HOME-MADE LEATHER

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21276, 1 September 1932, Page 18

HOME-MADE LEATHER

BY TANNER

TANNING ON THE FARM UTILISING ODD SKINS

There are a number of reasons why it is hardly practical for a farmer to tan his own sole leather. But there is no reason why, with the exercise of a little caro and patience, he should not turn an odd hide or two into a decent piece of leather, which would find many uses on the farm in the form of laces and straps and for mending harness and other gear. The first operation in any tanning process is to soften and cleanse the skin and bring it back as near as possible to the soft andMlaccid condition it was in when taken from the carcase of the beast. If there is much blood and dirt on the skin it should be soaked in water for a few hours and then washed and thrown back into clean water overnight. Next day as much of the fat and adhering flesh as possible should be scraped away with a blant knife as this would interfere with the penetration of the tanning materials. Removing the Hair The next step is the removal of the hair. Take 15 to 20 gallons of water for each hide. (Hides up to about 351b. in weight and not too thick are most suitable for the purpose wo have in view. If over about 151b. they should bo split down the line of the backbone so as to make them easier to handle). Add 51b. of slaked or hydrated lime (not carbonate of lime) and stir up well and throw the hides in, hair side up. They will have to remain in for about two weeks, but they should be taken out and the lime liquor well plunged up at least once a day. At the end of this time the hair should come off easily if the hide is scraped with a blunt knife. If the hair is still tight a little more lime must be added and the skins left a few days longer. This liming process, as well as removing the hair, also splits up the fibres of the skin and gives a softer and more pliable piece of leather. The lime has finished its job now and we must get rid of it. Wash the skin well in water and then dissolve about £lb. of boric acid in hot water and then dilute it to 10-15 gallons with cold water. Work the skin about in this for a while, then leave it in the solution overnight. Next day it is ready for tanning. Wooden barrels or tubs should be used. If the same tub is used for tanning as for the liming it should be thoroughly cleaned. The Tanning Process You may tan with alum and salt, or watUe bark, or an excellent leather may be made by combining the two methods. Here is an example. Dissolve 41b. of alum and 21b. of salt in hot water and dilute to 15 gallons. When this is practically cold enter the skins, stirring them about for a time. Repeat the stirring at intervals for two days. If no wattle bark is available you will have to be content with just an alum tannage, and in this case a somewhat stronger solution should be used. Instead of 41b. of alum and 21b. of salt, take 51b. of alum, 101b. of salt and of bicarbonate of soda. (The soda should be dissolved in cold water and added slowly to the alum and salt solution). Leave the skins in this solution about a week then hang up to dry, and finish as will be described for the combination tanned leather. If wattle bark is procurable take 40 to 501b. of the air-dried bark, cut into one inch pieces bruised up with the back of the tomahawk. Put into a clean barrel with a tap or plug near the bottom and cover with 12 gallons of hot water allowing it to stand for two days. After the skins have been in the altim and 'salt two days throw out five gallons of the liquor and add five gallons of the bark liquor, drawn from the bottom of the barrel. Stir the skins about at intervals for two days, then throw out three gallons of the liquor, replacing with three gallons more of bark liquor. Leave the skins in this another two days, stirring occasionally, then throw out another three gallons, replacing it with the remainder of the bark liquor and leave the skins in about another week. Thay will not be coloured right through in this time, but it is better to leave a white strip in the centre when the skins have had a pretannage with alum. Drying and Oiling

Let the skins drain for a time, then oil on the grain side with neatsfoot oil or a light mineral oil (light motor or separator oil would do), or a mixture of equal pails neatsfoot and mineral oil. Give a liberal coat and hang the skin up to dry (not in the sun). When the skins are about three parts dry 'they should be taken down. Any parts which appear too dry should be damped with water. Then cover them with a wot sack over night, ft skins have only been alumtanned omit the first oiling. For each fair-sized skin melt jib. tallow and pour into it a pint of neatsfoot oil. Rub this well into the skin on both sides and hang it up again. It should be worked and twisted about while drying to make the oil go in. It is a good idea to tack the skin on to a wall when it is about half dry and give it another coat of oil on the, grain side. When the skin is dry it should be ready for use. If ifcis too stiff give it some more oil and twist and beat it until it becomes soft.