire and lacquered materials are ing in every collection as novelties, bub that I think we shall still find dull crepes, soft satins and chiffons will bo as much worn as ever.

The craze for the cotton evening dres» seems to be exhausted, except for organdie and white spot-muslin, hut the cottons, ginghams, plaids and checks have been relegated to their proper sphere, and given a new importance for blouses, tunics, detachable coat linings, hats and accessories. White spot-muslin or cire organdie are still shown by the best designers for youthful evening gowns. These are given a sophisticated touch by moulding to the figure to below the knees, with five crisp graduated flounces on the fullness that flows round the feet. Sometimes a sash of the muslin is tied round the normal waist, with a large butterfly bow at the waist. Colour Combinations Colours and colour combinations are very important this year, because after tho riot of brilliant blues and greens of last spring every dressmaker has turned to beige, stone colour and grey as the fashionable colourings for tailored and out-door clothes, with many shades of palo egg-shell and turquoise and powder blues for both day aud evening clothes. There is less dark brown, except as trimmings or for junipers with light suits, but much navy-blue and, of course, the usual quantity of smart black. Beige and stone-coloured Kasha suits and coats have touches of dark brown that are most effective. One seen recently consisted of a dress and • fulllength coat in soft beigo woollen. Tho dress was mado with a shaped piece across tho bodico and hips that suggested pockets, and was belted at the normal waistline. Tho new neckline fastened at the throat with a turn-over collar and tie of the material. Tho tie was faced with brown corduroy velvet, and on each end was an open-work embroidered initial that showed the'brown velvet below, and similar touches of velvet were on the sleeves. The long, looso coat was collarless, but had wido rovers of brown corduroy velvet. A greeny-grey tweed jacket suit had a brown crepe short-sleeved jumper that reached tho hips, and tied high in tho neck with a soft scarf bow. A small hat with close brim of plaited tweed and brown gloves and shoes gave this simplo ensemble great distinction. Jerkin-liko jackets and bodices are also featured in nearly every collection. These consist of semi-fitting bodices or jackets that just reach tho hip bone, and are usually tied high in thg throat and fastened with buttons all down tho front, or at the side from tho shoulder to tho bottom of tho jacket. Slim Lines in Skirts The general effect of all daytime skirts is extremely slim. Designer's like Molyneux, of London and Paris, are making these skirts just a. little longer, and they are extremely becoming, being about l'lin. from tho ground? Evening skirts are quite long, often touching tho ground and slightly trained. Tho newest lino for theso is also slim with a very gradual fullness round tho feet. O(flier styles in chiffon and tulle arc flounced and niched half way up the skirt, with tho flounces repeated on tho arms or shoulders. Ono such stylo in black tulle had five graduated ruches on tho skirt, and deep frills fastened just ahovo the elbow and hanging nearly to tho wrist, ruched in tho samo fashion as tho skirt. These sleeves were detachable with elastic in the top to keep them in place. Another lovely black dress for less formal occasions consisted of a long sHm skirt and bodico front of black crepe, with yoke, sleeves and tho entire back to tho waist of fine transparent black lace. A thin layer of flesh chiffon would probably appeal to many who do not liko so much transparency, without , spoiling tho dainty effect.